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David Neibert
05-18-2009, 05:18 PM
I've heard a few people mention using a 6G alternator on an SC. What does that alternator fit (what car/motor) ? What needs to be done to the wiring and mounting on my 91 ?

David

backtobirds
05-18-2009, 06:13 PM
That's a good question. I know my LX alternator wouldn't work on the SC bracket. I'll bet if you measure the depth and center-to-center distance between the mounting holes PA-Performance would be able to come up with something.

gogo5.0
05-18-2009, 07:57 PM
That series might come on the duratec taurus 3.0. I have had "some experience" with that motor, lately, and have come across some info regarding that alternator in relation to the duratec. They do come with 130 amp units. There are two versions of the alternator: 3rd gen's do not run through the PCM, while 4th gen's do run through the PCM. I have a 3rd gen sitting on the floor at work if you would like some measurements and/or photos. I would be glad to provide those.

I am assuming that this is the alt you are talking about. And I do know what happens when I assume.:p
Let me know if you need anything.

benny

Nettlesd
05-18-2009, 09:18 PM
I've heard a few people mention using a 6G alternator on an SC.

David

Personally, I would hold out for a 7G.

Mike8675309
05-18-2009, 11:14 PM
I've heard a few people mention using a 6G alternator on an SC. What does that alternator fit (what car/motor) ? What needs to be done to the wiring and mounting on my 91 ?

David

I believe you would need to upgrade the output from the alternator significantly. I highly doubt the stock wire is up to handling the amperage that a 6G can put out. I would upgrade to 6gauge cable.

I want to upgrade my alternator now that I'm likely to have a bunch of fans, a pump, snow system, fuel system etc... plus a decent radio.

91BlackBird
05-19-2009, 07:33 AM
6G's are awesome and the mounting is the same as a 3G.
I have on on my 87 5.0L and it is the same style mount.
I don't believe they would fit an SC as a 5.0L alternator will not.
The 6G does not run through the pcm on newer cars(Chrysler only) it is internally regulated just like the 3G.
They where on everything in the 2000s as far as i can remember but the one that fits the 5.0L's comes of the mustang 3.8L's.

XR7 Dave
05-19-2009, 08:19 AM
I believe you would need to upgrade the output from the alternator significantly. I highly doubt the stock wire is up to handling the amperage that a 6G can put out. I would upgrade to 6gauge cable.

I want to upgrade my alternator now that I'm likely to have a bunch of fans, a pump, snow system, fuel system etc... plus a decent radio.

I'm not sure what you are talking about here Mike. The output from the 6G is only 130 amps (some say its really about 110-120) but either way it's not going to overwhelm stock wiring. The stock alternator wire on an SC appears to be at least 6awg but might be 4awg already.

I have installed this alternator on an SC. It fits ok but there are a couple issues/things to be aware of.

1) Make sure you get the harness plug with it as they are different and you'll have to splice your wires.

2) The main battery lug is on the opposite side of the alternator. Damon said he reclocked the housing, but when I tried to do this the alternator I got was stuck together so hard that I was afraid of breaking something. I was able to re-route the stock wiring so that it would reach with relative ease so I had no problem with that.

3) The top mounting hole may or may not be tapped depending on what the application was I guess so you may have to find a bolt/nut to put on the top.

4) In my case the car had UD pulleys and required a shim behind the pulley. This is not really any different than an SC alternator depending on what year it was for so this isn't really an issue at all.

Normally an SC with UD's seems to put out about 13v at idle but this one seems to be more efficient at low rpms putting out 14.4v. Other than that don't know much about it but it seems fine so far.

Cool Runner
05-19-2009, 08:22 AM
Edit: DOH! I was incorrectly thinking 3G so disregard my post.

XR7 Dave
05-19-2009, 08:27 AM
To fit the 6g alt just do what 3.8 Mustang guys do to fit their alt onto the SC Brackets. Just some grinding of 2 spots to accomodate the larger size of the alt. The mounting points line up well with just a spacer or 2 needed on the top mount.

