What if.....

debo92sc

Registered User
This goes out to all the long time SC owners. I had an SC for give or take 5 years but I had to sell it 2 years ago cause I was moving but I severly miss the car! I may have the opportunity to do it again with a different one but the question I have for everyone is what if you had the opportunity to start fresh with a new car? Would there be some things you would do differently now that you are knowledgable on what theses cars are all about? Or would you not change anything at all? I really just want one I can enjoy with out all the headache. Is is possible to have a high 12 to low 13 sec SC everyday driver with no headaches :confused:? Im not a drag strip guy but I like my car to be some what fast and look nice! Just a thought let me know what you guys think!

Thanks for the input!

Kyle
 
High 12 low 13 second POWER reliable..Yes..lots of track time would change that answer..But for a daily driver I'd say yes.

What I would look for is a clean example to start with. I have been seeing lower mile cars going for good prices lately. That will save you potentially on needing any internal engine work tio get to where you want to be power wise

Also rather then set a 1/4 time or HP goal set a budget with a goal in mind. From there you can see where you can go or if you can reach that goal.

And Welcome back
 
Things I would not do:
- Under no reason would I invest money in a AOD car, ever
- Attempt to run a M90 to 93249832098% OD
- Bolt pattern swap, no longer needed now that Brad has pumped out a full line up of MN12 wheels
- Buy a prepackaged exhaust (Dyno max cat back)
- Mustang V6 headers

Things I would do again:
- Modify the suspension with the Koni Yellows/Vogtland spring combo
- Upgrade the brakes
- Upgrade the stock speakers/head unit
- 94/95 SC with 96/97 Headlights & Hood
- Heads and cam the first time the car is ripped apart
- Change the head gaskets before they pop
 
Things I would not do:
- Under no reason would I invest money in a AOD car, ever
- Attempt to run a M90 to 93249832098% OD
- Bolt pattern swap, no longer needed now that Brad has pumped out a full line up of MN12 wheels
- Buy a prepackaged exhaust (Dyno max cat back)
- Mustang V6 headers

Things I would do again:
- Modify the suspension with the Koni Yellows/Vogtland spring combo
- Upgrade the brakes
- Upgrade the stock speakers/head unit
- 94/95 SC with 96/97 Headlights & Hood
- Heads and cam the first time the car is ripped apart
- Change the head gaskets before they pop

I would have started with a car in better shape
I would have gone with a twin screw right off the bat
I would still do a AOD with valve body and good TQ converter (Sorry Tom)
I would have save all my pennys and built a strong bottom end with a cam and good heads for a good foundation

I would not have used mustang headers or redo the exhaust over & over
I would not have spent my money and time on a M112
I would not have modified the inlet on the lower intake
I would not have gone with the 42lb injectors only to upgrade to 60s
I would not have gone 76MM maf & 75MM TB

Ken
 
I would have done what I did for a foundation, but I would have modded my car differently. I bought a car in good condition with a blown motor for very cheap, then put a new (read: reman.) motor in. During the process of the motor swap, I would have ported the heads, used MLS gaskets, and ARP head studs. I also would have put a much bigger cam in my car than it currently has. I think with that longblock setup with an S-Port and MP inlet would be a great street car, and not cost a ton of money. I have under $4k into my car including the purchase price of the car and mods and made 250rwhp and 361lb-ft, and still have a lot of room to increase power without tearing into the motor.

In short, it all depends on your budget.
 
I'm trying to start fresh with another SC this weekend. Would I do it again.... yes. I haven't driven an SC in over 2 years.

What I've learned is that my mod list will look like this.

1. Catless exhaust and a good resonator and mufflers
2. 5% overdrive SC pulley
3. 42lb injectors and 255 lph fuel pump and 76mm MAF
4. Dyno tune (not taking chances with sampling tubes and what not. After seeing stock SC's run almost 100 duty cycle on the injectors I'm not messing with it)
5. BHJ balancer for piece of mind
6. underdrive pulleys
7. gears
8. good tires for drag racing (Quicktime Pro's or ET Street's)
9. late model blower
10. MP inlet plenum

Then after those first 10 mods I'll do a throttle body upgrade and intake. Then I'll get a bigger intercooler and when that's done I'll do more overdrive on the blower and jackshaft and tune it again.

