Here's the annotated way I did it sometime back, not last weekend like it states:
TbirdSCFan:
Whew. Just did mine last weekend.. what a JOB! I found no way around this, but basically I took eveything off the Driver side: wiper arms and driver side cowling [I'll explain later], washer reservoir, upper IC tube, IC, pwr steering pump pulley, coil pack, alternator, psp bracket, lower IC tube. Then went to work on the 5 bolts. I wasn't able to get enough leverage without getting parts out of the way. The through bolt was really tight (almost broke a 13mm 3/8 socket on it). Probably around 120 lbs or so. If you use a swivel, extensions, and breaker bar, you can get the back bolt off from behind the subframe without having to remove the steering rag joint. The wheel needs to come off to get enough room to get to it.
For the passenger side, It was tricky, but same basic thing. Took the A/C compressor bracket off. Here's the trick: DON'T take the SC belt off until AFTER you remove the 2 bracket bolts to the right of the tensioner pulley. Then remove both belts and the idler pulley, unbolt and tie off the compressor, move the coolant reservoir out of the way. Oh yeah take the air cleaner and intake tube off. Then take the bracket off. Now, you'll have enough room to get to all the mount bolts on the front side. I DID break the 13mm socket on the through bolt on that side. Damm but those were tight. The rear bolt was just like the driver side. It wasn't necessary to remove the starter.
You'll need to jack up the engine to get the motor mount pieces out and the new ones back in. This is why you need to remove the cowling. Be sure to place a 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan so you don't crack it.
Thats about it. Getting the IC tubes back on requires finesse. One hint on the IC tubes.. Don't tighten any bolts/nuts securely until its almost reassembled. Leave some wiggle room.
I'm in the process of writing up exactly how I did the job.
As for you super mechanics who can do the job without taking parts off, I salute you. It wouldn't have been possible for me to get enough leverage to remove the bolts otherwise.
Some of those bolts were very tight.
TbirdSCFan:
From the comments I've heard about the knock sensor, and the starter it leads me to believe that the passenger side has some different things from the various years. On the 90 model, the passenger side is a breeze and you won't need to bend or remove really anything. The starter is way back away from the mount, and the shield is not in the way at all.
In retrospect, I really think it is doable on the passenger side without removing the compressor bracket. I found out when I regreased my plug boots the other day and crammed my arm way up to reach the #1 boot (my arm was sore from it), but the 3 front bolts (2 on the block and the 1 through bolt) are accessible. Its a blind shot though and no way without extensions and swivels.
Also for me, it wasn't really a waste of time, I was replacing the plugs, tightening the valve covers, and doing some cleanup. And with the stuff out of the way, getting the bolts back in wasn't a hard task because you could see them.
When you remove the mount from the bracket, you'll need a vise or what I used was a Black-n-Decker Workmate as the big nut is on there pretty good.
Here's one other note about the 2 through bolts.. TBKHomeworld managed to round off one of them and I think it upset him such that he gave up on the job. Be SURE you get a solid bite on that bolt with a 6 pt 1/2" drive 13mm socket seated completely. You will need leverage. This is easier with the tubes and stuff out of the way, but it adds considerable time to the job.