Over-Revving.....~~~!!!

NEEDaSCbad

Registered User
Cliff Notes:

My car started over revving last night while in park/neutral, it revs to 2700-3000rpm without any throttle input by me. It just holds right there, developed outta the blue. I hate this car!

Extended Edition:

Last night I drove out to a bar with a friend, car drove fine and acted no different then usual. When leaving the bar I was showing my new-to-me car to another friend. I started the car and popped the hood to show him the sc, then i tried to manually engage the throttle. I missed and hit the down-shift-cable (i guess thats what its called?), I ended up knocking it out of the tb arm/bracket. didn't realize that i had lost the retaining clip or whatever keeps it in that hole. I just pushed it back into the bracket and went back to revving the car manually. I then closed the hood got in the car and started to pull away, I noticed that my pedal was soft and then realized that my car was pulling harder than normal while in gear without throttle input. I turned it off and restarted it, the tach immediately jumped to 3k rpm. I then put it in neutral and it did the same thing. I decided to try and drive it a bit to see if i could figure anything out. It drove fine minus the high revving, until i got to the highway. when i reached highway speeds it wouldn't down shift or shift into overdrive. I got it home on back roads and shifted to neutral at every chance as to not wreak havoc on the tranny.

I started it this morning and drove to napa but it didn't over rev at all. However it still wouldn't shift into OD. I picked up a new tps and iac thinking that the over revving was caused by a stuck iac and people have recommended to change my tps for other reasons. I temporarily fixed my shifting problem by twisting some wire around the shift-down-cable and the tb bracket which had apparently disconnected. I got home and proceeded to change the tps and iac, I reattached all connectors correctly i believe.

I let it sit while the the silicone was setting on the iac(used very small amount between iac and stock gasket). I then tried to start it and it would start but die almost right away, it did this about 3 times. I then pushed the throttle and started it, it started again and revved high. stayed on but sat at about 3k rpm. Frustrated i took it to autozone to have them pull the codes. I get there and for some reason the code reader won't pull the codes. it doesn't even start the process. I try to start it again and when it finally did it was by far the hardest start I've had yet with this car. they GAVE me the reader to try on my own in the future since it wasn't working there. When it was started it again just sat at about 3k rpm. I got it home but i don't want to drive it for fear of causing further problems.

What the XXXXXX!!! The guys at autozone suspected a vacuum leak. This would probably be a good time to tell you all the other issues I've had under the hood.

-When i bought the car it had trouble starting on warm/hot starts, had to hold down the loud pedal to get it start.
-I believe the supercharger is about to shoot craps on me based on the sounds its making. at low rpms it rattles like crazy and i also have the "skid mark on the hood blanket which from what I've read indicates i have a leaky snout". maybe i just need to rebuild the snout and replace seals and change the fluid(if theres any left). :eek:
-car has been throwing codes since i picked it up, just haven't had a chance to have them read yet. SO i'm not entirely sure what the heck it is.
-my abs light and brake lights go off every other time i hit the brake.

There are plenty of other problems, none that could affect this condition tho. not sure that any of the above will either but i'd rather you have all the facts.

Some one help or show me a cliff to drive it off of. Either/Or...You Pick!!!

Thanks,
Seth
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You mentioned you replaced the TPS and IAC? Did you disconnect the battery and let it sit for 15 minutes or so to clear adaptive? Have you pulled the MAF sensor and cleaned it?

Are there any kind of mods on that car?

Frit
 
I did check the maf and it looked clean, however i didn't disconnect the battery. thats the 1st thing I'll do when I crawl my lazy-a$$ outta bed.:)

Any body else? Any body awake?:p
 
I'm not sure about the other issues you've got - but I do have a question for you - have you found a clip yet for the TB bracket? You said the car wouldn't shift into OD - the TV Cable probably isn't set right. Did you find the clip or get a new one?

-Melon
 
I'm not sure about the other issues you've got - but I do have a question for you - have you found a clip yet for the TB bracket? You said the car wouldn't shift into OD - the TV Cable probably isn't set right. Did you find the clip or get a new one?

