Clutch Pedal Freeplay

91BLOWNSC

Registered User
My clutch pedal on my 5-speed is loose for about the first 2-2.5 inches of play before it even starts pushing into the cylinder to release the clutch. The pedal itself that is underneath the dash is loosley attached to the rod itself. Like you'd have itf a bolt wasn't tight. Or maybe the whole where it was has become egg shaped. Its hard shifting so I know this is the problem. I just cannot see how the pedal itself attaches to the rod or where the extra play is coming from. Can anyone tell me if they have had this problem and how I can go about fixing it?

Thanks, mark.
 
I have the same problem. It's like the pedal is loose for a couple inches before it even makes contact. I've looked around but can't tell what's making it do that.
 
I have the same problem. It's like the pedal is loose for a couple inches before it even makes contact. I've looked around but can't tell what's making it do that.

I mean I can tell what it is. When i climb under the dash to look i can just freely move the pedal at the top because there is slack where the linkage is connected. Something has worn down in there, just unsure of what. Im going to rip it down tonight and see if I can see once and for all why its going that. Assuming I can fix it I should gain another couple inches of disengagement.
 
As I understand it, used pedal assemblies with serviceable bushings are hot items... I think some owners even go so far as to convert to assemblies out of other cars (mustang?).
 
Look at the 'HELP!' products in the parts store for bushings.

Word of warning, I replaced mine with the most solid bushing that fit, and since my master push rod was already egg shaped from previously worn out bushing, it ate right through the new one in about 3 mo.

I need to pull the entire pedal assy out and fig out a new way to do it, after making the hole round again somehow.

I'm thinking of using brass tubing to make sleeves with and finding something more solid than hard rubber for the new bushing.

Let me know if you figure something out, I'm hoping to fix it right for the last time.
 
possibility

maybe this is a really stupid question, but i have the same thing going on, is it possible to just drill out and put a bolt through and put a nut on the other end, or is the point of the bushing to create an easy failure point to avoid more costly damage?
 
Look at the 'HELP!' products in the parts store for bushings.

Word of warning, I replaced mine with the most solid bushing that fit, and since my master push rod was already egg shaped from previously worn out bushing, it ate right through the new one in about 3 mo.

I need to pull the entire pedal assy out and fig out a new way to do it, after making the hole round again somehow.

I'm thinking of using brass tubing to make sleeves with and finding something more solid than hard rubber for the new bushing.

Let me know if you figure something out, I'm hoping to fix it right for the last time.


I ended up ordering a brand new master cylinder (with a new linkage) because my linkage was so far out of round it was beyond repair. It only cost me 39 dollars plus shipping for it. I found that some after market kits COME with the bushing that is needed. But I will also try to find a brass one...at least something that will hold up better. My clutch pedal itself was totally chewed away. Im not sure how it got so bad so fast, there is only 90,000 miles on that car. Go figure.


What is the best way to remove the clutch pedal from the car? It seems like I have to hold the bolt head with a wrench to be able to get that nut off, but I dont think I have space to get one up in there. Or do i? Suggestions?
 
maybe this is a really stupid question, but i have the same thing going on, is it possible to just drill out and put a bolt through and put a nut on the other end, or is the point of the bushing to create an easy failure point to avoid more costly damage?

Im sure there is. Except on the exact opposite side of the clutch pedal you have the another stud that holds the electronics portion of it. I guess you could weld a bolt on there. Just grind the other one off maybe? You can't literally bolt it down because i needs to be able to rotate slightly on the shaft. So I think you will still run into the same problem even if you do do that.
 
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