fix those power windows

decipha

Registered User
for those of you that think its a PITA to fix your broken windows it really isin't. If I had known it was this easy I would have done it a long time ago.

first remove the door panel
remove the window trim, only 1 screw, you can pull both sides up and off
unbolt the glass (2x 11mm bolts) you'll need to put the glass all the way down then lift it up about an inch to gain access to the bolts
pull the glass up and tip it forward and it'll come right out.
i found it easiest to drill out the 4 rivets that hold the regulator in that way
i could pull out the assembly as a whole and unbolt the motor, but it is possible to take out the motor without the assembly, you'll need to get a 1/4" holesaw and drill a hole in the door, theres a dimple there already.

be careful when removing the motor, the spring will jerk on you and if your not conscience of it you could get a bo-bo.

anyway, unbolt the motor from the regulator, 3x 8mm bolts.
to get the cover off you'll need to remove the t20 torx bolt holding it on
you'll see the gear stripped in there, mine had nothing left to it, i used some metal filler to make a new one since a new gear from advance is $60 and the metal filler cost $3. The gear is suppose to be replaced every 10 yrs and since I plan on keeping my 4 sc's for many many years to come I figured this would be my best choice.

heres some pictures for the ignorant

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You working on an SC...?

Correct motor gear plugs ($8.00):
drm74410003.jpg


This has been written up several times around the 'net. Correct procedure (glass & winder mech. stay in place) - take your pick:

One thing to note is that the main gear shaft should be checked to confirm it doesn't wobble. Replacing gear plugs won't help if the shaft has worn in the housing and moves side-to-side.
gear-removed.jpg
 
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well crap on me... i didn't check out autozone, at advance though they told me they didn't sell it with out the kit... guess it helps to shop around.

either way... the windows work now so yipppeee.
 
good write anyways..

i never thought of using metal filler instead of the little plugs..

it'll be a while til that motor stops working now :D
 
I agree

It was nice to take the time make a write of this stuff!!!!

Also good of KMT to point out somewhere's cheaper!

Tom
 
...just remember that it requires unique motor assemblies for each side. The gear box is offset differently between left and right.
 
Did you do all of this to remove the window motor? Or were you doing regulator work as well? I just remove the door panel. Remove the speaker, Remove the three w/motor screws. May have to drill the holes for socket access. Unplug the motor and there you go. Takes 5 minutes. Just don't want people to think they have to pull glass and regulator to rebuild their window motors...thats all. No flaming here...
 
Did you do all of this to remove the window motor? Or were you doing regulator work as well? I just remove the door panel. Remove the speaker, Remove the three w/motor screws. May have to drill the holes for socket access. Unplug the motor and there you go. Takes 5 minutes. Just don't want people to think they have to pull glass and regulator to rebuild their window motors...thats all. No flaming here...

Ditto, thats what i did
 
yes let me correct myself, my car was broken into and the driver window was busted, i guess the theif first tried the passenger window and some how managed to break the clips holding it to the glass but couldn't get it out.

you can very easily change the gear without taking the regulator assembly out, i acutally highly recommend you don't as that spring in there is a royal PITA to get back in place, although I found an easy way using a pair of vice grips.

When you take the door panel off you'll see 3x 8mm screws holding the motor on the assembly, i'll take a pic when i get my door panel off my other sc in a few days to change that window.



oh and just an update... the metal filler sucked. I recommend JB Weld instead it sets much faster and holds much better too.
 
When I get an SC that has the busted clips on the windows, I go to the junk yard and pull a window from any 89 - 97 bird or cougar....

If you look around, you will find some that have the steel clips on them....:D
 
Yeah, I think the steel clips were a later model thing...I've noticed on the 93's I have that they have the steel clips. Seems like they worka little better.

As far as the gear plugs (I always called them gear pegs because it sounds funnier)...I just bought the correct size white plastic rod stock from ebay and cut little sections off the right height, then sanded down one side on each until all fit just right. I've fixed about 4 motors and still have enough for two more for $6.50! :eek: Besides the home-made look, they're the exact same thing, except a little stronger feeling (maybe just because they're new) I've heard all kinds of ideas for these, but if you want cheap cheap and near factory, I think this is the way to go.
 
I used lock nuts, i think 3/8's, work perfect, cost was 0, had them laying around:D
Metal doesn't absorb the shock of the stop as well. The nylon has just a tiny amount of give for when the windows lands. My guess would be that the larger gear inside the motor housing is more likely to get stripped or fractured now.

I cut off a piece of a plastic coated garden pole for one of my repairs a few years ago... its still holding up. I think I even tried a wooden dowel rod at one point too. :D
 
As far as the gear plugs (I always called them gear pegs because it sounds funnier)...I just bought the correct size white plastic rod stock from ebay and cut little sections off the right height, then sanded down one side on each until all fit just right.

Maybe the rod you bought was slightly thicker then normal. On my car I got all the plugs in the kit and they fit without sanding anything. It took some time to get them to all line up (quite snug) and go together but you shouldn't have to take any material off of a side. Probably doesn't hurt anything, but I could see them not lasting as long because they are slightly loose in their.
 
seriously, who gives a ~~~~ as long as the damn ~~~~ works be happy


I am currently a very happy camper. Oh and btw, it rained yesterday a quick stab with my index finger brought that window up in no time.

A+ for those of us who are power window crusing.
 
I dont mean to hijack, this is along the same lines... I just rebuilt my pass. side motor, and I have a problem with the black rubber strip on the inside (goes along the inside of the bottom of the window). When I roll my window down, it folds inward, and tries to go down with the window. This puts a good deal of stress ono the window, and it goes down slowly. What is the best way to fix this??? (I hope you understand what I am talking about)
 
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