need some testimony from the 351 swap guys

22lbsofboost

Registered User
i have 92 sc. a spun rod bearing and a lot of 351 w parts lying around
i need to hear from anyone who has run an m5r2 with a 351w. pilot bushing issues? flywheel issues(doubt the latter), also which clutch to run.?
i want to keep my stock accesories (ac, ps, alt) can i use 89-93 5.0 t bird brackets for this? im thinking i can. i used them from a 92 302 ford truck on a 351 so know im ok there.

.40 over 351 around 10:1
set of ported gt 40's screw in studs guideplates yadayada .080 off the set(premium fuel only lol)
all arp studded-girdle-windagetray
motorsport balancer
rpm air gap
660 mech. secondary
hei ignition DUI
motor was for a 1977 ltd II im working on i found a healthy 460 for it so i will use the windosr for the smaller car (though the weight is almost identical)

also at one time i found the pictures of the steering modification needed for proper header placement. has anyone who has performed this mod had any issues with the setup? would you have done anything different? i plan to have air and all, still using the old electrohydrowacko brake system
i will take pics...... i will post them.........we are starting tomorrow with tearout . hope to have it running in a couple weeks.
any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!


was gonna fix the 3.8 but i feel the need to row gears to the tune of a rumbling v8:D
 
I picked up some stuff for my 3.8 before it started sucking the green juice and mixing its own fluids. So I have an aluminum flywheel that I had 28oz added to (last week as a matter of fact) to run on the car with a 351. I know there are several different setups to use with the serp belt alone from truck to car so you will have to see which one you have. MOST of the truck ones I know of use the AC on the top of the engine as the compressor will be on the opposite side of the car on your sc. I do not have my steering mod done yet, but I followed 392bird's post. You can do a search for him, and follow his link to his steering mod. Also, I PMed him and he told me to go with one single piece of steering shaft that was twice the length instead of two pieces of half the length (saved some money). Other than that, it is EXACTLY how he did it (parts wise)....but like I said, mine is not done yet.

SWS
 
I have a 393 in my 91 cougar that was originally a 5.0L car. The 351 works perfectly fine with the M5R2. All the ford pilot bearings are the same inner diameter so you don't have to worry about that, just order up a pilot bearing for a 351. I re-used the stock SC flywheel and just had it rebalanced for the 351. All the 5.0 accessory brackets bolt right up to the 351 the same as on the 5.0, only they are now spaced out farther so you will need a longer belt. Same thing with the motor mounts, get ones for a 5.0 bird and they will bolt right onto the 351. The steering mod was easy, and works perfectly. Also be careful though because even after doing this mod, not all fox mustang headers will fit. The first set I got were just way too wide to make them work on the 351 in the MN12 engine bay. The second set I was able to get to work, but I still had to dent in one of the primary tubes on the passenger side, and beat the snot out of the shock tower on that side to get everything to clear. Also, this lack of clearance will make solid motor mounts a must. I used the stock mount brackets, and then for the mounts themselves I used 2 hockey pucks with a grade 8 bolt going through them and the upper and lower brackets. Doing it this way still gives some vibration dampening, but when you hit the gas instead of pulling on the mount, it is pulling against a grade 8 bolt, so it won't move at all. Plus who can argue with $5 solid motor mounts. As far as setting up the ignition and all that, I just re-used all of the 5.0 wiring and computer with a tune. You will need a distributer for a 94/95 351 F150, but everything else from the 5.0 will work perfectly. Oh also, I ran into a bit of a clearance problem with the 351 oil pan hitting the K-member. I ended up having to notch my K and box it in to get everything to clear.
 
I switched over to MSD stuff for my ignition so I can not help ya there. As far as the pan, I have an AJE so again...no help from me.

SWS
 
The DUI should be a one wire ignition solution. Cant help with install as far as engine height bracket clearence ect...But that carb will be to small for max power:O)
 
I had a cougar last year that i swapped a 351W into. (hence the username :) ) The steering mod is easy and straight forward.

For the clutch/flywheel, i used 94 F150 clutch kit and flywheel, i got a starter too, but i was going auto to manual at the same time...

The oil pan (i used a dual sump fox body swap pan) hit the cross in the K member on the back of the front sump. I had to clearance it like mikey mentioned...

For the mounts, I used chuckw's mounts, they were excellent quality and fit perfectly.

It's not too bad really.
 
Info source for 351 swap

22lbs of boost

I am sending this reply for decipha (aka Michael) who doesn't currently have web access. He has done the 351 into SC swap and said he would gladly provide any advice you need if you call him. His number is five zero four - six zero six - zero five three two.

Nightwing
 
Also, this lack of clearance will make solid motor mounts a must. I used the stock mount brackets, and then for the mounts themselves I used 2 hockey pucks with a grade 8 bolt going through them and the upper and lower brackets.

