View Full Version : Finally....

10-30-2008, 06:36 PM
Going for a quote for paint down in Worester tomorrow. FINALLY someone will at least give me a quote for the dang thing:rolleyes: I'll report back once I get a yes or no from them...and a price...

10-30-2008, 06:55 PM
Let us know. You can call my guy up if you want, tell him I sent you. Ricardo/Rico. Only talk to him there is an assistant named Chuck, he is no good to talk to. I am not sure if he will be interested in a full paint job but its worth a shot.

His name is Chris Hubbard Body Shop Manager.
@ Clark and White Lincoln Mercury, it now Dodge Chrysler Jeep.
His direct phone is 1-617-454-2934 or 781-894-9000
Newton MA

10-30-2008, 08:14 PM
I'll see what's up tomorrow...if not then I'll look into plan B

11-02-2008, 11:50 AM
Ok, well here's the deal, and I feel like I need more SC enthusiast input on the matter.

Went down to D&P motorsports in Worcester on Friday for a quote. After looking at the car for about 45 min in detail, I only got a rough ballpark quote... guess the number..

Give up?


He figured $500-$800 in materials (paper, reducer, hardener, paint ect), $2500-$3000 in the labor associated with stripping the paint, sealing it, primer, blocking it, paint, clear, wetsanding and buffing. And roughly 20-30 hours ($45/hr) getting the drivers side door fitted and that area lined up.

Now he was honest with me and couldn't give me a hard quote and recommended that he log his hours involved with fixing the drivers side of the car. So we figured worst case 50 hours, and went with the high side prices on everything else.

Now I'm not sure I'm ready to spend that much, as my budget was about 3k less than what he quoted me. A lot of you have seen the car, and know it's current condition so I'm stuck with a dilemma.

Do I fix what I have?
Do I get a donor car, with great paint, low miles?
Do I keep it looking the way it is and turn it into a track-only car?
Do I get a mustang donor and use the SC drivetrain?(much more aftermarket parts)

He basically told me that if I fix what I have, it'll never be 100% back to normal, but he could get it about 95%, and only SC freaks like us would prob. know that it was hit hard on the drivers side.

If I DO go for a roller, as a donor, it would have to be a 92-93 as I'm not a huge fan of the late model style, and I like the 92+ trunklid. I'd want a black car, and I'd like a back interior, without a sunroof, or something that I can swap my stuff into. Also, it would have to be a 5-speed. So right there, I've narrowed my choices quite a bit. I'd be willing to get a clean SC, for 2k and swap my parts, then paint it for $3000... assuming the total for everything would be less than $6k. Then I'd have a clean car, that was never hit, and have all my parts in it.

Need opinions of every sort here

Ira R.
11-02-2008, 12:20 PM
Hard top give an opinion without knowing what the car looks like now.
It's a whole lot of money though!


David Neibert
11-02-2008, 12:34 PM
I spent about $6800 getting mine repainted. That included some minor fiberglass work on the hood, new window trim, rolling the rear fenders and fixing a couple of dings on the door and rear fender where ladders fell on the car.

This was a full blown deal where the fenders, doors, hood, moon roof, front and rear bumper covers, trunk lid and all glass was removed. It took about 4.5 weeks.


11-02-2008, 12:35 PM
Thats why My dad, brother, and I do all our own body work. I think the sc cost about $500 and we had a body shop actually spray it. 5 years later sitting outside it still looks like the day we painted it.

11-02-2008, 03:58 PM
All the glass, trim, and moldings ect will be removed by me, and the bumpers and ground effects will be painted off and left off the car for me to assemble.

This shop does resto work and their work is some of the best I've seen, where they don't cut any corners. I understand that the price they gave really wasn't that far off, considering what they'll be doing and the end result, but it may be too much for my wallet to handle.

I'm plenty mechanically inclined, but when it comes to body work, I leave it to someone who knows what they're doing. Anybody can spray a car, but the prep and body work is an art and a skill.

11-02-2008, 04:32 PM
There is a problem with your car and that is that most of us has seen what the car went tru and will have little value to a sc enthusiast that would want it from you. It would be like if you sold the car as a salvage title. With that said, the car is not worthy of a 7000 paint job. I rather would buy a roller for 500 bux with no damage history and spend the 7000 to paint it.
Your car would be great race car with a $2000-3000k paint job, and gut it and do whatever with it, and if you hit a wall no big loss.

If you want a collectable item that will have value to someone else, then look for another clean car to put your stuff into it. Or buy another one with a decent paint job low miles. Dont spend that kind of money on yours.

