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plev72
09-15-2002, 12:42 AM
So, hypothetically speaking, if you had $1000 max to totally redo your T-Bird Sound System, what would you invest in ... and would you do it yourself? I'm looking for specifics as I haven't had the chance to check in to it yet myself and I figure some of you out there probably live in the radio like the rest of live in the horsepower... what kind of head unit, amps, speakers, etc... and are there any parts of the stock system that you would keep, or would you replace it right down to the wiring? Keeping in mind that there is a budget.

Thanks for any info you are willing to share,
Paul


Trees 1 : New Edge Cougar 0

Tazer999
09-15-2002, 05:53 PM
Do you want bass or crips clear sound? Either way, if you want a REAL nice stereo, $1000 won't cut it. Personally, I didn't want much bass, I just wanted a bit more then stock. My entire system cost no more then $350 canadian. I have 2 10" MTX thunderpro 4000's in a custom box, a rockford 100.2 powering them, kenwood 3 way 5x7's in the front/rear of the car, and an eclipse 5440 cd player. Overall, I like it MUCH better then stock, and it still bumps hard enough for me.

SCYALTR
09-15-2002, 05:53 PM
Hi,
It would be hard to build a nice system for 1G buying retail (IMHO).
I think we need a little more information on what kind of sound you are going for. It also would be nice to know what kind of music you listen to. This may determine what kind of speakers you may want.

Here is a list of things I have in my 91SC
Alpine DVA 52**
Alpine 78** Headunit.
Alpine DSP 57**
Alpine MRV F407
Alpine MRV T757
2X Polk Audio Momo 6.5" Component
2 Alumapro 12" Subs

Laterz,
D Rainer

http://members.tccoa.com/deepsix/NRCLSC.bmp

phycobob
09-15-2002, 07:40 PM
This is how you do it:

70sq ft Brown Bread Sound Dampener (proven better than dynamat super, and much cheaper) $150

Pioneer Premier DEH-P740MP CD Player (2 year warranty, TONS of features, 4x22w RMS, OrganicEL, plays MP3s) $250

TWO pair Infinity Kappa 572.5cf Speakers (great sound, direct drop-in replacement, pivoting tweeter for precise imaging) $160

JBL GT1241D 12" DVC Subwoofer (high sensitivity, smooth response, 300w RMS, great value) $40

Lanzar L800D Class-D Monoblock Sub Amp (1-ohm stable, 400w rms at 2-ohm, 24db subsonic filter, 24db low pass crossover, best bang for buck) $150

Sealed Sub Box (3/4 MDF, solid build quality, within sub spec) $50

Lightning Audio 1 Farad Digital Capacitor (voltage display, good quality) $80

Install...(CD Player, Amp, Capacitor) $60

Misc...(RCA, wire, terminal connectors, fuse holder, deck kit) $60


Total cost: $1000
Total power: 488w RMS

All prices are with shipping included. AND everything except the sub is brand new with at least a 1 year warranty. Put the sound deadining on the doors and trunk...very easy to do yourself. Also install the 5x7's yourself (takes 5min). This setup will give you much better sound than most people's systems and wont break the bank. Also, because the 5x7's handle up to 100w rms, you can choose to add a nice 2x100w rms amp later and run it down to a 2ohm stereo load, effectivly quadrupling the power to your speakers. Then, get a second matching JBL 12" DVC to squeeze 800w rms from the monoblock amp for the subs. Your total power will then be about 1200w RMS, and you will likely have one of the nicest, loudest systems in your area. Good luck!

Tazer999
09-15-2002, 09:41 PM
Oh yah, forgot the brown bread on the doors and trunk lid.

phycobob
09-15-2002, 09:51 PM
Hey tazer, which one is your SC in the pic?

Tazer999
09-15-2002, 09:53 PM
The one on the left, blackouts and rims, lol

The one that lost the race badly, :(

plev72
09-16-2002, 09:47 AM
Thanks for the suggestions :-) In terms of what kind of sound I'm looking for... just something decent. I'm not a serious audiophile, but I definately like my tunes when I'm driving around.

