Drive line joints

kenewagner

kenewagner

Registered User
I will be soon installing a Lentec Transmission. I am sure the U joint in the driveshaft, like the old tranny have over 145,000 miles on them, What do the big dogs recommend for new U joints. Is there a stronger joint than stock to install??

Ken
 
This is why you guys probably only do one night comedy stands:rolleyes::D

Anyone one else replace their U joints with a superior product other than stock? Is the moog joint stock or aftermarket?

ken
 
kenewagner said:
Anyone one else replace their U joints with a superior product other than stock? Is the moog joint stock or aftermarket?

ken
Click to expand...

When I had my driveshaft rebuilt and balanced, the driveline shop used Spicer U-joints. I can't say they are better or worse than OEM.

Bryan
 
U-Joints

Our cars use the 1330 style joints [same as the Mustang] and there is a pretty good selection out there. Last time I changed joints, I went with Neapco Brute Force units part no 2-4800BF. They are beefy and Advance Auto has them for about $17 each. If you're going all out, you can probably go with Lakewood 23016 joints for about $37 each
 

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Jim Cook said:
Our cars use the 1330 style joints [same as the Mustang] and there is a pretty good selection out there. Last time I changed joints, I went with Neapco Brute Force units part no 2-4800BF. They are beefy and Advance Auto has them for about $17 each. If you're going all out, you can probably go with Lakewood 23016 joints for about $37 each
Click to expand...

Thats what Im looking for. Im surprised at the lack of material on drive shaft joints. I would think that it would be one more weak link to remove from our cars. Great information. Thanks

Ken
 
>I would think that it would be one more weak link to remove from our cars.

Yeah, 'cause we hate it when parts only last 147k

I'd think a u-joint would be far better to bust than a ring & pinion, trans or axle. When you move the drama from one item, it usually just targets another. Is there really that much u-joint busting going on?
 
KMT said:
>I would think that it would be one more weak link to remove from our cars.

Yeah, 'cause we hate it when parts only last 147k

I'd think a u-joint would be far better to bust than a ring & pinion, trans or axle. When you move the drama from one item, it usually just targets another. Is there really that much u-joint busting going on?
Click to expand...

More intresting in putting in good parts the first time.

Ken
 
If you don't want to change your driveshaft, then you'll need to go with 1330 U-joints. Personally, if I felt the rest of the components were up to it, I would switch over to 1350 series u-joints. But that would require new yokes at the diff and the trans, and new drive shaft ends.

1330 u-joint has caps of a 1310 u-joint, but larger body. 1350 u-joint has the same body of the 1330 but larger caps.

If sticking with 1330, look for a solid u-joint, non-greasable from Spicer. Then add u-joints to your PM maintenance plan. The grease path just makes them too fragile and if you're making good power, you don't want to have the u-joint break if everything else is up to the power.
 
Mike8675309 said:
If you don't want to change your driveshaft, then you'll need to go with 1330 U-joints. Personally, if I felt the rest of the components were up to it, I would switch over to 1350 series u-joints. But that would require new yokes at the diff and the trans, and new drive shaft ends.

1330 u-joint has caps of a 1310 u-joint, but larger body. 1350 u-joint has the same body of the 1330 but larger caps.

If sticking with 1330, look for a solid u-joint, non-greasable from Spicer. Then add u-joints to your PM maintenance plan. The grease path just makes them too fragile and if you're making good power, you don't want to have the u-joint break if everything else is up to the power.
Click to expand...

I have a drive line shop as a vender for our shop. I was planning on giving it to them to replace the joints and balance the drive shaft. I will be sticking with stock size U joints and its good to know about the greaseable vs nongreaseable joints. Just looking to put a good product back in vs just putting something in and not knowing anything about it.

Ken
 
kenewagner said:
I will be soon installing a Lentec Transmission. I am sure the U joint in the driveshaft, like the old tranny have over 145,000 miles on them, What do the big dogs recommend for new U joints. Is there a stronger joint than stock to install??

Ken
Click to expand...

Ken,

I think you are now at a point that you need to ditch the stock driveshaft and buy an aluminum one. I bought mine from the company listed below and have them installed in both of my SCs. The driveshaft comes complete ready to install with new u-joints, companion flange, slip yoke and is balanced to 8500 rpms. The end yoke, ujoints and flange was supposed to be cryo treated for extra strength but I don't know if they really were. These guys are the same company that made the driveshafts for a couple of group buys on on TCCoA a few years ago.


Precision Shaft Technologies, Inc
1717 N. Overbrook Ave.
Clearwater, FL 33755
PH: 727-442-1711
FX: 727-442-0949
Owner's name is Mark

89-93 3.8L AOD 57.80" driveshaft

The last one I bought (2007) was $425 plus $12 for shipping and was at my front door 4 days after placing the order.

David

PS: These are the driveshaft and transmission lengths for some other cars.

94-97 3.8L 4R70W 57" driveshaft (4R70W overall length 32")
89-95 3.8L M5R2 53.80" driveshaft (M5R2 overall length 35")
89-93 3.8L AOD 57.80" driveshaft (AOD overall length 31")
94-97 4.6L 4R70W 58.20" driveshaft (4R70W overall length 32")
93-98 Mark VIII 4R70W 58.20" driveshaft (4R70W overall length 32")
94-04 Crown Vic 4R70W 55.50" driveshaft (4R70W overall length 32")

David
 
If that is still the stock driveshaft ken, I would also recommend getting a new one. The place Dave N mentioned is the one I have been talking to as well. At the power level you will be at, failure of a stock driveshaft is inevitable. Usually the end yokes get twisted off the end of the shaft.
 
See this is all new to me. I will be looking it to this to be sure. I am glad I asked the question to begin with;) Looks like one will be in my future.

Ken
 
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