Power Window Repair How-To.............

SCTbird

Registered User
Well since this seems to be one of the most common issues I am going to do a write up on how to repair the power window motor in our cars. Mine has the classic signs of the cam gears being worn out. So I went out and bought new cam gears and some grease ($10 w/tax). I also bought a new complete repair kit which includes the cam gears, the big plastic cogged gear, and some grease ($30 w/tax) just incase the teeth are worn out. I really hate making mutlitple trips which is why I bought everything for worse case. I will report back soon! Wish me luck, LOL!!!!!
 
You can buy the plastic pieces that go in there and eventually they will wear out. I put three 7/16: nuts in mine and they will never wear out, just got to be careful not to get my fingers caught in there while letting the windows up.:D
 
There are a couple write-ups around already. But feel free to make another.
I saw the other writeups and there were a million and one questions due to the writeup being written in stereo instructions. Mine will easier than a Haynes manual with pics. I have written several writeups in the past for other vehicles "dumbed down" for even the novice guy that doesn't even know the difference between a shock or a strut.
 
You can buy the plastic pieces that go in there and eventually they will wear out. I put three 7/16: nuts in mine and they will never wear out, just got to be careful not to get my fingers caught in there while letting the windows up.:D

The reason you buy the plastic ones and not use metal is because they are inside another plastic cogged gear. Those metal ones are going to wear out the inside of that cog and then you will be buying the actual kit for $30. You figure you should only have to do this once until the motor burns out. LOL!!!!
 
The hardest part of the whole job is digging out all the small chunks of plastic out of the main cog.....:p
 
Any place in canada to get the plastic parts, or just hit up ford parts or like a napa. If so what am I asking for to keep it simple for the counter person?
 
You are asking for the power window motor cogs. Napa should have it and Ford will for sure. Just make sure you get the package with the 3 round cogs. They make a kits for 3x the price and the only thing extra you get is grease.
 
i was cheap when i did mine, i used some hardwood, cut some small triangles, sanded them a little-grease them up a bit, installed them, worked out great - i've done this with a few of cars, and there still holding up just fine
 
Still waiting for that write up...

I'm having the same problems with both windows. I've removed the door trim and speaker from the passenger side. But I don't know what to do next to remove the motor. I looked at a lot of Threads about this problem and most just say... no problem just replace the plastic cogs and your done... easy.
But no one says how to get the motor out of the door, or how to put it back. The books I have say to drill a hole in the door...but don't say where to drill the hole. I'm I missing some thing ?

I just don't want to proceed without knowing what screws/bolts to remove, and what about the tension spring ? I don't want that thing ripping my fingers off. Any clues...thanx in advance.

Mark. '89 SC
 
Pull the door speaker off. Disconnect the motor harness connector near the opening. Have the window all the way up. there are three bolts (8mm I believe) in a triangle pattern about center of the door. If you reach back through the speaker hole with your hand you'll touch the motor. Back out the 3 bolts and pull on the motor to release it from the gears. (the window won't move)

Pull the motor out.

Lately I've just been replacing the motors when this happens as after replacing the nubs, I've found the motor is tired as well. I think the last motor I got was under $40.

I posted a walk through of doing this in members area FAQ forum.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47986
 
The hole to drill out is probably for the removal of the regulator unit....

There are three bolts and a wire connector that need to be removed to pull the window motor....
 
Just curious.....My drivers side window has very jerky movement especially going up;sometimes I have to help it by rocking and lifting the window at the same time..a couple of times it has even stopped and wont move again for 30 seconds or so...What's up with this problem,bad window felts,bad motor,bad regulator,or all of the above?
 
P/S Window

I guess i'll add to here that my P/Side window falls down by bumps and even heavy winds makes it fall down little by little??

Tom
 
I can't imagine having to replace the regulator unless it rusts apart or you have an accident. It's stamped steel with steel gear teeth. The motor provides the resistance to moving up and down. (with the motor out you can push and pull the glass up and down)

If the glass will drop, my guess is the motor will slip when lifting the window too?

Any slips mean either the motor isn't tight in it's spot and the drive gear is slipping on the regulator or the motor coupling inside is breaking up, sometimes holding, other times not.
 
Let me Jump in here. And ask. My driver side seems to come down crooked near the end and slows down alot and sometimes JAm, the motors sounds strained when this happens. What do I need to fix, bend or replace to keep the glass straight on the track so it does not do this.
 
Let me Jump in here. And ask. My driver side seems to come down crooked near the end and slows down alot and sometimes JAm, the motors sounds strained when this happens. What do I need to fix, bend or replace to keep the glass straight on the track so it does not do this.

that may be Three things. #1 the guide track near the door latch may have broken loose from it's spot weld. This can cause the window to move around as it's pulled down, possibly giving enough room for it to bind.

It could also be the felt has completely worn off the guide track causing the glass to bind on one side as it's pulled down.

And finally, the glass is pulled down at two points. One left and one right. If one of the points is no longer holding the glass when pulling down, the other side may be pulling the glass so that it binds.
 
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