Cranks but not start

Engine cranks but not starts,I tried several times today with extra battery and starting booster connected,but nothing happens...

When I start,sometimes it feels that timing is too early,engine turns over slower few times and sometimes like it "hits back",and it does few bangs from exhaust.

Upshift light is on when starting,when I run starter a bit longer,light goes off maybe after 5 seconds and blinks synchronized with those bangs,sometimes when I turn the key off,same time it feels like it almost start running but no,only big bang again...

I try to take some codes out of it with sunpro ford code scanner,hope I read it right,first time Im using it,I run KOEO test 2 times,if I read it right I get code #24

Are a ACT- and VAT sensor same thing?
EDIS fault-failure in coil 1 primary circuit,not sure which one this means DIS or COIL problem?

Can bad balancer have anything to do with this problem? It has been doing things like this time to time,but untill today,every time before it has finally started at least with second battery and cables.

Hope that someone understand what I try to explain here,My technical english isnt too good.

Car is 90SC with AOD,just broked 200k ml. This is My daily driver,need to get it running pretty soon...
One more thing,lets try to keep it simple,thanks. (maybe its not possible with these cars...)

-Mikko-

>Upshift light is on when starting

That should indicate a problem with the crankshaft sensor. And yes, a bad balancer can be part of the issue. Check it to see if it wobbles or if it is loose, etc.

'No start' troubleshooting process could save you money by not throwing parts at it. From the information you've given, my guess now is to focus on the crankshaft sensor & balancer.

Code 24 is because the engine isn't warmed up yet...maybe - no way to tell unless you can get it running.

>EDIS fault-failure in coil 1 primary circuit,not sure which one this means DIS or COIL problem?
*** *** Use this SC specific code chart *** ***

• No stored codes?
• Have any spare parts?
• Know how to check wiring, grounds, connectors, etc.?

In any case, be sure to keep the battery charged up or you will risk including low voltage as one of your problems. Don't use the alternator to charge the battery up from low volts - this could lead to alternator failure.

Good luck.

Thanks for quick reply KMT,I read it right away,but time was over 4 am at the local time here,I was too tired to reply back...

I changed balancer today,it was clearly broken,when I get belts off the outer part of balancer turns just by hand.

Cranckshaft position sensor seems to be ok,but I wont get car running,still sounds that timing isnt right. There was a spark that looks little weak,and it takes couple seconds before it comes.

I have no time today to do that EDIS-Troubleshooting,I start for that tomorrow. I try to check crank position sensor by giving it 12 v at pin 56,when I crank the engine it gives only 1,5 v back from pin 33. Need to check grounds,connectors an wiring stuff also tomorrow,god I hate eletrical problems...

How exact is crankshaft position sensor adjustment,can it be too far from reluctor or is that gap too narrow for that?

I have some spare parts,I have new demon coil pack,not sure if its working properly because I tried it one time when I also changed 42 injectors,255 fuel pump an fuel filter at the same time. I tryed start the car 2-3 times and then I changed stock coil back just in case,but maybe there wasnt enough gasoline just that moment. I think I can get for another DIS to check that possibility,sensors are maybe more difficult to find,at least it takes maybe few days.

I also try to get better code scanner tomorrow,then I dont need to caunt those flashes anymore.

When I crank the engine upshift light is on/off by 2-3 sec periods,while its on and then it turns off and comes back again.

Can I use any lamp for that EDIS-Troubleshooting,or does it have to be a LED lamp??

Thanks,
-Mikko-

If the upshift light goes out then comes back on or flickers during crank then your crank sensor is bad. Change it. Adjustment is not critical, as long as it has a gap on both sides it will be ok.

Thanks Dave,I was thinking that that blinking upshift light means crank sensor problem,just need for reinforcement for that.

I try to figure that where I can get new crank sensor,dont bolive that it can be finded from shelves of part store...

Now I need to go bed,4 hours to waking...

Thanks,
-Mikko-

>Can I use any lamp for that EDIS-Troubleshooting,or does it have to be a LED lamp??

Use a test light that will respond to low voltage (3V~12V). A volt meter (DC 12V scale) can be used as well - even better if it has a peak hold or logging feature.

Did you make sure the trigger ring for the crankshaft sensor was also installed when you changed the crank pulley/balancer?

No problem understanding the time difference - everyone needs their rest. How is the weather there now?

i would say you either forgot the key or the crank sensor ring like said above . i doubt if it would be anything else , unless crank sensor is bad. did you get all the old pieces of old balancer out i had to drill and run a screw in to break all the old pieces off the crank

Thanks for advice guys,yes I install that trigger ring to new balancer,put that hole same direction with the balancer wedge.

I do get that broken balancer out in one piece,comes off pretty easy,only rubber part was broken.

I did find new crank sensor from Finnish biggest american car part store,I get it tomorrow because its now over 100 miles from Me,price is pretty high,$275 but its worth it because I need to get it running soon...

Up to that time I´m driving with My wifes -08 Vespa 250 Gts,that gives a nice ride too,and off course its black too,just like My SC.

Weather here in south Finland is pretty sad,temps are about 50 F at the daytime and 30-40 F at the night. Air humidity is over 80% and there was slighty raining today,but it could be worst...

Yesterday I also changed all tensioner pulleys,one of them was keeping pretty loud noise from bearings,plastic one was also pretty sad condition.

I changed stock JS pulley to 5% SCP pulley,winter is coming and I need some extra power that I can drive in that 6 in wet snow...

I desided that I wait tomorrow that I get a new crank sensor,if it starts running with that,then I check all codes and tests with better code reader.

I`m not sure was it easier to change crank sensor if I pull that new balancer out to get some more space to work there?

