pics of my newest creation pic update 4-17

Kevin Leitem

Registered User
after chasing belt slip for years and getting tired of replacing belts often. I decided to go a new route. eliminate the jack shaft. Hopefully i will get the crank pulley this week from Charles at Magnum Powers. I am very optimistic that it will help a lot. It will be a 10 rib set up. also in the pics is the header crankcase evacuation kit. should free up a couple HP
 

Attachments

  • 000_0002.JPG
    000_0002.JPG
    390.9 KB · Views: 385
  • 000_0003.JPG
    000_0003.JPG
    324.8 KB · Views: 279
  • 000_0004.JPG
    000_0004.JPG
    382 KB · Views: 285
Last edited:
these pics should be better
 

Attachments

  • 000_0003_0001.JPG
    000_0003_0001.JPG
    334.3 KB · Views: 221
  • 000_0002_0001.JPG
    000_0002_0001.JPG
    340.5 KB · Views: 196
  • 000_0001.JPG
    000_0001.JPG
    338.4 KB · Views: 234
and with all the weight savings from the plywood... you should have no issue with 9's!



looks like its gonna be killer, but what is that gonna do for your revs? its like having another flywheel on the front of the motor!
 
and with all the weight savings from the plywood... you should have no issue with 9's!



looks like its gonna be killer, but what is that gonna do for your revs? its like having another flywheel on the front of the motor!

since I am no longer running an alternator, It will only have 1 belt. So it will probably be even lighter than the 10% Magnum Powers crank pulley
 
Charles actually talked to Gates. They said at the speed of the blower that a cogged belt would not work. last year the 8 rib going to the jackshaft was wearing out quicker than the 10 rib going to the SC.

with this set up my biggest blower pulley will be about the same OD as my smallest pulley was last year
 
You need to wrap the belt around the supercharger as much as possible it looks like you have less wrap with this set up. I think you will have issues if you dont do that.
 
You need to wrap the belt around the supercharger as much as possible it looks like you have less wrap with this set up. I think you will have issues if you dont do that.

the tensioner is just mocked in place, once there is tension it will have more wrap, plus having the solid idler on the tension side of the belt helps more than a stiffer tensioner on the slack side. on the tension side the belt wants to be in a straight line, if you force a bend in it it will put more force on the pulley

looking back at the pic it does look done , but the tensioner is kinda held in there by luck. once it is mounted the belt will be close together in the center
 
Last edited:
Wow..that's a big pulley :eek:

Are those diagonal plates coming off the driver's side head and the passenger side accessory bracket bolted onto the body of the car to keep the motor from moving ?

David
 
DAMN, that is a big pulley. You could almost bolt a motorcycle sprocket to that bad boy and go chain drive!
 
Wow..that's a big pulley :eek:

Are those diagonal plates coming off the driver's side head and the passenger side accessory bracket bolted onto the body of the car to keep the motor from moving ?

David

yes, I have been running them for years now, works great on keeping the engine in place and doubles as a strut tower brace
 
after chasing belt slip for years and getting tired of replacing belts often. I decided to go a new route. eliminate the jack shaft. Hopefully i will get the crank pulley this week from Charles at Magnum Powers. I am very optimistic that it will help a lot. It will be a 10 rib set up. also in the pics is the header crankcase evacuation kit. should free up a couple HP

Come on Kevin, this whole idea is awful and will never work.:p
 
I like the design. If you do have any issues with belt slip, you could always hammer a few nails in it to hold the belt in place. Wait....... :confused: :D

Thomas
 
Back
Top