225+rwhp

slowpoke

Registered User
The turn of the new year my resolution is to rebuild the motor and repaint the car. If your engine has over 225+hp to the rear tires plz share the parts and extras info. Im not 1 into making it pretty just effective. Although pretty is nice.
 
I have a comp cams stage 1 cam from SCP (main goal was to make a fast daily driven car, still wish I went with the stage 2 or something bigger), ported 94 blower and inlet (I ported it, first time porting anything) and coated GTP rotors with a 10% pulley, this setup makes 17psi. I have a 75mm professional products polished throttle body, 76mm MAF with purple sampling tube, and 42lb injectors are all that's done to the motor. I also have a base tune from Frit (fturner). I got the resonator taken out and replaced with a straight pipe and ported the exhaust manifolds. Stock IC, stock rotating assembly, bunch of stock stuff. Car made 250rwhp, and 361rwtq in 90 degree and humid weather AND I drove the car an hour to get to the dyno shop. Car is a 5 speed.

I have less than $1000 in performance parts in the car.

This winter I am doing a FMIC setup, 3.27 gears, and meth injection. Once it's retuned should be good for over 300rwhp.
 
Last edited:
plan 1-c

hows this so far.

long block .10 bore
$2334.99
c&l 76mm maf, 75mm throttle body, 3inch air system kit
$588
copm cam stage 1
$350
38lbs injectors
$301
190lph fuel pump
$106
solid rubber motor mounts
$90
replacement rad hoses
$80
oem water pump
$70
5% od jackshaft aluminum pulley kit
$126
scp 8inch high flow ic fan
$70

already have 10% od for sc, getting rebuilt and port sc for $665, no cats to res to 2 flowmasters(2 chamber). spec stage 2 clutch, 3.08 rear end.
Am i missing anything?
 
if you are doing this more for a daily driver than anything else then those gears might be ok, otherwise you might wan something more aggresive (the early years auto have 3.27s) so a trip to the junk yard is a cost effective. also a big thing will be doing your heads, talk to dave dalke about that. if you are already gonna have your heads off might as well get them done. also opening up your manifolds or some sort of headers is always a plus. the other big one is your radiator and harmonic balancer. while these arent really power adders they are a big way power supporters and usually a problem on these cars eventually. another biggie is a tune, this cannot be stressed enough. other than that it is just a "lets see what is gonna break next" scenario... there is a list of things that you are gonna end up getting along the way that wont ever be in your budget that start adding up.
 
Go with 42# injectors minimal, and a 255lph FI fuel pump.

What you do with the IC is going to dictate how much boost and OD you can run. If your sticking with a single IC with a fan, then a ported blower with coated rotors OD'd at 5% should get you about 14psi with a mild cam and good exhaust. Any more than that and your wasting your time as your timing will be pulled hard and you'll leave alot of power on the table.

My car (auto) made 247rwhp at 4500rpm's and 318rwtrq and was leaving power on the table because my IC was partially plugged from the coating of the rotors, the blower's efficiency was down as well because of the lack of coating, and I have a very crappy exhaust. A mild cam alone netted me roughly 30 rwhp, and possibly more if I fix up the other issues.

With some head work I should be around the 300rwhp mark hopefully and be able to run 10%OD through a single IC to maintain 14psi.

Right now, you need to really think about where you want to take the car in the future and slowly work toward that. For instance, I would stick with the stock 2.73 rear end in that car and focus on the engine making more power (jeez. where did I hear that from ;) ).

Of course, get the car tuned......

Frit
 
if you are doing this more for a daily driver than anything else then those gears might be ok, otherwise you might wan something more aggresive (the early years auto have 3.27s) so a trip to the junk yard is a cost effective. also a big thing will be doing your heads, talk to dave dalke about that. if you are already gonna have your heads off might as well get them done. also opening up your manifolds or some sort of headers is always a plus. the other big one is your radiator and harmonic balancer. while these arent really power adders they are a big way power supporters and usually a problem on these cars eventually. another biggie is a tune, this cannot be stressed enough. other than that it is just a "lets see what is gonna break next" scenario... there is a list of things that you are gonna end up getting along the way that wont ever be in your budget that start adding up.

the long block im getting has fresh heads already done on it, and ill have the old sc and block for spare parts then.
 