Thats my opinion.

Still call up Chris and show him your car, and tell him your compromises, he is a nice guy.

11-02-2008, 05:04 PM
I guess I should state that no matter what paint job I get, even if the car was un-molested, I know that I'll never get my money back for it. The car, even if it was mint, with fresh paint is MAYBE worth 4k WITH the right buyer. Heck, I have that much between my rims/tires, and some bolt-ons.

An investment is not what I'm aiming for. These cars are getting old, and there is no market for them at all. What's in question is the fact that paint is going to cost 5-6k, and in the end, it's still never going to be perfect after the accident. It may have reached a point where I walk away from the SC community and part out the car in its current state and start with a new platform. At the momment, that is the road it's heading down unless I find a low mileage, mint condition SC in the area within the next two months.

XR7 Dave
11-02-2008, 05:26 PM
Any car can be fun, you have to decide what part of owning the car is enough fun to make it worthwhile.

You are pretty happy with mid 11 second performance from this car but if you bought something more mainstream, what would you expect from that? 11's from an Evo or a Mustang is bottom of the ladder, not top, and you'll find that "kids" who don't know chit from chinola are driving around in 11 sec Evo's and Stangs. So what would you do? Shoot for a 9 second Mustang? No matter how you slice it speed costs and you'll end up dumping the same amount of money into another platform as you are on your SC.

Will you be happy with that? Is it just a 10 or 9 second time slip that you are after or is it the challenge of going where people haven't gone before? The SC offers a unique opportunity to do things that haven't been done before. You can't do that with any other platform (unless you choose something weird in which case you're no further ahead than you are now).

It's easy to look at the other side of the fence and say "gee, they have it so good", but in reality the "fence" is something you construct for yourself. You have to decide why you like modding a car and what you expect to get out of it.

I decided long ago that I will never have the fastest or greatest of anything so I'm quite happy having something that people say "what the hell???" (in a good way, not like Knight Rider WTH?!?) You'll have more fun with an 11 second SC than you will with a 10 second Mustang unless you are just strictly after speed. If you are after just pure speed then that makes it all different.

I would not consider putting the SC motor into a Stang. That is just a waste of time.

I think you are selling yourself short on the paintjob. Do it yourself. You've done darn near everything else yourself, why not do that too? Believe me, I'm an ex-semi-professional autobody guy. It's not that tough. I've prepped plenty of show quality cars and it takes nothing more than patience and what's left of your 12th grade mind.

Do like Mark said, spend $500 on a couple tools, materials, etc. and get to work. It's easier than you think and you have all winter to do it. AND it will look better than you think.

Trust me, the car will be fine. The accident, if repaired correctly, will have absolutely minimal impact on the car after it's all said and done. Our XR7 was utterly totalled back in 1990 and we've put over 200,000 miles on it since then with no complaints.

11-02-2008, 05:50 PM
My point was that, the car itself is not a good candidate for a paint job of that magnitude. If you keep the car or not. You will know whats under it always. If you do end up spending that kind of cash on a paint job then atleast completely replace the left rear quarter panel with a new one.

I dont even think my car is worthy of that kind of paint job. My car is a New England car and even thought I have been able to keep it out of snow and road salt. There are better candidates from down south.

11-02-2008, 06:21 PM
Buy the stuff and get busy! I am sure you will even surprise yourself on how well you do and the feeling that you will have, the pride that youwill feel would be better than buying someone else's work. Like the Nike ad's, Just do it!


11-02-2008, 06:39 PM
Body work is not my thing. I don't have the equipment, nor the location to paint the car. It's also hard for a lot of you to judge the condition of the car at this point since most haven't seen it, or know the story behind it( I honestly don't think I've told more than 4 people what really happened). We're not talking about just painting it, we're talking about repairing the damage to the drivers side of the car. The damage has been repaired, but repaired by me, and I can honestly say that it's not right.

When I started the work, I was more concerned how the new dash fit against the a-pillar, as well as the door closing and latching correctly. I couldn't hang the door until everything was welded up, and once it was welded and the fender put on, I notcied that the hinge area is off about 1/4", which makes the ground effects and the fender need to be pushed in to get the body lines correct.

I'm not questioning the quality of the repair, and i know that its strong, solid, and safe. But as Ricardo said, it's never going to be 100% and while it might look great, I'll always know that it's not right and it'll eat me up inside.

