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1064rg
02-17-2009, 06:59 PM
93 5sp 94xxx miles
Here's the background:
I filled up w/89 octane gas (best they had) at a station that I'd never been to before, at lunch, and drove 2 miles back to work. Everything was fine.
I was 25* at quitting time so I let it warm up for 15 min before driving home.
When I got in after warmup the check engine light was on.
I shut the car off, and restarted it, light went away.
The car ran fine half the way home (60mph), and the the light came on, the boost gauge went from like -2ish to +6ish, the tach dropped from 15-1600ish, or whatever is normal, to 1050ish.
I floored it, and it was gutless, downshifted, to 4 then 3, still gutless, the tach never when up over IIRC 1500, but it sounded like 3000+.
I shut it off, then restarted, sometimes the prob would go away, sometimes not. If I drove with light on the tach never showed more than 13-1400, but it sounded like it was reving normal, but with 5-7psi boost, and NO power.
The prob is intermittent, but in the 25 min(20 mile) drive to work, the light will come on at least once, and go off at least once.
Also it will not idle w/o dying, if I give it a little gas it will run.
If the light is off, everything is normal, if it is on then it is like driving a 4 banger in a 40 mph headwind. 55-60 mph TOPS.
Did I get bad gas, or did something else die at the same time?

fturner
02-17-2009, 09:21 PM
Sounds like the EEC is going into limp mode on you. Running 89 while not the best thing for your car shouldn't cause it to go into limp mode like that, unless the gas was so bad its fouled up your O2 sensors causing them to go berserk. See if you can read any codes.

Meanwhile, get some good quality gas in there as soon as possible.

Fraser

KMT
02-17-2009, 09:26 PM
>sometimes the prob would go away, sometimes not.

Cam sensor and/or harness. Check the balancer while you're in there.

slowpoke
02-18-2009, 12:24 AM
sounds like (89 octane BAD IDEA) and yes it also sounds like it might have been bad gas to. if it was bad gas it should be fine in about 3 tanks. also if the check engine light in on then its going to pop a code. check it and see what it says. im willing to bet it'll say misfire.

1064rg
02-18-2009, 06:39 PM
should I put in any additive? octane boost, heet, etc?
What is a good economical universal code reader? ( I have 2 ford powerstrokes that I would also use it on).

slowpoke
02-19-2009, 12:59 AM
NEVER PUT ADDITIVES IN, if you care about your car. and best code reader is a paper clip on 1 of the 2 plug harness on the passenger side near the fire wall. check the search bar and you should be able to find a pic of what to do there.

David Neibert
02-19-2009, 01:12 AM
93 5sp 94xxx miles
Here's the background:
I filled up w/89 octane gas (best they had) at a station that I'd never been to before, at lunch, and drove 2 miles back to work. Everything was fine.
I was 25* at quitting time so I let it warm up for 15 min before driving home.
When I got in after warmup the check engine light was on.
I shut the car off, and restarted it, light went away.
The car ran fine half the way home (60mph), and the the light came on, the boost gauge went from like -2ish to +6ish, the tach dropped from 15-1600ish, or whatever is normal, to 1050ish.
I floored it, and it was gutless, downshifted, to 4 then 3, still gutless, the tach never when up over IIRC 1500, but it sounded like 3000+.
I shut it off, then restarted, sometimes the prob would go away, sometimes not. If I drove with light on the tach never showed more than 13-1400, but it sounded like it was reving normal, but with 5-7psi boost, and NO power.
The prob is intermittent, but in the 25 min(20 mile) drive to work, the light will come on at least once, and go off at least once.
Also it will not idle w/o dying, if I give it a little gas it will run.
If the light is off, everything is normal, if it is on then it is like driving a 4 banger in a 40 mph headwind. 55-60 mph TOPS.
Did I get bad gas, or did something else die at the same time?

Mine did the same thing when the DIS module went bad. You can go to autozone and they will read the codes for free. Write down the code and post them here.

