Rotors

Funny you should link to that site, I'm a member there as I at one time owned a '05 6spd goat. I'd give up a couple fingers and toes to have that car back!!!:(

Well I won't be going with any of them right now. It seems that everytime i fix something on this car and get ready to buy an "upgrade" it decides something else needs to go wrong! :confused:

You know of any good cliffs in the missouri area for driving this pos off of?:mad:
 
Well I won't be going with any of them right now. It seems that everytime i fix something on this car and get ready to buy an "upgrade" it decides something else needs to go wrong!
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Welcome to the joy of owning an SC...:p
 
NEEDaSCbad said:
Funny you should link to that site, I'm a member there as I at one time owned a '05 6spd goat. I'd give up a couple fingers and toes to have that car back!!!:(

Well I won't be going with any of them right now. It seems that everytime i fix something on this car and get ready to buy an "upgrade" it decides something else needs to go wrong! :confused:

You know of any good cliffs in the missouri area for driving this pos off of?:mad:
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I hear ya, a year ago I did my entire motor, had to replace a spun #2 rod. I bought her busted up and had to do that first thing. Bored one over, new pistons, standard stuff, et al.

Now 10k miles later the new reman crank snapped, just when I started picking and pricing all four rotors\pads and an entire front suspension rebuild.

Needless to say that's on hold now, along with a cam and head work next spring like I had planned.

Oh the joys of my insanity...
Doing the same thing over and over yet expecting a different outcome.

They sure are fun though.
 
It's easy to get frustrated, keep reminding yourself that it's a 20 year old car. How long are parts supposed to last? These are good cars when they have good parts.
In my opinion just get the autozone, etc... rotors and save money for something else. Keep your wheels torqued properly and get some good pads and they'll be fine unless you're autocrossing or something.
 
XR7Kurt said:
....In my opinion just get the autozone, etc... rotors and save money for something else.....
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Napa is 40 a piece anyways plus tax so you come out pretty close, only like 20-25 more. dunno...i probably would just go with the napa ones but just curious.
 
only like 20-25 more.
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Well that's a lot to me. I've used the run of the mill autozone rotors on advice from a friend of mine and have had good success with them and Performance Friction pads.
 
I've had good luck with the napa parts as well in the past, just figured for 20 bucks more maybe they'd be worth it. I've never owned or driven a car with cross-drilled or slotted rotors. not sure what the difference in braking would be like.
 
Young-SC-Owner said:
The worlds biggest crock of ~~~~
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I'm also interested in the negatives of cryo-treating?

I am about to buy a used, un-turned crank that has been treated.

I've known many race motors that had parts treated with no issues, but not sure of improvement over-all.

Thanks for any info
 
XR7Kurt said:
It's easy to get frustrated, keep reminding yourself that it's a 20 year old car. How long are parts supposed to last? These are good cars when they have good parts.
In my opinion just get the autozone, etc... rotors and save money for something else. Keep your wheels torqued properly and get some good pads and they'll be fine unless you're autocrossing or something.
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I agree that these brake parts don't need to be super-expensive. I will say that there is a big range of quality out there, and I would never buy the cheapest available. Ford Motorcraft rotors are also available at a pretty good price, and you can't go wrong there.

If you want your rotors to last a long time without warping, there are three things you must do.

#1 - Don't buy $15 rotors and expect them to last.

#2 - Make sure that the hub flange is rust-FREE and flat. Any residual roughness on this flange will guarantee that your rotors take on a warped shape as soon as you tighten the lugnuts. And it will only get worse with time. If they are too messed up to resurface or you don't want the hassle, buy NEW hubs of a quality brand. Then check that the wheel mounting flange is smooth and free of corrosion. Also, smear a thin film of anti-seize grease or some other protectant across the entire hub flange and wheel flange. This will keep the rust away and keep those puppies flat. It will also make it easier to remove the rotors next time. Ford actually recommended this in a TSB.

#3 - Keep the lugnuts tightened evenly and not excessively. Don't trust impact wrenches to keep the proper torque. Always set it with a torque wrench in 3 steps.

That has worked great for me. It's well worth spending the extra time and money up front to avoid doing it again next year. And the brakes feel GREAT.
 
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