Changing Motor Mounts - HELP!

M

mduralia

Registered User
OK..I'm changing my motor mounts. Parts are on the way but I went ahead and got started. Had a recommendation to remove all the accessory brackets and do this from the top. Stuck on ONE nut on the PS pump bracket - bolt protrudes too far to use short socket and long socket is too long...any ideas?

Also, is this the best way? I've seen several guys "lower the sub frame" but looks to me like you need a special tool for the bolts on the sub frame?!

Finally, any advice for changing the xmission mounts, rack and pinion bushings and harmonic balancer would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
you need to remove the power steering pulley. Then you have room for the deepwell socket. Takes a special puller that it's worth buying, but can be rented as well.

The bolts on the subframe are E18 Inverse-torx. Autozone or such will have a socket for those as well.
 
I know of a few guys who have left the bracket behind the pulley off the car on re-install.

This prevents you from having to remove the pulley in the future.
I use a wiggle on a shallow socket but my stud may be threaded deeper or shorter over-all.
I never did have any issue, 4 times.
 
I have gotten the nut you are talking about without taking the pulley off. You need a long-handled flex-head ratchet and a deep-well socket. But it was a game of 1 click at a time on the ratchet. It's much easier with the PS pulley off. If you can afford to buy or borrow the puller/installer set, that is the way to go. You need the installer too - don't forget that.
 
leave all acc on remove bracket from head on the bolt behind ps pump/pulley use a good !!! swivel or swivel socket and leave it off for future repairs lift engine support with flat peice of wood or other material lift from corner of oil pan or bell housing.

remove lower ic tube for more room I do mounts both of them in 1 hr
 
mduralia said:
OK..I'm changing my motor mounts. Parts are on the way but I went ahead and got started. Had a recommendation to remove all the accessory brackets and do this from the top. Stuck on ONE nut on the PS pump bracket - bolt protrudes too far to use short socket and long socket is too long...any ideas?

Also, is this the best way? I've seen several guys "lower the sub frame" but looks to me like you need a special tool for the bolts on the sub frame?!

Finally, any advice for changing the xmission mounts, rack and pinion bushings and harmonic balancer would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Where are you located in Rock Hill?

I have all my birds (14) over at my mechanics shop in east Rock Hill....
 
mannysc said:
I do mounts both of them in 1 hr
Click to expand...

You gotta be kidding me...:eek:

How long does it take you to take off the high-pressure line on the power steering rack - without removing any engine components?! And then....do you have tomorrow free - I'll supply the plane tickets!

Well, I know you're having troubles...but be glad you're not trying to do them from underneath the car. That was probably the worst SC job I've done yet. :rolleyes:
 
DrFishbone said:
You gotta be kidding me...:eek:
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Lets put it this way; if someone claimed that they could do the job on my car that quickly; I wouldn't let them anywhere near it. The short cuts necessary would probably leave a number of non-reusable or missing fasteners.

DrFishbone said:
Well, I know you're having troubles...but be glad you're not trying to do them from underneath the car. That was probably the worst SC job I've done yet. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
It gets worse.. Try replacing the timing chain cover gasket sometime. :D
 
TbirdSCFan said:
It gets worse.. Try replacing the timing chain cover gasket sometime. :D
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Would you say that's worse than head gaskets? Doesn't seem like it'd be too much trouble.:confused: It would be a pain having to loosen the oil pan though! Is that what makes it so bad?

Actually I think the worst job I've had was replacing the auto trans TWICE. The second time was worse because I knew the first time was wasted! Had on only had to do that job once, the motor mounts from underneath the car would be the worst. :)
 
DrFishbone said:
Actually I think the worst job I've had was replacing the auto trans TWICE. The second time was worse because I knew the first time was wasted! Had on only had to do that job once, the motor mounts from underneath the car would be the worst. :)
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I've got the trans replacement down to about 5 hours... about the same as motor mounts. :D

The problem with the timing chain cover is it welds itself with baked on oil+dirt to the studs. You swear its going to crack before it comes loose.
 
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94soupecoupe said:
my motor mounts are on their way out. from what ive read doing them seems like an all day project.
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First time... certainly. Second time.. maybe. Third time, it's much faster. you end up know what tools you need, what sizes for the wrenches, and it just goes easier.
 
DemonSC said:
would it be possible to do the engine mounts and the oil pan gasket all at one time?
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To do that you'll have to pull the subframe or the engine. The oil pan doesn't have a gasket. It's RTV, and the only way to do that right is to remove the pan.
 
darn, looks like I'll have to live with the oil pan leaking till I have money to rebuild the whole motor.
 
DemonSC said:
darn, looks like I'll have to live with the oil pan leaking till I have money to rebuild the whole motor.
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Are you sure its from the oil pan? Frequently the rear main seal, HB keyway seal, valve cover gaskets, timing chain cover, and oil sender are the leak culprits. :cool:
 
>looks like I'll have to live with the oil pan leaking till I have money to rebuild the whole motor.

Sorry if I missed it - was the top end done recently?

Don't ignore the possibility that you're getting excessive blow-by (and/or maybe the PCV system is borked) and the lower end is being pressurized with oil being passed out wherever it can find a path... If that happens, resealing isn't going to gain you much at this point anyways.
 
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