seatbelt light always stays on cruise control not working

mywhite89

Registered User
I have a couple problems I would like to take care of with the car. I have a seatbelt light that always stays on when the car is on. Belts are all plugged in and I've tried unbuckling and buckling back in with no luck. The retractable part works on both sides and everything is plugged in as far as I know. I'm not too much of an electrical guy, but I know enough that I could take directions. I want to know where the best place to start would be, for finding what circuit is causing the light to stay on. Is there something I may not have plugged back in on the seatbelt retractors that would cause just a light problem, or something on the driverside seatbelt buckle?

Cruise control hasn't worked since I changed my complete interior. Press the button, and nothing happens. Any suggestions for that would be great. I would assume the problem is within the dash but I plugged everything back in as far as I know. I have never seen anything around the accelerator pedal that seems to relate to cruise control. If someone has pictures of what to look for, I would appreciate the help

Chris
 
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have you check the fuses to see if that might be the problem...

It could be the CC buttons are malfuntioning.....

I think there is a switch located on the seat belt retractor located at the rear of the seat next to the center console....

Check around there and see if there is a bad connection or something....
 
Lay on the drivers floor (with a light) look up & see a plunger switch at the brake pedal.
This switch has a rubber hose connected to it now push it forward & it will zip right in to place. That will fix the cruise.
 
Lay on the drivers floor (with a light) look up & see a plunger switch at the brake pedal.
This switch has a rubber hose connected to it now push it forward & it will zip right in to place. That will fix the cruise.

Ok, I found the plunger for the cc. The plunger comes out when the brake is depressed, and is in when brake is not applied. I'm assuming you mean push the rubber hose on. The hose is connected, I'll make sure it is on all the way.

I fixed the seatbelt light. I had a couple connectors under the seat that I never plugged in. Duhhh. I have LX seats in my car and always figured the extra wiring coming from the car was for SC only!!

Chris
 
Ok, I know what you meant by push forward now. The plunger was always partially out which I assume relieves air at all times. I clipped it back in all the way. Cruise control still does not work though. Everything now looks ok with the little plunger setup, and I've taken apart the driverside inner fenderwell. The actual cruise control unit is a little rusty, but all the rubber lines are intact and seem to be fine. The rubber line that goes to the engine is fine and the little pressure valve that is between that rubber hose and the hose that connects to the inlet plenum does its job. It allows vaccum to the cruise control module but no boosted air. I don't have this vaccum plumbed wrong, do I?

The little plunger on the pedal: Other then the little valve that springs out when the brake is pressed, what physically is its function? Is it to release air? Reason I ask is because I can blow or suck on rubber line going to it and air is never released whether the brake pedal is depressed or not. I assumed this thing would release air if the brake was pressed.

Still playing with it.............
 
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Ok, I'm back on the fixing my cruise control train. I figured when I had the dash out of the car, I damaged one of the wires from the eec to the cruise control switches.
-I have good power on both wires from the switch to the connecter thats right next to the eec, so I did good replacing the dash!
-The slip rings were giving me some inconsistant resistance numbers when turning the steering wheel so I replaced them.
-I checked the dump valve and adjusted as needed, that seems to be ok.
-Checked vaccum lines, look fine, no cracks and no leaks noted.
-Checked resitance on the servo and it seemed ok, but since I had a known working unit I replaced it.
-Checked 12 volts from the cruise control "on" switch, tested ok.

So, I'm kinda getting a full understanding of how the cruise control works. I'm leading to a problem either with the wiring from the servo to the eec or an issue with the speed sensor/wiring to the eec from it. I havent looked into what the speed sensor on the tranny does besides send a speed signal to the eec specifically for cruise control, but I think thats my next victim to attack. Either one of those things mentioned, or I have a eec problem.

In case someone is interested, I'm gonna keep at this until I figure it out. I thought about deleting cruise control, but I want to know whats wrong with it first, just because I'm crazy.
 
There are four causes for the Speed control to be inoperative. The modulating valve is faulty(Servo Motor Open). The Dump Valve is faulty at the pedal. There is no vaccum source(Or leak) at the Servo. Or an open circuit for the speed control switches on the wheel. You need to locate connector C109. It is located in the area behind the passenger headlight. I know this sounds silly, but that harness runs all the way across the header panel and over to the drivers fender well to the servo. It is a blck connector with 6-pins. Disconnect it and measure the resistance of the Orange/Yellow wire and the Gray/Black wire. Then measure the Orange/Yellow and the White/Pink. Both should have values between 40-125 Ohms. If that is Ok then your Modulating Valve (Servo) is Ok. Make sure you are measuring the correct side of the connector to the Servo. If all is Ok there Measure Voltage (Key On!) between the Light Blue/Black wire and the Black wire while someone is depressing the on switch on the wheel. If voltage isnt there you need to check the Yellow/Light Green wire for an open betwwen there and the column. If you have no voltage and the horn works I would suspect the Switch assembly itself....Other than those two things you need to recheck the dump valve and make sure you have vacuum at the servo.....Hope this helps...
And I have never seen an EEC issue with inoperative Crusie Control....Ever!!! And I have worked on a couple lets just say!
 