Make sure you get a 6g out of a 02+ 3.8 mustang as that one is sure to work and grab the pigtails out of the donor car as well.

I can't speak to what wiring to change because I just used my stock 98 alt in the SC bracket so no wiring changes were necessary.

No, you are talking about a 3G or some other alternator. The 6G doesn't require any grinding. It's smaller than a stock SC alternator. I just put one on last week.

95badbird
05-19-2009, 08:53 AM
6G front view...

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/6Galternator01.jpg

6G back view...

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/6Galternator02.jpg

wiring diagram...

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/6G-ALT_wiring_GRY.gif

another...

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/6G-ALT_wiring_WHT.gif

connection views...

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/6Galternator03.jpg

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/6Galternator04.jpg

95badbird
05-19-2009, 08:54 AM
and if you are curious about other alternators.....

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=63

KMT
05-19-2009, 10:22 AM
>The output from the 6G is only 130 amps

At idle under full load, sure...but we're talking about a 200 amp unit.

Mike is correct - 10 GA wire/cable as an example is not large enough to handle 130A in an engine compartment. A wire swap to 6GA is a common mod, written up frequently when adopting this/larger alternators to older/other cars.

One example: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/07/6GAlternator/ (step 9)

If you're considering the 6G mod, do it right and be sure you get your amps worth out of the change over :)

XxSlowpokexX
05-19-2009, 10:58 AM
The factory wiring is fine. I have been running this alternator for over a year with no issues. Keep in mind factory is 110 amp. Its not liek going from a 65amp fox alternator to a 130 amp 3G.

As been mentioned they are shown to be 110-130amp in ratings. I have heard both. This may hav esomething to do with how they are rated.

The posative is smaller then a 3g...More efficient..More amps at idle even with UD pulleys//And it requires no grinding and looks factory.

As Dave said I reclocked mine. A plastic hammer ill help with separation. You can also just rerun the wiring. If you do that the little L bracket behind it can even be refitted

Dave what size shim did you use? After doing my heads and cam I have a belt alighnment issue and noticed no shim behind pulley...So I'm wondering if I just lost it somewhere.

Anyway guys..I wouldnt even thing of a 3G at this point:O)

XR7 Dave
05-19-2009, 11:23 AM
>The output from the 6G is only 130 amps

At idle under full load, sure...but we're talking about a 200 amp unit.

Mike is correct - 10 GA wire/cable as an example is not large enough to handle 130A in an engine compartment. A wire swap to 6GA is a common mod, written up frequently when adopting this/larger alternators to older/other cars.

One example: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/07/6GAlternator/ (step 9)

If you're considering the 6G mod, do it right and be sure you get your amps worth out of the change over :)

Guys, I just looked it up because you are driving me nuts. The stock SC alternator wire is 6awg. It's plenty big enough already.

Damon, it was a small shim, maybe .060". The pulley runs pretty close to the case. Without the shim it just rubbed. I haven't driven it much though so I'm not sure if it may have issues down the road. For now everything looks fine but I did not get a straight edge and check it to the mm.

David Neibert
05-19-2009, 11:34 AM
No, you are talking about a 3G or some other alternator. The 6G doesn't require any grinding. It's smaller than a stock SC alternator. I just put one on last week.

Dave or Damon,

What car/motor does the 6G needed for an SC come out of, or better yet where can I buy it and the wiring pigtail ?

David

Mike8675309
05-19-2009, 08:52 PM
I'm not sure what you are talking about here Mike. The output from the 6G is only 130 amps (some say its really about 110-120) but either way it's not going to overwhelm stock wiring. The stock alternator wire on an SC appears to be at least 6awg but might be 4awg already.


I saw the reference to PA-Performance and immediately thought 200amp. Oh well

Good to hear it might fit.



Guys, ... you are driving me nuts.