Go with 42# injectors minimal, and a 255lph FI fuel pump.

What you do with the IC is going to dictate how much boost and OD you can run. If your sticking with a single IC with a fan, then a ported blower with coated rotors OD'd at 5% should get you about 14psi with a mild cam and good exhaust. Any more than that and your wasting your time as your timing will be pulled hard and you'll leave alot of power on the table.

My car (auto) made 247rwhp at 4500rpm's and 318rwtrq and was leaving power on the table because my IC was partially plugged from the coating of the rotors, the blower's efficiency was down as well because of the lack of coating, and I have a very crappy exhaust. A mild cam alone netted me roughly 30 rwhp, and possibly more if I fix up the other issues.

With some head work I should be around the 300rwhp mark hopefully and be able to run 10%OD through a single IC to maintain 14psi.

Right now, you need to really think about where you want to take the car in the future and slowly work toward that. For instance, I would stick with the stock 2.73 rear end in that car and focus on the engine making more power (jeez. where did I hear that from ;) ).

Of course, get the car tuned......

Frit

getting 13psi atm with just the 10% od on the sc, everything is stock other then that. the 3.08's are already in the car, and my brother screwed me and took the 2.73's in for scrap metal OUCH OUCH MY BUTT IS STILL HURTING. And yes i intend on tune. :)
 
two things to add to this.

You will need another boost pump to get enought fuel up to the engine. Most people think a 255 is plenty,WRONG... You will find that at wot you will be going lean. Once you start to run those bigger injectors you will find that you are going lean at top end if you are racing...
The second thing is to make sure you have a bigger wire feeding the pump. This is something that has been talked about a few times as well. Good luck and have fun........Rich
 
hows this so far.

long block .10 bore
$2334.99
c&l 76mm maf, 75mm throttle body, 3inch air system kit
$588
copm cam stage 1
$350
38lbs injectors
$301
190lph fuel pump
$106
solid rubber motor mounts
$90
replacement rad hoses
$80
oem water pump
$70
5% od jackshaft aluminum pulley kit
$126
scp 8inch high flow ic fan
$70

already have 10% od for sc, getting rebuilt and port sc for $665, no cats to res to 2 flowmasters(2 chamber). spec stage 2 clutch, 3.08 rear end.
Am i missing anything?

You need to shop around on those parts. Some of those prices are rather high. Don't get the Spec clutch unless you like replacing broken parts.
 
I made 245 rwhp / 340 rwtq in an auto with nothing more than this:

after market exhaust
255 lph fuel pump
2x IC with fan
home ported '94-'95 supercharger
5% od pulley
70mm Throttle Body
76mm MAF
(42 lb injectors installed later for additional power potential)
Custom dyno tune

I made that with the stock injectors. I would highly recommend installing 42 lb injectors on top of those mods. 225 rwhp can be had with a lot less than what I have listed. Order of priority would be as listed above. I'm still running with more than that power level with barely any more mods than I have listed above. You don't need to go extreme if your goals are just over 225. Above 260-270 is where you start thinking things like heads and cam with a rebuilt short block (unless you have to sooner) etc. You could come pretty close to 225 (if not more) with just exhaust, a pulley IC fan and a tune.
 
You will need another boost pump to get enought fuel up to the engine. Most people think a 255 is plenty,WRONG... You will find that at wot you will be going lean. Once you start to run those bigger injectors you will find that you are going lean at top end if you are racing...
The second thing is to make sure you have a bigger wire feeding the pump. This is something that has been talked about a few times as well. Good luck and have fun........Rich

I have to disagree with you on this (and please, I am not here to start an argument). Even tuning a 300rwhp car I have not seen any evidence where the car started leaning out with a properly dialed in MAF, injectors, and the proper parameters set up in a tune.

Also there seems to be plenty of cars, like the AR's pushing 400rwhp running high rpm's without using a boost pump and not having issues, but I agree they could be getting close to the 255's limit at this point.