The car I'm after is an AOD and I have a lentech valve body to swap into it. I would like to counter Tom's statement of stay away from an AOD by saying this:

If you want to make big power numbers on the dyno get a 5-speed car. If you want to go fast down the 1/4 mile get an automatic. The auto's are much more consistant and better for drag racing. If you don't plan to go down the drag strip then a 5-speed is a fun car if you enjoy shifting your own gears.
 
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If I was to start fresh with a new SC after being out of the game a while the only thing I would do is put a nice set of rims and tires on it, that's it..............:D
 
As far as what I would do....

Suspension wise:

I alway start with the suspension

DO you like firm or semi firm..I like firm do I went with 1.5 drop linear rate S/T spring. The vogtlands are nice if you like less of a drop and a slightly less aggressive feel (less firm)..There are many choices out there however those are my two.

Shocks...Konis are nice but after buying them fo r my stang I cant see to part with a bunch more $$$$$ on ones for my Tbird. I bought some Shocks and struts from a place on EBay. S/T is the manufacturer.

Make sure your motor mounts, an dall bushings in your car are in ecellant shape..If not change them. Stay away from Poly except for the sway bars and perhaps motor mounts and tranny mount. As I mentioned Doug F on this board makes delrin bushings for our rear suspension...That would be my #1 choice..Best mod to date(or close to it)

I like the hub swap because it makes your brake and wheel system mustang freindly. Replacement parts be them rims or brake componants become easy. Definitely if you go thsi route go with the cobra front and rotors, cobra front calipers with sc modified calipers and brackets. I run 99 cobra rims and brakes on one of my SC's and 98 cobra rims and brakes on the other..Love it

Motor wise a set of ported stock valve heads and a nice 520 or so lift cam...Late model S ported blower, MP inlet and 85mm TB..3.5 inch intake tube and I like the lightning 90m MAF allthough that is alway sup for debate,,,

upgraded IC is a good idea..And do the raised top if you feel inclined

42lb injectors, 255lph pump..If done right this wont cost you all that much and net you over 300rwhp.

If you really want to spend the $$$$$ then the whole above combination will go into buckwild mode and cost allot more.
 
That's why one of my first mods listed is 76mm MAF and 42 lb injectors w/ a 255 lph pump. That leaves headroom for a while.
 
i wouldnt have gotten an AOD the second time around, but now im looking to trade mine for one so lets see how that works out.
 
Next time around I think I would look into a better IC, keep the heat down!

I would do the exhaust, true dual and be done with it.

Nice rims and tires

Tunes are a definate.

Short throw shifter if it's a manual!

I would call it a day if it was a low milage car at this point and enjoy it, and save my money to do it right when I wanted to make her fast!

Along the way you could add the bolt ons that you would want an keep.




Stephen
 
As far as what I would do....

Suspension wise:

I alway start with the suspension

DO you like firm or semi firm..I like firm do I went with 1.5 drop linear rate S/T spring. The vogtlands are nice if you like less of a drop and a slightly less aggressive feel (less firm)..There are many choices out there however those are my two.

Shocks...Konis are nice but after buying them fo r my stang I cant see to part with a bunch more $$$$$ on ones for my Tbird. I bought some Shocks and struts from a place on EBay. S/T is the manufacturer.

Make sure your motor mounts, an dall bushings in your car are in ecellant shape..If not change them. Stay away from Poly except for the sway bars and perhaps motor mounts and tranny mount. As I mentioned Doug F on this board makes delrin bushings for our rear suspension...That would be my #1 choice..Best mod to date(or close to it)

I like the hub swap because it makes your brake and wheel system mustang freindly. Replacement parts be them rims or brake componants become easy. Definitely if you go thsi route go with the cobra front and rotors, cobra front calipers with sc modified calipers and brackets. I run 99 cobra rims and brakes on one of my SC's and 98 cobra rims and brakes on the other..Love it

Motor wise a set of ported stock valve heads and a nice 520 or so lift cam...Late model S ported blower, MP inlet and 85mm TB..3.5 inch intake tube and I like the lightning 90m MAF allthough that is alway sup for debate,,,

upgraded IC is a good idea..And do the raised top if you feel inclined

42lb injectors, 255lph pump..If done right this wont cost you all that much and net you over 300rwhp.

