A/C Deleted revisited

R

Roadhawg

Registered User
My original A/C delete I used a stock SC tensioner and re-clocked it. This method does not provide enough tension and causes belt squeal on start up. I have since used a tensioner from a 1995 NA V6 Mustang . When installing a NA V6 tensioner one of locater pins rides in the stock SC mounting point, the other locating pin rides on the edge of the mounting bracket. The 1995 NA V6 Mustang tensioner is bolted to the bracket via a bolt with a T55 head. Also as a side note the pulley bolt on the NA V6 tensioner is left handed thread. I had to use two 5/8 stainless steel washers between the tensioner and the pulley to get proper clearance on the back edge of the pulley.

Items used:
NA V6 Mustang/Tbird tensioner
NAPA 25-08560 8 rib belt
Dayco 89053 8 rib pulley


AC-Delete1.jpg


Note that the tensioner rides in the middle of the range.
AC-Delete2.jpg
 
Clearance to the alternator looks kinda close looking at the pictures, or maybe my eyes are fooling me. Maybe just the angle or something. What is the actual clearance between the two?
Looks good though.


S
 
a 96 3.8 na tbird pulley will do the same thing, without having to use spacers and play McGuiver. pick a spot, drill new holes for the locating pins and yah done. I have done the cut pins off and clock it thing, and wont be doing it again , bc i still never payed my $1500 hospital billllllllll eeehhh
 
Sweet writeup. I've been starting to get some belt squeel lately. Got a part number for the belt ya used?

Miller,
Got any shots of the one from the 96 NA bird?
 
ahh, the way AC delete should be done. I'll be getting one of those tensioners this week and add the install to my post that keeps popping up.
 
cutting the stop on the stock tensioner and clockign it back works just fine. just get a big pair of channel locks and clock the srping part more and hold while u thighten. at this point the pulley should be pressed tight against the thermostat neck. just take the front of the tensioner off liek you would to put MP springs in and cut the stop, that way it cant unwind real fast on yah.
 
Miller said:
cutting the stop on the stock tensioner and clockign it back works just fine. just get a big pair of channel locks and clock the srping part more and hold while u thighten. at this point the pulley should be pressed tight against the thermostat neck. just take the front of the tensioner off liek you would to put MP springs in and cut the stop, that way it cant unwind real fast on yah.
Click to expand...

Been there done that and it'll slip eventually, plus the tension is never that great, get the na tensioner and NEVER worry about it slipping ever again.
 
Miller said:
Picture048.jpg

Picture047-2.jpg



theres the NA tbird tendsioner
Click to expand...

That looks like the stock sc tensioner to me. On the na bird tensioner you can't use the stock sc tensioner bolt like you show in the pic because it's too long and won't tighten up, you have to use the t55 torx head bolt that comes with the na tensioner because they're not as thick as the sc tensioner plus where is the tab/slot in the tensioner that shows how much tension is on it. The na bird tensioner looks EXACTLY like the mustang one Roadhawg shows in the 1st pic.

Here's my na t-bird tensioner pics
 

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Ok, it is silver. I was looking at them on Rockauto.com and just wanted to make sure I was looking at the right thing.

If anyone has part numbers of the belts they used or if they know how long a belt I should used while running the underdrive pullies please let me know.
 
uhmmm.. wrong? Me and FKR both use 1996 N/A 3.8l tbird pulleys, and theres is just like mine. I went and bought it. I used the stock bolt that was on the other tensioner so i dont know whatchu tawkin bout poncho. maybe they gave you the wrong part when you got yours.

mine was silver till it got the spray paint treatment.
 
Miller said:
uhmmm.. wrong? Me and FKR both use 1996 N/A 3.8l tbird pulleys, and theres is just like mine. I went and bought it. I used the stock bolt that was on the other tensioner so i dont know whatchu tawkin bout poncho. maybe they gave you the wrong part when you got yours.

mine was silver till it got the spray paint treatment.
Click to expand...

Wrong part? I pulled it off the car myself at the junkyard bro..

Some parts counter dude didn't get mine for me....
 
just went over to the garage and grabbed the part number.. 38127.. comes up as a 1999 3.8l stang .. who knew.

sorry Nman u were correctamundo
 
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Well I'm fairly sure the NA V6 Mustang and Tbird tensioners are one in the same.
In the original form, the tensioner was silver, but I gave it a coat of Satin black.

The 8 rib belt is a NAPA 25-08560

mpx2.JPG
 
Miller said:
just went over to the garage and grabbed the part number.. 38127.. comes up as a 1999 3.8l stang .. who knew.

sorry Nman u were correctamundo
Click to expand...

Hey man I apologized too, I looked them up at Rockauto and I see that the replacement pulleys look like yours, without being painted you can see the tension slot at the top, sure look a little different from the oem piece but it does the same thing, take care....Mitchell
 
heres another question. Has anyone used the NA tensioner with underive pulleys? The NA tensioner brings the idler pulley much closer to the water pump pulley, and the underdrive water pump pulley is much bigger. I am going to order a NA tensioner today so I guess I'll find out. Does the NA tensioner from Ford come with the T55 bolt or do you need to order seperate?
 
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