PDA

View Full Version : Removing the motor from the 89-95 SC



MadStang
10-18-2008, 03:50 PM
Hey guys, one of my friends went to the junkyard this morning to scope out the s/c motor he wants. He wants to know how to remove the motor effectively and quickly. The main thing he's stumped about is the motor mounts. He doesn't know how to get at them. If someone can direct me to a motor removal/swap thread that has already been created with the info I need that'd be great. I searched for a motor swap thread but didn't find it...thanks.

Mike8675309
10-18-2008, 05:01 PM
At a salvage yard, easiest would be to drop it out the bottom. There is a k-member the motor bolts to which is bolted to the frame with some big torx nuts. unbolt the shocks and the engine bay. take the bolts off the k member and have something lift the chassis off the motor.

Otherwise, motor mounts just have one through bolt each that you can pull out.

disconnect the radiator hoses.
Remove the intercooler and the intercooler tubes. (careful, they will easily crack if forced) Unbolt the trans from the engine. Disconnect the oil cooler lines. Disconnect the ground wires.Disconnect the down tubes from the exhaust manifolds. Pull the through bolts on the mounts and pull the motor out... give or take.

MadStang
10-18-2008, 05:14 PM
At a salvage yard, easiest would be to drop it out the bottom. There is a k-member the motor bolts to which is bolted to the frame with some big torx nuts. unbolt the shocks and the engine bay. take the bolts off the k member and have something lift the chassis off the motor.

Otherwise, motor mounts just have one through bolt each that you can pull out.

disconnect the radiator hoses.
Remove the intercooler and the intercooler tubes. (careful, they will easily crack if forced) Unbolt the trans from the engine. Disconnect the oil cooler lines. Disconnect the ground wires.Disconnect the down tubes from the exhaust manifolds. Pull the through bolts on the mounts and pull the motor out... give or take.

thanks man, he doesn't have torx wrenches so that won't do. As for the motor mounts. can you give me some more info about that. You say they're throughbolts. what's needed to get at them, and do you happen to know what size they are?

nwnsc
10-18-2008, 05:25 PM
driver side has a 2nd bolt to get it loose.;) they are ether 13 or 15 mm i can't rember. take the wireing loose at the pass. side fire wall, so you can keep the motor harnes. and you have a ground runing from the bat to the d.motor mount and 1 from the p.motor mount to the frame. and i allways wait till i start to get it up to get the knock senser. as i cant reach around that dam sheld.

Mike8675309
10-18-2008, 05:25 PM
Some pictures in this thread from replacing motor mounts. Nearly all the fastners on the SC are metric. most common sizes are: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm. I believe the through bolts are either 10mm or 13mm.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15555&highlight=motor+mount

nwnsc
10-18-2008, 05:27 PM
thats right!the thru bolt are 10mm and the 1 going down on the drivres side is 13mm

watsonlk
10-18-2008, 11:50 PM
Just pulled my motor for a second time and I'm pretty sure all bolts are 13mm head.

One thing I didn't realize though is the single bolt that runs down through the frame has a nut on the back side of it also.

It looks like it threads into the frame, maybe it was broken off before I got it, but mine has a nut that was hard to hold backup on.

MadStang
10-19-2008, 10:06 PM
thanks guys, I appreciate the help!

fly360
10-22-2008, 06:28 PM
Just pulled my motor for a second time and I'm pretty sure all bolts are 13mm head.

One thing I didn't realize though is the single bolt that runs down through the frame has a nut on the back side of it also.

It looks like it threads into the frame, maybe it was broken off before I got it, but mine has a nut that was hard to hold backup on.

The original has a nut plate that usually breaks off so a standard nut goes back on. If you have the nutplate and it breaks, use a scribe or something like to place in the rear hole to prevent the nut plate from spinning.