Problems after rebuild trans. M5R2

getblown

getblown

Registered User
I just put the brass syncrho set in the 1-4 gears and after driving the car for about a week, I noticed that shifting requires a crap load of effort more than before, what could be causing this?

Brass synchros and filled with ATF and after the notice of shifting problem, I added a bottle of lucas.

The only things that were changed were synchros and a proper cleaning.
 
I was told because they aren't the fiber lined synchros and there isn't material for the modifier to soak into, that it wouldn't do anything but smell.
 
getblown said:
I was told because they aren't the fiber lined synchros and there isn't material for the modifier to soak into, that it wouldn't do anything but smell.
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That is true. Are you crunching the gears or is simply more effort shifting. that might be the nature of the brass lined syncros. Does it get better or worse after a long drive.
 
ricardoa1 said:
That is true. Are you crunching the gears or is simply more effort shifting. that might be the nature of the brass lined syncros. Does it get better or worse after a long drive.
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It gets worse the longer you drive until it gets to its peak difficulty. I'm used to a cable shifter in my shelby which has more leverage, but just driving.

With the B&M its stiffer to begin with but I wouldn't say anything faster than normal under 2seconds per shift and not powershifting. If I were to power shift, I use force anyways and then it doesn't feel any more difficult.

My opinion is that it feels like the inside of the synchros are grabbing the cone on the gear to well and stopping it from sliding/lining up at all. The synchro cup and the gear cone should slide around within eachother while going into the gear until they line up and your in the gear correct? It just feels like the synchros are stopping the gear solid when the teeth aren't lined up.

I have noticed if I bring it up to 3500-4000rpm, it goes in smoother and thats where I got my conclusion from, but its just a guess.:confused:
 
If it gets worse at it warms up then you need to think about running a different fluid that would give more lube the hotter it gets.

I used the syncromesh oil from Pennzoil now branded Quaker State. And when cold its not too nice but not bad. But when its warm, the hotter it gets the better it feels. I had to used friction mod since I had fiberlined syncros. But the gear box never been better with this fluid. During the shootout I never crunched once, It felt like butter when it was extra hot.
 
ricardoa1 said:
If it gets worse at it warms up then you need to think about running a different fluid that would give more lube the hotter it gets.

I used the syncromesh oil from Pennzoil now branded Quaker State. And when cold its not too nice but not bad. But when its warm, the hotter it gets the better it feels. I had to used friction mod since I had fiberlined syncros. But the gear box never been better with this fluid. During the shootout I never crunched once, It felt like butter when it was extra hot.
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At this rate, I'll try anything, but I just double checked my high RPM smoothness and it goes in like stock in the upper Ks.

I'll try the syncromesh oil then. Thanks Ricardo.
 
Ah yes, I remember reading that post awhile back and deciding I was going to try that out...but forgot. Thanks for the reminder. :D
 
Well, the 1-2 shift got better on the trip home, but the other gears are still rough, should I give it a couple more miles?
 
ricardoa1 said:
yeah give them time to break in.
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So whats your "break in" period.

3rd gear has worked flawlessly since. 1st, 2nd and 4th feel funny still feel funny.

Side note: I thought fourth gear was straight back? I seem to be on a 5:30 to 5:00 when going into fourth gear.
 
I don't see that being possible unless something is bent. My transmission was realy notchy after rebuilding with brass synchros. Never did loosen up much in 5,000 miles. It was always tough to get in 1st gear when in neutral. I would always go into 5th then into reverse when backing up to get it to go in smooth. I have seen some posts that indicate a possible shimming issue for the slave cylinder. The problem being that the clutch is not fully dis-engaged. Disengagement can also be a concern if there is air in the clutch system.

Chris
 
I was just saying give it some since things were feeling better for you after driving for a while. Maybe the syncros need to wear into the shape cone shape it needs. Dont expect a miracle, chances are you its not going to get super better, that might be the nature of things, I have fiber lined syncros so I can only give my experiences.
 
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