MPX problems,

ricardoa1

Registered User
Anyone have issues mounting their MPX onto the intake manifold.The monting holes dont line up to the holes on the intake manifold.
 
Mine was a little tricky to get them lined up. I placed the big front one first then the passenger side, then the driver side bolt. It was a tight bolt pattern but I got mine to go.
 
My friend Dan helped me with mine, it was a huge pain in the ~~~..:mad:.but I wouldn't expect anything else from MP.....I called Charles the day we where doing the install and he said "if you own a SC you should already know how to do it its easy" ...:rolleyes:
 
The rears are teh main problem the whole assy has to move alot. From the top I see less then half of the threaded hole on the intake. I tried prying the whole ~~~ with a really big bar but I can only get a little more then half of the hole to line up.
I hate this already hooked up all of the vacs, includig the EGR. I did not have this problem with the MPIII mainly because it was a stock M90 at one point.
I even wanted to use the factory bolt but I guess you have to use the supplied hex bolts cause they are longer.

Not fun at all :mad:
 
I managed to get it on with an incredible amount of force. Then the front became the an issue once I got the rears to go. I thought I was going to break the TB from the amount of force. But it on there now. Those having problems should voice out their problems. If I ever break down on a road trip taking off the blower will not longer be a simple task. I will have to carry a craw bar with me all the time if I ever want to get the blower back on once I release the tension between all the bolts. Charles needs to double check his tooling since something is not lining up right.
 
I managed to get it on with an incredible amount of force. Then the front became the an issue once I got the rears to go. I thought I was going to break the TB from the amount of force. But it on there now. Those having problems should voice out their problems. If I ever break down on a road trip taking off the blower will not longer be a simple task. I will have to carry a craw bar with me all the time if I ever want to get the blower back on once I release the tension between all the bolts. Charles needs to double check his tooling since something is not lining up right.

Are you using the M112 kit? If so I can say that the manifold is not 100% true. I had issues getting the original kit to bolt down. I have installed several MPX's and don't normally have any issues but it could be that the MPX is on the edge of tolerance and combining that with your manifold could result in issues. Make sure that you are not putting stress on the case when you bolt it down. You don't want to have another blower failure...
 
Thats why I wanted to know if others are having issues. And it seems some are, I had no problems with the MPIII when the nose slipped.
But I got it on. The rears gave me the most trouble and the modifications fot the manifold was only in the front, So we cannot blame my manifold too much.
I bolted down the rears first so i hope I dont have any warpage.
 
Have you checked the center bolt holes squareness. Compaired to the front
of the blowers machined surface. That the snout bolts to.

Or if the snouts shaft is 90 degrees to a staight line across the center of
the two middle blower bolts.. measure with machinest square.

A machinest can tell you in about 5 minutes if the three boltholes are square
to centerline. If you clamp the blower case down on a mill table, And the
mill has didgital rearout. It would not take but a few minutes . To bore
the bolthole square to the blowers true center line.

If the hole need to be bored, offset farther or a larger diameter ,than you like.
The holes can be reamed, and a aluminum rod,with a .002 interfearance fit you can then pressed in the reamed holes. Then new blank holes can be drilled in the exact location you need.

Randy
 
Thats why I wanted to know if others are having issues. And it seems some are, I had no problems with the MPIII when the nose slipped.
But I got it on. The rears gave me the most trouble and the modifications fot the manifold was only in the front, So we cannot blame my manifold too much.
I bolted down the rears first so i hope I dont have any warpage.

Ricardo,

I have no faith in the machining quality of the factory intake manifold. I believe there are sufficient variances in the manifold itself to cause issues with any blower swap. when I took the 90 blower and put it on my 93, the original blower just fit perfect. The blower from the 90 was a pain. Same for putting the 93 blower on the 90.

normally I wouldn't be too concerned about forcing the blower to fit. But after your issue and Ken's with clearance possibly due to housing twist in the blower... I'd want to make sure i'm not binding things too much when bolting it down, even if that means clearancing the blower housing a bit with a round file or something.
 