David

Young-SC-Owner
02-19-2009, 01:47 AM
Mine did the same thing when the DIS module went bad. You can go to autozone and they will read the codes for free. Write down the code and post them here.

David

Autozone here only does OBD-II (Tulsa)

Do they read all in MO?

1064rg
02-19-2009, 11:05 AM
What is a DIS module?

David Neibert
02-19-2009, 01:36 PM
What is a DIS module?

http://www.autozone.com/R,222908/vehicleId,1608601/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,284/partType,00029/shopping/partProductDetail.htm


http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528006b5b2


David

DrFishbone
02-19-2009, 01:59 PM
DIS module is what I would try first...every SC I've owned has had at least one go bad. Get some codes pulled first though...there's a variety of codes a DIS module could possibly trigger.

The module sits on top of the motor (passenger side), has two plugs on either side and is gray. If you have a motorcraft one, it is labeled, otherwise the cover is just plain. It has (4) 5.5mm bolts that hold it in, all of which are easy to get to. Trying this first will be the easy thing to do, and if it doesn't fix the problem, you will need the new one eventually...trust me. :) I keep an extra one in all our car's gloveboxes.

There's plenty of info on the website about these things - you can either search for more info, or we'll be glad to help.

Tim Groth
02-19-2009, 02:04 PM
Based on what you have discribed I would say you're problems have absolutely nothing to do with 89 octane gas to be honest with you.

My first guess on your problem would be a bad balancer or even the common broken crank bolt. If it's not that my second guess as already mentioned is a bad crank sensor, which usually comes from the balancer wobbling around when it's bad. My 93 5spd did similar issues 3 times - all from a bad balancer - again don't reuse a balancer, it's just more work in the long run. Buy the BHJ and be done with it.

-Tim

Mike Puckett
02-19-2009, 02:20 PM
Based on what you have discribed I would say you're problems have absolutely nothing to do with 89 octane gas to be honest with you.


I agree. I used to run 89 in my 35th all the time and never had a problem. It never knocked, pinged, or ran bad.

1064rg
02-19-2009, 04:39 PM
I have run 89 before w/o problems, it is just coincidence that all this happened after the fill up. I have driven it once since it acted up.
I have owned this car since 1997, and 24??? miles. None of the sensors, modules,etc that I know of, have been replaced. Dad and I replaced the HG 4-5 yrs ago, at 65-70k. also new plugs at that time.
I'm looking to buy a inexpensive universal code reader, any suggestions.

David Neibert
02-20-2009, 01:46 PM
I have run 89 before w/o problems, it is just coincidence that all this happened after the fill up. I have driven it once since it acted up.
I have owned this car since 1997, and 24??? miles. None of the sensors, modules,etc that I know of, have been replaced. Dad and I replaced the HG 4-5 yrs ago, at 65-70k. also new plugs at that time.
I'm looking to buy a inexpensive universal code reader, any suggestions.

I bought an Acutron scanner from Autozone (for Ford only) I think it cost around $40. Comes with a book that identifies what the code numbers mean. Note: This thing doesn't display code numbers, just flashes a sequence of lights and/or a tone that you have to count up and write down.

David

19TbirdSC91
02-20-2009, 07:03 PM
Yeah, running 89 when its cold outside is perfectly fine isn't it? I stick to premium in the SC and SVT Focus all year round though.

KMT
02-20-2009, 07:09 PM
>I'm looking to buy a inexpensive universal code reader, any suggestions.

After you get a reader...you might want to reference the SC specific codes (http://www.njtacc.com/tech/eec_codes.html) rather than the generic list that most readers come with...

Tim Groth
02-20-2009, 08:29 PM
I'm looking to buy a inexpensive universal code reader, any suggestions.

If you can limp it over to Advance or Auto Zone they will typically pull codes for you in the lot free of charge. Not trying to sound rude or anything but if you have it narrowed down to 2 possible issues why not save the expense and replace the sensors as general upkeep? Code readers are usually $50 or so if I recall...sure you can pick up both sensors for less on here.


