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decipha
11-14-2008, 07:48 PM
for those of you that think its a ~~~~ to fix your broken windows it really isin't. If I had known it was this easy I would have done it a long time ago.

first remove the door panel
remove the window trim, only 1 screw, you can pull both sides up and off
unbolt the glass (2x 11mm bolts) you'll need to put the glass all the way down then lift it up about an inch to gain access to the bolts
pull the glass up and tip it forward and it'll come right out.
i found it easiest to drill out the 4 rivets that hold the regulator in that way
i could pull out the assembly as a whole and unbolt the motor, but it is possible to take out the motor without the assembly, you'll need to get a 1/4" holesaw and drill a hole in the door, theres a dimple there already.

be careful when removing the motor, the spring will jerk on you and if your not conscience of it you could get a bo-bo.

anyway, unbolt the motor from the regulator, 3x 8mm bolts.
to get the cover off you'll need to remove the t20 torx bolt holding it on
you'll see the gear stripped in there, mine had nothing left to it, i used some metal filler to make a new one since a new gear from advance is $60 and the metal filler cost $3. The gear is suppose to be replaced every 10 yrs and since I plan on keeping my 4 sc's for many many years to come I figured this would be my best choice.

heres some pictures for the ignorant

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/63/l_3dc975d9ad7240f3aab47c8523ab0f30.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/1/l_044c46afb0eb4eea97b0d76a4a3b6ff1.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/42/l_1c94aa81e9c64c76b90fd719d4274f46.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/51/l_4831117120d7411d84b602ebfed58f70.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/52/l_508c6fcb59ab4e5f813d0c4db61c08e8.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/30/l_1f8975db79cb4b0fad395fe2ec7c3dc6.jpg
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/51/l_7da23dba12fb412aad98ac796030bbae.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/54/l_7a44468ba48f440e9b97da2cb9f7b973.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/36/l_7551808b9a8d4b8bae0d16fe39a0202b.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/13/l_9b4b0dd907be4b25a77729eb7f2f9758.jpg
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/11/l_4dbe843b448c401ebfeea7c5557e7c68.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/59/l_2a3132cfbb8d4ed3bb68bb8034865007.jpg

KMT
11-14-2008, 08:56 PM
You working on an SC...?

Correct motor gear plugs ($8.00):
http://www.autozone.com/images/products/drm/drm74410003.jpg

http://www.autozone.com/R,1427852/store,2219/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm


This has been written up several times around the 'net. Correct procedure (glass & winder mech. stay in place) - take your pick:

http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/articles/Window_motor_replacement.html
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/exterior/index.html#
http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/Instructions/Window%20Reg%20Kit.htm
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=763640&postcount=6


One thing to note is that the main gear shaft should be checked to confirm it doesn't wobble. Replacing gear plugs won't help if the shaft has worn in the housing and moves side-to-side.
http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/Instructions/gear-removed.jpg

decipha
11-14-2008, 10:16 PM
well crap on me... i didn't check out autozone, at advance though they told me they didn't sell it with out the kit... guess it helps to shop around.

either way... the windows work now so yipppeee.

thunderkid84
11-15-2008, 12:50 AM
good write anyways..

i never thought of using metal filler instead of the little plugs..

it'll be a while til that motor stops working now :D

89XR7TD
11-15-2008, 01:05 AM
It was nice to take the time make a write of this stuff!!!!

Also good of KMT to point out somewhere's cheaper!

Tom

whiplash15
11-15-2008, 11:37 AM
I am not positive if they interchange, but Mark VIII motors and gear cases, new, sell for aboout $20 on ebay.

the-big-e
11-15-2008, 12:21 PM
You can use any window motor out of any 89 - 97 Cougar or Thunderbird.....

KMT
11-15-2008, 01:09 PM
...just remember that it requires unique motor assemblies for each side. The gear box is offset differently between left and right.

frdlvr30
11-15-2008, 01:35 PM
Did you do all of this to remove the window motor? Or were you doing regulator work as well? I just remove the door panel. Remove the speaker, Remove the three w/motor screws. May have to drill the holes for socket access. Unplug the motor and there you go. Takes 5 minutes. Just don't want people to think they have to pull glass and regulator to rebuild their window motors...thats all. No flaming here...

Young-SC-Owner
11-15-2008, 03:04 PM
Did you do all of this to remove the window motor? Or were you doing regulator work as well? I just remove the door panel. Remove the speaker, Remove the three w/motor screws. May have to drill the holes for socket access. Unplug the motor and there you go. Takes 5 minutes. Just don't want people to think they have to pull glass and regulator to rebuild their window motors...thats all. No flaming here...