If your seeing this issue, I would venture to guess your hitting a wall with your tuning with a parameter that only has been found recently that will limit how much the EEC will be allowed to measure air flow wise and even if more air goes in, no more fuel is added. A mildly modded SC will hit this wall, and without "scaling" the tune will cause a lean condition.

Fraser
 
You will need another boost pump to get enought fuel up to the engine. Most people think a 255 is plenty,WRONG... You will find that at wot you will be going lean. Once you start to run those bigger injectors you will find that you are going lean at top end if you are racing...
The second thing is to make sure you have a bigger wire feeding the pump. This is something that has been talked about a few times as well. Good luck and have fun........Rich

I also disagree. I have a stock fuel pump running my 42# injectors and the wideband on the dyno was nice and smooth and stayed at my commanded ratio.
 
well here is my side of this.

This is what I had that went lean big time. The setup was as follows, mpx blower with custom coated rotors. 60 lbs injectors, 35% overdrive, matched mass air and tb with the custom MP cold air setup. Front mount IC. Now all these parts were all matched by MP for the engine. I did have it tuned by a well known tuner and it all looked good. When it blew up the plugs were as white as the fresh falling snow and there was other things that showed it had gone lean. The front two pistons got stuck in the bores making them break and total the rest of the engine big time...~~ Now was this engine in good shape before all these mods were done to it? YES, matter of fact it was an engine that was brand new as in never been used before. I did put about 1000 miles on it with mild mods and a tune, but the big mods got tuned as soon as the install was done..~~~ If you can come up with another reason that this went BOOM other than lean I am open to hearing it. The fuel pump was a 255 and it was working,I beleive, good. The engine did come apart while racing, but it was not over reved or run hot ever since it was put into the car brand new...~~ This is why I think that helper fuel pumps are needed if you are going to the wild side of these cars... Does this help or do you need more info......Rich
 
am i right?

the hp rating from the factory is 210hp. so by theory, i have highflow racing cats, 2.25" dual exhaust, flowmaster 80 series muffler (dual inlet/outlet), taylor spiro core race wires, and a k&n cold air intake, i should be making at least an additional 35 more hp and 20 more ft/lbs torque. the engine interals are completely stock. correct me if i am wrong, then point me in the right direction if i am mistaken.
 
flywheel is not rear wheel

the hp rating from the factory is 210hp. so by theory, i have highflow racing cats, 2.25" dual exhaust, flowmaster 80 series muffler (dual inlet/outlet), taylor spiro core race wires, and a k&n cold air intake, i should be making at least an additional 35 more hp and 20 more ft/lbs torque. the engine interals are completely stock. correct me if i am wrong, then point me in the right direction if i am mistaken.

The #'s you are using are flywheel, not rear wheel power. You must look at what the car puts down to the ground if you want to compair #'s.....Rich
 
Rich, 35% OD? Sweet Jebus, what was the boost psi and AFR at the time of destruction?

And was this one of those new/NOS 3.8 engines you had with no miles one them? I was thinkin when I saw your post, a 15+ YR old motor, although new, and 35%OD, and 1000 miles, not a good combo IMO. If this is the case anyway.
 
Maybe I just have a dog of an engine from the factory, but here's my list. I have graphs if you want some proof.
94-95 blower
long tube headers (the engine is in a Mustang chassis)
port and polish
raised supercharger top
large front mounted intercooler
3 way valve job
larger MAF
full 2.5 exhaust, no cats
bored .030 over
12% overdriven sc
Accel coil with Taylor wires
255lpf fuel pump
Full Dyno Tune

229.5hp 329tq at the wheels

I just added a cam from XR7 Dave, which I expect to be in the 10-20hp range.

It seems that many people on the site have a 300hp SC from a cold air intake and flowmasters, but in my car , with this dyno, things seem to take a bit more time and money.
 
If I remember correctly, I put down 220 HP and 310 TQ when we dyno'ed my SC at the 2006 shoot out.....

All I have is a K&N cone filter, 5% JS pulley, and 5% blower pulley with an automatic trans...

She would have put down a little more HP, but she experienced blower belt slipage in the 4500 rpm range....:(
 
Back
Top