M5R2 Disassembly and Assembly

ricardoa1

Registered User
Can anyone give me links or point me in the right direction to buy the special tools needed for a M5R2 overhaul?

The right pliyers for the snap rings, what wrench to use etc.



I plan on swapping all of my later components to another M5R2 box case, also throw in a new 3rd gear syncro in, seems like that particular syncro has taken a beating and has worn twice as fast as the others, even with only about 20k since the last rebuild.
At first I was just going to replace my broken tailshaft housing, but if its not too complicated id like to do the above mentioned. Any tips on the hard to remove parts is appreciated.
 
Ive read that many times now, thanks. That article is giving me the courage to take on the task.

Ive already taken out the tailshaft housing and fron bearing plate off. But I am faced with circlips and snap clips and I dont have those tools to talke some of it off.
 
The C clip that holds the speedo gear on can be removed with any standard snap ring pliers. The C-clip on the front of the output shaft is a biatch even with the right tool. Again, I just use a good quality pair of snap ring pliers and be sure to hold your left foot just right....

The other hard part is the big wrench necessary to remove the retaining nut on the output shaft. I don't even know what size it is, I just happen to have a huge crescent wrench that I use to remove it. Then the next tough job is removing the rear case bearing which requires either the Rotunda Ford Tool or a big pry bar..... Everything else other than replacing bearing races can be done with normal hand tools.
 
What's your plan now?? I thought it was just the tail-housing?

I've also rebuilt a few trannies if you need help. I had a service manual that'll detail the disassebly too. Again, I have the tools, even the rear bearing removal tool I made...:)
 
You are like an angel dropped from heaven. Swing by one of these days with the tools so we can swap guts to this other M5R2 case.

Reason for it is my starter bolt boss is stripped on the stock tranny, and I use a bolt and nut to get by, it works but it also bothers me alot. My third gear syncro is half worn while the others are perfect. So while I have it all here why not just put a new one on there. :D
If its too complicated I was not going to do the above mentioned but it does not seem all that bad and I just lack the special tools to swap it all over.
 
If the starter bolt is stripped I'd install a Helicoil, that way you can retain the same threads as stock. Easy Install. Is it just the blocking ring thats worn on 3rd gear? or is it the hub and slider itself?

If you plan on swapping everything over, you'll also have to check the lower shaft end-play and the input shaft endplay. There are shims behind the front cover. When I rebuilt mine I changed all the bearings and I had to order additional shims from ford. You may get lucky, but since 94 parts are going into an older case.. the tolerances might be different. Who knows if they're even still available...

The tool I used to take the rear bearing off, I actually made.. I used a length of pipe, and basically made a long 3-jaw puller by welding on tabs to mount the jaws and then a bolt and nut at the top. This however wrecked the rear bearing since it was pulling on the outer race, which I knew, but I was replacing it, so it didn't matter. I can try to dig it up, I know it's somewhere in my basement at my parents house, but I'd look into other options.

I do have a bearing puller plate which I use all the time with my press. It's just a tapered cup so you can get bearings off without wrecking them since it gets under and grabs the inner race. It's much bigger than the one pictured below but it's worth every penny I paid for it. We could rig it up similar to what is shown below, or even use a large 3-jaw puller instead of the other tool shown. This way it won't wreck the bearing.

DSC_4608.sized.jpg



Once you get it off, you'll need a press to put the bearing back on. You could hammer it on, but def. not what I would suggest.
 
The hole for the starter is not even round anymore and pretty big we had to use a drill to get the broken bolt off and enlarged the hole pretty big doing it.
The brass blocker ring is what is worn down. The fiber material is getting worn much faster then the rest.
 
Good to know. Maybe we can make it a pizza day and beer day.


I called up ford and both rear nuts are available still, list $25.00 and $15.00 I think those are the only two parts that are not reusable, that unless thrash one of the rear bearings

the Syncros-not avail since 2005. Damn ford....


I am hoping I will not need to shim it. MY rear plate is fairly new 20k on it.
If I use the front plate and shim from the earlier case I hope it maintains the same clearences. But who knows. I just looked in the manual and the bearing puller jaws look very specialized.

I am going to call southern gear and see if they can just sell me one syncro.
 
I was looking for that one, Thanks...


I just got off the phone with southern gear, I ordered one blocker-$46 fiber lined and the both retaining nuts-$5 and $10.

I asked him about the "carbon" fiber ones but he said he doesnt know about them, only the brass and the oe fiber lined ones.
 
I've always gotten those bearings off with just a bearing splitter like the picture above. Only not all the other stuff. Just mount the spitter behind the bearing, and thread two screws into those holes and apply even pressure. Tighten one bolt half turn, the other half turn, etc... it'll walk the bearing off. If it's not budging, use some heat on the bearing.

To reinstall it, Autozone stocks a section of exhaust pipe which is perfect for it. It's the exact diameter of the inner race and just long enough to stick out past the tailshaft to allow you to tap it back into place with a mallet.

As for that big nut on the mainshaft, I use two pipe wrenches. Secure one to the splines of the mainshaft, then mount the other one to the nut and use the leverage against each other to bust it lose. I've also seen people take a socket that fits the nut, cut it in half and weld a LONG section of pipe between them. Presto you can use an impact and it'll cost less than the OEM tool.

Here I made you a picture:
transtool.jpg
 
if you could take some pics along the way that would be great, i have 3 of those buggers i have to rebuild later down the line
 
I just got off the phone with southern gear, I ordered one blocker-$46 fiber lined and the both retaining nuts-$5 and $10.

I asked him about the "carbon" fiber ones but he said he doesnt know about them, only the brass and the oe fiber lined ones.

He did correct you when you called it a M5R2 and said it is now the RKE. That is what she did to me when I was pricing parts. She told me I could get any of the 3 types of blockers though.
 
I talked to a guy, I want fiber lined anyways so I did not pushed the subject too much. He knows its for a thunderbird, and I told him the nuts for the F150 are too big, he told me that the M5R1 nuts are the same as the birds. So I ordered thu them also, if they end up being wrong ill go grab the Ford OEM nuts and return the nuts to them.
 
how do keep it all from spinning to take off the big nuts, I am trying to take of the one on the countershaft.
 
I asked him about the "carbon" fiber ones but he said he doesnt know about them, only the brass and the oe fiber lined ones.
There are no carbon fiber ones that anyone knows of... the term is wrongly stated.. Someone out there with ADD had to add filler words that didn't belong. Happens all the time. :rolleyes:
 
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