Thanks,
-Mikko-

This is from the members forum but since those forums are not accessible now I have posted it here for you.

XR7 Dave said:

As you can see, initially the sensor is buried and the bolts can't all be accessed.

First step is to remove the oil filter and plastic inspection cover. The one is an 8mm and the other nut is 11mm to hold on the oil cooler line bracket and then an 8mm on the stud underneath. Tie or hold the oil cooler line out of the way.

The bracket bolts are (3) 8mm. They are a little tough to get, you may need a combination of wrenches, sockets, and extensions to get them all.

The bolt on the timing cover just gets in the way. It's a 15mm. No worries here about taking it out, just re-torque to about 20 ftlbs after you are all done.

Once you get the bracket loose, go up top and unclip the harness, it's the two plugs hanging out on top of the cam sensor. It will pull out the bottom, just work with it a little.

Once you get the whole thing out, you will need a (can't remember what size!) very small socket to remove the screws holding the sensor to the bracket. Take careful note of the orientation of the screws in the bracket, as the holes are slotted and if you get them in the same spot on the new one, you will likely not need to adjust it (a good thing!). Once you have the new sensor on the bracket, simply reverse procedure to reinstall. Once it is on and the (3) 8mm bolts are snugged down, check clearance. Turn the crankshaft by hand until one of the vanes is engaged in the sensor. Look for clearance on each side of the vane. I used a flashlight, it wasn't as hard as it seemed. If you are confident that you have clearance, then the only thing to do is put everything back together.

Cheers!

David

Click to expand...

Mikko:

>I need some extra power that I can drive in that 6 in wet snow...

Fun!

>was it easier to change crank sensor if I pull that new balancer out to get some more space to work there?

I've done the crankshaft sensor replacement job without removing the balancer (slow work) - I just removed the plastic covers. You need small tools, small fingers and big patience.

I think it would be easier with the balancer removed, but remember you need the balancer (with the ring of course) in position so that you can adjust the gap at the sensor. When setting the gap, you want the ring to pass between the sensor triggers/arms when the engine is running. Any amount of gap is ok, as long as there is no conflict.

Be sure to position the sensor wiring properly - check that there is no contact with the pulleys and belts.

When the new crankshaft sensor is installed, the light on the dash should now stay off when you try to start the engine.

The photo below shows where the crankshaft sensor sits behind the plastic covers at the balancer.

If you check the engine codes and see any that are perhaps related to the cranskshaft sensor, you should erase old stored codes (make notes) that were saved in the computer and then test again.

Best of luck!

Thanks again guys,very good advice and those pics that Dave posted was very good information.

But hey,what about balance of my parts,BHJ balancer and stock crank pulley,how do they work together?

Aint that BHJ damper is just bolt on,My frend told Me that stock balancer has a weight plug that need to removed to new balancer? Or does it depend for manufacturer of balancer?

Can I get anywhere close if I just remove weights for stock crank pulley,or am I just asking for more trouble?

Thanks,
-Mikko-

The BHJ is a direct replacement - did you receive instructions with it?

BHJ is zero balanced when they manufacture it. I also put on a set of zero balance underdrive pulleys when I put my BHJ on so I didn't have to send out the BHJ w/ stock pulley to be balanced together. Also the 10 hp or so you free up with the underdrives was a plus.

The BHJ is a direct replacement - did you receive instructions with it?

Yes I did,but I think they are trunk of My car right now.

Mikko said:

Thanks again guys,very good advice and those pics that Dave posted was very good information.

But hey,what about balance of my parts,BHJ balancer and stock crank pulley,how do they work together?

Aint that BHJ damper is just bolt on,My frend told Me that stock balancer has a weight plug that need to removed to new balancer? Or does it depend for manufacturer of balancer?

Can I get anywhere close if I just remove weights for stock crank pulley,or am I just asking for more trouble?

Thanks,
-Mikko-

Click to expand...

The stock balancer and pulley are balanced as an assembly. The BHJ is balanced on its own. The proper method would be to have the stock pulley balanced by itself also but many people just bolt the pulley on. You do not move or transfer around any weights.

You probably will need to hone the BHJ balancer to fit the crank.

If I recall correctly, you don't absolutely need to remove the bottom plastic cover to replace the sensor. You might be able to get the screws with a deep 7/32", 1/4" drive socket and extension. That's how I did it. It was a little fiddly, but I wasn't in the mood to change the oil at the time.

Damn it,they send a wrong part to the local part shop,I get the right one tomorrow,hopefully.

I will take that broken sensor off today,there was only upper plastic cover that is connected with only one point to the engine,lower one is missing.

Actually it´s time to change oil again,so I´m propably take oil filter off. I try to get that crank pulley balanced tomorrow and hone BHJ to fit the crank.

...

I just call to machinery shop,they can´t balance that pulley for Me by tomorrow,they have a hands full of work,is there any danger to brake something with stock pulley in BHJ damper? I am going to order zero balanced underdrive pulley set from SCP before christmas anyway.

Thanks,
-Mikko-

I get old crank sensor out,it was an easy job. First I take a new balancer out and because I don´t have that lower plastic shield,then there aren´t anything on My way. I take a crank sensor off from the bracket cause it´s easier to do.

I let You know what happens tomorrow with new crank sensor...

Edit:
I take BHJ instructions from My trunk and read them,maybe it´s a good idea to sometime read instructions carefully before doing a job...

-Mikko-

SC runs again,started nicely with new crank sensor.

THANKS for everybody here,whitout Your advice it would be a way more difficult.

Feels like it runs a bit stronger than before...

I check if there is any codes in weekend.

-Mikko-

Thanks for the update, Mikko - hope your car continues to run well for more fun in the snow

Ken