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Dahoopd
04-08-2009, 11:44 PM
I just learned that one of the 3 year old solid motor mounts I have is broken. Last night I ran out for a few and decided to drive the bird, I don't drive it that often. Well I got on it a little just because I don't think its possible to not do on at least one outing. The cool weather made the car run better than I had ever felt. So I am sitting at a light that happens to be one block from my house. The light turns green and I am all over it. I hit second (grinding more like it) and the car took off. I mean to the point where it actually suprised me at the way it was running. Well I went to hit third and the supercharger made a deeper sound than it normally does, than died.

well.....the outcome was when I hit second the motor of course twisted, hit the hood and ripped the coupler on the IC. Lucky for me I was able to drift onto my street, down and into the driveway.

Looks like I will be getting a set of Chuck Warren motor mounts.

rickbtbird
04-08-2009, 11:49 PM
Where did you get your mounts from? I got a set in the 95, so far they're holding up.

TbirdSCFan
04-08-2009, 11:54 PM
Were these mounts missing the topside bracket limiter arms... perhaps? ;)

XR7 Dave
04-09-2009, 12:28 AM
The solid mounts don't have much strength in an upward pulling direction. In order to have success with them when you have significantly more torque than stock you have to modify the mount to provide a limiting function. I welded up my mount to close the window down to allow no more than 1/16" lift and reinforced the tongue that sticks out. It worked 100%. I launched my 440rwhp car with slicks at 4500rpm with only about 1/4" clearance to the stock hood. Broke my driveshaft but the mount (and my hood) are fine. :D

XxSlowpokexX
04-09-2009, 12:39 AM
Or you can buy chucks mounts.

The factory mounts had limiters built in but they wernt all that much and a majority of them tend to dissapear over time. The solid rubber mounts were ORIGINALLY made for taxi cabs as cheap replacements. Just so happens they fit a multitude of ford cars including ours. I used to rip them apart til I myself put in a limiter. Then I broke the tab and said..GOODBYE..That was on my 87 cougar...But same mount design,,Ripped them on my teal car as well and just bought chucks mounts and never looked back

quick35th
04-09-2009, 04:00 AM
I thought about buying the mounts that Chuck sells but instead I just welded my own solid motor mounts and called it a day. Night and day difference too, real metal solid motor mounts FTW!

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k114/quick35th/SDC15099.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k114/quick35th/SDC15101.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k114/quick35th/SDC15103.jpg

Shane
Glynn Motorsports

Dahoopd
04-09-2009, 07:35 AM
Where did you get your mounts from? I got a set in the 95, so far they're holding up.

I bought them from SCP and they are over the warranty.



The solid mounts don't have much strength in an upward pulling direction. In order to have success with them when you have significantly more torque than stock you have to modify the mount to provide a limiting function. I welded up my mount to close the window down to allow no more than 1/16" lift and reinforced the tongue that sticks out. It worked 100%. I launched my 440rwhp car with slicks at 4500rpm with only about 1/4" clearance to the stock hood. Broke my driveshaft but the mount (and my hood) are fine. :D

I didn't see the window mod until doing the search on broken motor mounts. I wish I would have known about it when I installed mine. Now I am just going to buy Chucks and be done with it.

David Neibert
04-09-2009, 12:29 PM
Shane,

I'm using steel mounts in my v8 SC and they feel the same as rubber mounts if not smoother, but I'm not sure how well they would work in a v6. Mainly concerned about the v6 harmonics and possible vibrations. Just having my torque strap too tight make a lot of racket that sounded like severe rod knock. I'm wondering if they would also cause knock sensor problems.

Since I had to ditch my torque strap when doing the long tube headers, I'd really like to do something to control engine movement. Probably should have modded the driver's side mount when I had the engine out :o

David

rickbtbird
04-09-2009, 12:33 PM
I bought them from SCP and they are over the warranty.




I didn't see the window mod until doing the search on broken motor mounts. I wish I would have known about it when I installed mine. Now I am just going to buy Chucks and be done with it.

Crap, same place I got mine.. Hope I don't "blow my top off" too!!

quick35th
04-09-2009, 12:40 PM
Shane,

I'm using steel mounts in my v8 SC and they feel the same as rubber mounts if not smoother,David

David,

I agree with you that the steel mounts are the same if not smoother then my old solid rubber mounts. I have not checked to see if the engine shakes the entire body of the car like it used to with the old mounts. I will say though that throttle response is MUCH better and obvious no engine movement. David I'm sure you remember since you were the one that pointed it out to me at the 2008 shootout that my motor moved around quite a bit, well that was because the nut that attaches the rubber mount to the lower bracket had vibrated loose along with one of the top bracket to block bolts :eek: .

Shane
Glynn Motorsports

David Neibert
04-09-2009, 12:54 PM
I bought them from SCP and they are over the warranty.




I didn't see the window mod until doing the search on broken motor mounts. I wish I would have known about it when I installed mine. Now I am just going to buy Chucks and be done with it.


Are the mounts you got from SCP the steel cased ones ?

David

TbirdSCFan
04-09-2009, 01:42 PM
Crap, same place I got mine.. Hope I don't "blow my top off" too!! Something was missing on dahoopd's setup that resulted in damage like that. It wasn't the mount. :rolleyes:

As long as you have something to stop the upward movement (e.g. the limiter-lever-in-D-bracket design of the original mounts), you have nothing to worry about. Your engine would have to make enough torque to fold a 1" wide, 1/4" thick of steel over in order to rip the mount in half.

BTW, its the drivers side mount that needs to be restrained. The pass side mount gets compressed. That is why they put the rubber snubber only on the driver side bracket.

kenewagner
04-09-2009, 03:23 PM
I installed an original David Neibert chain tie down. No problems showing up on my motor mounts;)

Ken

David Neibert
04-09-2009, 03:48 PM
I installed an original David Neibert chain tie down. No problems showing up on my motor mounts;)

Ken

That thing worked great...I hated to remove it.

http://members.tccoa.com/dneibert/Torque%20Strap.jpg

David

kenewagner
04-09-2009, 04:01 PM
That thing worked great...I hated to remove it.

http://members.tccoa.com/dneibert/Torque%20Strap.jpg

David

I thought between the red plug wires and the tie down my car would break into the 11s:D:D

Ken

David Neibert
04-09-2009, 04:08 PM
I thought between the red plug wires and the tie down my car would break into the 11s:D:D

Ken

That should do it...the 2.3 whipple might help a little too :D

David

Dahoopd
04-09-2009, 06:07 PM
Are the mounts you got from SCP the steel cased ones ?

David

Dave, these didn't have the steel case on them. The tongue is about a 1/4 inch from the bottom of the window. I cant believe that 3/4 of an inch would be enough to rip the mount. I guess its the luck of the draw.

TbirdSCFan
04-10-2009, 01:19 PM
I cant believe that 3/4 of an inch would be enough to rip the mount. That small rubber snubber is the key part of the lower bracket. Its about 1/2" thick and stops the upward movement. I have solid rubber mounts on my black car and the tongue on the D side mount actually pushes up against the snubber so I have no gap at all. Sounds like yours is missing or has crumbled away.

Rpdboss
04-10-2009, 09:19 PM
I've replaced the passenger side one twice. Each time it breaks it usually rips the large vac line that drives the brakes. Its never a good time to find out you can stop and your barreling toward 3 lanes of stoped traffic at a redlight.I had to dump it off on the shoulder and make a sharp right hand turn in the dirt/grass till i can stop!!:eek: first replacement was oem, second was autozone solid rubber and they wont give me a new one because they know I race it at the strip. Seems it voids some lifetime warrenty:rolleyes: