DataLogging. ACT. More power?

ricardoa1

Registered User
Got off my butt and decided to wire up the data logger. Its a LM-1 with an RPM converter.

I got six values going.

I got everything wired up including getting the wideband out of the neon.

The whole thing tuned into a disaster.
The O2 seems to have been working well.
I started by calibrating the RPMs I got it to read right by setting 5Volts to 3500 and that seems to display the correct rpms on the computer. Then I moved to the MAP sensor. I was unable to calibrate this right, no matter what I did I could not get it to match in PSI. So I gave up on it.
I left TPS in Volts and MAF in Volts. I guess I could turn them into 100% values 0-5V=0-100% but I left them like that,
Then the most important to me right now was the ACT sensor. I calibrated that according to the chart thats floating around here. And it seems to work well.

I went for a ride and the 02 sensor crapped out, Started reading bogus numbers. Then after the runs I noticed I never went past 3500 with the calibration on the RPMS so it pegs 3500 and doesnt really know what Rpms the car is it.

The runs was a 3rd gear pull and shifting into fourth and running that gear out. Then I stopped.
Bottom line is ACT temps never went past 130F if my calibration is right.

The weather is cold at. 54F So I dont think I will be able to find the problem until the weather gets hotter.

Ill try again tomorow and see if I can at least get the RPMS right.
 
RPM isn't measured in volts. It's frequency. For example, my RPM configuration looks like the image attached.

When you say O2 isn't working... what do you mean. how are you reading the data. i've seen goofy readings on all channels, including o2 when using a Serial to USB converter.

too hot, it'll likely freeze at over 20:1. Did you run a calibration when you moved the o2 to make sure it's got a baseline for clear air?
 

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Got off my butt and decided to wire up the data logger. Its a LM-1 with an RPM converter.

I got six values going.

I got everything wired up including getting the wideband out of the neon.

The whole thing tuned into a disaster.
The O2 seems to have been working well.
I started by calibrating the RPMs I got it to read right by setting 5Volts to 3500 and that seems to display the correct rpms on the computer. Then I moved to the MAP sensor. I was unable to calibrate this right, no matter what I did I could not get it to match in PSI. So I gave up on it.
I left TPS in Volts and MAF in Volts. I guess I could turn them into 100% values 0-5V=0-100% but I left them like that,
Then the most important to me right now was the ACT sensor. I calibrated that according to the chart thats floating around here. And it seems to work well.

I went for a ride and the 02 sensor crapped out, Started reading bogus numbers. Then after the runs I noticed I never went past 3500 with the calibration on the RPMS so it pegs 3500 and doesnt really know what Rpms the car is it.

The runs was a 3rd gear pull and shifting into fourth and running that gear out. Then I stopped.
Bottom line is ACT temps never went past 130F if my calibration is right.

The weather is cold at. 54F So I dont think I will be able to find the problem until the weather gets hotter.

Ill try again tomorow and see if I can at least get the RPMS right.

give me a call if you need help getting things configured
 
RPM isn't measured in volts. It's frequency. For example, my RPM configuration looks like the image attached.

When you say O2 isn't working... what do you mean. how are you reading the data. i've seen goofy readings on all channels, including o2 when using a Serial to USB converter.

too hot, it'll likely freeze at over 20:1. Did you run a calibration when you moved the o2 to make sure it's got a baseline for clear air?

I tried recalibration, but it did not help. Maybe the sensor got too hot. It is really close to the heads on the manifold. I will try recalibrating it again when All of the exhaust gases are out of the It was reading over 20.1

I think I can still recalibrate the run without redoing it. And get good numbers out of the values there. Is that how the RPM is set on your picture.
 
This is what it looks like right before I let off in fourth.
 

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data logging has been the hot topic this month so I'm trying to put together a tutorial this weekend for set-up and install of my system as well as an optical sensor to measure ignition advance. I just haven't decided whether to put it on the public forum or the members section. Perhaps both.

Regarding RPM

In the LM programmer choose "custom RPM" and set the max RPM to something like 6800. Once in logworks configure a channel and set a max RPM to 6800 as well. The reason for this is that logworks has a resolution of .1% of the full scale range. So if you keep the factory default as 10230, you'll lose a lot of accuracy. basically 6800 is equivalent to 5volts and 0 rpm is the same as 0 volts.
 
something doesn't seem right with your graphs. What is reading 5 volts? or close to 5 volts? The TPS should be around 4.4ish and the MAF should be around 4 volts. Anything higher and you're pegging the MAF which you'll lose total fuel control at that point and the computer goes into a pre-programmed limp mode.