Yeah, running 89 when its cold outside is perfectly fine isn't it? I stick to premium in the SC and SVT Focus all year round though.

I've always ran 89 in my SC's when going on road trips where I know I will be using cruise and not seeing over 5lbs of boost...cooler weather usually helps also...Honestly if you're not hot doggin' it 89 will work good for most days of the week.

-Tim

1064rg
02-23-2009, 04:58 PM
I drove it to work this a.m., everything ran fine. I started it up at lunch, drove 2 miles to a gas station, and it ran like crap, with the check engine light on. I put in 11 gal of 93 octane, and drove back. 3rd gear, 40mph, FLOORED, 7psi, 1300rpm, check engine light, and firm ride lights on. I was able to get into 4th, 50 mph, before I had to turn into work. It took me a mile to get going that fast. It was limiting my tach rpm. Sometimes the engine sounded like it was 3000+rpm, but the tach showed 1300 or something like that.
It sputtered several times at that speed, tries to die at stop lights, and will not idle w/o throttle input.
How does the paperclip code reader trick work?

KMT
02-23-2009, 05:24 PM
How does the paperclip code reader trick work?

Use paperclip where it says jumper...
http://zenseeker.net/4x4/eec/test.gif
The SC's self-test connector should be over on the passenger side of the engine compartment, between the firewall and the shock tower. It might be tucked under a plastic shroud labeled 'VIP Connector'...pull the shroud up with the connector and then off to expose the connector slots.

You need to decode the number of times the CEL flashes (http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13) to interpret the codes. (http://www.njtacc.com/tech/eec_codes.html)

TbirdSCFan
02-23-2009, 05:43 PM
DIS module is what I would try first...every SC I've owned has had at least one go bad. Get some codes pulled first though...there's a variety of codes a DIS module could possibly trigger. Same here. I've had this happen a couple of times.

TbirdSCFan
02-23-2009, 05:44 PM
Oh and you can read codes w/o the voltmeter by counting flashes from the check engine lamp.

Mike Puckett
02-23-2009, 05:51 PM
That makes it sound to me like either a massive IC or IC tubing leak or the DIS. I've had tubing leaks that were from loose connections or cracks that would open and close; sometimes it would seem to be Ok and other times something was definitely wrong. I've also had a bad DIS that wouldn't idle, one that lost the tach signal but ran Ok, another that ran fine until the engine got really hot then missfired, and one that just quit.

1064rg
02-23-2009, 06:29 PM
Use paperclip where it says jumper...
http://zenseeker.net/4x4/eec/test.gif
The SC's self-test connector should be over on the passenger side of the engine compartment, between the firewall and the shock tower. It might be tucked under a plastic shroud labeled 'VIP Connector'...pull the shroud up with the connector and then off to expose the connector slots.

You need to decode the number of times the CEL flashes (http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13) to interpret the codes. (http://www.njtacc.com/tech/eec_codes.html)

You say to run a jumper between the sti terminal, and the top right terminal (SIG-RTN)?, whereas the link says to jump the sti terminal to ground. Which one is it, or does it matter?

KMT
02-23-2009, 07:11 PM
You say to run a jumper between the sti terminal, and the top right terminal (SIG-RTN)?, whereas the link says to jump the sti terminal to ground. Which one is it, or does it matter?

The voltmeter diagram works for me - pick whichever is easiest for you to follow/use.

Personally, I find it a pain to manually trigger tests at the connector and then have to run around to the driver's seat to read the dash lite, etc. Of course if there are two people, and one knows how to read and record the flashes...hit the key, press the pedals, turn the steering wheel etc., while the other triggers each test mode, clears codes, etc...

These days I use a $40.00 code reader w/display & a 1.5 meter extension harness I made up, so I can sit behind the wheel and run things by myself.