Paul

dode
09-16-2002, 10:22 AM
Hmmm...ok...easy enough to do:

Head unit : $200 (pioneer makes decent ones in this price range)
Front speakers: $200 DEI makes a great set for under $200 studio series
Rear speakers: none
Subwoofer: Take your pick, but a few of my favorites are Image Dynamics IDQ, Aura Force, and Adire Audio Shiva for $150 or less.
Amp: 4 channel 75X4 or so. Good amp can be had for less than $200
Enclosure: $50
Wiring: $50

Total: $850
This would make for a simple and very nice sounding system. If you are interested in putting something like this in, let me know. I do installs on the side and have some equipment that I would make a fellow Tbirder a good deal on. Or, I could tell you where to get the best prices on the stuff. If you are interested or would like more specific advice, email me at [email protected]

John

Mike8675309
09-16-2002, 11:43 AM
I've been real happy with the stock JBL system and a 12" woofer in a custom enclosure. I've got a Pioneer CD head unit as well.

So am I 90% there to that $1000 dream system already? Or am I totally missing it?

Micahdogg
09-16-2002, 02:54 PM
That's funny, I just spent a grand to totally redo my Birds system:

-3 Lightning Audio 10's

**BEFORE YOU GO ON, I need to explain this. The L/A subs have CHROME baskets yo! FREAK. I know they are cheapo's, but I've got mine ~~~ out so you can see the chrome baskets and they are mad bling yo. For $18/each I'm giving them a shot.**

- Rockford Fosgate 400S Punch amp
- RF wiring kit (RCA's power wire, etc...)
- Pioneer 3 ways in both doors and rear panels
- Lanzar in dash DVD/CD/MP3/CDR player w/ built in amp and remote
- Lanzar in dash 7 inch motorized monitor w/ AM/FM and TV tuner.

That's it. 3 10's bumpin and a screen in the dash for DVD's and Dreamcast on the fly. I just have to get another Dreamcast used for $40.

I thought it was a good way to spend a grand.

Micah

phycobob
09-16-2002, 03:54 PM
I know they are cheapo's, but I've got mine ~~~ out so you can see the chrome baskets and they are mad bling yo.

LOL :rolleyes:

Micahdogg
09-16-2002, 04:05 PM
MAD bling! I couldn't have a basket chromed for $18.

Micah

cheeriosluvr
09-17-2002, 10:32 AM
This is what i would put into a $1000 system:

Head Unit: Clarion DXZ825 $300 or Pioneer DEH-P8400MP $350
Speakers: Infinity Reference 6x8 $50/pr x2 $100
High Amplifier: MA Audio MA754HX 85x4 RMS $200
Subwoofer: MA120XL 12" $100
Sub Amp: MA Audio MA582HX $200
Wires: 4 Ga/8 Ga dual amp kit made by eFx $65
Box: Sealed 1cu ft box $50

$1015 with the clarion or $1065 with the pioneer.

Not only will you have a nice system but have cyrstal clear highs and good hard hitting lows

todd

al35thsc
09-17-2002, 11:09 AM
It sucks that you guys are stuck paying close to retail on your stuff. There is a place close to work here in LA where they sell stuff at wholesale prices so I get everything relatively cheaper than any price at other places.

Al

PS If you want gimme a model number and I can go get ya a price. If the price difference is more than the price of shipping, maybe we can work something out.

Micahdogg
09-17-2002, 12:09 PM
ebay=wholesale.

In order to sell your stuff you've pretty much gotta go wholesale on car audio. A friend of mine could get wholesale on all the audio stuff at his place of employment....and a lot of the prices I saw on Ebay were similar.

Micah

al35thsc
09-17-2002, 12:20 PM
You still gotta pay whatever the guy wants to charge for shipping right? If you really wanted something I could send it the cheapest way possible and make it cheaper for you. I don't have to pay shipping when I get my stuff, I go to the stores pick out whatever I want, get 3 months for exchange warranty and one year for repair (at vendors expense) and I have a wide selection of everything.

Best deal I ever got there was a Hifonics (sp? I forget) Zeus series 2 channel amp for $159. It powered the HELL out of a 12 inch W6 JL bridged at 2 ohms.


Al

phycobob
09-18-2002, 04:51 AM
You want the best deal? Get it used! My entire old system (2 years ago) was used, and the $h!t still works. I won several SQ trophies with that stuff in my old mustang.

PPI 2075AM $72
PPI PC2150 $155
Polk db 12" + custom 1" oak box $66
Diamond Audio Hex 5.0s seperates $75
Infinity Kappa 693.1i 6x9's $50
Clarion DRX-9552 (reference deck) $250

All thanks to ebay! :D

Tazer999
09-18-2002, 11:52 AM
Jonathan: Got any amps lyin around that will power 4 10's nicely? Preferably around 250 watts rms per channel

dode
09-18-2002, 12:04 PM
250 watts per channel at how many ohms, and how many channels? Are you wanting to put two 4 ohm subs per channel? I might be able to help you out if you are looking for something like this.

