89 SC Won't Start

Need a little help. After being down for two years, trying too start rebuilt motor. I replaced all the sensors and plumbing. When attempting first start, the motor just cranks but will not start. While cranking, I get the steady UpShift light, which I have read here is indicating a bad Crank Sensor. Although it was new, I installed another new one. No Help. I am getting fuel and I checked for power to the Crank Sensor, which had 12V. I have also checked the wiring from the Sensor to the DIS and Cam Sensor, and the ground for the DIS module to the Accessory mount. No problems found. I did check for codes, and the only one that flashed was 11, which I think is default for no codes in the ECC memory. Hope that is enough info for someone to help. I am leaning towards wiring problem to the ECC. I am not sure where the ECC is located. When I find it I can check that connection to the Crank Sensor.

EEC is located on the right/passenger side of the dash, above the vertical kick panel. If you drop the glove box, you should see a shiny black plastic shield buried on the right, unless someone has been in there and already pulled things, in which case you may see the silver EEC, inside a white plastic cage, with the harness/connector pointed down. if you pull the kick panel, you can follow the harness upwards to help ID the EEC. The covers get pulled, then the connector (bolt in the center), then at least one bolt holding the cage to the panel, then the EEC comes down - takes some finesse if you elect to go that far.

Before going too far, you might want to double check that your ignition switch on the column, inside the dash (not the lock cylinder), is intact & properly connected. As you've already surmised, the upshift light during cranking should be dealt with...but I'd keep looking at engine harness connections before suspecting something that hasn't been disturbed elsewhere on the car. Good luck

I know this is elementary, but sometimes it helps to step back from all the potential sensor and computer spooky's and first think about the basic's

1-spark
2-fuel
3-timing
4-compression

Once you get a hunch which catagory you think the problem is in, then start to plug in all the potential pronlem makers.

FYI--I have fixed several Birds with bad ign switches.
The symptoms sometimes are crazy.
They are cheap and easy to replace--it would be worth doing

I tested all my wiring between the DIS, Crank Sensor, Cam Sensor and EEC. All the wiring checked good. EEC has a good ground. Still getting steady UPSHIFT light. I am starting to lean towards a bad DIS Module. But I am just not sure. Why would the shift light stay on. Does the Crank Sensor signal go through the DIS?

Did you inspect the ignition switch?

89silvercoupe > Does the Crank Sensor signal go through the DIS?
Check this out...

I am really getting frustrated. Took the DIS Module to Autozone for testing. It failed the Theshold test. So I bought a new one, installed it, and I still have the same problem. Shiftlight on and no start. I removed all the grounds and cleaned them because the battery ground felt warm. running out of ideas

Do you know how to test a crank sensor off the car? I believe you can simply put 12v to it and then make/break the air gap with a thin piece of metal, such as a feeler gauge.

Have you visually confirmed that the sensor ring on the h-balancer is passing thru the crank sensor air gap? No wobble?

What is the voltage going to the engine harness at the DIS, coil, crank & cam sensors?

Be careful w/the new DIS - you may have a condition that borked it and you could easily repeat that situation without yet knowing what's wrong. At this point, my money says you have a harness issue.

One more possible symptom, the radiator fan now runs continually. Is this possible related to the no start condition

89silvercoupe said:

One more possible symptom, the radiator fan now runs continually. Is this possible related to the no start condition

Click to expand...

At this point....anything's possible. What did your ign switch look like?

Follow the ts chart at the link in the other thread.

I have not checked the Ignition switch yet. Is it the ignition sw in the colume. What should I check. Power to the DIS or EEC

> Is it the ignition sw in the colume.

Not the key lock/cylinder at the top...the actual switch that is several inches down on the column. Remove three screws to separate the two-piece plastic bezel between the steering wheel rear and the dash. Look on the right side of the column. You should see a rod from the lock cylinder mechanism that travels down and actuates the switch. The wiring harness comes in from the top/left.

At least check that the switch hasn't come apart. Turn the key and see if anything jumps around @ the switch - does it open up when activated? If so...not good. It takes a torx bit to remove the two bolts that hold it to the side of the column. Believe it when people say that otherwise perplexing issues can be a result of a failed switch. Cost between $10~$20 for a new one.



>What should I check. Power to the DIS or EEC

Did you check the crank sensor according to step N3 on the ts chart?

It started

I finally found the problem. The Air Conditioning accessory bracket was not grounded to the engine block because I had repainted it in an effort to make the engine compartment nice. There for, I was not getting a good ground for the DIS module. I installed a bonding jumper th the chassis, and it started. Lots of frustration for a slight oversite on my part. Hope this helps other SC Drivers. Thanks for all the help

89silvercoupe> The Air Conditioning accessory bracket was not grounded to the engine block

Grounds & ground paths are critical on these cars, and can be hard to appreciate unless a scenario such as this pops up. Glad you worked things out and good luck w/your car.

Sometimes it is somthing simple.....