SC Plug Stripped and mystery Vacuum Hose

Melt

Registered User
I just got my engine rebuilt and after having it home a month I finally got the check engine light to stop coming on.
It turned out to be a vacumm hose attached to the BAP sensor. I disconnected the hose but can't find where it goes so as a test I plugged it and it runs good. I just need to turn up the idle a bit because when downshifting it stalls or comes close to every now and again
Anyways, now that it's running I heard a little chatter that I think is comign from the SC. I havea 10% pulley and new belt on it. I didn't notice this sound before and you can only hear it when the hood is open and I am leaning over the engine. I tried to get the plug out to check the oil but it is stripped.
I tried using a 5mm hex bit but that just slipped too.
Any ideas on how to get it out and are replacement plugs availalbe still?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I just got my engine rebuilt and after having it home a month I finally got the check engine light to stop coming on.
It turned out to be a vacumm hose attached to the BAP sensor. I disconnected the hose but can't find where it goes so as a test I plugged it and it runs good. I just need to turn up the idle a bit because when downshifting it stalls or comes close to every now and again
Anyways, now that it's running I heard a little chatter that I think is comign from the SC. I havea 10% pulley and new belt on it. I didn't notice this sound before and you can only hear it when the hood is open and I am leaning over the engine. I tried to get the plug out to check the oil but it is stripped.
I tried using a 5mm hex bit but that just slipped too.
Any ideas on how to get it out and are replacement plugs availalbe still?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Maybe that vacume hose goes to the bypas valve behind the supercharger that would account for the ratteling sound (under vacume the bypas shuold be pulled open unloading the blower)
 
The engine needs that sensor to run correctly, that will probably account for your idle problem. As far as the SC, your rattle is probably the couple going bad. I use a hex bit on an extension ant push down while turning with a ratchet. They are in pretty tight. Also, I'm pretty the hex is a standard size.
 
I tried getting the plug out again after reading on the forums and a 3/8" bit just turns easily and the 7/16" bit wouldn't fit. I had a hard time getting the 5mm in but it went in but still turned inside the plug.
I also checked the bypass valve and it looks to be hooked up correctly.
Here is a picture of the bypass valve and the vacuum hose that is not connected.
 

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I tried getting the plug out again after reading on the forums and a 3/8" bit just turns easily and the 7/16" bit wouldn't fit. I had a hard time getting the 5mm in but it went in but still turned inside the plug.
I also checked the bypass valve and it looks to be hooked up correctly.
Here is a picture of the bypass valve and the vacuum hose that is not connected.

When you start the car dose the bypas move?
 
I tried getting the plug out again after reading on the forums and a 3/8" bit just turns easily and the 7/16" bit wouldn't fit. I had a hard time getting the 5mm in but it went in but still turned inside the plug.
I also checked the bypass valve and it looks to be hooked up correctly.
Here is a picture of the bypass valve and the vacuum hose that is not connected.

When you start the car dose the bypas move?
Is that the hose that goes to the PVC valve? (my moter is out right now or I could go check)
 
I'll have to wait until my girlfriend gets home to see if the bypass valve moves when I start her up.
The PCV valve is hooked up I checked that yesterday when trying to figure out where this vacuum line goes. I have looked at the main vacuum tree and it seems correctly hooked up, the windsheild washer looks hooked up and I can't find any connectors where it looks like this should go.
 
I was reading on the forums that changing the cam sometimes means you have to adjust the idle by pulling out the white cap on the throttle body and adjusting the set screw.
I adjsuted the screw in and it started rough idling just like it does before it stalls. I adjusted it out and it kept idling higher so I left it about a 1/4 turn farther out then when I started.
The strange part is that after the car came up to temperature this adjustment seemed to have no effect. After the engine heated up turning the screw all the way closed or a turn farther out didn't change anything.
I also checked the bypass valve and it got sucked all the way on when idling.
 
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The hose was cut

I tried getting the plug out again after reading on the forums and a 3/8" bit just turns easily and the 7/16" bit wouldn't fit. I had a hard time getting the 5mm in but it went in but still turned inside the plug.
I also checked the bypass valve and it looks to be hooked up correctly.
Here is a picture of the bypass valve and the vacuum hose that is not connected.


That hose was cut, it goes over to the drivers side near the fender/under the cowl and connects to all that vacuum hoses.

I'll find a pic for you!

Tom
 
pics found but

Look for the hose that has like a reddish stripe and follow that and it has like a round thingy connected.
That hose was cut, it goes over to the drivers side near the fender/under the cowl and connects to all that vacuum hoses.

I'll find a pic for you!

Tom
 
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Thanks as soon as the weathe clears up i'll go have a look under the hood. I hate working in the rain.
 
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