if you are doing this more for a daily driver than anything else then those gears might be ok, otherwise you might wan something more aggresive (the early years auto have 3.27s) so a trip to the junk yard is a cost effective. also a big thing will be doing your heads, talk to dave dalke about that. if you are already gonna have your heads off might as well get them done. also opening up your manifolds or some sort of headers is always a plus. the other big one is your radiator and harmonic balancer. while these arent really power adders they are a big way power supporters and usually a problem on these cars eventually. another biggie is a tune, this cannot be stressed enough. other than that it is just a "lets see what is gonna break next" scenario... there is a list of things that you are gonna end up getting along the way that wont ever be in your budget that start adding up.
Go with 42# injectors minimal, and a 255lph FI fuel pump.
What you do with the IC is going to dictate how much boost and OD you can run. If your sticking with a single IC with a fan, then a ported blower with coated rotors OD'd at 5% should get you about 14psi with a mild cam and good exhaust. Any more than that and your wasting your time as your timing will be pulled hard and you'll leave alot of power on the table.
My car (auto) made 247rwhp at 4500rpm's and 318rwtrq and was leaving power on the table because my IC was partially plugged from the coating of the rotors, the blower's efficiency was down as well because of the lack of coating, and I have a very crappy exhaust. A mild cam alone netted me roughly 30 rwhp, and possibly more if I fix up the other issues.
With some head work I should be around the 300rwhp mark hopefully and be able to run 10%OD through a single IC to maintain 14psi.
Right now, you need to really think about where you want to take the car in the future and slowly work toward that. For instance, I would stick with the stock 2.73 rear end in that car and focus on the engine making more power (jeez. where did I hear that from ).
Of course, get the car tuned......
Frit
hows this so far.
long block .10 bore
$2334.99
c&l 76mm maf, 75mm throttle body, 3inch air system kit
$588
copm cam stage 1
$350
38lbs injectors
$301
190lph fuel pump
$106
solid rubber motor mounts
$90
replacement rad hoses
$80
oem water pump
$70
5% od jackshaft aluminum pulley kit
$126
scp 8inch high flow ic fan
$70
already have 10% od for sc, getting rebuilt and port sc for $665, no cats to res to 2 flowmasters(2 chamber). spec stage 2 clutch, 3.08 rear end.
Am i missing anything?
You will need another boost pump to get enought fuel up to the engine. Most people think a 255 is plenty,WRONG... You will find that at wot you will be going lean. Once you start to run those bigger injectors you will find that you are going lean at top end if you are racing...
The second thing is to make sure you have a bigger wire feeding the pump. This is something that has been talked about a few times as well. Good luck and have fun........Rich
You will need another boost pump to get enought fuel up to the engine. Most people think a 255 is plenty,WRONG... You will find that at wot you will be going lean. Once you start to run those bigger injectors you will find that you are going lean at top end if you are racing...
The second thing is to make sure you have a bigger wire feeding the pump. This is something that has been talked about a few times as well. Good luck and have fun........Rich
the hp rating from the factory is 210hp. so by theory, i have highflow racing cats, 2.25" dual exhaust, flowmaster 80 series muffler (dual inlet/outlet), taylor spiro core race wires, and a k&n cold air intake, i should be making at least an additional 35 more hp and 20 more ft/lbs torque. the engine interals are completely stock. correct me if i am wrong, then point me in the right direction if i am mistaken.