Launching with Transbreak

[SCrazy]

First time last night.......

Defiantely going to take some practice, lots of stuff going on the in cockpit.

Line locks on, burnout, linelock off, stage, neutral, transbreak on, put in gear, line launch rpm & hold, go......

It's like a juggling act.

The one time I got it right I launch at about 2700rpm and the car bogged, I think I was also late with the throttle after I released the button.

With a 3500rpm stall converter I was looking for about a 3000rpm launch but how high a launch can I actually get away with.......

[Kevin Leitem]

screw the line locks on a burnout, really only need them in a stick. i am sure people will tell you that it is hard on the brakes, but after the tires are wet just a little brake pressure is needed. as for the transbrake, i went as high as 3500-3700 on the brake with IRS. 3000 would be perfect with your stall, usually want to stall 500 below actuall stall. with the brake it is easy to see your true stall, just hold the brake on and see how high the engine revs.

also you need a two step in order for the brake to work properly. if you are trying to hold the engine at a certain rpm with the throttle then mash it when you realease the button you aren't doing any better than without. my brake button is hooked up to my 2 step when the button is pressed the brake and low rpm limit is set. I bring the rpm up a little when both cars are staged and when the first yellow comes on I mat it to the floor and release the button on the last yellow. when the button is released the rpm limiter now goes to high RPM limit

[fastsc92]

There is no doubt Brian that your car has some serious sack going down the track. Very impressive. Once you get that launch down I'm sure you'll be pleased.

Is there any other option for two steps other than the dis-4 and two tach adapters? ($700!!:eek:)

[Kevin Leitem]

There is no doubt Brian that your car has some serious sack going down the track. Very impressive. Once you get that launch down I'm sure you'll be pleased.

Is there any other option for two steps other than the dis-4 and two tach adapters? ($700!!:eek:)

I don't run the tach adapters on mine, I used too, but was having problems, took them off and everything went back to normal.

[fastsc92]

I thought you needed to run them in order to get proper ignition and tach signals...:confused:

[BLOWN38]

So how did the car run otherwise? Run better or worse fumbling with the brake for your first time?

[SCrazy]

Car ran great down the track.

I felt like a bumbling idiot at the line messing with the break but with a 114.4 and a 116.9 mph pass it definately hustles on the top end.

[SCrazy]

You make it sound a whole lot easier than it is.

I really only launched with the break one time but I can see that holding a fixed rpm with the the trottle then mashing it when I let off the break is going to be tricky.

screw the line locks on a burnout, really only need them in a stick. i am sure people will tell you that it is hard on the brakes, but after the tires are wet just a little brake pressure is needed. as for the transbrake, i went as high as 3500-3700 on the brake with IRS. 3000 would be perfect with your stall, usually want to stall 500 below actuall stall. with the brake it is easy to see your true stall, just hold the brake on and see how high the engine revs.

also you need a two step in order for the brake to work properly. if you are trying to hold the engine at a certain rpm with the throttle then mash it when you realease the button you aren't doing any better than without. my brake button is hooked up to my 2 step when the button is pressed the brake and low rpm limit is set. I bring the rpm up a little when both cars are staged and when the first yellow comes on I mat it to the floor and release the button on the last yellow. when the button is released the rpm limiter now goes to high RPM limit

[David Neibert]

I agree...the 2 step will be needed for consistant launches. It also gives you the ability to dial the launch rpms up or down a 100 rpms at a time to find what works best.

David

[Kevin Leitem]

the whole idea of a brake is to be able to be at full throttle while on the line. that way you can be at high boost and HP, before you even move.

Brian, you don't have to be in neutral to put the brake on. just stage the car like normal while in first and hold the button on then release foot brake.

[SCrazy]

Interesting......my break doesn't seem to want to engage unless I'm in neutral. I'll have to play with it some more and see if I can get it engaged in first.

If I understand the operation of the break correctly it engages reverse clutch while the car is in a forward gear effectively locking up the tranny. I don't see why it would need to be in neutral. If I engaged the break in neutral and left of the brake would the car roll backwards???



the whole idea of a brake is to be able to be at full throttle while on the line. that way you can be at high boost and HP, before you even move.

Brian, you don't have to be in neutral to put the brake on. just stage the car like normal while in first and hold the button on then release foot brake.

[Kevin Leitem]

of all the tranbraked cars i have been in they only work in first. if i hit the button in neutral nothing happens. do you have to press the button to back up? you should have to

[SCrazy]

When I ordered the tranny I had an option of two different kinds of breaks. One I needed to press the button to back up the other I didn't so I went witht he one where I do not need to press the button to back up.

I'm going to do a google search and see if there are two different kinds of breaks.

[SCrazy]

I spent a bunch of time playing with the brake today and it WILL engage in first gear but the car rolls forward about 6" after it is engaged and I think at the track in my near panic I was misinterpreting that as the brake not engaging. I'm going have to be careful how I stage so that when i roll forward those 6" I'm in not to deep.

I've also discovered that a number of bracket style brakes allow the normal functioning of reverse without depressing the brake button. All the pro-tree brakes you must engage the brake to back up. My car does not go into reverse when in neutral and the brake engaged.

Back to the track..........