:eek:

I have never heard of someone using hockey pucks for motor mounts. I guess it works, I for sure would have never thought to do something like that.

Shane
Glynn Motorsports
 
Yeah, it works quite well. Like I said, they dampen the vibrations because the motor is sitting on them, but when you hit the gas, all the tension is on the grade 8 bolt, so it doesn't move at all. Plus I love finding cheap ways to do things like that.
 
Yeah, it works quite well. Like I said, they dampen the vibrations because the motor is sitting on them, but when you hit the gas, all the tension is on the grade 8 bolt, so it doesn't move at all. Plus I love finding cheap ways to do things like that.

So you are using two hockey pucks per side? Got any pictures by chance?

Shane
Glynn Motorsports
 
Not a very good one, but here you go.
HPIM0342.jpg


You basically just take 2 hockey pucks, drill a hole through them dead center, and put a bolt through the bottom plate, both pucks, and then the top plate and a nut on the top of it.
 
Awesome! Thats what I thought you were talking about. I'll be doing this very soon.

Shane
Glynn Motorsports
 
Started with pucks

Awesome! Thats what I thought you were talking about. I'll be doing this very soon.

Shane
Glynn Motorsports

Hey Shane

Do you race scca?

I changed from the pucks to tubing for my center mount. I used 1 3/4" .095 Role bar tubing. I had an issue with massive heat!
HPIM0041.jpg


So I swapped to the tubing. I also lowered & moved the engine back.
Massive K mods to fit my racing oil pan.
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x88/tbirdtess/MVC-008F-1.jpg

Paul
 
After breaking a set of stock 5.0 mounts in my 93 I switched to a set of steel mounts that I had made where I work. The mount on the left is the top of the mount, the right one is the bottom. After test fitting, the mounts were removed and welded to the lower motor mount brackets (part that long bolt goes though).

I expected the solid steel mounts to transmit more vibrations from the motor, but I was pleasntly suprised to find that they felt the same as stock motor mounts.

steel%20motor%20mounts.jpg


David
 
Hey Shane

Do you race scca?

I changed from the pucks to tubing for my center mount. I used 1 3/4" .095 Role bar tubing. I had an issue with massive heat!


So I swapped to the tubing. I also lowered & moved the engine back.
Massive K mods to fit my racing oil pan.
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x88/tbirdtess/MVC-008F-1.jpg

Paul

Paul,

I do race in the scca but will be racing in nasa American Iron this year. Do you do any road course racing? Did you have the heat problem with the hocky pucks? I'm guessing they melted lol.

With your roll bar tubing mounts, is the tubing welded to either the upper or lower motor mount brackets? Or is it the bolt that is going threw the middle what keeps the peice of roll bar in place?

Shane
Glynn Motorsports
 
Nice work

After breaking a set of stock 5.0 mounts in my 93 I switched to a set of steel mounts that I had made where I work. The mount on the left is the top of the mount, the right one is the bottom. After test fitting, the mounts were removed and welded to the lower motor mount brackets (part that long bolt goes though).

I expected the solid steel mounts to transmit more vibrations from the motor, but I was pleasntly suprised to find that they felt the same as stock motor mounts.

steel%20motor%20mounts.jpg


David

Nice work. :D

I learned this trick from fellow hot rodders, we do this all the time but we are always putting motors in cars they didn't come in. The only problem I had with solid motor mounts in the past is losing a cylinder or having an out of balance drive line. Either case the vibration you feel is the least of your concerns.
 
3 peice set

Paul,

I do race in the scca but will be racing in nasa American Iron this year. Do you do any road course racing? Did you have the heat problem with the hocky pucks? I'm guessing they melted lol.

With your roll bar tubing mounts, is the tubing welded to either the upper or lower motor mount brackets? Or is it the bolt that is going threw the middle what keeps the peice of roll bar in place?

Shane
Glynn Motorsports

Hello

I keep them in 3 peice set because it is alot easier to install the engine.
With the kick out oil pan she must almost drop into place. With the lower & centers in there is no way to get her in.

Paul
 
clutch and headers

about to order clutch and headers. ol victor has done me right in the past im gonna call him today about the clutch. as far as simple shorties, who has had luck with which ones? after steering shaft mod of course. seems everything else is going ok. will take some pics tonight if its not 19 degrees again:eek:
 
Don't waste your time with shorty headers. Once you have done the steering shaft mod, a lot of fox-body longtubes will work. The performance difference between shorties and longtubes is very noticable, and the extra cost is minimal, especially once you have done the steering shaft mod.
 
Hello

I keep them in 3 peice set because it is alot easier to install the engine.
With the kick out oil pan she must almost drop into place. With the lower & centers in there is no way to get her in.

Paul

Paul,

What length did you cut the roll bar tubing?

Shane
Glynn Motorsports
 
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