Back the RPM's...it is measured in frquency, but logworks converts that to a range of 0-5volts.
 
something doesn't seem right with your graphs. What is reading 5 volts? or close to 5 volts? The TPS should be around 4.4ish and the MAF should be around 4 volts. Anything higher and you're pegging the MAF which you'll lose total fuel control at that point and the computer goes into a pre-programmed limp mode.

Back the RPM's...it is measured in frquency, but logworks converts that to a range of 0-5volts.

Your not close to pegging a MAF at 4 volts. When you get close to 4.8 volts then you should start thinking of an upgrade, and if you have increased your max MAF voltage to 5 volts you won't get dinged either. Also, the maximum range is not 5 volts, but 5.12 volts. My car can easily see 4.2 volts on the MAF and I am no where close to pegging it.

Frit
 
I forgot to classify.

I put the MAP on input 2, But I could not figure the values for this.
MAF on input 3
TPS on input 4

Is it normal for the TP not to be at a full 5V when WOT.

I am still confused on where and what to put for the RPM.
 
I'd be curious as too how much your entire setup has cost you.

Frit

I had this equip for over 3 years, I dont remember what I paid then.

I also have my racers package that I never really used too afraid of blowing stuff up.

Ill get there someday.


Anyways any input on my temperatures?
 
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Regarding RPM

In the LM programmer choose "custom RPM" and set the max RPM to something like 6800. Once in logworks configure a channel and set a max RPM to 6800 as well. The reason for this is that logworks has a resolution of .1% of the full scale range. So if you keep the factory default as 10230, you'll lose a lot of accuracy. basically 6800 is equivalent to 5volts and 0 rpm is the same as 0 volts.

Interesting. I hadn't heard this before. The default always seemed to be sufficient. But I can see what you're saying on loosing resolution. I'll have to try changing that and see what I get.

I don't recall the cost for my equipment. It was about $600 all in for the LM1, plus Aux Box, weld in bungs, longer data log cable, and exhaust bracket. (for logging other cars)

Free air should show up as around 20.7-20.9. (power to the sensor, engine off.)

If you're right at the headers, I'm guessing the sensor goes way hot. Are you using the standard o2 sensor location? You need to get a good heat sink for the body of the sensor. Dave Dalke should be able to recommend a design for the heat sink. Otherwise Innovate sells one, that's pretty expensive but works.
 
Does someone have a table for an aftermaket MAP sensor? I loaded a table for a GM 3bar and it did not match.
Mine came out of an HKS electric boost controller kit. Not sure on the brand. I would think its 3bar.

Also I am unable to get the RPms to work. I set 6800 to 5V and it it reads something like 1400~
The only way for the RPMs to match is if I scale the 5V to 3500RPms that will give me a good 750rpms when the car is at idle, But looking at my datalogs it looks like it goes off calibration when past 1500 actual RPMs.
I dont know how to set it. My program shuts down in error if I increase Volts past 5V.
 
Leave the rpm range at the standard 10230. Where are you getting a tach signal from? You should be getting it from the back of your instrument cluster or else from the EEC.

Your temp readings are backwards. Did you input the ACT transfer function?

You have to have the transfer function for your MAP sensor. You can't do this without one.

Your O2 sensor appears to be overheating. Make a heat sink out of a piece of 1/8" aluminum by drilling a 3/4" hole in it and screwing in the 02 sensor through the plate. The aluminum pulls heat out of the sensor and prevents overheating. Size and shape is not terrible important. I've used sizes ranging from 2"x10" to 6" square.

Name your input channels so they don't show up just as "input 2" etc. It's difficult to help you when I can't follow what you are logging.
 
I think I got a good one.

MAP is still not good but whatever.

It is top of third to 5100 and some of fourth gear. Temps outside were 55F and ACT still reaching 130F.
 

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Looks like it might be time to dump that lightening MAF (just going by your member page) as your getting close to pegging it. Your AFR is a little on the rich side but not by much. Your MAF transfer is quite close if your commanding an AFR of 11.7, but I wouldn't fuss with it too much as your probably better off upgrading your MAF anyway.

ACT's are not bad considering how long your WOT. Your just starting to get some spark retard at 120F if those settings are still fairly stock.

I get the occasional spike in my AFR with the PLX SM-AFR I run, but I think its more to do with an electrical spike somewhere.

Just my observations.

Frit
 
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