Regarding the uniquness of the SC, that is what I love. Getting a V6, 4000lb car into the 11's is impressive. Yes I want the car to throw down some crazy times slips, but I understand that there is a lot more behind an ET. Having a cool street car, that can also lay down 450ftlb of torque is just as important.

Spending that much money in paint and body work isn't worth it for a car that'll never be right after it was hit. If the car was complete, then I wouldn't mind putting lots of money into paint for something I'd be happy with in the end.

I guess I'm in the market for a good roller, or a complete car. Now all you that have low mileage SC's.....cough them up!!;)

11-02-2008, 07:17 PM
i do this stuff all the time. what the car is vers what people want to put in them. it can be a hard. and paint cost a lot of $$$$! if i remember right your car is black. black is about the lowest cost of the colors. the candy red f100 i did at work was just under $7000 in paint alone:eek: personaly i would compair fixing the car(body work) vers swaping every thing in to a rolller with a good body and paint it your self. i you need how-to i can help. i have done for a few other members before. for me the only way i can have or do any thing on the SC is do it myself:rolleyes: but now i can take the whole car apart and put it back together agen:D and there is no such thang as a perfect car of paint job. i have tryed and have had some of the best find my mistakes. and found them on there cars too.

Ira R.
11-02-2008, 07:29 PM
Hard top give an opinion without knowing what the car looks like now.
It's a whole lot of money though!


You're right, an 11 second 4000lb car on the street is an awful lot of fun. So from everything you've said it clearly sounds like you need to start looking for a roller. It shouldn't be that hard to find one, just be patient. You have all winter now to get it done. In fact even if the roller isn't mint it would give you the opportunity to clean it up and really make it look good before you swap everything over. Using a body shop remains an option regardless of whether or not the car has an engine in it. Might be a whole lot cheaper too.


11-02-2008, 10:25 PM
Now I got the itch...

Did a quick search and found this. Appears to be very clean. Not sure if that's an original color or not. I'd swap out the interior for my black stuff. Something to think about for sure.... except its and auto:(


XR7 Dave
11-02-2008, 10:33 PM
Ya, if the car was welded up without the door fitting properly first then it's kind of fubar. I know how that stuff goes. When we fixed cars we always bolted the parts on and fit the doors, etc. first before welding anything for the very reason that you mention. I saw what happened to your car, you posted a couple pics of it before.

If you really enjoy the idea of an SC then start looking for a nice one to use. I think you could find a solid straight car for about $3000, you might have to go out of state to find it though.

11-02-2008, 10:38 PM
Ya, if the car was welded up without the door fitting properly first then it's kind of fubar. I know how that stuff goes. When we fixed cars we always bolted the parts on and fit the doors, etc. first before welding anything for the very reason that you mention. I saw what happened to your car, you posted a couple pics of it before.

If you really enjoy the idea of an SC then start looking for a nice one to use. I think you could find a solid straight car for about $3000, you might have to go out of state to find it though.

That just shows the inexperience of my body work skills. I was so worried about getting the dash to fit and the door to close properly that I never checked the fittment of the ground effects. Basically, the lower hinge area is still pushed in about 1/4". I could fix it, but I'd have to take everything apart again, and I'm assuming it'll be much harder to take the rocker and a-pillar apart now that it's plug welded vs drilling out the spot welds. Like you said, FUBAR....

11-03-2008, 10:28 AM
The only problem with 93 cars is that they use the later style braking system. If you ever wanted to run a super big cam then you will run into problems. Just something to think about. That car says its been restored. But charcoal is not a factory color and neither are those seats.

Be patient, it will come along. I think there is one with a parts car in RI craigslist you might want to take a look at. Its an auto also, but its a 92 with black interior and exterior.


11-03-2008, 10:34 AM
I've seen pictures of that car....looks like a heap. Plus it has a moonroof.


11-03-2008, 09:29 PM
looks like I'm taking a trip out to PA this weekend....with a trailer....possibly

Ira R.
11-03-2008, 09:46 PM
Now that didn't take long :D


11-03-2008, 09:48 PM
Now that didn't take long :D


well i'm looking into the details, but it's a possibility. Its black, a 5 speed, no sunroof, interior looks grey which is a bummer, but oh well. It's a 94, but maybe I can live with that... I'll keep you guys posted

11-03-2008, 10:02 PM
Nice. I though you didnt like the later style. It would be like getting a new car to you. Good luck with the purchase. I would put your carped in that car and if the seats are shot your seat would look great since it not really a black shade on the tweed its almost dark gray.

11-03-2008, 10:04 PM
not a fan of the later style but we shall see what happens