John

Tazer999
09-18-2002, 12:18 PM
I don't know much about the wiring, or ohm loads, so please don't confuse the hell out of when I ask this, hehe.

Basically, 4 10's (mtx thunderpro 4000's). My friend said to get a class d 1 channel amp then wire the subs in parallel or series. My other friend said get a strong 4 channel amp and run it normally.

What do I do? Should I look up more stats on my subs for the ohm handling capabilities etc?

dode
09-18-2002, 12:25 PM
Ok...those are 4 ohm single voice coil subs. They can easily be wired into a 4 ohm or 1 ohm load, or at 2 ohms per channel with two subs on each channel. I wouldn't bother with a 4 channel amp. That would overcomplicate matters, and most likely be more expensive. I have a planet audio p2150 that is brand new in the box. It was leftover from when I did my system, shown here:

http://members.cardomain.com/93cougar

but all that stuff was stolen, so this is an extra. Would you be interested in it for $200 shipped? As I said, it is brand new in the box, and a very nice amp. It would be a very good match for your subs.

John

Tazer999
09-18-2002, 12:45 PM
That amp will be enough to power all 4? If so, I will probably take it, I just need some time to get money together (college is suckin me dry).

Oh yah, I picked up carpet. wood, switches yesterday, but not the wire. Should I run the power with 4 gauge or 0 gauge? Run the subs with 4 gauge or 8 gauge?

dode
09-18-2002, 01:10 PM
Yes, it would power those 4 nicely. As far as wire gauge goes, 4 gauge would be plenty sufficient if you are only running this amp and one other amp maybe. Even then, 4 gauge will carry a lot of current. As far as for the subs, do you mean what to run the wire to them with? 4 and 8 gauge are extreme overkill. 12 gauge would be quite sufficient.

I know how those college expenses are. I have been through that myself.

John

cheeriosluvr
09-18-2002, 01:42 PM
Run 4gauge power wire and ground wire from the battery to the amp and 10gauge from the amp to the subwoofers. Do not use terminal cups they suck. Direct wire the subs

todd

plev72
09-18-2002, 01:51 PM
So if I can to town can I beat out on the shipping? ;-) Soon as I:

1) Get back to the states
2) Replace the thermostat (and the radiator???)

I'll probably be out LA way for a visit to my step-sis.

Paul

al35thsc
09-18-2002, 03:12 PM
Heck yeah! It really isn't a mistery, everyone in LA who is an audiophile knows of the place and has been there at least once in their life.

Al

phycobob
09-18-2002, 04:08 PM
My suggestion would be to go on ebay and do a search for this:

LANZAR 800W OPTI CLASS D AMPLIFER

$160 with shipping brand new with a 1 year warranty, will handle 1ohm (those 4 subs in parallel), and puts out 800w rms. List price on this amp is $478. 200w per sub is perfect since those little MTX's cant handle much more than that. This is the best amp deal I know of right now, so check it out!

Tazer999
09-18-2002, 08:30 PM
Yah, they are rated at 400 watts peak, so I figure 250watts rms will be nice for each one, haha.

I'll look around on those amps more, but can I even run those 4 into a 1 ohm load without screwing them up?

Cheerios: How should I seal the box around the wire holes then if you want me to direct wire?

Tazer999
09-18-2002, 08:52 PM
Never found the 800 watt one, but I did find this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1381819948

1400 WATT Lanzar VHC2000 2 Ch Amp $728 @ $184

2 x 350 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
2 x 550 Watts RMS at 2 Ohms
2 x 800 Watts RMS at 1 Ohms
1 x 1100 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged
1 x 1400 Watts Max at 2 Ohms Bridged

The 2 x 550 watts rms at 2 ohms would be perfect for me wouldn't it? That would send 275 watts rms to each sub, and I could just turn the gain down a little bit so it wouldn't send them too much power. Only problem is that guy doesn't ship to Canada, and he is the only one selling them, :(

Tazer999
09-18-2002, 11:29 PM
John: How about $175 shipped?

PS: How hard would it be to hide the wires on the side of it if I was to mount it under a plexiglass window? Like would the wires be low enough for me to flush mount the top of it?

dode
09-18-2002, 11:55 PM
Yeah, I'd do that if you are planning on doing something soon. It should be pretty easy to do what you mentioned. When would you want to get it?

John

Tazer999
09-18-2002, 11:56 PM
Uhh, I get paid next friday, so I could send the money order off then.

Do you take paypal?

Edit: How wide is it by the way? It will fit in my spare tire well ident thing, right? Also, if I find this doesn't power them well enough, would most stereo shops be able to get me a second one of these easily enough?

dode
09-19-2002, 12:12 AM
That would be cool. Yeah, I take paypal. If it turns out you need another one, let me know. I know where two more of them are that are new in the box. I got them for a buddy of mine, and he lost his liscence and never used them. They are still new in the boxes sitting in his closet. I know he would sell them if I reminded him they were there.

John

phycobob
09-19-2002, 01:26 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1381319804

http://www.lanzar.com/l/SL800D.jpg

Tazer999
09-19-2002, 01:32 PM
Hey, here is another question.

When I get that amp from you John, it will be easy enough to hook up using rca's... But, my deck only has 1 set of pre-outs, so if I got a second amp, what would I do? Would I need a new deck? Or is there some kind of splitter for rca's so I could run one set to each amp

dode
09-19-2002, 01:42 PM
I've got you covered :) The amp I have has a set of RCA outputs for that very purpose :)

John

Tazer999
09-19-2002, 01:51 PM
Don't think you understood, heh.

My head unit only has 1 set of pre-outs, so it can only send a singla to one amp, right? (the one I am getting from you). What if I was to buy a second p2150? How would I get signal to that one?

dode
09-19-2002, 02:03 PM
I understood you...the amp has a set of RCA inputs from your cd player, but it also has a set of RCA outputs to run to a second amp. Very easy to do. That's how I did mine :)

John

Tazer999
09-19-2002, 02:10 PM
Ohhhhhhhhhhhh, doh, I didn't understand you, :D
K, that will be perfect then, haha

Now I just need to find a small blue lava neon for this idea I just had for the face of my sub box... Also need a little piece of 5% mirror tint and an MTX stencil....

Hehe, can anyone guess what I am going to do? :D

cheeriosluvr
09-19-2002, 02:14 PM
How is this for an MTX stencile???


http://images.cardomain.com/installs/7000-7999/7070_17_full.jpg

Todd

Tazer999
09-19-2002, 02:19 PM
Thats pretty good actually, :D

I just need somethin about 5 inches wide tho

Edit: Boom, found a perfect stencil. Its a sticker that is 7" wide, but hey, it will work great for a stencil then I can just peel it off afterwards. http://images.auctionworks.com/hi/45/45407/112_-_mtx_audio.jpg

Now for that mirror tint and blue lava neon....

plev72
09-19-2002, 02:25 PM
Ok, realizing that I need to invest in the "Everything about cars and car audio for Dummies book" correct me if I'm wrong here, but isn't standard car audio 4 ohm and household audio 8 ohm? I understand that ohms is a measure of resistance, but I'm not exactly understanding how all of this fits together... if it is a 1 Ohm amplifier then you need 1 Ohm speakers? It seems like you can put out more power if there is less resistance, what is the advantage to using 1 ohm vs. 4 ohm?

Also, for the average listener who is no going into competition sound but just wants something nice to listen to while cruising around town, does it matter too much whether I get a cheap amp (I've already got a cheap 500 watt Jensen that I barely used sitting in a closet back in the states) or a higher end amp?

Further, if I'm planning on adding 2 subs, is it best to run a 4x? for the main speakers and a 2x? for the 2 subs?

Thanks,
Paul

cheeriosluvr
09-19-2002, 02:31 PM
the best is to run a monoblock for the subs that is stable down to lets say .5ohms. Then get a good [email protected] ohms for the internals mids and highs and you will be slamming

Yes its very true that you will get more power from lower ohms......less resistance. if you are getting 2 12" subwoofers get dual 2-ohms coil configureations and wire the subs to get a 2 ohm resistance each sub then when you wire into the monoblock you will see 1 ohm :)

Car audio is usually based on 4 ohm voice coils but some compnaied indeed make 2ohm coils and 1ohms coils.
Home audio is usually 8ohms or 12 ohms

todd

dode
09-19-2002, 02:37 PM
Originally posted by cheeriosluvr
the best is to run a monoblock for the subs that is stable down to lets say .5ohms. They get a good [email protected] ohms for the internals mids and highs and you will be slamming

todd

I don't know where you came up with that, but that is not very good advice. How many people run a sub setup at .5 ohms? That's 8 4 ohm svc subs, which are the most common subs.

The amp must be taylored to the speakers you have, or vice versa. For normal usage, the amp you have not should be fine, though you will need to set your gains correctly so as not to drive the amp into clipping.