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Thanks for the information. I know its not a switch problem because I had a known working set. I'll test resistance at that connector, at least that will tell me if there is a wiring problem at the same time. Resistance at the servo is within spec.
 
There are four causes for the Speed control to be inoperative. The modulating valve is faulty(Servo Motor Open). The Dump Valve is faulty at the pedal. There is no vaccum source(Or leak) at the Servo. Or an open circuit for the speed control switches on the wheel. You need to locate connector C109. It is located in the area behind the passenger headlight. I know this sounds silly, but that harness runs all the way across the header panel and over to the drivers fender well to the servo. It is a blck connector with 6-pins. Disconnect it and measure the resistance of the Orange/Yellow wire and the Gray/Black wire. Then measure the Orange/Yellow and the White/Pink. Both should have values between 40-125 Ohms. If that is Ok then your Modulating Valve (Servo) is Ok. Make sure you are measuring the correct side of the connector to the Servo. If all is Ok there Measure Voltage (Key On!) between the Light Blue/Black wire and the Black wire while someone is depressing the on switch on the wheel. If voltage isnt there you need to check the Yellow/Light Green wire for an open betwwen there and the column. If you have no voltage and the horn works I would suspect the Switch assembly itself....Other than those two things you need to recheck the dump valve and make sure you have vacuum at the servo.....Hope this helps...
And I have never seen an EEC issue with inoperative Crusie Control....Ever!!! And I have worked on a couple lets just say!

Ok, I've diagnosed this as much as I know how at this point and have not found the problem. Here's where I am at:
First off, conector C109 is behind the driver side headlight! I don't expect anyone to memorize everything, thanks for being human!
-I located the pins at the computer and checked resistance between stated 3 wires for the servo. Both resistance figures are well within spec.
-Tested for continuity between computer and the 2 wires that run to the cruise control at the connector. Tested ok.
-I have 12 volts when pressing the "on" switch on the cruise control. *I just thought, I don't own a test light, so I cannot see if my 12 volts is carrying enough current to power a test light, this is something to check.
-I do have good vaccum at the servo at idle.
-I do not have any vacuum out the servo to the hose that goes to the dump valve. Not sure if this is proper operation or not. Maybe vaccum is only present above 30mph???

So, I am at a loss to this point. Any other ideas besides getting a test light???

I don't see it in the book, but is the speed sensor on the tranny related? 5-speed car. That is the only other piece I have "heard" that may be a factor. If it is, the computer may be preventing my cruise from working because of an issue with the speed sensor/wiring from it. The computer is doing its job in that case. My speedometer works......

Chris
 
Wow, that is a good one. Resistance of the Servo checks good. That suprises me. I figured that to be your problem. As it usually is with these cars. Yes the ECA reads the VSS. If your speedometer is working I would doubt that your issue is with the VSS. But to make sure you can check the resistance between PIN 3 DG/White of the ECA connector and the Same color wire in the VSS connector. Vacuum is only present to the dump circuit when the Servo is Actuated( Above 30mph). I think you have an command on issue. I would think that if everything is checking out....that it simply isnt getting the signal on command. Here is what you need to do to verify this...
Locate connector C182. The Gray 4 pin connector on the steering column. Disconnect it and measure the resistance of the Light Blue/Black wire and ground while operating the switches. Off should be under an Ohm. Set/Acc should be 646 to 714 ohms. Coast 114 to 126 Ohms. Resume 2090 tp 2310 Ohms.
Let me ask a couple of Silly questions....The linkage is Ok at the Servo and the Throttle body? Did this work before the Dash swap? You may have mentioned this before and I missed it.... And finally....do the brake lights work?
 
I feel your pain.....

I've had to diagnose CC problems before and they can be a real pain....

Right now, my 92 is giving me some problems and I don't really know where to start looking.....

It was working just fine before I swapped out the MC, so I am concentrating on that area first.....

Now, when I press the set button, it seems to take a while before the CC picks up the signal and I end up dropping 5 - 10 mph until it does.....

Once it is set, if I press the accel button it takes forever to get an extra 5 mph out of it (½ mile or more).....

Resume button is the same way (takes a long time to get back up to set speed).....

FYI: vacuum never gets lower than 8 hgs. when accel or resume buttons are pressed.....:confused:

CC kicks off as soon as I hit the break pedal.....

