Fuel rail

Cluck42

Registered User
ok im doing a super coupe swap in my mustang. long story short some one ran over my super coupe fuel rail and i was just going to use the 3.8 mustang fuel rail. is there any difference ? thanks
 
ok im doing a super coupe swap in my mustang. long story short some one ran over my super coupe fuel rail and i was just going to use the 3.8 mustang fuel rail. is there any difference ? thanks

Doubt the mustang rail will work, SC rail is made to clear the supercharger and is a pretty tight fit. You shouldn't have any trouble getting a replacement fuel rail from someone who is parting out an SC. Look in the classified section. Note: 89-93 SC rail and pressure regulator is differint from 94-95 SC.

David
 
Doubt the mustang rail will work, SC rail is made to clear the supercharger and is a pretty tight fit. You shouldn't have any trouble getting a replacement fuel rail from someone who is parting out an SC. Look in the classified section. Note: 89-93 SC rail and pressure regulator is differint from 94-95 SC.

David


What is the diffrence David in the two?

Ken
 
What is the diffrence David in the two?

Ken

Ken,

Main differince is the 89-93 rail uses a 3 bolt regulator mounting flange with the bolts going up from the bottom side of the rail and the 94-95 uses a 2 bolt regulator flange that is attached from the top side.

David
 
Ken,

Main differince is the 89-93 rail uses a 3 bolt regulator mounting flange with the bolts going up from the bottom side of the rail and the 94-95 uses a 2 bolt regulator flange that is attached from the top side.

David

Is there any advatages to either rail? I just went and checked my new fuel rail for the new blower set up and is a 93 & earlier one like my old one.

Ken
 
Is there any advatages to either rail? I just went and checked my new fuel rail for the new blower set up and is a 93 & earlier one like my old one.

Ken


Ken,

Other than the two bolt regulator that was used on the later models being easier to change, there really isn't an advantage to swapping one for the other.

David

PS: Considering the larger injectors you are going to be using, suggest you get a Kirban adjustable regulator and set your static pressure to 43.5 psi.
 
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Ken,

Other than the two bolt regulator that was used on the later models being easier to change, there really isn't an advantage to swapping one for the other.

David

PS: Considering the larger injectors you are going to be using, suggest you get a Kirban adjustable regulator and set your static pressure to 43.5 psi.

I have been using the 60s for my M112 up to now. I have to confess I dont know anything about setting up a adjustable regulator

Ken
 
I have been using the 60s for my M112 up to now. I have to confess I dont know anything about setting up a adjustable regulator

Ken

Ken, if you can figure out on your eec test port how to jump the fuel pump relay which makes the fuel pump run constant you can easily set static pressure. You'll have your ignition key turned halfway with the vehicle not running.

From there, have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and and you can adjust the aftermarket regulator to where you want. Setting static pressure just means 0 vaccum and 0 boost, you can also set static pressure with the vehicle running and the vaccum line off of the regulator but it is hard to adjust the early model cars that way because it is so cramped in that area with the blower on the car. I set mine without the blower on it so I could get the nut nice and tight on the aftermarket regulator when everything was set where I wanted it. Any help you need with that just ask. I know David is on top of how to set and adjust those pressures also!

Chris
 
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Ken, if you can figure out on your eec test port how to jump the fuel pump relay which makes the fuel pump run constant you can easily set static pressure. You'll have your ignition key turned halfway with the vehicle not running.

From there, have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and and you can adjust the aftermarket regulator to where you want. Setting static pressure just means 0 vaccum and 0 boost, you can also set static pressure with the vehicle running and the vaccum line off of the regulator but it is hard to adjust the early model cars that way because it is so cramped in that area with the blower on the car. I set mine without the blower on it so I could get the nut nice and tight on the aftermarket regulator when everything was set where I wanted it. Any help you need with that just ask. I know David is on top of how to set and adjust those pressures also!

Chris

That is helpful as well but what I ment was installing an aftermarket regulator inplace of the stock unit. ;)

Ken
 
That is helpful as well but what I ment was installing an aftermarket regulator inplace of the stock unit. ;)

Ken

Thats what i'm talking about Ken. The stock units are already set, you cannot change them. I've got a kirban on my car, and that is the proper procedure to adjust it sir.
 
Thats what i'm talking about Ken. The stock units are already set, you cannot change them. I've got a kirban on my car, and that is the proper procedure to adjust it sir.

How does the kirban hook up to the fuel rail? Does the stock unit just continue to be hooked up? I had thought about doing a boost a pump thing but dont know for sure which direction gets me the most for performance

Ken
 
It as easy as that:eek: I will have to look into that for sure

Ken

Ken,

Yeah it's that easy...three small allen head screws hold it in place. With the rail unbolted it only takes a couple minutes to install. It has an oring and rubber gasket that seal the regulator to the fuel rail. Pressure can be set as described above by Chris (that's how I do it). Here's the diagraim showing which contact in the test port to ground to keep the fuel pump running with ignition on. Just make sure the battery is fully charged.

fuel%20pump%20test.gif


David
 
Ken,

Yeah it's that easy...three small allen head screws hold it in place. With the rail unbolted it only takes a couple minutes to install. It has an oring and rubber gasket that seal the regulator to the fuel rail. Pressure can be set as described above by Chris (that's how I do it). Here's the diagraim showing which contact in the test port to ground to keep the fuel pump running with ignition on. Just make sure the battery is fully charged.

fuel%20pump%20test.gif


David

One last thing.....Do you have a part #? I have that kind of luck were I get the wrong thing. It will be nice to have a new regulator. I dont know the history of the rail I have now.

Ken
 
Supercoupe performance has them, just make sure you get the right one for your year of car. As mentioned, its an easy install as I put one in my car and up the static pressure to 43.5 which is what the injectors are rated for.

One thing to keep in mind, when you do this you will need to have your tune adjusted for your AFR, as you'll be running richer at WOT. Mine went rich by about .5 AFR. The computer will still command the same length of time to open the injectors, but since your pressure is up, thats more fuel going in as the computer doesn't know fuel pressure.

Fraser
 
Supercoupe performance has them, just make sure you get the right one for your year of car. As mentioned, its an easy install as I put one in my car and up the static pressure to 43.5 which is what the injectors are rated for.

One thing to keep in mind, when you do this you will need to have your tune adjusted for your AFR, as you'll be running richer at WOT. Mine went rich by about .5 AFR. The computer will still command the same length of time to open the injectors, but since your pressure is up, thats more fuel going in as the computer doesn't know fuel pressure.

Fraser

Thanks all, hadnt really thought about the fuel regulator improvement, guess I will get it done before bolting on the fuel rail. Im sure I will need a tune for the new blower anyway. I do have a AFR gauge in my dash and the data a logging stuff that unfortunitaly has yet to be hooked up. To many projects:rolleyes:

Ken

Ken
 
I haven't had mine retuned in 2 years after installing the AFPR. I just adjust the pressure as needed by watching the wideband at WOT. I'd also add a pressure gauge at the rail to see where you are at.
 
I haven't had mine retuned in 2 years after installing the AFPR. I just adjust the pressure as needed by watching the wideband at WOT. I'd also add a pressure gauge at the rail to see where you are at.

No room for a gauge but the regulator should be a good deal. On a higher HP car would one need a kenne bell boost a pump to increase fuel delivery to go with the regulator. I dont plan to go over 400 at the wheels in the future

Ken
 
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