Ditto, thats what i did

decipha
11-18-2008, 12:24 AM
yes let me correct myself, my car was broken into and the driver window was busted, i guess the theif first tried the passenger window and some how managed to break the clips holding it to the glass but couldn't get it out.

you can very easily change the gear without taking the regulator assembly out, i acutally highly recommend you don't as that spring in there is a royal ~~~~ to get back in place, although I found an easy way using a pair of vice grips.

When you take the door panel off you'll see 3x 8mm screws holding the motor on the assembly, i'll take a pic when i get my door panel off my other sc in a few days to change that window.



oh and just an update... the metal filler sucked. I recommend JB Weld instead it sets much faster and holds much better too.

Young-SC-Owner
11-18-2008, 12:28 AM
Use Jb weld

KMT
11-18-2008, 12:48 AM
11.14: metal filler
11.16: JBW
11.18: TBD

the-big-e
11-18-2008, 10:16 AM
When I get an SC that has the busted clips on the windows, I go to the junk yard and pull a window from any 89 - 97 bird or cougar....

If you look around, you will find some that have the steel clips on them....:D

DrFishbone
11-18-2008, 10:34 AM
Yeah, I think the steel clips were a later model thing...I've noticed on the 93's I have that they have the steel clips. Seems like they worka little better.

As far as the gear plugs (I always called them gear pegs because it sounds funnier)...I just bought the correct size white plastic rod stock from ebay and cut little sections off the right height, then sanded down one side on each until all fit just right. I've fixed about 4 motors and still have enough for two more for $6.50! :eek: Besides the home-made look, they're the exact same thing, except a little stronger feeling (maybe just because they're new) I've heard all kinds of ideas for these, but if you want cheap cheap and near factory, I think this is the way to go.

baturner0
11-18-2008, 10:56 AM
I used lock nuts, i think 3/8's, work perfect, cost was 0, had them laying around:D

TbirdSCFan
11-18-2008, 01:10 PM
I used lock nuts, i think 3/8's, work perfect, cost was 0, had them laying around:D Metal doesn't absorb the shock of the stop as well. The nylon has just a tiny amount of give for when the windows lands. My guess would be that the larger gear inside the motor housing is more likely to get stripped or fractured now.

I cut off a piece of a plastic coated garden pole for one of my repairs a few years ago... its still holding up. I think I even tried a wooden dowel rod at one point too. :D

mywhite89
11-18-2008, 03:25 PM
As far as the gear plugs (I always called them gear pegs because it sounds funnier)...I just bought the correct size white plastic rod stock from ebay and cut little sections off the right height, then sanded down one side on each until all fit just right.

Maybe the rod you bought was slightly thicker then normal. On my car I got all the plugs in the kit and they fit without sanding anything. It took some time to get them to all line up (quite snug) and go together but you shouldn't have to take any material off of a side. Probably doesn't hurt anything, but I could see them not lasting as long because they are slightly loose in their.

decipha
11-18-2008, 03:41 PM
seriously, who gives a ~~~~ as long as the damn ~~~~ works be happy


I am currently a very happy camper. Oh and btw, it rained yesterday a quick stab with my index finger brought that window up in no time.

A+ for those of us who are power window crusing.

Bacondoggy
11-18-2008, 03:45 PM
I dont mean to hijack, this is along the same lines... I just rebuilt my pass. side motor, and I have a problem with the black rubber strip on the inside (goes along the inside of the bottom of the window). When I roll my window down, it folds inward, and tries to go down with the window. This puts a good deal of stress ono the window, and it goes down slowly. What is the best way to fix this??? (I hope you understand what I am talking about)

KMT
11-18-2008, 05:18 PM
>When I roll my window down, it folds inward, and tries to go down with the window.

I'd check that the glass is clean and something such as tree sap isn't encouraging the seal lip to grab the glass.

Beyond that, confirm the gap is correct by comparing to the other window. Could be a warped door (ever wrecked?), missing fasteners, molding, bent channel, etc.

KMT
11-18-2008, 05:24 PM
>seriously, who gives a ~~~~ as long as the *** ~~~~ works be happy

When you alter the function of any mechanism such as a window motor, you risk altering the way it works when installed. You've changed the way the gear box is designed - to act as a 'clutch' - when the glass completes its range of motion as mentioned above. Who knows how it will react now if it hits an obstruction and/or when very cold - this could affect your or your passenger's safety. We're just looking for your literal neck - seriously :)

DrFishbone
11-18-2008, 07:40 PM
I dont mean to hijack, this is along the same lines... I just rebuilt my pass. side motor, and I have a problem with the black rubber strip on the inside (goes along the inside of the bottom of the window). When I roll my window down, it folds inward, and tries to go down with the window. This puts a good deal of stress ono the window, and it goes down slowly. What is the best way to fix this??? (I hope you understand what I am talking about)

If it's not just dirty, the fuzzies are worn off and the rubber is grabbing the window and folding inward. The only way I know of to fix this is find one that's in better shape. If you do try to clean it, make sure you don't scrub the fuzzy material off the seal...it'll stick for sure then! :p

DrFishbone
11-18-2008, 07:45 PM
Maybe the rod you bought was slightly thicker then normal. On my car I got all the plugs in the kit and they fit without sanding anything. It took some time to get them to all line up (quite snug) and go together but you shouldn't have to take any material off of a side. Probably doesn't hurt anything, but I could see them not lasting as long because they are slightly loose in their.