I managed to get it on with an incredible amount of force. Then the front became the an issue once I got the rears to go. I thought I was going to break the TB from the amount of force. But it on there now. Those having problems should voice out their problems. If I ever break down on a road trip taking off the blower will not longer be a simple task. I will have to carry a craw bar with me all the time if I ever want to get the blower back on once I release the tension between all the bolts. Charles needs to double check his tooling since something is not lining up right.

Take the blower off and drill the holes in the rear out a few sizes. If you force it you are going to regret it later. If the holes in the manifold are a little wider or narrower and you drill out both holes in the rear of the blower case it should self center the blower. Forcing anything is a bad idea. Mike is probably right. With the longer rotors we are probably experencing some twisting in the case and starting out with any kind of deformity of the case by forcing it cant be good. I also wondering if our end clearances shouldnt be a little more to allow for that.

Ken

Ken
 
Pushing the blower sideways to make them line up was the biggest issue, It seems that the case is bigger "wider" and touching the fuel lines the bar was used to line up the bosses with the holes on the sc. Once lined up bolting down was not a big problems.

I did not use any excessive force on the bolts to tighten them down. I used a small allen wrench on the back ones and a regular ratchet on the big ones. I already ran the car and the blower was nice and quiet, No rattle of anykind like the old set up had.

As much I like to take all of your advice. I dont see myself taking it off again "Knock on Wood"
 
Pushing the blower sideways to make them line up was the biggest issue, It seems that the case is bigger "wider" and touching the fuel lines the bar was used to line up the bosses with the holes on the sc. Once lined up bolting down was not a big problems.

I did not use any excessive force on the bolts to tighten them down. I used a small allen wrench on the back ones and a regular ratchet on the big ones. I already ran the car and the blower was nice and quiet, No rattle of anykind like the old set up had.

As much I like to take all of your advice. I dont see myself taking it off again "Knock on Wood"

So is the butt dyno showing more HP and torque???? My blower has always sounded a little rattley. I wonder if a spring loaded coupler would quite it down??

Ken

Ken
 
No road testing yet. But I noticed the boost builds like crazy when I rev the car. Even the snow system activates, I dont remember the snow system being triggered that early by just reving the car. I went with the solid coupler again this time around. It seems to operate very smooth.
I porting hint for those doing it at home, use machining oil or at least any kind of oil, I had a hard time keeping the bits from getting clogged with aluminum, until my neighbor told me to use some oil on it, It worked great and the bits stayed nice and clean, too bad I was almost done by the time I learned this trick.
Lets use smileys for SC inlet ports

Stock :confused:
S-port, MPI :eek:
MPX :)
Mine :D
 
No road testing yet. But I noticed the boost builds like crazy when I rev the car. Even the snow system activates, I dont remember the snow system being triggered that early by just reving the car. I went with the solid coupler again this time around. It seems to operate very smooth.
I porting hint for those doing it at home, use machining oil or at least any kind of oil, I had a hard time keeping the bits from getting clogged with aluminum, until my neighbor told me to use some oil on it, It worked great and the bits stayed nice and clean, too bad I was almost done by the time I learned this trick.
Lets use smileys for SC inlet ports

Stock :confused:
S-port, MPI :eek:
MPX :)
Mine :D

Im sure that sooner or later you will hit the dyno. It would be intresting to see if there is a change from your previous numbers. I havent even touched my car. I had a landslide of project for other people to do. Next week I will be looking at mine

Ken
 
I set mine on the manifold and looked at the holes and knew it was going to be tight, but possible. Put the front bolt on loosely and next did the passenger side again with about 3 or 4 turns and finally the drivers side with it loose and checked everything for placement before tightening it down.

No crowbar was needed, but it was tight. My suggestion would be to those that haven't installed their MPX yet to loose fit it then get the bolts in there without tightening anything down, not even snug tight.

If this was the worst or hardest install done on my SC I would be very happy.
 
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