front bumber removal help

R

ronl@ihsnet.com

Registered User
Worthless Haynes repair manual! "Detach the front bumper cover"
Duh! Everytime I try to do something on my SC, this manual makes
me sorry I wasted my money. I also loved the 12 paragraphs on plug color,
how to gap, but not a hint on how to replace plugs in the most cramped
underhood I've ever seen except a Porsch . . . . I miss my 63 Impala
sometimes . . . Should I remove some of the IC tubes or what? Grrr ...

Help - how do I remove the front bumper cover? I see some bolts and screws from under the car
and in the wheelwells- but I need a better explaination on the attachment points. Want to remove it
to repair a crack and repaint the front cover. The back one looks pretty easy, but I just can't seem to
figure out how to remove the front bumber cover. I know someone here has done this - I could sure use
some direction from a more experienced SC person please.

Thanks in advance

Ron
Latrobe, PA
10-16-08
 
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Have a few Rolling Rocks. ;)

Anyhow, I have removed my front bumper cover about 12 times. The crucial points are the two studs in front of each wheel. I believe they are 13mm nuts. The other main thing people (including myself the first time) miss when yanking the cover the first time are the tabs in the front center of the nose just under the headlight header. They need to be held down when pulling it off otherwise they'll just catch on the plastic. Kinda hard to explain, but those reading this that have done it know what I am referring too.
 
You have to remove the corner lights to get to the tabs and screws under them, too. Those tabs in the center are like barbs and unhook. The 2 13mm nuts on each side are a bit difficult to get to and there are lots of sharp edges to cut fingers, hands, and arms. I had to pull the fender liner out of the way to get to them but there may be an easier way if you hunt around. They are right at the top edge of the bumper cover on either side about 6" apart. There are also several phillips screws and plastic retainers on the bottom you'll have to find and remove.
 
Just did this yesterday so while its still fresh.

Remove both wheels.

On each side:
Remove the wheel well liner (5 screws, 1 large push fastener under the door frame, 3 push pin plastic fasteners. Pry the center of the push pin out about 1", then twist the base around while gently pullling outwards).
Remove the cornering lamp bulb.
Remove 2 11mm nuts where the bumper is fastened to the fender.
Remove 1 8mm bolt holding the cornering lamp housing to the fender.
Remove the turn signal housing (2 11mm nuts) and the bulb.
Remove the 5.5mm bolt holding the bumper cover to the fender
Pull the cover out and let drop slightly.

Pry the 4 plastic fasteners out where the cover attaches to the radiator frame.

Then reach in down behind the hood latch and pry the hooked "edge" of the bumper cover down slightly. Feel around some to figure out what I'm talking about. Work the cover forward and off. That should do it. :cool:
 
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Step 1) Buy a factory service manual.
Step 2) Set your Haynes manual on fire; bask in the warmth of the dancing flames.
Step 3) Proceed with your project with a newly-found clarity and confidence.
Step 4) Optional - Buy a factory EVTM and set of wiring schematics for the inevitible future projects.

FYI: These mauals are all over eBay at reasonable prices. After the first use, you'll wonder how you ever got along without them. I own a set for every year of MN12 (including 96 & 97).

Cheers,

JD
 
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Thanks - I knew someone could help!

Thanks - I knew someone could help!

AOK - excellent. This community, and SCCOa, are great.
When this one goes, I'm 'gonna get another, because I love the car, and really like the people here.

TXSC - sounds like a plan!

BTW: Rolling Rock is now made in NJ. They make Sam Adams here in the same plant . Might explain my spelling :)

Thanks again. A thosand blessings on you and yours ...
 
it worked!

Thanks . . . it's sitting on the floor, epoxys on the crack from behind.
Some screws where so rusty I had to grind them or drill them off.
Car must of been wrecked, there are crayon stock numbers on some parts,
and some missing screws ... but your advise - it worked!

Sweet!
 
ronl@ihsnet.com said:
Thanks . . . it's sitting on the floor, epoxys on the crack from behind.
Some screws where so rusty I had to grind them or drill them off.
Car must of been wrecked, there are crayon stock numbers on some parts,
and some missing screws ... but your advise - it worked!

Sweet!
Click to expand...

Glad it worked! Sometimes experiencing a little progress is enough fuel to keep us going. :D
 
Factory Markings

ronl@ihsnet.com said:
Car must of been wrecked, there are crayon stock numbers on some parts...
Click to expand...

These markings don't mean it was wrecked. More than likely, it means that it hasn't been. My all-original car has writing, stamping, etc. on the inside of the bumper cover, and I can confirm that it had never been apart before. I pulled it apart last fall to detail everything ahead of the core support, and found lots of markings, date codes, etc. I'll bet a replacement cover wouldn't have any markings (could be wrong). I can post photos of the inside of my cover if you're interested.

JD
 
txsc said:
After the first use, you'll wonder how you ever got along without them.
Click to expand...
I got along for about 18 years before picking up an 89 manual.. but you're correct, now I don't know how I did it :confused:

I've already learned 2-3 obscure things that have helped. For instance, my antitheft module is on the blink; the manual led me to some tricks for working around a no-crank condition w/o having to resort to getting out of the car. Its a bizarre routine, but usually gets it working so that I can start the car. :D That is until I can get around to replacing the module.
 
If you are epoxying a crack or split, I'd recommend backing it with some cloth of some sort for reinforcement. Plain epoxy will just crack again.
 
If you don't have the turn signal cornering lights option, now would be the perfect time to install them....:D
 
TbirdSCFan said:
my antitheft module is on the blink; the manual led me to some tricks for working around a no-crank condition w/o having to resort to getting out of the car. Its a bizarre routine, but usually gets it working so that I can start the car. :D That is until I can get around to replacing the module.
Click to expand...

Elaborate?
And are these tricks in the FSM???
 
Backing for epoxy

Thanks for the tip. I used a chunk of an old Topaz bumber . . .
Pretty much the same kind of material, and epoxied it way past the damage.
It's stiff, and now I can repair the top of the bumper. But that's a great
tip. The last time I fixed a flex bumper I didn't back it, had to redo it after a few weeks.
Haden't painted it yet, but still I learned the hard way.

Everytime I junk a car I take some items. The TBirds trunk
had damaged weatherstrip. A nice long strip from the Topaz was an
exact match and repaired it with just some 3M black. It's hard to tell
I repaired it. With 4 kids, it worked like a charm and saved me enough
to take 'em to Micky D's.

If I had the $$$$ I'd love to buy a low mile SC from here. Fly to get it, smile the whole way home!

Thanks again all.

Ron
FRI
PM
 
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