Engine Temp Question

Raymondo

Registered User
I have a '95 SC with fresh coolant, 180 degree failsafe thermostat, no leaks, solid hoses, etc. but when operating it runs a tad hot, or at least from my perspective. The gauge registers on the M or NORM. Any suggestions or clarifications would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
R
 
Clean the connection at the sending unit and see what happends then.
Did you get all the air out of the system?
Fans turning on?
 
I have a '95 SC with fresh coolant, 180 degree failsafe thermostat, no leaks, solid hoses, etc. but when operating it runs a tad hot, or at least from my perspective. The gauge registers on the M or NORM. Any suggestions or clarifications would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
R

Do you have a chip and have the fan on temps lowered with it? If not, either get a chip or go back to the stock 195 tstat. These cars will run hotter and possibly over heat with a 180 and stock fan settings.

Frit
 
I will clean the connection and see what happens. I do not have a chip in it, and I did get all the air out of it, I think. I opened the bleeder and made sure I got coolant seepage. And the fan is coming on. When it does the temp cycles from the M in NORM back to the O.

Actually the car is running cooler with the 180 than it did with the 195!
 
I have a '95 SC with fresh coolant, 180 degree failsafe thermostat, no leaks, solid hoses, etc. but when operating it runs a tad hot, or at least from my perspective. The gauge registers on the M or NORM. Any suggestions or clarifications would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
R

When it runs where? Highway? In traffic? A/C on? I know the M seems high on the gauge but depending on the calibration that could mean anything. I know cars that run on M and when tested with a gauge showed the engine running at 215°. That's not really hot for a stock engine with the A/C runnning in the Memphis summer.

Ira
 
Hi Ira. Just around in traffic. I have not had it out on the highway. The data I posted is without the AC. When the AC is on it runs a bit cooler. I just want to cover all my bases and make sure things are ok.
 
This is a reply I wrote to a post a while ago but it is relavent.

Your puller fan (engine side) should kick on at 220 degrees which is right about on the right side of M on the temp gauge. The pusher fan should only come on if the puller fan doesn't cool the coolant down because it's really a backup fan just for that reason. The pusher fan comes on at about 228 degrees so if yours is not coming on thats a good thing. There is probably nothing wrong with your fans but to find out let your car idle until the gauge needle gets on the right side of M in norm and the puller fan should kick in. One way to verify your pusher fan is working is to pull the electrical connecter on the puller fan so when the coolant reaches 228 degrees the pusher kicks in but I wouldn't recommend doing that as 228 degrees is TO hot. A better way is to have someone run a EEC KOEO (key on engine off) test on your car. The test will check the operation of both fans by briefly turning both of them on for about five seconds
 
I'm pretty sure that it depends. When I data log the ECT sensor, when my temp gauge needle is at O in NORM, it's at 200.

To further add to that when my fan comes on at 192 (verified by datalogging ECT and watching the fan on flags) the needle is just below the N when it does.

Thats on my car that is.

Frit
 
I have a '95 SC with fresh coolant, 180 degree failsafe thermostat, no leaks, solid hoses, etc. but when operating it runs a tad hot, or at least from my perspective. The gauge registers on the M or NORM. Any suggestions or clarifications would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
R


You live near Memphis and never once heard about you when I was living there.
 
On my drag racer I've got an add on temp gauge with the sensor for it mounted on top of the tall vent tube on the thermostat housing. When the dash gauge is on the N the add on gauge reads 180. When the dash gauge is on the M it reads 195-200. That's what I based my statement on.
 
You live near Memphis and never once heard about you when I was living there.

Hey Pablo! Well I have been around here for a while, but kinda off and on. Was living in the area from '84 to '92, then from '95 to '99 and now since '05. I have had a couple different accounts on here over the years. One I lost after being inactive for a long time, the second I lost the password and had changed IPs resulting in a change of email address and could not recover the password, now I am working on my third account. LOL
 
This is a reply I wrote to a post a while ago but it is relavent.

Your puller fan (engine side) should kick on at 220 degrees which is right about on the right side of M on the temp gauge. The pusher fan should only come on if the puller fan doesn't cool the coolant down because it's really a backup fan just for that reason. The pusher fan comes on at about 228 degrees so if yours is not coming on thats a good thing. There is probably nothing wrong with your fans but to find out let your car idle until the gauge needle gets on the right side of M in norm and the puller fan should kick in. One way to verify your pusher fan is working is to pull the electrical connecter on the puller fan so when the coolant reaches 228 degrees the pusher kicks in but I wouldn't recommend doing that as 228 degrees is TO hot. A better way is to have someone run a EEC KOEO (key on engine off) test on your car. The test will check the operation of both fans by briefly turning both of them on for about five seconds


Pusher fan? What are you talking about? I only have one fan on my rad and it pulls. Pulls low or high depending on temp.
 
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