John

plev72
09-19-2002, 02:39 PM
Cool, thanks, for the clarification... so it is a matter of matching the amplifier to the speaker then. The other thing I'm wondering about, I'm looking at this ebay listing of this

PYLE PLA1040 1400W you know... gotta be turned on by the big numbers, it is a 4 channel.

The fact that it is 1400W Max Power doesn't actually mean anything does it? Aren't I supposed to be looking for something like RMS or continual load or something along those lines? And will a 1400W Pyle Amp for $122 shipped make me happier than my Jensen 4x150 600W that I already have?

dode
09-19-2002, 02:40 PM
No, it will not. Don't bother...that amp would not be an upgrade. If anything, you would be going the wrong direction.

John

Tazer999
09-19-2002, 02:44 PM
Well, here is mu current To get list for my trunk, haha.

- 4 silver toggle switches
- ?? sq ft Plexiglas
- 1 sq ft mirror tint
- 50 sq feet black carpet (got it)
- 3 sheets MDF (got it)
- 4 blue led spotlights
- Fire extinguisher
- Cap
- Wire (4 gauge, 8 gauge, 16 gauge)
- Planet Audio amp
- 2 10 MTX Thunderpro 4000 subs
- 2 distribution blocks (1 4 gauge to 4 8 gauge)
- MTX stencil
- Aluminium sheet (switch panel)
- Blue lava neon

cheeriosluvr
09-19-2002, 02:51 PM
please see how i said stable to .5ohms then wire the subs to 1 ohm

todd

dode
09-19-2002, 02:53 PM
What kind of distro blocks do you need? I have some brand new orion ones left over, as well as some wire if you need it. I have about half of a 250 foot reel of black orion 4 gauge if that would be of any use to you. I am sure we could work something out there.

John

Tazer999
09-19-2002, 02:55 PM
I need 2 of them if I just run one amp

it should be able to take 1 4 gauge input, and 4 8 gauge outputs.

As for 4 gauge wire, I would need umm, uhh, how much to wire it from the battery to the trunk? 25 ft? then 5 feet for each distribution block, so thats 35 feet, then a little bit for ground, so 40 ft

So yah, 40 ft of 4 gauge, and 2 distribution blocks (1 to 4)

dode
09-19-2002, 02:59 PM
Do you want fused blocks or no?

John

cheeriosluvr
09-19-2002, 02:59 PM
when lookin at an amp look for RMS power at 14.4 volts.

losts of companies that claim 1000+ watts for lets say $200 or less its most likly PEAK Power at 16 or even 18 volts

todd

analog_fog
09-19-2002, 04:55 PM
First, try this link for some good info about car audio and other electronics. <A HREF="http://www.the12volt.com/">The 12 Volt.</A>

Also as another alternative, in some areas of the country you can find very good audio shops specializing in car electronics. Now at first consideration, most people assume these shops are for very expensive competition setups. However, I have seen manycases where these shops build excellent systems at prices many times lower than comparative store-bought setups. A lot of this has to do with the fact that their tech knowledge of car electronics lets them design a system using only what is necessary, and using that equipment in the most efficient way possible.. to obtain the most use from it, that is. There are many factors involved in car audio; probably thousands. Also, these shops usually buy wholesale & in bulk, reducing the price on individual items. They also are good at making the setups look very nice and professional. Basically, just look for a quality shop that has a good reputation, and seems to know a lot about the topic. Hope thats useful..

Tazer999
09-19-2002, 07:29 PM
John: Now that you bring up fused blocks, what are the point of them? Doesn't the inline power fuse already cover it enough against surges?

cheeriosluvr
09-20-2002, 08:31 AM
I would go with fused distribution blocks and use the fuse up front. When you split it into 2 or 4 power lines each sould have its own individual fuse......at least thats what i learned while becoming MECP certified

todd

wwotr
02-28-2003, 06:30 PM
Maybe a little late on this but I just spent about $880.00 (components only) for my 90 SC.

I purchased an:
Alpine MRP-F200 Amp
AlpineCDA -7892 Head Unit
Alpine ERF-G 180 Graphic Equilizer
2 Sets of Clarion SRC-? (they're the plate mounted 5" with the adjustable tweeters.
Now my son had a 6" amplified Bazooka Tube he wasn't using (so I inherited that).

I listen to 70's/80's rock and not too much newer stuff so Bass wasn't THAT important but this system kicks some serious ***!
Yes I DID have it installed but this shop did great work.Mounted the amp on the fold-down portion of the rear seat and mounted the tube right next to it out of the way.
This is THEE best sounding system I have had in my life.
The speaker hold up and only distort when I get carried away.
An EXCELLENT choice of components in my case!

:D