Crankshaft Sensor Testing

I was going to do this test. But if I dissconnect the crankshaft sensor, connect the + side of my test light to pin1 and the end to neg. where is the sensor getting power from to operate. It seems the light would not work. Is this sensor inductive. What am I missing here?
 
I was going to do this test. But if I dissconnect the crankshaft sensor, connect the + side of my test light to pin1 and the end to neg. where is the sensor getting power from to operate. It seems the light would not work. Is this sensor inductive. What am I missing here?

You need to tap into the wire that relates to pin 1 while the circuit is intact. Do this just downstream of the connector as long as you understand that a null result means either the connector and/or the sensor. Test on both sides of the connector if you want to check both. Easiest way is to pierce the wire with a straight pin, as long as you remember to seal it with silicone when you're done. Positive lead on the volt tester goes to the pin and neg. goes to ground. You can also connect a small test light, in the same manner, and watch for it to pulse as the engine is spun over.

One proper way (this also forces you to check the integrity of the connector) is with patch plugs that allow you to mate with whatever harness and use them to tap into for thorough testing. I doubt you have this equipment, which is why I first said to test if off the car. If you had the tools, you could also test the waveform after the analog signal was converted to confirm that particular element.

>where is the sensor getting power from to operate

Do you have a manual w/wiring diagrams? Pin 4, VBAT (battery voltage)...off the harness. If you'll study the drawings/diagrams associated with the troubleshooting tree, you will understand where. I'm not trying to make this harder for you, I'm trying to get you to understand more and then hopefully be more able to help yourself, which should reduce your effort, frustration and time :)

DISBlockDiagram.gif
 
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