Believe me, the feeling can be mutual. One point here is for people that have already modified things. Saying "stock" is fine but it's more useful to specify the gauge you want then add that it's the stock size already.

Folks forget that often you can't just swap parts and hook them up and just be happy.

Jamez
05-19-2009, 11:33 PM
eBay item number 130303891552

Tim Groth
05-20-2009, 03:21 PM
David,

Here's the orginal discussion on this swap...just say's a Mustang Alternator.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98495

I did a search on ebay for mine when I bought it for 6G alternator...I beleive mine was for use on a 96 Mustang.

-Tim

Pablo94SC
09-08-2009, 03:27 PM
FYI - the car Dave was talking about is my car. I'll be happy to take pictures of the install if anyone is interested and post them up.

Now back to my search on fuel pump wiring upgrades. :)

David Neibert
09-08-2009, 03:46 PM
FYI - the car Dave was talking about is my car. I'll be happy to take pictures of the install if anyone is interested and post them up.

Now back to my search on fuel pump wiring upgrades. :)

Paul,

Please post the pictures, because I'm still planning to get a 6G installed over the winter. I'm also ditching this ~~~ optima red top battery.

David

Ira R.
09-08-2009, 03:51 PM
Paul,

Please post the pictures, because I'm still planning to get a 6G installed over the winter. I'm also ditching this ~~~ optima red top battery.

David

Absolutely dump the battery. I've gone through two of them and they don't last at all. Now I use the stock Motorcraft one and have never had a problem.

Ira

Pablo94SC
09-08-2009, 03:56 PM
I'll head on out to the garage and snap you a few pictures of the mounting and wiring Dave did. As for the battery, I've been super happy with the gold/yellow top Autozone batteries. I fell asleep in my car one night listening to the radio while trying to sober up after a pub crawl. 6 hours later the car fired right up without missing a beat.

Pics on the way.

David Neibert
09-08-2009, 04:01 PM
I'll head on out to the garage and snap you a few pictures of the mounting and wiring Dave did. As for the battery, I've been super happy with the gold/yellow top Autozone batteries. I fell asleep in my car one night listening to the radio while trying to sober up after a pub crawl. 6 hours later the car fired right up without missing a beat.

Pics on the way.

I was happy with the AZ battery too (it's in my 93 now)....only reason I changed it was because the yellow didn't match my red plug wires and tensioner pulleys.

David

Ira R.
09-08-2009, 04:02 PM
I was happy with the AZ battery too (it's in my 93 now)....only reason I changed it was because the yellow didn't match my red plug wires and tensioner pulleys.

David

Somehow I knew that LOL

Just like you knew that one of the reasons I switched back was because it's all black again.

Ira

Pablo94SC
09-08-2009, 04:15 PM
I've considered the Autozone red top for the same reasons! LOL

Here are the pictures. It's hard to tell, but the middle wire in the harness is the one that's cut.

Edit: Got this one on eBay for about $99 with the wiring harness included.

rzimmerl
09-08-2009, 05:14 PM
Very nice, do you have a link to the Ebay seller?

Tim Groth
09-08-2009, 05:14 PM
That's the same exact Alternator I purchased on ebay as well. Did you have any fitment issues with the pulley?

The Stock SC Alternator Pulley wanted to stickout just a shade further than it did on the OE unit...I see you have the UD pulley but hwo did it work?

-Tim

Pablo94SC
09-08-2009, 05:30 PM
Ryan, No link. I just did a search for 6G alternator or similar and quite a few popped up.

Tim, Dave did the install when he was working on my car. He mentioned earlier in this thread that he had to use a small shim to get the pulley to fit properly and not rub the alt case. Otherwise, I've had no issues with it at all.

89tird
09-08-2009, 05:47 PM
Crown victorias, IIRC 00-02 come with 6g alternators, my 01 p71 came with a 6g 135 amp, 2003 and up come with 200 amp but I think they are PCM controlled.

