bolt removal issues.

1990XR7SC

Registered User
As the title says im having a problem removing my broken crank bolt. Like others have stated and ive experianced that when they brake they are easy to take out. But this one is being stubborn. Like it still has its torque setting on it. I tryed my easy outs but to no avail. I already have the hole drilled in it but im wondering if a reverse drill bit would work? also where can i find one? Thanks for your time!
 
You can try a LH drill....

Grainger, McMaster-Carr, or WT Tool should have some on their web sites....

I've never had any luck with easy outs.....:mad:

I usually end up splitting the bolt with a grinder and a burr.....
 
I've removed 3 broken crank bolts all the same way. Dremel into the center of the broken bolt and then hammer an easy out into the drilled hole.

A good Carbide cutting bit and some lubrication to spray on it while you go to clean the area has yet to fail my attempts.

What tools are you using?

-Tim
 
What exactly to you mean by "Dremel" into the center? -Drill the center out, then use a small stone or something to eat the insides out of the bolt?

I'm working on a similiar problem with a starter bolt...already broken an easy-out off inside of it. :rolleyes:
 
tim: i am using titanium drill bits on a cordless 18V drill. tryed the square easyouts to no avail. Im just afraid of wrecking threads by cutting into it. But like i said i have a hole drilled into the bolt so i possibly could thread a bolt into it and get it out but i don't think that will work. But right now im up for anything. Plus how has some of you guys taken off the broken part of the balencer? i know a few have said drill self tapping screws in there but i don't see how that would work. i know there will have to be some way to pull it off but i don't have a welder and kinda can't drive the car to one ether.
 
The best way I've found to removing the broken crank bolt (Last go around was my 3rd time) Use a dremel (the hand held drilling machine...) and they sell a Dremel Bit at Lowe's that is the best $10 I've ever spent - Bit # 9910. It's made of carbide and cuts great.

Just get on the middle of the bolt, and let it do its thing. I usually use WD40 to clean and lubricate the work area for it cuts like no other! The lubrication is used to clear the shaving and to keep the bit from loading up.

Once that is done use an easy out and it will twist out with no hang ups.

At Advance Auto Parts you can buy a Set of Easy Outs...its like a 5 piece set that has 5 different sizes...I beleive the smallest size bit works perfect with the diameter of the hole you drill. Hit it in the hole with a hammer so it locks in and then turn it out with a wrench.

Again 3 times and its worked EVERY TIME. It's slow work, but be paitent and it will work, and will come out.

-Tim
 
Plus how has some of you guys taken off the broken part of the balencer? i know a few have said drill self tapping screws in there but i don't see how that would work. i know there will have to be some way to pull it off but i don't have a welder and kinda can't drive the car to one ether.


I've removed the front cover and then worked the broken piece off on my last 2 episodes...here is a picture of the last balancer that was removed when the bolt broke...this same break happened again but I don't have a photo to show it...

untitled.jpg


I know others have drilled into it like you're saying...I'm sure thats easier. I personally wanted to paint my front cover since the dirty look of it was annoying me. The gasket set to re-install is like $30 for felpros...again just a time deal.

-Tim
 
sounds like more work than is nessicary. Is there a way to grind 2 grooves into the broken part and slowly pry it out untill it comes off? I don't want to damage the timing cover or remove it. Plus im working on unemployment pay so my cash flow is a wee bit tight.
 
well heres a update. Used a easyout on it and ended up snapping the easyout in the bolt. So im back to square one again.
 
well heres a update. Used a easyout on it and ended up snapping the easyout in the bolt. So im back to square one again.

Actually you're worse off..:( easy outs are made of very strong tool steel. it's brittle (as you found) but very hard. A standard drill bit won't cut into it.

Looks like getting that dremel bit may be your best bet, then work around the easy out hunk until you can get that to fall out.

Check this page for info.
http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/broken-bolts.shtml
 
yeah i have some of the dremmel bits from when i had one. Im prolly gonna chew the bolt around it untill i get that broken easyout out. so looks like ive got alot of work ahead of me. Also would a imbalance cause a balencer to break like the one in the pic?
 
If you used cheapo easy-outs, you may be able to drill through them, but even the cheap ones are pretty hard. Good luck on that!
 
yeah i have some of the dremmel bits from when i had one. Im prolly gonna chew the bolt around it untill i get that broken easyout out. so looks like ive got alot of work ahead of me. Also would a imbalance cause a balencer to break like the one in the pic?

If you installed a non-zero balance balancer, then yes, that's why it broke. If it was a zero balance balancer then it failed due to break down of the elastomer ring which causes the vibrations to not be damped, and instead imparted to the balancer leading to a fatigue crack.
 
Here you go...

It's the black plasticky ring separating the outermost metal ring and the rest of the hub.
 

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