Are the replacement pegs a perfect cylinder? All I had to go by were some old ones that were quite possibly distorted.

I bought rod stock that fit the cups inside the big gear snuggly, but to put the metal gear inside that, there's no way that I saw to avoid sanding the pegs. When I was done, the pegs were almost "D" shaped and fit very tightly. But there are several ways to get the job done, and I guess we'll have to wait another 15 or so years to find out which is the best! :p:)

KMT
11-18-2008, 09:07 PM
>Are the replacement pegs a perfect cylinder?

http://www.autozone.com/images/products/drm/drm74410003.jpghttp://www.supercoupeperformance.com/Instructions/cam-install-pic3.jpg

Cut flat on one end, slightly crowned on the other, they are round when new and take a cam-type shape w/one side near flat shortly after being put into use.

KMT
11-18-2008, 09:08 PM
>If it's not just dirty, the fuzzies are worn off and the rubber is grabbing the window and folding inward.

Ah...good point.

DrFishbone
11-19-2008, 08:20 AM
Cut flat on one end, slightly crowned on the other, they are round when new and take a cam-type shape w/one side near flat shortly after being put into use.

Crowned so that the metal gear will fit I guess!:confused:

Anyway, I guess I "broke them in" before installation. :o I really don't see how you can get the full cylinder shape in there! Maybe the stock I have is a tad oversized indeed...

S_Mazza
11-19-2008, 12:11 PM
If it's not just dirty, the fuzzies are worn off and the rubber is grabbing the window and folding inward. The only way I know of to fix this is find one that's in better shape. If you do try to clean it, make sure you don't scrub the fuzzy material off the seal...it'll stick for sure then! :p

I think you may be able to get an adhesive-backed felt tape that might work to restore your existing seals. I don't know where to get it, though.

By the way, Dr. Fishbone, what is that avatar picture? LOL

the-big-e
11-19-2008, 01:24 PM
By the way, Dr. Fishbone, what is that avatar picture? LOL

I think they are mad DOMO's.....

DrFishbone
11-19-2008, 01:46 PM
By the way, Dr. Fishbone, what is that avatar picture? LOL

I don't know....:confused: I've never had an avatar that could be explained. :D I guess since Dave Neibert finally changed his, I can too. I'll work on that just for you Steve. :p

DrFishbone
11-19-2008, 01:47 PM
I think they are mad DOMO's.....

Whaaaa? :confused: I'll have to google that one.

DrFishbone
11-19-2008, 01:48 PM
You might just be right. Or all they all mad?

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/30/Domo-kun.gif

TbirdSCFan
11-19-2008, 01:50 PM
Anyway, I guess I "broke them in" before installation. :o I really don't see how you can get the full cylinder shape in there! Maybe the stock I have is a tad oversized indeed... I did the same thing and while it all works OK, I believe they are looser now. So maybe you just shove them in there tight and they deform to fit. :confused:

DrFishbone
11-19-2008, 01:52 PM
Back on topic!



Cut flat on one end, slightly crowned on the other, they are round when new and take a cam-type shape w/one side near flat shortly after being put into use.

KMT - did you take that picture? Do you really have to cram the new pegs in to get them to fit? Maybe I can get by without the sanding from now on. I guess another reason I sanded them was because I had grease on them and that made the whole job .... buttery. :o

I'll try to make some more like you're decribing next time and see if they fit.

DrFishbone
11-19-2008, 01:54 PM
I did the same thing and while it all works OK, I believe they are looser now. So maybe you just shove them in there tight and they deform to fit. :confused:

Possibly a(nother) problem with what I used - this plastic won't really deform. It seems to be a bit harder than the factory pegs. I opened one good motor one time to check it out and the pegs had a little bit of a "jelly" feel to them.

KMT
11-19-2008, 02:02 PM
>KMT - did you take that picture?

Didn't have to - found it doing research for the job and it 100% replicated what I found when I did two installs on mine.

>Do you really have to cram the new pegs in to get them to fit?

With new plugs, they just drop into place (rounded shoulders up), greased first of course, which helps hold them just a bit to the outside while you position the metal cam. If you set them all up just like in the photo, and then press straight down firmly, the metal cam will slide down into place. If you end up fighting it, check to see if the center pivot shaft is loose in the cover...if so, it can foul alignment, and you might never get them and the cam in place. If that shaft is loose, you'll have to replace the housing, at least...maybe another assembly.

