View Full Version : Datalogging 101 with pics(56k beware)

10-06-2008, 12:59 PM
Since datalogging has seemed to be the hot topic this month, I figured I'd add in my personal input and install information. This post is not designed to cover everything, but to just highlight some of the important information when installing an Innovate system. PLEASE READ THE USER MANUALS. It's not as complete as I'd like, only because it's not a step-by-step process since it was already installed in the car for a few weeks.... Regardless, it should help someone.... I was going to put this in the members only section, but for now it'll stay here. Sorry for the huge pictures...

The components being used are an Innovate LC-1 and two SSI-4 data-logging units. When you first get your LC-1 it'll look something like this:


You'll notice that there is one main cable which houses the power, grounds, and signal wires, and two smaller cables that have female headphone-style jacks. One is labeled "IN", the other "OUT". If this is the first devices in the "chain", you'll want to install a terminater plug on the "IN" port. This is just to tell the software that there are no other devices before it.


On the main harness you'll typically have 6 wires. Red is +12, Blue is heater ground, White is system ground, Yellow is output#1, Brown is output #2, and Black is a calibration wire. In this picture, brown is not shown, but it is housed within the female stero jack, which is used on my Moates remote display. Yellow is capped off since I do-not use it. I installed some terminals on the ends of the other wires and tied the blue and white wires together as I will be using the same grounds. The black wire gets a seperate connector(more on that later...).


When you open up the SSI-4, it'll look something like this, with only the green plug as shown on the top. You'll have to fabricate a harness as shown for your inputs. The unit is capable of logging 4 inputs and can calculate injector duty cycle, rpm, spark advance, and even has a VR amplifier to condition signals from speedometer sensors. The unit needs the signal + as well as the signal - from each sensor that is tapped into. RPM and injector signals do not need grounds.


The best way I found to tap into signals is to construct something shown below.


This bus pannel is mounted behind the glove box on a piece of sheet metal. Now it may look intimitating at first, but everything is clearly labled and neat. The bottom block holds all my + signals from my sensors. The center block holds all my sensor grounds, and the top block holds my chassis grounds and fused, switched, 12volt power. All of the signal + are taken from cleanly splicing into the factory ECU harness, and running the wires up to the terminals. The bottom terminal, from left to right are : RPM, Injector signal, crank trigger, ACT, MAF, TPS, MPH, G-sensor. Heat-shrink and proper soldering are a must. Here are the wires coming from the ecu harness.


Now the reason I made those terminal blocks are so that I can easily change what sensors I want to log in the future, as well as making it real easy to transfer the SSI-4's to another vehicle since they have a separate harness.

Once you route the SSI-4 harness to the terminals, it'll look messy, but everything is clearly labeled and organized. You can see that some signal grounds are shared, and this is done by the use of jumpers between the terminals.


Now that the messy work is done, you can start by installing the LC-1 into the car. I chose to put mine under the center console, and run the wires to behind the glove-box. Install and removal are easy. The sensor itself is run to a weld-in bung near the tranny cross-member. Leave the sensor exposed to free air at the moment. Once you run power to your LC-1, cycle the key and turn the unit on for 10 seconds without the sensor plugged it. Shut off the power, and now connect the sensor. Turn the unit back on and allow the system to perform a heater calibration followed by a free air calibration.


Turn off the power after a few minutes and install the sensor into the bung, and you can now start to measure your o2 readings. This is where I mounted my SSI-4's and you can see how its real clean, and easy to access. The units are "chained" together so the LC-1 output installs in the SSI-4 #1 input, ect ect.


The red pushbutton and the led are used for sensor calibration. Wire then up as shown in the manual. Basically, you connect the LED in parallel to the switch, and the switch to ground. This is where that black calibration wire is used. If you refer to the manual, you'll see what I'm talking about. By holding the push-button down, essentially grounding the calibration wire, you perform a free air calibration. By hooking up the LED you can see sensor errors as well as what the system is doing.

10-06-2008, 01:01 PM
Part two of the install

Now that the install is done, you can focus on setting up the programming. Each device will need to be configured seperately using the LM programmer. Refer to the manual for this.

Once the software recongnizes that you have devices connected, you'll have to configure the channels and add gauges to your digital dash. First let's configure the RPM


You can see that I put my full RPM range to 6800. I'll never bring my motor to that range, so it's a good place to start. I also named my channel "RPM"

Next you can configure the MPH sensor as shown below:


The TPS:



ACT sensor with custom transfer function:


Injector Duty Cycle:


Ignition Advance:


And G-sensor with custom transfer function:

In the end you'll have a dash similar to what is shown below. I aslo have automath channels that calculate realtime engine load, realtime hp/tq using the g-sensor and a gear indicator that uses RPM, MPH and gear ratios to let me know what gear I'm currently in. Works like a charm surprisingly and makes it really easy to know what gear I was in while driving around to compare engine loads, ect.


I hope this info was helpful to someone. I'm working on writing another install about making an optical sensor for measuring ignition advance, which will come later in the week.

10-06-2008, 01:46 PM
Looks usefull. How did you come up with your MAF kg/h range values?

Any comments on your tap points for some of the items you're displaying?

10-06-2008, 03:05 PM
The kg/h conversion is done by importing a correct MAF transfer function. The only reason that it is in kg/h is so that my engine load calculation can be correct. In order to get a correct transfer function, I forced open loop, and set all the values in my OL fuel table to 13.0. I then drove around part throttle and was able to trim out my MAF curve since I know that I'm commanding 13.0, regardless of load, and I can trim this out to around 2.8volts MAF. The rest is done by doing WOT passes to get in the range of 3volts to 5 volts. Now that I know my curve is 100% correct, I can input that function into logworks. The end results of doing the trimming is MUCH smoother closed loop control.

As far as the signal points....

RPM-->pin 36
Injector-->pin 12
Crank Trigger--> Optical Sensor
Crank trigger neg--> Optical Sensor
ACT-->pin 25
ACT neg-->pin 6
MAF--> pin 50
MAF neg-->pin 6
TPS-->pin 47
TPS neg-->pin 6
MPH(VR input)-->pin 3
MPH neg-->pin 6
G-Sensor-->external PLX 2-axis g-sensor
G-Sensor neg-->chassis ground

This is for the 92 model...not sure of the pin-outs for other years.

10-06-2008, 04:30 PM
Nice and clean setup.

Ira R.
10-06-2008, 04:47 PM
You didn't have to put the O2 sensor in front of the cats?? Uhm, actually, do you even need cats in NH??


10-06-2008, 06:15 PM
Its usually recommended to run the O2 sensor before the cat if you have them. The cats can actually scew the AFR reading on you by up to a whole point.


10-06-2008, 07:13 PM
no cats for me;)...... I'm running long tubes and the wideband bung is after the collector. It's here if you can see it before the resonator.