-Melon

No I didn't find one. I "fabricated" outta a paper clip for now. I made sure that it was set in the right position and secured it tightly. It did drive just fine with it like that from napa to my house(about 5-7 miles of highway). It acted just find and I haven't touched it since except to make sure that my high quality fabrication was holding.

The only other thing different about the last two nights than the rest of the time i've owned it is that its been much colder. I don't know how or if this can be contributed in any way to this issue but it has been pretty cold the last two nights. :confused:
 
I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and restarted. It just idles a 2400 now instead of 2700. Any other ideas? I guess a vacuum leak makes sense but thats gotta be a huge vacuum leak right? :confused:

Could this be supercharger related at all?
 
I wouldn't think it'd be blower related unless you removed it when you replaced the IAC and TPS. There are a few vac. lines on the backside of the plenum that could have been pulled off by mistake.

-Melon
 
<div style="background-color:#869BBF;
background-repeat:repeat;
width:100px;
height:600px;">
Car%20flying%20off%20cliff.jpg
</div>
 
First thing id do is take off the air duct and look inside the throttle body. Sounds to me like the cable is binding or the spring isn't returning the throttle all the way closed. wait for it to act up, shut it off, then look at the throttle plate. gently pull forward on the throttle arm and see if anything moves. if its dirty in there, clean it gently with a toothbrush and some carb cleaner. if its binding. try to find where/why.

That's what i'd do. Who knows if its anywhere near right. :)
 
Got it all worked out. Went over to David Nieberts house and we figured out that it was the new iac that was causing the problem. Replaced it with a spare he had lying around and it runs as good as new.

Now i gotta go raise hell at napa to get my money back so I can do my sway bar links.

Thanks again david!
 
Got it all worked out. Went over to David Nieberts house and we figured out that it was the new iac that was causing the problem. Replaced it with a spare he had lying around and it runs as good as new.

Now i gotta go raise hell at napa to get my money back so I can do my sway bar links.

Thanks again david!


You're welcome...It was nice meeting you and I'm glad we were able to get the main problem solved.

David
 
lol, wish i had noticed this thread sooner.. my 95 was causing the same ruckus, and it would then proceed to idle like it had a cam with lift higher than the empire state building! changed iac, and good as new. glad you got your problem solved, and hope ya can make it to a kc meet or two ;)
 
No I didn't find one. I "fabricated" outta a paper clip for now.
If you didn't get a new throttle valve cable grommet yet I would highly recommend it. I bought mine from the Ford dealer, they are very cheap.
I burned up the trans in my first XR7 thinking it was a kick-down linkage.
 
Well the overrevving is definetly taken care of. however its still having trouble with warm starts. yesterday i got in it after it sitting for bout 15 minutes and it was another hard start. then when it did the pedal felt real soft like no resistance type thing. I left it running got out and popped the hood, the kick-down cable was kinked. dunno.... not sure how that happened. I unkinked it and it was fine again.

If you didn't get a new throttle valve cable grommet yet I would highly recommend it. I bought mine from the Ford dealer, they are very cheap.
I burned up the trans in my first XR7 thinking it was a kick-down linkage.

I will do that cuz the tranny has been shifting harder and taking longer to shift. i don't know why tho, its attached just like it would be with the grommet?

What else could be causing my hard starts? here's the thread about it. if there's any ideas pleas post in that thread for people searching in the future.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103211

plus I'm trying not to spend too much as I'm still wanting to conserve my money to buy your car...if you still have it?
 
Last edited:
What else could be causing my hard shifts? here's the thread about it. if there's any ideas pleas post in that thread for people searching in the future.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103211
That wasn't the link for the hard shifting problem.
Do a search/research on the TVC(throttle valve cable). It is not a kick-down cable. It controls pressures in the transmission and is adjusted in fairly small increments which is why rigging it up is not a good thing and may likely be causing shifting problems. It could be something else but that is definately something to take care of.
 
That wasn't the link for the hard shifting problem.
Do a search/research on the TVC(throttle valve cable). It is not a kick-down cable. It controls pressures in the transmission and is adjusted in fairly small increments which is why rigging it up is not a good thing and may likely be causing shifting problems. It could be something else but that is definately something to take care of.

sorry...I wasn't paying attention while finishing that post.:eek: I meant hard starts.

I will get that part from ford asap tho.
 
Back
Top