Code 998 and engine running like poop...

stigs

Registered User
Hi all ---
Well, I'm about two weeks into trying to get this car smoothed out after dropping a new engine in...here is the latest...(BTW is is a '95 SC)

I had been getting an intermittent code 214 on the KOEO test - I've checked the cables and plugs, which are brand new and all seems fine.

The car is running - but not well. Smells like it is running rich - seems to be missing a cylinder or two, but nothing definite - it sure isn't running strong and smooth.

On the KOER test, I get a code 998 - no ID code or anything - just a 998.

I had hoped that by changing the DIS I could maybe fix both problems - not to be. I put a brand new DIS in and while I haven't seen a 214 since, I still have the 998 on the KOER.

Do I need a new EEC? Any other ideas? Thanks all!!

Cheers!
 
call the ford dealership and talk to there service department. they should be able to tell you what a code 998 is.
 
sorry...

Sorry, I should have written than I know what the codes mean - 998 is major fault and running in "get home" mode -

The 214 was cylinder ID failure

Cheers!
 
998 code

Reading my code booklet your 998 code is "operating in failure mode" The 214 is cylinder identification CID a signal generated by the crank sensor to sync the ignition coils. I'm not the expert here just wondering even though you say a new as in rebuilt? or a used engine swap? if you have any issues with the harmonic balancer wobbling or maybe the timing ring on the back side loose just something that is in and out of the range of the sensor causing your intermittent problem. Is the sensor tight? wiring harness ok? Just my toughts Good luck
 
A little googling gives the following:

"Fault in ECT/ACT/MAF/TPR circuit"

Note that this is doesn't claim to be for the mn-12, but it seems to come from a list with codes that match the tbird ones very well.

So, that would lead me to suspect some serious wiring issue with the ECT (coolant temp sensor - the 2 wire one), ACT (air charge temp), MAF (air flow sensor) or the TPR. I'm guessing TPR is a typo of TPS which is the throttle position sensor. Something that all these sensors share is a +5V reference, so that would be a good place to start. The 5Vref comes from the EEC, but I would make double and triple sure that all the wiring is OK before swapping computers. AFAIK, the 5Vref is not prone to failure without something (wiring short) killing it.

To test the Vref, get a voltmeter and measure from either side of the ECT or ACT to ground. One side should read very close to +5.00 volts; ignore the other side.

Having a problem in that circuit will cause the car to run like crap; it doesn't know how what temperature the engine is, it doesn't now much air is entering the engine and it also doesn't know the position of the throttle. That is enough to really screw things up!

Vince
 
Thanks, all...

I appreciate all the help, all. Just so everyone knows, the only code I have now is the 998 - I have had a 118 (ECT out of range) since the beginning (well before the 998s started) and still do, but I didn't mention it because I didn't think it would cause the major issues.

I'll take a look at the 5 Volt refs! Great tip.

I'll take any other hints if anyone has any - thanks all!!!

Cheers!
 
5 Volt Reference is good...

Hi all - again, thanks for all the help but I need a few more ideas...

I checked the 5 volt reference with my digital multimeter - 5.00 V exactly ---

So here is what I've done so far...(not in this order)

-Rebuilt ECU
-New DIS
-Check the ground at various parts around the block - all have continuity with the neg battery cable
-No wobble in harmonic balancer
-Checked 5V reference
-Wiggle Tested every harness I could find

Should I start replacing ACT, ECT, CPS, Crank, MAF?

I'm really out of ideas and quite frustrated, so any other thoughts would be much appreciated!
 
fturner,
I replaced the ECT sensor tonight, cleared KAM and continuous, and car still went into failure mode - codes 998 + 118 on KOER and only code 118 on KOEO.

I guess my next step is replacing the Cam Posit Sensor - I know this is an oddball problem folks, but I truly love this car but she's testing my patience! Thanks!

Cheers!
 
When you have a code 998, that simply means that you can not run any Key On Engine running tests until your Key On Engine Off tests are resolved. Whatever your other codes are, they must need to be resolved for any other test to be accurate.

Record all codes displayed. NOTE: Engine running service code 98/998 indicates vehicle is in Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) and DID NOT PASS the Key ON Engine OFF (KOEO) on demand/continuous memory self test. Engine running self test cannot be performed while in FMEM. Rerun KOEO self test and correct all fault codes. See: Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self Test
 
Never heard that before

Mike, thanks for the words. I've done some searching on this forum about getting rid of the 118 - I put in a new ECT last night with no luck on clearing the code. I don't see any fraying in that small wire that comes from the bundle to the sensor, and the boot going over the sensor also looks solid.

Does anyone know how I can check the continuity of that lead for the sensor? Or does anyone know any other tricks for clearing the 118?

Again, thanks fellas!

-Stigs
 
You could check the input at the EEC connector. Pin 7, light green with yellow stripe wire. If you put a tap on that, you can check the voltage. That code means that the sensor voltage is too high. Voltage at key on should be between .3 and 3.7 volts. Check that at the sensor, and you can check it at the EEC. That should allow you to identify if there is an issue with the wire running between the two.

You'll need a digital Multi-meter to test that.
 
I have seen bad crank sensors do weird things to Fords. What year is your SC? I have only diagnosed OBD-II cars, and I can't find it in my Ford service book, but it's somewhere else to look.
 
Mike, thanks for the words. I've done some searching on this forum about getting rid of the 118 - I put in a new ECT last night with no luck on clearing the code. I don't see any fraying in that small wire that comes from the bundle to the sensor, and the boot going over the sensor also looks solid.

Does anyone know how I can check the continuity of that lead for the sensor? Or does anyone know any other tricks for clearing the 118?

Again, thanks fellas!

-Stigs

First of all you are looking at the temp sender and not the ECT sensor. The ECT sensor is on the passenger side of the motor next to the fuel rail connections.

My guess would be that upon re-installation of the motor you pinched a harness somewhere which has resulted in grounded out and/or shorted wires. I'd start looking at the harnesses for problems.
 
Success (for now), thanks everyone!!

Hi all,
Well, after pulling my head out and realizing that I had not yet replaced the ECT and only the temp sender, I now have a car that runs without a 998 code!

No now I have a 214 code to deal with - and it is current as I cleared the codes and it came back. As I just put a fresh DIS on the car, I will replace the cam sensor next - the car isn't running real smoothly either, and running a bit warm steady at about 220 deg F, so I hope the cam sensor is causing all the above symptoms...

Thanks again, all. Couldn't have done it without you.

Cheers,
Stigs
 
Check your harness to the cam sensor, make sure nothing is pinched, or warn through. Rough running may be due to fuel fouled plugs if you were having misfires or issues with running before.
 
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