TbirdSCFan
02-23-2009, 08:29 PM
Of course if there are two people, and one knows how to read and record the flashes...hit the key, press the pedals, turn the steering wheel etc., while the other triggers each test mode, clears codes, etc.. It takes some practice to get the technique down. Can't tell you how many times I've said.. "oops was that a flash.. oh here comes another.. now was that a 2 second pause.. Wait was that the separator pulse.. it was just one flash.. or was it the number 1" :confused: :confused:
:D

neverfastenough
02-23-2009, 09:29 PM
You can buy the code reader autozone uses for 14bux, atleast thats how much I paid. Id pay that before fiddling with paper clips and jumper wires. I got mine at pepboys about a year ago. I dont know if they still have it that cheap or not.

1064rg
02-26-2009, 06:51 PM
will I hurt anything by driving it?

1064rg
02-28-2009, 02:30 PM
I used the paperclip method, and this is what I come up with: 11,4,216
I think I did it right. blink,pause,blink,p,bbbb,p,b,p,b,p,bbbb,long p,b,long p,bb,p,b,p,bbbbbb, p,bb,p,b,p,bbbbbb.

KMT
02-28-2009, 11:54 PM
I used the paperclip method, and this is what I come up with: 11,4,216
I think I did it right. blink,pause,blink,p,bbbb,p,b,p,b,p,bbbb,long p,b,long p,bb,p,b,p,bbbbbb, p,bb,p,b,p,bbbbbb.

216 C Coil 2 primary circuit failure (DIS)

Have any spare parts? Coil? DIS?

Know how to check the grounds...?

What are your most current symptoms?

1064rg
03-02-2009, 06:28 PM
216 C Coil 2 primary circuit failure (DIS)

Have any spare parts? Coil? DIS?

Know how to check the grounds...?

What are your most current symptoms?

no
no
see 1st post
I made it all the way to work sat w/o CEL
CEL all the way home

1064rg
03-11-2009, 12:09 PM
what does all this mean, what parts do I need?

KMT
03-11-2009, 12:28 PM
what does all this mean, what parts do I need?

Remove the DIS module and have it tested. A local parts store should offer to test ignition modules for free. New ones are not low priced so be careful - it is far too easy to spend money on parts you may not actually need, that's why the query about spares.

1064rg
03-11-2009, 12:53 PM
Sometimes everything works fine, sometimes not. Will this affect the test procedure?
What about a coil?, what is it / where located?

David Neibert
03-11-2009, 01:03 PM
Sometimes everything works fine, sometimes not. Will this affect the test procedure?
What about a coil?, what is it / where located?

It's reccomended to replace the coil whenever replacing the DIS module, but most people don't. The coil is the part that the six plug wires attach to.

David

KMT
03-11-2009, 01:09 PM
>Sometimes everything works fine, sometimes not. Will this affect the test procedure?

Out of your control. Intermittent issues come with the territory - just have the module tested and wait to see what, if anything, turns up.

If you had a known good spare you could just swap them. If you wanted to risk the money/time, you could just put in a new one. Testing can help to avoid guessing, that's why you pulled the codes.

>What about a coil?, what is it / where located?

Step-by-step.

Do you have an OHM meter to test the coil with?

Primary: .3 to .8

Secondary: 10.9K to 16.4K

Rectangular, right above the driver's side valve cover; front. Six plug wires and one connector sticking out of the top. Same logic as above applies.

Detailed testing for some items per Ford is here if you have the tools/skills/time etc.:
http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/DISnostart/DIS%20No%20Start.htm

1064rg
03-11-2009, 02:28 PM
Forgive me for ignorance, but what does primary, and secondary mean.
I do have a cheaper craftsman OHM meter

KMT
03-11-2009, 02:35 PM
Forgive me for ignorance, but what does primary, and secondary mean.
I do have a cheaper craftsman OHM meter

Troubleshooting intermittent issues is difficult enough without having to compound things by learning such elements as automotive electrical basics at the same time. This only puts you at further risk of not solving issues.

If you can locate and remove the DIS, have it tested off the car. If it tests OK, you can move to other issues.

