Differential mount not available

Ben999_

Registered User
SC was in for inspection today and came out with a long list of suspension items to be replaced. Unfortunately I don't have the time or know-how to replace them all myself so I am having the shop do it. On top of that are the rear pads and rotors which I'll have to do.

Anyway, the issue I have is that I was told the rear diff mount needs to be replaced, along with the IRS bushings and transmission rear output seal, all of which are discontinued. The IRS bushings are available in poly so I will get those online, the rear seal I see is available at advance auto, so I'll probably get that, and as for the other diff mount, which he referred to as a "dog bone", and didn't know the real name of it, I was not sure about. I did some searching and finally came across this thread . Has anyone used the 4.6 diff mount in their SC? If it's the only thing available then I don't see any alternative. Is that the correct part number for the part that is still available (f3ly4b425a)? Help would be greatly appreciated. This is gonna wipe out most of my cash, better do it right I guess.
 
Try the junkyards, I've found many almost new parts at the local Pic N Pull junkyard for pennies on the dollar as compared to buying new parts at the dealer or auto parts stores, there isn't no shame in junkyard parts and they sure fit the budget. My best find to date is a cobra r hood that's on my black '94 for $40............:D
 
I have not been able to find an SC in any junkyards yet. Do you know if the diff mount is fine to use from any tbird with the 8.8 rear?
 
I have not been able to find an SC in any junkyards yet. Do you know if the diff mount is fine to use from any tbird with the 8.8 rear?

well i was in the pick n pull yard looking for one of these a few months back when the sc still ran....

looked to me as if any of the cars from 89-95 maybe higher had the same mount long as it had irs...

i went around and looked for the best looking mount(newest) found one on a mark 8 and took that one and put it on matched right up.. so i would think they all would work long as the car has irs...
 
thanks for the input. There are no pick n pull yards within close proximity to where I live so I may just have to get a used one from the boards.
 
Transmission output seal is still readily available from Ford, aftermarket should have it too. It's the same as the 4x2 F-150 with M5R2 trans. Ford p/n is E8TZ 7052 C, lots of stock in the warehouses.


cheers
Ed N.
 
That's interesting. It seems to me like the guy just didn't want to change it out on top of all of the other things that have to be done. Considering the gas tank has to be dropped to get the driveshaft out. Much more labor than the part is worth.
 
That's interesting. It seems to me like the guy just didn't want to change it out on top of all of the other things that have to be done. Considering the gas tank has to be dropped to get the driveshaft out. Much more labor than the part is worth.

Ben if you or your mechanic are going to do the IRS Bushing and other stuff, you don't have to drop the fuel tank to get the drive shaft out, just do it while the rear end is down and out.;)

Kill 2 birds with one stone.

See Ya!
Smtty
 
I will probably end up doing the diff mounts since he cannot get the parts. So I can disconnect the driveshaft, lower the diff and knock out both the IRS bushings, rear diff mount, and put on the output seal all at once? Does the driveshaft have to be disconnected at the U-joint? I think I saw a post that said it is a good idea to replace the U-joint while you're in there because it's cheap and usually shows some wear.
 
Unbolt the drive shaft and then lower the differential out of the way and slide the drive shaft back and out of the trans.
 
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Is this covered in the service manual cd at all? That's my only other resource. I haven't had a chance to take a look yet though. Probably easier than it sounds.
 
Is this covered in the service manual cd at all? That's my only other resource. I haven't had a chance to take a look yet though. Probably easier than it sounds.

It is easy..no need to pull halfshafts or any wires, when unbolted the pumpkin will lower enough to slide the driveshaft reward over the top of the pumpkin. You are probably going to need to drop the exhaust before lowering the pumpkin. I wouldn't mess with changing the u-joints unless they feel loose and clunky.

David
 
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