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View Full Version : Ash Tray Switch Plate - Feeler



Mike8675309
11-23-2008, 03:05 PM
Is Anyone interested in a plate that fits in the ash tray that can be used to mount switches? I'm working on getting one made that will fit on top similar to the ones shown in this thread (made by Darkside and Kurt K):
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44779

I'm making one for myself, but since it is getting programmed into machine, I could get more made for material costs. The main material I have access to is stainless steel. I could have it done in aluminum, but the inexpensive material I have access to is kind of thick.

Shooting for a unit cost under $25 shipping included.

I'll be able to have the holes for the switches pre-cut or leave it blank. I'll include the stainless steel fasteners to hold it down.

I hope to have some test pieces yet this week but for now I just want to gauge interest.

90MN12
11-23-2008, 03:23 PM
i'm down for one for sure.

SCTbird
11-23-2008, 05:06 PM
+1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

nanatothesixth
11-23-2008, 05:32 PM
i would be interested in 1 also!

fturner
11-23-2008, 06:50 PM
I'd be interested if your willing to ship to Canada.

Could you set it up that 4 holes are set up, but have some kind of blank or something that can fill them in until its used?

Frit

Mike8675309
11-24-2008, 11:10 PM
I've done some research today and finding blanks may be a challenge. Also cutting the rectangular slots could be an issue. So far I know I can find blanks for a switch like found here http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html in the 0.830" x 1.45" supported hole size.

Now the switches I have were from AutoZone and they are .4375" x 1.125" and from looking around I've found at least 3 or 4 other switch dimensions called "standard" by the manufacturers. The .830" x 1.45" (21.08mm x 36.83mm) size is the one I feel is the most common. This is a full size rocker.
(some info here: http://www.carlingtech.com/products/switches/learn_more.asp?page=switches_switch-type)


So I guess I can supply blanks if the size ends up being cut. That may add some cost for the blanks. Alternatively, you could just put switches in there for later wiring.

For fastening the plate down, it looks like removal of the console will be required to put nuts on the back of any screws used. (nyloc nuts will be used) For the fasteners themselves, do folks prefer the rounded top type like in the pictures in thread above, or something more like this, which would be raised up a bit more:
http://tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:aes7ty5vFihrGM:http://www.nutsboltswashersindia.com/Images/hex-socket-head-cap-screwes.jpg

The goal is to get this so it is light enough and can easily be sent 1st class US mail international, which should keep costs reasonable to Canada.

The first attempt on the machine didn't work out quite right today, so we'll try again tomorrow. Should be nailed down in the next week or so, then I'll be able to figure actual costs.

after all that:
To Do:
Determine fastener type preferred.... found a good picture.. pick a style, all fasteners will be stainless steel.
http://www.steedmusclebike.com/tech_tips/tech4/bolts_cdef.jpg
Determine hole size to punch for switches.
Find if blanks are available for hole size chosen.

Toms-SC
11-25-2008, 12:41 AM
Count me in too.

Motohead
11-25-2008, 05:04 PM
Ill Take 2 please

Mike8675309
11-25-2008, 09:32 PM
Here are the first round of prototypes. These were done in a galvanized steel with a coating to promote paint adhesion. Some work still to do. Feedback is appreciated. Once I get this finalized I'll start a new thread for the purchase and details. Costs should be able to be kept under $25 easily.

If you're thinking of painting such a panel to match your plastic console, you'd want this type of metal rather than Stainless Steel. Note the switch size, and hole size are a bit small for most typical switches. This is an example.
http://media.motortopia.com/files/cars/album_switch_plates/492ca293b4afa/tn_full_twoslotsjpg_Thumbnail1.jpg (http://www.motortopia.com/photos/349102)
http://media.motortopia.com/files/cars/album_switch_plates/492ca28645ed4/tn_full_fourslotsjpg_Thumbnail1.jpg (http://www.motortopia.com/photos/349100)
http://media.motortopia.com/files/cars/album_switch_plates/492ca28d0d53b/tn_full_threeslotsjpg_Thumbnail1.jpg (http://www.motortopia.com/photos/349101)