If you really want to spend the $$$$$ then the whole above combination will go into buckwild mode and cost allot more.

This set-up is very close to one SC I purchased on here. But I currently have a unmolested SC 5-speed that's had the entire front suspension redone. (Included the struts).

I plan to:
- Improve the brakes (Cobra brake and Mustang Hub swap - redrill rear hubs)
- Cut springs (May have to go with Stiff lowering springs if it is not firm enough)
- Get an S-port, MP-II, or 94 and have it Magnaported.
+ 42's,
- 255lb, 93 up gas tank
- upgrade MAS and TB (Looking for a deal)
+ Port exhaust manifolds, new down tubes/cats/resonator w/ the dual 2 1/2 folks here have been commenting on. Maybe mufflers? I have to hear it first.
I have some NIB Flowmasters and no name Turbo mufflers all 2 1/2.
+ Underdrives
- New interior
+ New wheels
- Paint it myself or prep it and let MAACO shot it.

I have a $1700.00 budget but I have everything with an +

Now if Dave begins selling a Whipple or AR kit then all bets are off.
 
The best advice I can give you is decide on your ultimate goals ahead of time so you don't replace the same part more than once. Building a car in stages makes a lot of sense in some ways but ultimately it costs a lot more. I bought my SC then bought a ported blower. A year or two later I replaced that with an MPX, so ultimately the ported blower was just a waste of money. I've had cars with Mustang GT, Cobra and Cobra R brakes--decide which one you really want and go with it the first time around. Now, if it were me and I didn't want to spend a fortune I'd do something like this:

Suspension:
Mustang GT calipers
ST springs
89 SC sway bars
Koni shocks (expensive, but there's really no other good option imo)

Engine:
Call Dave D, tell him your budget and take his advice.

Do that and you'll have a car that handles decent, rides nice and has pretty good torque. You haven't touched the heads or cam so you can do that down the road without spending any money twice. Personally, I do like the Mustang bolt pattern swap but it adds about $1500 to the price of the car.
 
1) Regardless of your ultimate plans, start with a solid foundation. Buy a lower mileage car with good paint, interior and mechanicals to start with. The money you'll spend up front will save you exponentially down the road. These things can nickel-dime you to death, and you can easily see your performance budget consumed by a multitude of mundane and distracting repairs. You can't polish a turd, although many have tried.

2) As stated above, have a plan laid out ahead of time to meet your expectations. Do lots of research, then execute. You'll save time, money and frustration.

3) You'll find the "automatic vs. manual transmission" camps split approximately 50%/50%, so buy what you personally want. There are members here from both sides that are equally happy with their choice.



Come to think of it, this advice is equally applicable to a performance build or restoration.

JD
 
I really appreciate all the responses guys... I am looking at a 95 5-speed with 118000 miles on it with a few mods. It has a slight starting issue i guess the starter has been replaced and the ignition switch? he says if you rock it in gear it will fix the problem temporarly? The car was in an accident on the driver side that involved the door and the quarter panel which was repaired correctly (I saw the before and after pics) and the quarter was bought new not fixed. The other down fall is because of the accident its on a salvage title? The car is perfect otherwise so what do you guys think about the problems and what do you think its worth?

Thanks
Kyle
 
Due to the salvage title, just make sure it's what you want because you'll have a heck of a time ever selling for anything more than small change.

As for the repair, I would be more concerned about rust. If the undercarriage is rusty then it's not a good candidate, but if the underside is CLEAN, then good deal. Pay close attention to anywhere that there were repairs. There is nothing wrong with a professional repair, but if the welds were not sealed properly, they present an ideal breeding ground for incestuous rust.

As for the starting problem, send Ricardo a PM. He knows all about that problem. :D
 
Perfect to walk away from sounds more like it. If you get a basket case car you'll get tired of the SC within a couple months and fizzle out. Seen it many times.

Hey...I resent that. My car is not a basket case;)
 
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