DrFishbone
03-11-2009, 06:42 PM
I got one from Advance Auto Parts awhile back - if you have them in your area, just look it up on the parts finder. $82 with a lifetime warranty...plus even if you don't need it yet, you probably will! :p

1064rg
03-13-2009, 06:21 PM
pulled dis, went to autozone, oreilly's, and ford and nobody was able able to test it.
AZ said it couldn't be tested, Or's said that it could, but they didn't have the right plug, and ford said it couldn't be tested off the car. Now what do I do?
AZ wanted $130, or's 230ish, I didn't even ask at ford.

KMT
03-13-2009, 07:58 PM
>Now what do I do?

Choices would appear to be:

Start throwing money towards parts until the problem goes away
Take it to a shop and pay to have it diagnosed and repaired
Find another SC owner in your location that has time to help

Young-SC-Owner
03-14-2009, 12:22 AM
pulled dis, went to autozone, oreilly's, and ford and nobody was able able to test it.
AZ said it couldn't be tested, Or's said that it could, but they didn't have the right plug, and ford said it couldn't be tested off the car. Now what do I do?
AZ wanted $130, or's 230ish, I didn't even ask at ford.

Your AZ is full of it, i test mine for chet and giggles!! I work there!!

David Neibert
03-14-2009, 12:37 AM
pulled dis, went to autozone, oreilly's, and ford and nobody was able able to test it.
AZ said it couldn't be tested, Or's said that it could, but they didn't have the right plug, and ford said it couldn't be tested off the car. Now what do I do?
AZ wanted $130, or's 230ish, I didn't even ask at ford.

Buy a used DIS module from the classified section, and get some of that artic silver heat sink stuff from Radio Shack.

David

None2Slow
03-14-2009, 01:17 AM
Your AZ is full of it, i test mine for chet and giggles!! I work there!!



Don't be so quick to assume grasshopper. AZ in Sacramento, CA stopped puling codes. Said it was liability issues or some crap. The 1 that I used to go to said that when they pull the codes, it would tell what part MAY have triggerd the code. People bought the part, then when it didn't fix the problem, they were all upset. Now they have a used electronic part that can't be returned. At least thats the story they telling and sticking to.

Young-SC-Owner
03-14-2009, 09:48 AM
Don't be so quick to assume grasshopper. AZ in Sacramento, CA stopped puling codes. Said it was liability issues or some crap. The 1 that I used to go to said that when they pull the codes, it would tell what part MAY have triggerd the code. People bought the part, then when it didn't fix the problem, they were all upset. Now they have a used electronic part that can't be returned. At least thats the story they telling and sticking to.

move from california.:rolleyes:

as i tell people, were not a certified repair station. I assume no responsibility to what they may/may not do. Im doing what they want me to do

Young-SC-Owner
03-14-2009, 09:50 AM
Buy a used DIS module from the classified section, and get some of that artic silver heat sink stuff from Radio Shack.

David

But dave, KMT specifically stated Fraser (Fturner) was wrong to use that stuff.:confused::rolleyes::p;)

David Neibert
03-14-2009, 10:29 AM
But dave, KMT specifically stated Fraser (Fturner) was wrong to use that stuff.:confused::rolleyes::p;)

The reason for using the artic silver heat sink grease is to conduct heat from the DIS module into the cast aluminum accessory bracket. Dielectric grease is good for conducting electrical current or providing a better ground, but that isn't needed because the DIS module is grounded through it's 4 mounting screws.

I know that the repair manual identifies the grease as dielectric, but I know it's not the same stuff as what people would use on their spark plugs, fuel pump wiring harness and other electrical connections. Dielectric grease is a gel like substance similar to Vaseline, where the heat sink grease is more of a white paste. I suppose it's possible that the part number in the Ford repair manual is a grease that actually serves both purposes, and they just call it dielectric grease.

David

XR7 Dave
03-14-2009, 10:58 AM
Dielectric is non conductive by definition. KMT said that the grease was used to prevent heat from the bracket getting into the DIS, whereas others say it is used to aid in dissipation of heat from the DIS. I'm not aware of any failures due to whatever kind of grease is used, but the OE stuff appears to be more like a heat sink compound than a regular dielectric grease. The Ford manual most definitely calls for a dielectric but since they give a part #, maybe someone should go buy some and have it analyzed. :D

1064rg
03-14-2009, 10:59 AM
How do I learn what primary/secondary is, so I can test my own coil.
I am fairly competent with a ohm meter, I just don't know terminology, or were to test.

David Neibert
03-14-2009, 11:04 AM
Lean something new everyday.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric

David

1064rg
03-14-2009, 11:29 AM
Detailed testing for some items per Ford is here if you have the tools/skills/time etc.:
http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/DISnostart/DIS%20No%20Start.htm

will try this this weekend

KMT
03-14-2009, 12:31 PM
How do I learn what primary/secondary is, so I can test my own coil.
I am fairly competent with a ohm meter, I just don't know terminology, or were to test.

I don't suspect a coil problem, but there is a quick test you can perform to help eliminate it from the suspect pool.

A primary coil is one that is charged and then grounded to cause a voltage buildup in a secondary coil. The spark plugs are connected directly to the secondary coils via the plug wires. The SC coil has six spark plug sockets for this purpose.

Notice the layout of these sockets on the coil in this fashion.

ABC
DEF

...there is one secondary coil 'pair' for every two cylinders with pairs working in this manner: A & D; B & E; C & F.

You'll need to pull each pair of plug wires and test the resistance between the two sockets. The secondaries should be 8K-12K as measured between firing pairs. Test between A & D; B & E; C & F and write down what you find.

Take note of which wires are in which socket before removing. Tilt the head of the plug wire end connector to one side and pull up to remove...reverse to attach - don't force anything as part of the process.

All of the readings should be the same - if there is a problem, you will see a much different reading. Don't sweat minor variations. You might want to test twice...once when the engine/coil are cool and once when hot.

fturner
03-14-2009, 12:51 PM
But dave, KMT specifically stated Fraser (Fturner) was wrong to use that stuff.:confused::rolleyes::p;)

Obviously I'm wrong, again.

I know several people have used dielectric grease... the clear gel stuff, and had issues with the car running after ten minutes or so, thats with a brand new DIS installed. After cleaning that off and putting the white paste on they've never had a problem. I've also checked with the local Ford and talked with the mechanics and they confirmed it was not regular dieletric grease and that should only be used with spark plug boots and electrical connectors etc.

But what ever, to each their own. The white paste stays in my car because I know it works.

Fraser

XR7 Dave
03-14-2009, 03:08 PM
How do I learn what primary/secondary is, so I can test my own coil.
I am fairly competent with a ohm meter, I just don't know terminology, or were to test.

KMT told you right above, but I didn't see a clear explanation as to primary/secondary circuits. In case you did not pick it up from his explanation, the primary side of the automotive coil is the side with the small wires that runs off the 12v system of the car. The small oval plug on the side of the coil contains the primary side.

The secondary side is the side that runs at 15,000-50,000v depending on load. This is commonly known as the spark plug side of things. So to test the coil secondary side, measure load across the pairs of output terminals. To test the primary side, check load across the little pins to the input terminal (red wire in that plug).

I've never actually witnessed a coil pack failure but DIS failures, melted harnesses, missing shield ground wires, and cam sensor failures are much more common. Also, occasionally when one component goes it takes others with it so don't be surprised if it needs both a cam sensor and a DIS. In fact in extreme cases I've seen EEC's fry the both of them making it necessary to replace all three. That's not common though.

KMT
03-14-2009, 04:59 PM
But dave, KMT specifically stated Fraser (Fturner) was wrong to use that stuff.:confused::rolleyes::p;)

I didn't say that. I said it was wrong to claim that dielectric would kill a DIS. Use whatever you like, but please try to understand what's happening and why.

1064rg
03-22-2009, 05:58 PM
I'm doing the test procedures, made to N23. Where is the crank sensor?