>I'll try to make some more like you're describing next time and see if they fit.

I'm all for DIY, but with new ones so cheap, why not just get them, do the job right and be done :)

DrFishbone
11-19-2008, 03:54 PM
But why just DIY when you can MIY (Make It Yourself)!! :D

Those would be one of the cheaper fixes to be done "the right way" but still, when you've got about 3 or more cars that need it done $8 x 6 = $48 Plus it saves a trip into the autoparts store, etc. :) There's just something about making the parts that brings the ultimate satisfaction. I imagine that Mannysc is a happy man when he's choppin', weldin', invertin', and whateverin' all the SC parts that he does and has done. I'm not that talented, so I'll stick to homemade plastic stuff. :D

toronto_1990sc
07-23-2009, 08:29 AM
just finished replacing my regulators.. mine had totally disintegrated. . the first motor took some time...the second..a snap!.

tip:

to get the regulators in, first put in 2...then put the cam gear thingy in and press down just a bit...align the 3rd regulator just above it's hole and press down on the cam so the 3rd regulator is sandwiched but not in...use adjustable wrench or big pliers to clamp the cam gear thingy and gear wheel together thus pressing down the 3rd regulator....careful it doesn't fly across the driveway! (oops). but before it's pressed tight fill the inside with grease.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/tenchrun/DSC00869.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/tenchrun/DSC00870.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/tenchrun/DSC00871.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/tenchrun/DSC00872.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/tenchrun/DSC00873.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/tenchrun/DSC00874.jpg

Mike8675309
07-23-2009, 09:22 PM
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/tenchrun/DSC00874.jpg

Are you missing a cover plate there? There should be a cover plate that has a lip seal on it so the grease isn't visible like that when installed.

91cougar
07-23-2009, 09:37 PM
lol,
The grease is pretty though.

DrFishbone
07-24-2009, 07:28 AM
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/tenchrun/DSC00870.jpg



Looks like cereal. Hmm, I think I'm going to go get some for myself. ;)

Ira R.
07-24-2009, 10:15 AM
So I just replaced the motor in the driver's door and the whole thing didn't take but 30 minutes or so. Everything cam apart, fit in, and went back together quite easily.

But my problem now is I can't get the door panel back on completely. Damn 1995 panels have all those clips and I just can't get the panel lined up right for them all to snap in. So my 30 minute job technically is now on day 3.

Ira

toronto_1990sc
07-25-2009, 12:31 PM
Are you missing a cover plate there? There should be a cover plate that has a lip seal on it so the grease isn't visible like that when installed.

yeah there is a cover but i didn't photograph it.

toronto_1990sc
07-25-2009, 12:32 PM
So I just replaced the motor in the driver's door and the whole thing didn't take but 30 minutes or so. Everything cam apart, fit in, and went back together quite easily.

But my problem now is I can't get the door panel back on completely. Damn 1995 panels have all those clips and I just can't get the panel lined up right for them all to snap in. So my 30 minute job technically is now on day 3.

Ira

yeah i found the passenger door tricker than the drivers side...but mines a '90 and is all plastic hook and holes...dunno about yours..keep at it!

n1sniper
04-24-2010, 09:43 PM
I replaced those damn little cog thingies about a year ago .. got the ones from autozone ... and just had to do it again .. what gives ?

S_Mazza
04-24-2010, 09:53 PM
They might be getting overstressed because of excessive friction on the window. The felt in the channels may be getting worn out. New felt would be the real solution, although sone good silicone lube can keep the windows working.

Bacondoggy
04-24-2010, 10:47 PM
S_Mazza! been a while! I haven't been on here in a long time!

As far as replacing the cog, I would have to agree with S_Mazza. I ran into a problem right now with my window not working (pressing the button you hear nothing). If that is the case, the brushes inside could be worn, not making proper contact with each other. This dissapointed me, ans I went with rebuilding the cog, but didn't realize the brushes were so worn. Otherwise I would have bit the bullet and got a remanufactured one. I also have issues with my felt being worn off. Do you have to get new stripping, or if you take the old ones of, can you take them somewhere to have them re-felted or whatever?

S_Mazza
04-25-2010, 01:43 AM
Hi there, Bacondoggy! What's up? Hope all is well.

For the felt, I don't know of any places re-felting parts ... that doesn't mean they aren't out there, though. New parts from Ford would be best if available (haven't looked). But you can buy felt tape or "moleskin", which could help, as long as there is enough space to install it without squeezing the window too tightly.

http://www.empirepao.com/
http://www.tintprotector.com/

Tory Smith
09-23-2010, 04:30 PM
I just did this repair on my 90 and it went smooth. I had both windows fail. Now they work in time for winter. ha ha. I got the parts from Kragen, or soon to be O'Rileys. They are in the "help" isle. Probably only took about 15 min per side.