Rewiring Fuel Pump for full voltage.

ricardoa1

Registered User
Anyone have some pointers on how to wire up the fuel pump for a real 12V and not have the crappy factory wires not send enough volts
 
Move the battery to the trunk and rewire the fuel pump relay with bigger wires. Note that when running you should see around 13 volts at the fuel pump.
 
I got the kit in today.

Instructions are not supplied. It easy to figure out but I need to connect the Main + feed to the main pump + and they also supply a new - wire to ground to the car. Is this needed? or should I leave the stock ground at the pump, also where is the best place to tap into this.

The original + wire near the pump will become the signal wire for the relay.

Also is there a way of doing this without having to drop the gas tank or is this the only option.
 
If it were me, I'd drop the tank, but you can get at the harness if you pull the rear seat. You'll see the harness going through the floor.

The extra ground is just a redundant ground, but I'd still use it. How is the quality of the kit. I've been thinking about getting one. It'll be easy for me since the battery is in the rear and I don't have to fish the wires everywhere.

To install the Racetronix wiring harness simply connect one end to the car's battery + or alternator + ouput terminal. The other end splices in series with the factory power feed to the fuel pump. The old factory + power wire turns on the relay in the Racetronix harness. The relay supplies direct battery power through its thick 10 gauge power feed wire directly to the pump thereby providing maximum performance. Extra wire length is provided so that you can chose your preferred spot to route the wire.
 
I got the kit in today.

Instructions are not supplied. It easy to figure out but I need to connect the Main + feed to the main pump + and they also supply a new - wire to ground to the car. Is this needed? or should I leave the stock ground at the pump, also where is the best place to tap into this.

The original + wire near the pump will become the signal wire for the relay.

Also is there a way of doing this without having to drop the gas tank or is this the only option.

I forgot to do it with my 93 when I had the tank out, but to make this easier in the future, I'd suggest pulling the rear seat after you drop the tank. Then cut an access panel in the floor of the car so next time you can get at the fuel pump and harness.
 
Extermely high quality. I highly recomend it. Comes with everything you need.

Any others think I should drop the tank to do this or is the harness at the back seat good enough?
 
You can get to the harness from under the seat. It's the heaviest gauge wire of the harness going through the floor.
 
Also is there a way of doing this without having to drop the gas tank or is this the only option.
it is ether drop the tank or make a accsess hole under the back seat. but the new cover has to have the seat retainer welded to it after you cut it out of the piece you just cut out of the floor. :rolleyes: if you feel like taking the time to make the cover. i would go that way. still faster than droping the tank:p
 
I must be a pro at dropping the tank. I can jack it up, unhook the exhaust and drop the tank in under and hour. Don't ask me how I got so experienced at it:rolleyes:
 
I must be a pro at dropping the tank. I can jack it up, unhook the exhaust and drop the tank in under and hour. Don't ask me how I got so experienced at it:rolleyes:

i got fast at it to. but now i can change the pump start to finsh in 10-15 min.:p:D work smarter not harder
 
I cut a hole under the seat to access the pump. The fuel lines run right up against the floor so if you are not careful you will nick them and have another problem. At the 2007 shootout on the dyno, I had the pump out in a few minutes. Dont think you can drop a fuel tank, no matter how good you are, in a couple of minutes. I am going to look into that harness after I am up and running again. I think I will need it with the new blower

Ken
 
Keep us informed on how the wiring goes. Looks like a cheap and easy alternative method to those who need more fuel.
 
I really dont want to drop the tank right now. Maybe over the winter. When I redo the rear end.

I wired up the front part already. Very easy to do, I placed the positive loop at the Linkable fuse in the main fuse box at the red battery side. I mounted the relay on the radiator support between the battery and the intercooler. Then I ran the negative to the negative bolt for the battery on the radiator support. I fished the power leads tru the firewall already.


I got under the car and was able to put my hands between the gas tank and the frame rails. There is a connector there I was able to pull it down, that connects to the body harness from inside the car under the seat and runs to the tank 4 wire connector. I think I will tap there between that connector and the sender connector. It cannot be more then 15" long from the connector to the sender, so I dont think I will experience alot of voltage drop if any.
I will fish the new harness wires tru the same hole that the main body harness uses to get to the pump from under the seat.

Whats the best way to make a weather proof connection there. I dont want it to corrode over time. Also should I just tap the redundant ground to the black wires or should I cut and leave the old ground disconnected.
I
 
Your best bet is to shrink wrap everything. You can get an assortment of shrink wrap that vary in a range of 1/4"-1" at Harbor Freight.
 
The kit comes with extra shrink wraps and loop connectors and tons of wire ties.

But no but connectors. I wonder if I should be Soldering it or crimp and wrap.
 
Soldering is always best, but its permanent. I am not sure of the resistance of the connectors, but since your trying to increase voltage, I'd say solder it so you can get the max benefit.
 
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