No Start Problem

Flex

Registered User
He guys,

My engine hasn't wanted to start for a few weeks. I got a new DIS as the same thing caused a no start last year. Nothing changed but I got a false crank pos sensor indication (upshift light) due to my brother not grounding the DIS.

So I bought a new CP sensor and replaced it with the balancer on. All back together on Saturday and still nothing. I am really pissed at myself because it occurs to me that I never checked the balancer and when I get under the car again, boom, broken balancer.

So I spend all day yesterday again putting on my freshly painted BHJ and the damn thing will not even sputter. I tried both DIS modules. One makes the tac jump and the other dosen't. Tried a differentr coil pack and still nothing.

Without doing the entire pin out test, what should I check. Igntion switch?
 
Well, I believe I found the most likely culprit thanks to Mike Harms. No fuel pressure. The pump came on last week and I could smell the unburnt fuel in the induction. Now nothing. Only two drops came out of the Schrader valve when I pressed it in.
 
I've been having a similar problem on my 89. If I spray some starting fluid into the intake and jumper the fuel pump relay at the EEC test plug it'll crank up and run. If I take the fuel pump relay jumper off, it'll continue to run but if I goose the throttle it'll stall. With the jumper still connected it'll rev up when I goose the throttle. I'm still trying to figure this one out and am wondering if the EEC is bad. I'll try swapping it out next.
 
Man I hope not Mike. I'm thinking this is simply the stock fuel pump burning out. I have several Walbro 255 hp's and I was planning to do a swap with one anyways. Let me know what you come up with in case it is not just the pump.
 
I've been having a similar problem on my 89. If I spray some starting fluid into the intake and jumper the fuel pump relay at the EEC test plug it'll crank up and run. If I take the fuel pump relay jumper off, it'll continue to run but if I goose the throttle it'll stall. With the jumper still connected it'll rev up when I goose the throttle. I'm still trying to figure this one out and am wondering if the EEC is bad. I'll try swapping it out next.

Mike,

I could be wrong, but I think the test jumper works on a different circuit from the regular fuel pump power wire. So you may have a problem in the regular power wire, but not in the test circuit. I think I saw this in the EVTM.
 
I've got an EVTM manual and according to the wiring diagram, the EEC test plug is in series with the connection from the fuel pump relay coil to the EEC. So when you jumper the test plug, it is just bypassing the connection to the EEC pin 22 and energizing the relay coil by shunting it to ground turning it on. The other side of relay coil is connected to the cutoff switch in the trunk which then goes to 12 volts ignition on. With it jumpered I can pull either the relay out or trip the switch and the pump shuts off. I thought there was a fuel pump relay in the IRCM but not according to the EVTM. If there is and it isn't shown in the EVTM that could be the problem also.
 
Where exactly on the car is the diode? A friend thought it was in the under hood fuse panel. I don't remember seeing anything that looked remotely like a diode in the fuel pump/level sensor assembly and I work with all sorts of types. Did I overlook something?
 
Where exactly on the car is the diode? A friend thought it was in the under hood fuse panel. I don't remember seeing anything that looked remotely like a diode in the fuel pump/level sensor assembly and I work with all sorts of types. Did I overlook something?

Wiring diagram says it sits @/near the connection to the fuel pump. Could appear as a bump in a wrapped harness.
 
Steve,

Home for a few hours on a pass from the hospital. You didn't tell me if you got the inlet yet. Have you picked it up?
 
LOL. It's my thread. Read your pm bro. Glad you like the inlet. Let me know how it works out.
 
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