1064rg
03-22-2009, 07:46 PM
let's look at the 1st post again-- all this happened 1-2 miles after refueling, could I have a plugged fuel filter?


93 5sp 94xxx miles
Here's the background:
I filled up w/89 octane gas (best they had) at a station that I'd never been to before, at lunch, and drove 2 miles back to work. Everything was fine.
I was 25* at quitting time so I let it warm up for 15 min before driving home.
When I got in after warmup the check engine light was on.
I shut the car off, and restarted it, light went away.
The car ran fine half the way home (60mph), and the the light came on, the boost gauge went from like -2ish to +6ish, the tach dropped from 15-1600ish, or whatever is normal, to 1050ish.
I floored it, and it was gutless, downshifted, to 4 then 3, still gutless, the tach never when up over IIRC 1500, but it sounded like 3000+.
I shut it off, then restarted, sometimes the prob would go away, sometimes not. If I drove with light on the tach never showed more than 13-1400, but it sounded like it was reving normal, but with 5-7psi boost, and NO power.
The prob is intermittent, but in the 25 min(20 mile) drive to work, the light will come on at least once, and go off at least once.
Also it will not idle w/o dying, if I give it a little gas it will run.
If the light is off, everything is normal, if it is on then it is like driving a 4 banger in a 40 mph headwind. 55-60 mph TOPS.
Did I get bad gas, or did something else die at the same time?

While I was trying to figure this thing I noticed: When idling w/ the hood open the whole engine shook more than normal, and stuttered some. When I grabbed the throttle and reved it up it it smoothed out nice. It sounded ok, and reved 3-4000 rpm. While driving, the tach never read over 15-1800, and no power. My ear tach said 3000+.

KMT
03-23-2009, 03:31 AM
I'm doing the test procedures, made to N23. Where is the crank sensor?

Front of the engine, passenger side of the crank pulley - hiding under a two-piece plastic shroud with timing marks on it.

The crank sensor is at the end of the black harness... red circle in the attached image...

Camshaft sensor is at the top of the image.

1064rg
03-23-2009, 12:26 PM
That's what I thought. Does the plastic cover just pop off? I was able to get it unsnapped on the pass side, but not on the drivers.

KMT
03-23-2009, 01:07 PM
That's what I thought. Does the plastic cover just pop off? I was able to get it unsnapped on the pass side, but not on the drivers.

You might pry the bottom half of the shroud loose, but the sensor is behind the upper, which is held on by a nut-on-a-stud at the 12 o'clock position. See the previous photo.

Why are you chasing the crank sensor?

1064rg
03-23-2009, 06:04 PM
http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/DISnostart/DIS%20No%20Start.htm

I started w/ N7, and progressed to N23 following the IF a then THEN b method.

Key off

Reconnect DIS Module Connector Pins 1-6

Connect LED Test Lamp between (+) Pin 4 on the Crank Sensor Connector (VBAT PS) and (-) Pin 7 of the DIS Connector (IGND D)

Key on

If the LED Test lamp is on, go to N24, otherwise check the connectors and service or replace the harness.

I don't think my test light is LED, does it matter?

KMT
03-23-2009, 06:11 PM
http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/DISnostart/DIS%20No%20Start.htm

I started w/ N7, and progressed to N23 following the IF a then THEN b method.

Key off

Reconnect DIS Module Connector Pins 1-6

Connect LED Test Lamp between (+) Pin 4 on the Crank Sensor Connector (VBAT PS) and (-) Pin 7 of the DIS Connector (IGND D)

Key on

If the LED Test lamp is on, go to N24, otherwise check the connectors and service or replace the harness.


Then perhaps you're looking for the crank sensor connector, not the sensor itself :) The harness is hardwired/epoxied/buried down at the sensor end so you'll need to find the connector end to test if you're following the outline.

The crank sensor connector should be up near/above the camshaft sensor - follow your crank sensor harness (see the image for example) upwards.

>I don't think my test light is LED, does it matter?

Any test light that will illuminate on a 5V feed will do. If your test light requires +/- 12V, you should find an alternate device.