Stock fuel rail suck/No Suck

89XR7TD

SCCoA Member
Just wondering if anyone has/or can make custom fuel rails cause I'm tired of messing with these stock ones:mad:

After taking out the 42's and putting the stock inj. back in I have problems!!!

Bolt holes don't line up with manifold good and still clips are pain in the arse with putting the injectors back on the fuel rail-Leaking

I'm not a great fabricator like some of you are, but I'm taking ideas:D

What about the fuel rail that came with the AR's???? I like the looks of them:D

Tom
 
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Been searchin around

Haven't found anything yet, but looking at my friend's 91 formula 350 has something i'd like to try and muster something up:confused:

Although I'm looking to get it done before the shootout!!!:rolleyes:

Maybe I should just be a more patient and take the fuel rail back off and try to put the clips in the injectors but the injector hats are a little bent.

Tom
 
If fuel rails ever came with A/R's... they don't anymore. There was a user here willing to make them at one time, though he dropped off the face of the earth after not following through on some I ordered.

There are companies that make fuel rail stock that you can then have drilled and machined as you need.

Personally I've had no issue with the stock rail when working with stock injectors or even the 60's I put in. If the rail isn't fitting right, then you don't have the injector seated properly. Lightly lubricate the o-rings with ATF so they will slide and not bind when pressed into the cups. There should be a distinct thunk, or snap when the injector clips into the upper cup. (not so much in the head) Typically the injector, when thunked into the cup is in too far for the clip to fit properly. So you need to gently pull it out to get the clip to slip into the right groove in the injector. Getting the clip back off once on the wrong groove is a pain.
 
you should just be able to push the rail into place. whent he injectors are in there is some place front and back for the rail. if you still have problems you can replace the hose that connects the two metal sides. get someadat fancy blue push-on hose and u should have more then enough flexability on it.. if it came off fitting, it can go back on fitting.... make sure you dont put the bolt in the FPR on the back of the head. that could make a pita for yah. you dont need it
 
I will try again

Thanks guys for the replys,

The clips are my main problem and yeah I dabbed a little bit of stuff on the orings, the injectors slide up nicely but when I try to clip them in my world gets turned up sidedown:mad:

Before I took the 42's out of the rail they had moved kind of freely, now when I clip in the injectors they always get on an angle and one side of the clip is on right and the other side isn't in place.

The other day I was trying to get them in right, another hour and same didn't get anywhere-frustrated is all I got.

Sometimes I think about putting on the new blue hoses but more of thinking I'll still have the same problem. I have another fuel rail but from sitting around for a while they got rusty inside where the injectors go and I don't think its good to use that one?

Tom
 
Thanks guys for the replys,

The clips are my main problem and yeah I dabbed a little bit of stuff on the orings, the injectors slide up nicely but when I try to clip them in my world gets turned up sidedown:mad:

Before I took the 42's out of the rail they had moved kind of freely, now when I clip in the injectors they always get on an angle and one side of the clip is on right and the other side isn't in place.

The other day I was trying to get them in right, another hour and same didn't get anywhere-frustrated is all I got.

Sometimes I think about putting on the new blue hoses but more of thinking I'll still have the same problem. I have another fuel rail but from sitting around for a while they got rusty inside where the injectors go and I don't think its good to use that one?

Tom

You can clean the rust off. The old injectors moved freely because over time the o-rings harden and shrink giving more than typical clearance, but they harden in the right spot so no leaks. New injectors are very hard to put in, but they will go if you push straight in, not at an angle. You have to overcome the squish of the o-ring. When you say something, you need to be careful of what you put on the o-rings. Many things can break down the compound of the o-ring, thus the ATF recommendation.
 
Used a little

Oil on my finger and went around the o-ring, not a lot just enough to help out..

I'll put in some more time later and more patience, probably trying to hard or something huh guys!

Tom
 
Oil on my finger and went around the o-ring, not a lot just enough to help out..

I'll put in some more time later and more patience, probably trying to hard or something huh guys!