Thanks frdlvr30, as I was starting to think it might be the EEC.....
 
I feel your pain.....

I've had to diagnose CC problems before and they can be a real pain....

Right now, my 92 is giving me some problems and I don't really know where to start looking.....

It was working just fine before I swapped out the MC, so I am concentrating on that area first.....

Now, when I press the set button, it seems to take a while before the CC picks up the signal and I end up dropping 5 - 10 mph until it does.....

Once it is set, if I press the accel button it takes forever to get an extra 5 mph out of it (½ mile or more).....

Resume button is the same way (takes a long time to get back up to set speed).....

FYI: vacuum never gets lower than 8 hgs. when accel or resume buttons are pressed.....:confused:

CC kicks off as soon as I hit the break pedal.....

Thanks frdlvr30, as I was starting to think it might be the EEC.....

That sounds like a Switch or column contact problem Ed. Have you tried turning the steering wheel 20-30 degrees while pressing the buttons(Without crashing...lol)? Dead give away if that makes it respond quicker....
 
Ohm'ed the switch and all values were within specs....

I thought it might be the contacts in the column.....

Maybe I can put her up on jack stands and test it....:eek:

Could it be the speed sensor on the trans.....:confused:
 
I have a couple problems I would like to take care of with the car. I have a seatbelt light that always stays on when the car is on. Belts are all plugged in and I've tried unbuckling and buckling back in with no luck. The retractable part works on both sides and everything is plugged in as far as I know. I'm not too much of an electrical guy, but I know enough that I could take directions. I want to know where the best place to start would be, for finding what circuit is causing the light to stay on. Is there something I may not have plugged back in on the seatbelt retractors that would cause just a light problem, or something on the driverside seatbelt buckle?

Cruise control hasn't worked since I changed my complete interior. Press the button, and nothing happens. Any suggestions for that would be great. I would assume the problem is within the dash but I plugged everything back in as far as I know. I have never seen anything around the accelerator pedal that seems to relate to cruise control. If someone has pictures of what to look for, I would appreciate the help

Chris

You won't see it in the manuals but check your horn. If the horns are inop and fuse is blown CC WON'T work. Just something to check...Saw it many times in the Dealership. Does not show or even tell you to test the horn circuit in the EVTM's.
 
Got it fixed.....

Moved the dump valve closer to the brake pedal and now the CC has a robust feel to it.....:D
 
You won't see it in the manuals but check your horn. If the horns are inop and fuse is blown CC WON'T work. Just something to check...Saw it many times in the Dealership. Does not show or even tell you to test the horn circuit in the EVTM's.

You are right. I just looked at the EVTM. If the Horn/Haz fuse is blown, Circuit 6 Y/LG will be open on one side of the slip ring.....Good call...
 
To answer your questions, Brake lights work, speedometer works, horn works, linkage is fine and adjusted in route to finding a solution. Cruise worked when I bought the car in 2005 half way home before blowing gaskets(95% sure it worked:)). I did have the dash out and did replace the computer before ever driving this car again. I replaced the computer because when I was going to install my chip, I decided to open my factory computer up to check the circuitry. In doing so, I noticed something had gotten hot and burnt up in their. Maybe the fried capacitor was from me, I don't know. Either way, I checked resistance on the wires that run across the dash and they show fine from the computer all the way to the switches.

Ok, I was going to check the speed sensor resistance, but that can't be a problem because my speedometer works.

I disconnected C128, btw it has 2 pigtails that plug into it. I had to leave the other plugged in so the black wire could be grounded through the computer I assume.
Anyways these are my resistance numbers.
Off: 1 ohm
set/accel: 690 ohm
Coast: 151 ohms
Resume: 1463 ohms
Normally I would be happy in seeing that I have a switch problem, but I have an extra switch that I know worked. When switching between the 2 sets I get about the same numbers. Besides, set/accel should turn the system on, it is within spec.

so........I have to beleive that maybe I have a multi-meter error percentage problem. Guess I gotta borrow one from one of my techs to be sure. The one I'm using is an old one but it was a very good one when new. The one I am using does not measure down to 1 ohm increments. one ohm on mine reads .001. Maybe it just doesn't read accurate enough down low.

Either way, I have a known working servo and a known working cc switch on the car. problem not fixed though.

Other than thinking I better get a new badazz fluke which is probably going to happen either way, any other ideas other than computer? can a wire that is normal grounded by the computer but shorted to the frame of the car cause this? Don't know if a new cc switch assembly is available through ford but I guess I could pick a new one up if another multi-meter calls it kaput also.
Chris
 
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hey, would be it worthwhile to extend the vaccum line for the dump valve up, just to see if I do get vacuum above 30mph? That would indicate a definite problem with the servo side of this.
 
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