Here is an example of fitment issues I am still working on. I'm figuring I have one or two more generations to get this dialed in. I'll likely have them made .030 oversized and then use a belt sander to smooth it to fit tight.

http://media.motortopia.com/files/cars/album_switch_plates/492ca261b31e7/tn_full_Adjustment1jpg_Thumbnail1.jpg (http://www.motortopia.com/photos/349096)
http://media.motortopia.com/files/cars/album_switch_plates/492ca26e8d2e6/tn_full_Adjustment2jpg_Thumbnail1.jpg (http://www.motortopia.com/photos/349097)

One idea I and a buddy came up with is a plate below the ash tray area. This would be one design (using a 1/4" black plastic plate) idea if folks are interested. An alternative of this would be a more solid plate, then set a piece of stainless steel as a insert that would be on the inside of the loop. Ignore the holes, as those were for my original plate that was bolted in.

here is an example of that
http://media.motortopia.com/files/cars/album_switch_plates/492ca27679bec/tn_full_BelowAlternativejpg_Thumbnail1.jpg (http://www.motortopia.com/photos/349098)
http://media.motortopia.com/files/cars/album_switch_plates/492ca27d8ddea/tn_full_BelowAlternative2jpg_Thumbnail1.jpg (http://www.motortopia.com/photos/349099)

and yes, my console has the one plastic extension for the cover broken off on the left side. to fit this, you do need to remove the rubber bumpers that are under the leading edge of the ash tray area.

SCTbird
11-27-2008, 08:41 AM
I think I like the plastic one better. Then I can put in my own switches. All I have do to is drill out the holes for it.

Mike8675309
11-27-2008, 01:02 PM
I think I like the plastic one better. Then I can put in my own switches. All I have do to is drill out the holes for it.

the issues with the plastic are:

#1- It has to go on the bottom of the panel as it is too thick to go on top. (in the picture it is on the bottom)
#2 - Some bolts will still be necessary to hold the panel if it's on the bottom otherwise it will fall. There are clips in the console panel on the bottom that the plastic fits in, but they don't hold it tight. The clips are designed to support the ash tray, not hold anything in place.

All plates will be available as blanks if folks want to just make their own holes. The only issue I've seen with switches that use a round hole, is that a large amount of the switch is then above the plate. This might interfere with closing the ash tray lid.

I hope to have a final design by the middle of next week.

fturner
11-27-2008, 01:17 PM
I like the plate from the top as it'll look cleaner I think. As for screws, I'd like the C one if your able to counter sink it, but if not E would work.

Don't worry about the blanks. You had a good idea about putting in a switch even if its not used right away.

Also, making it paintable is good as I'd like to paint mine to match my console.

Great work

Frit

ps, now if you could put a rectangular hole so when I get the Pegasus installed in my car I can plug my laptop into there via a USB port :D that would be just way cool.

XxSlowpokexX
11-27-2008, 02:26 PM
94-95? and countersunk would look best

Mike8675309
11-27-2008, 03:11 PM
I don't have a 94/95 to test fit. I'll see if anyone local has one I can borrow. At least one of the SC parters lives close.

I'd prefer to have you guy drill your own holes for mounting the plate but I'll check and see if we could counter sink these easily. If I'm gonna put the holes in the plate, I'll likely place them centered on the slots that are cut.

Give me an example for a usb hole size and I'll see if it can be done. The machine making these is huge, and typically used for making panels for huge multi-ton portable A/C and Heating systems.

fturner
11-27-2008, 08:31 PM
I was kidding with the usb hole. I'll probably just leave the usb cable in the glove box ;).

Frit

Mike8675309
12-09-2008, 01:47 PM
Got tied up with holiday activities and vacations. Round 3 to finalize the design is being done today or tomorrow so I should have a look at it and final pictures and cost this week. This for the 89-93 designs.

I have a line on later model panels to model, but that will need to wait until after the 1st of the year. Too busy now.

Mike8675309
12-20-2008, 07:45 PM
I have started a new thread with lower prices. For information on how to buy these, see here:
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?p=789274#post789274