sears ##$%^ my car, help!!

89tird

Registered User
I just finished installing two new rear brake disks and pads, damn thing was a mission had to turn the piston with channel locks and a c clamp, my question is i test drove the car around the block for 5 minutes came back parked it, decided to touch the disks and the front left is cold, the back left is hot, the back right is cold and the front right is hot, so what does that mean? the two Front brakes got good pad left.

i openED the bleeder on the back two but kinda bled them?? any suggEstions
 
I just finished installing two new rear brake disks and pads, *** thing was a mission had to turn the piston with channel locks and a c clamp, my question is i test drove the car around the block for 5 minutes came back parked it, decided to touch the disks and the front left is cold, the back left is hot, the back right is cold and the front right is hot, so what does that mean? the two Front brakes got good pad left.

i openED the bleeder on the back two but kinda bled them?? any suggEstions

Any (ABS) related dash lights on? Did you bleed the rears with the key on?
 
no lights, did not bleed with key on :rolleyes:..

I opened the bleeders because it made it easier to rotate the piston, its hard to believe that the stock rotors and pads from 1993 still had some material left:eek:
 
forgot to add that the brakes that got hot , got really hott couldnt even touch them after 5 minutes there was also smoke coming off it, I didnt use any lube on the brakes.. did I have to ?
 
ohh good to know the chiltons manual didnt say anything about that, any type og grease will do ?
 
But not on the rotors, only on the caliper pins themselves. Use some brake cleaner on the pins and holes and then make sure they are free of any debris. Maybe use scotchbrite on them to get the tuff stuff off. Also, did you clean the rotors before installing them? They have an oil type coating on them for storage that has to be cleaned off before you use them.
 
its even possible now that the pads that were sticking could be glazed as well, you might need to resurface them!!!
 
Just drove around kind of hard.

glazed??

Yeah, that probably wasnt the best idea. Youre supposed to take it easy and give them time to cool down when you break them in properly, or they can warp, etc ..

- Dan
 
Ok didnt feel like getting dirty tonight , dropped off the car at sears , the guy drove it around and told me that the master cylinder was bad he said that theres two o rings inside of it and the first one fails but the last one doesnt so you get brakes with the pedal all the way down.

he took off the wheels and and shook the disks and they move back and forth freely, so he said the calipers werent sticking..

So they qouted me on $205 to replace the master cylinder and bleed the system. labor and parts.

they were qouting me $250 to replace all 4 calipers with pads and bleed.

did I get raped with the price on the master cylinder ?
 
Well...if they are really going to replace the master cylinder (called a Hydrauilic Actuator Assembly on a 89 SC with a Teves Mark II ABS System) then you would be getting a good deal for sure. A reman unit costs over $700. My take is the guy has no idea what he is talking about. I am afraid if you actually try and take them up on the deal they will be changing their tune REAL quick.

When you bleed the brakes did you do the rears with the key on?????? Did you get a good bleed on the fronts too?
 
Sorry its a 93sc, no I did a quick bleed without power and not the front, should have read the manual :rolleyes: , I thing the master could be bad because the reservoir would get low on fluid sometimes and there was no leaks anywere, the only leak i have is from the EVO sensor on the PS pump. the pedal goes almost all the way down.
 
Well...a 93 and up SC is a different story. That is a Teves Mark VI system. But to bleed the brakes properly you need a special tool to plug into ABS System to make the pump run and the solenoid valves cycle. Given you have I presume had the systrm open during your pad replacement (cracked the bleeders or such to push back the pistons on the fronts or turn them back for the rears) I would still have the system bleed properly before making any assumptions as to problems.
 
Ford should have this tool right ?? any idea how much the dealer charges to bleed the brakes :confused:, if they know how to do it properly :rolleyes:
 
Back
Top