Final note.. one memory that came up now is I believe I inserted my injectors into the rail before into the head. I was worried that the high force I found necessary when putting the rail onto the injectors if already in the heads could crack them. I couldn't ensure a nice angle for the force with them in the heads. So I put the injectors into the rail (I left the clips off) then lowered the rail with injectors towards the head and just adjusted their position one by one. Then I put the clips on, and then bolted the rail. I found if I bolted the rail before putting the clips on, I wouldn't get the movement necessary to get them on.
 
I found it easier to put the injectors in the rail first, lube the other end up a litt e bit and tap them with a rubber mallet. As it was said, the new O-rings make it a biatch to get the in.
 
Thanks again

I'll try that way Mike sounds like a keeper!!!!

I appreciate all the help!!!

Tom
 
FYI, I have heard that you should not use anything thicker than oil to lubricate the o-rings because it can clog the injectors. Just thought I would mention it.
 
Tabs for bolt holes

I think that the problem was one of the right side tab for the bolt hole was bent, thus not having the whole tab going over the manifold hole to go into:rolleyes:

Meanwhile, messed up a couple of o-rings today after putting on the other fuel rail I had which I didn't get enough rust out and ripped the o-ring.

It was more of a test fit to see if the other rail would work and all the bolt holes lined up cause the tabs were straight duh!!!:eek:

Well, off to get new o-rings tommorrow and straighten out the bent tab(s)

Also went to change J/S pullies from the stock to 10%, took the four bolts out and tryed wiggling it off but seems to be on there good.

My luck if this car ever runs again- the HB bolt will shear off or something:eek:

Just ranting!

Tom
 
Also went to change J/S pullies from the stock to 10%, took the four bolts out and tryed wiggling it off but seems to be on there good.

take some sandpaper and clean up the shaft as good as you can. to get um off i usually just use a screwdriver on both sides and wiggle it back and forth. it'll come off..
 
Thanks!!

take some sandpaper and clean up the shaft as good as you can. to get um off i usually just use a screwdriver on both sides and wiggle it back and forth. it'll come off..

Thanks Miller for the Tip!!!!

It's Miller Time:)

Tom
 
Some progress

Fuel Rail/stock injectors back in and SCP Fuel Pressure Gage Yeah!!!

Got the bolt out of the head which grounds the injectors/re-wired and bolted back in!-Shop that worked on the car putting in the 42's ripped the wire off and the bolt was still in the head:rolleyes:

Sandpapered-wiggled-worked off the stock J/S and anti-seized the shaft/then installed the SCP 10% J/S one.

It's been raining hard all day:mad:

Almost time to put MP2/MP Plenum/5% SC Pulley/Vac. Hoses/75 TB/etc. etc.,

When I had the 42's/76 C&L MAF w/purple sample tube/ Late model blower/ported plenum/75MM TB and CHip,

It would not stay running/idle nothing, So I'm hoping with the stock injectors in, Stock MAF in, took off the AFPR and put stock back on and will take Chip back off and will cross my fingers and toes that this thing runs!!!!!!!

If it runs I'll be so happy, if it doesn't run, you might not hear from me again...LOL

And Thanks For Your Support!

Tom
 
uhmm......

making the car slow FTMFL
leaving the good parts on , and finding the problem FTMFW
 
I tried

Tried getting it to run off and on for a year, thats why stock parts going back on.

I don't think its wise to buy used Injectors/AFPR anymore!!!!!

I just want it to run again, then i'll change to #50's and 80 C&L MAF all Brand New parts of course:) and have Dave to change up the Chip for 50's instead of 42's..

Please Run again God!!!

Tom
 
Just wondering if anyone has/or can make custom fuel rails cause I'm tired of messing with these stock ones:mad:

After taking out the 42's and putting the stock inj. back in I have problems!!!

Bolt holes don't line up with manifold good and still clips are pain in the arse with putting the injectors back on the fuel rail-Leaking

I'm not a great fabricator like some of you are, but I'm taking ideas:D

What about the fuel rail that came with the AR's???? I like the looks of them:D

Tom


Hi Tom,
just ran across your post on your injector problems and your asking if any custom rails are available!
I have laying around a custom billet set for the 3.8 SC if you are still interested. Asking $80 for the set. They are used and from my sons (Scott) collection of parts.
Here's a pic..

Cheers
John

parts017.jpg
 
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