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NEEDaSCbad
10-25-2008, 09:37 PM
What do you guys think of these? Oem's cost 40 a piece from napa, autozone, etc. These guys are offering a pair a 80 bucks plus shipping of like 29 bucks.

Have you guys heard of this company? This is a pretty new seller. I went to the website and they were more expensive...i think.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__Ford-Thunderbird-1980-1990-DRILLED-BRAKE-ROTORS-FRONT_W0QQitemZ280277460735QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20Acc essoriesQQadiZ2865QQddiZ2811QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20Truc kQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItem?hash=i tem280277460735&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A836|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318#ebayp hotohosting

watsonlk
10-25-2008, 11:36 PM
I didn't find much on the web, but they look pretty good and some are happy with them.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246698

I think I would stick with the StreamCross versions for street, I need four.
I'm wondering what model you're going with?

NEEDaSCbad
10-25-2008, 11:53 PM
Funny you should link to that site, I'm a member there as I at one time owned a '05 6spd goat. I'd give up a couple fingers and toes to have that car back!!!:(

Well I won't be going with any of them right now. It seems that everytime i fix something on this car and get ready to buy an "upgrade" it decides something else needs to go wrong! :confused:

You know of any good cliffs in the missouri area for driving this ~~~ off of?:mad:

rzimmerl
10-26-2008, 09:30 AM
Well I won't be going with any of them right now. It seems that everytime i fix something on this car and get ready to buy an "upgrade" it decides something else needs to go wrong!


Welcome to the joy of owning an SC...:p

watsonlk
10-26-2008, 09:51 AM
Funny you should link to that site, I'm a member there as I at one time owned a '05 6spd goat. I'd give up a couple fingers and toes to have that car back!!!:(

Well I won't be going with any of them right now. It seems that everytime i fix something on this car and get ready to buy an "upgrade" it decides something else needs to go wrong! :confused:

You know of any good cliffs in the missouri area for driving this ~~~ off of?:mad:

I hear ya, a year ago I did my entire motor, had to replace a spun #2 rod. I bought her busted up and had to do that first thing. Bored one over, new pistons, standard stuff, et al.

Now 10k miles later the new reman crank snapped, just when I started picking and pricing all four rotors\pads and an entire front suspension rebuild.

Needless to say that's on hold now, along with a cam and head work next spring like I had planned.

Oh the joys of my insanity...
Doing the same thing over and over yet expecting a different outcome.

They sure are fun though.

sinhumane
10-26-2008, 12:35 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290265149256

those are the ones i picked up, havent gotten to installing them, need to pick up a set of mk8 calipers first to squeeze over the 11.7" monsters... had quick shipping, is a reputable seller, many high performance vehicle owners have purchased and are very satisfied with them. rotors look good, came with posiquiet ceramic pads all around.

NEEDaSCbad
10-26-2008, 12:50 PM
They sure are fun though.

Yeah, there a blast if they decide they're gonna work!:rolleyes:

Now another question, would you have them cryo'd? I was thinking about it. I'm very curious to find out how well cryoing really works.

XR7Kurt
10-29-2008, 09:52 PM
It's easy to get frustrated, keep reminding yourself that it's a 20 year old car. How long are parts supposed to last? These are good cars when they have good parts.
In my opinion just get the autozone, etc... rotors and save money for something else. Keep your wheels torqued properly and get some good pads and they'll be fine unless you're autocrossing or something.

NEEDaSCbad
10-29-2008, 11:05 PM
....In my opinion just get the autozone, etc... rotors and save money for something else.....

Napa is 40 a piece anyways plus tax so you come out pretty close, only like 20-25 more. dunno...i probably would just go with the napa ones but just curious.

XR7Kurt
10-29-2008, 11:42 PM
only like 20-25 more.
Well that's a lot to me. I've used the run of the mill autozone rotors on advice from a friend of mine and have had good success with them and Performance Friction pads.

NEEDaSCbad
10-29-2008, 11:50 PM
I've had good luck with the napa parts as well in the past, just figured for 20 bucks more maybe they'd be worth it. I've never owned or driven a car with cross-drilled or slotted rotors. not sure what the difference in braking would be like.

Young-SC-Owner
10-29-2008, 11:51 PM
how well cryoing really works.

The worlds biggest crock of ~~~~

NEEDaSCbad
10-30-2008, 12:10 AM
why? explain...

watsonlk
10-30-2008, 10:07 AM
The worlds biggest crock of ~~~~

I'm also interested in the negatives of cryo-treating?

I am about to buy a used, un-turned crank that has been treated.

I've known many race motors that had parts treated with no issues, but not sure of improvement over-all.

Thanks for any info

S_Mazza
10-30-2008, 10:36 AM
It's easy to get frustrated, keep reminding yourself that it's a 20 year old car. How long are parts supposed to last? These are good cars when they have good parts.
In my opinion just get the autozone, etc... rotors and save money for something else. Keep your wheels torqued properly and get some good pads and they'll be fine unless you're autocrossing or something.

I agree that these brake parts don't need to be super-expensive. I will say that there is a big range of quality out there, and I would never buy the cheapest available. Ford Motorcraft rotors are also available at a pretty good price, and you can't go wrong there.

If you want your rotors to last a long time without warping, there are three things you must do.

#1 - Don't buy $15 rotors and expect them to last.

#2 - Make sure that the hub flange is rust-FREE and flat. Any residual roughness on this flange will guarantee that your rotors take on a warped shape as soon as you tighten the lugnuts. And it will only get worse with time. If they are too messed up to resurface or you don't want the hassle, buy NEW hubs of a quality brand. Then check that the wheel mounting flange is smooth and free of corrosion. Also, smear a thin film of anti-seize grease or some other protectant across the entire hub flange and wheel flange. This will keep the rust away and keep those puppies flat. It will also make it easier to remove the rotors next time. Ford actually recommended this in a TSB.

#3 - Keep the lugnuts tightened evenly and not excessively. Don't trust impact wrenches to keep the proper torque. Always set it with a torque wrench in 3 steps.

That has worked great for me. It's well worth spending the extra time and money up front to avoid doing it again next year. And the brakes feel GREAT.