If you want a new 200 amp don't buy from db electrical or quickstart.. just my .02

Pablo94SC
11-24-2009, 08:00 PM
Alternator apparently took a dump on me. Started noticing interior lights dimming, then the radio would shut off on me when I rolled the windows up/down (when they both stopped). Finally, car didn't start and battery was about dead when I checked the voltage. Off to find a new one from Advance. Looks like the part number we need is 92510 or 92523 (Remy Delco new 6g, 110A). I'll let you guys know what I find out after I have the old alternator tested and get the new one installed.

XxSlowpokexX
11-24-2009, 08:04 PM
There is a guy on corrall.net that sells new or rebuilt units. I cracked the terminal on mine and bought a new one from this dude...Came with an 8 rib pulley the same size as found on my SCI UD pulley kit...So I left it.

If you do a search youll find him on there..Great to deal with and it fit perfect with no belt issues

Pablo94SC
11-24-2009, 08:29 PM
Thanks for the tip, but I think I'm going to go with the new one from Advance and get the lifetime warranty. That peace of mind is worth a little extra money.

XxSlowpokexX
11-24-2009, 08:41 PM
He offers a warrenty as well. From what he mentione dis that many of the ones out there are made in china and inferior...Of course its easier to go to [email protected]!

Tim Groth
11-24-2009, 08:44 PM
Alternator apparently took a dump on me. Started noticing interior lights dimming, then the radio would shut off on me when I rolled the windows up/down (when they both stopped). Finally, car didn't start and battery was about dead when I checked the voltage. Off to find a new one from Advance. Looks like the part number we need is 92510 or 92523 (Remy Delco new 6g, 110A). I'll let you guys know what I find out after I have the old alternator tested and get the new one installed.

At least the replacement is 1/2 the cost of a new SC Alternator. :rolleyes: How many miles before it went out?

Also I determined my alternator pulley alignment issues (for anyone else doing this swap). Part of this swap involves swapping over the SC alternator pulley to the new 6G unit...I beleive the SC pulley has more ribs and over all is a different diameter sized pulley also. Now I beleive I had the parts store replacement SC alternator before the swap.

What I determined is the aternator shafts and pulleys are designed differently. The pulley from the SC alternator I had had pulley with a designed lip on the back to work as a spacer on the shaft. The 6G pulley did not, but rather the Shaft was made with a spacer on it...Combining the 2 made for the difference in alignment since I was now double spaced. With the Diagram below I was trying to use pulley design 1 on alternator design 2...and there you have it. The used of a belt sander on a level surface helped me remedy this issue in pretty quick fashion.

This also proved to be the case this weekend when I swapped an OE FORD Alternator Pulley onto an Advance Auto SC Alternator...same alternator but the shaft design is completely different.

Posted below is a MSpaint Diagram.

-Tim

Pablo94SC
11-24-2009, 09:13 PM
11k miles, give or take.

EDIT: The front case of the 92523 has a lip on it around the pulley shaft that interferes with the SC alternator pulley. Even if spacers are used to get the pulley to clear the case, the pulley sits too far away from the case and causes belt alignment issues. I'm going to have them order the 92510 and remove the supplied pulley to verify if the front case is the same as the one I got from eBay (supposedly a 8262-11 from a F650/750 diesel).

Pablo94SC
12-12-2009, 01:25 PM
Tim, I now know what you're talking about with the shaft. The front case on all of the 6G alternators I looked at from Advance have that lip you mentioned the protrudes around the shaft. You'd have to grind the front of the case down to get our pulleys to work (with a small spacer on the backside of the pulley for clearance).

I ended up taking my alternator to Vee-Co here in Memphis and had them rebuild it similar to their police cruiser ones. High output at idle with slightly upped peak output (~185A).

Even with my UD pulleys, output should be 65-70A at idle which will pretty much cover the needs of all the electrical components without having to draw power from the battery. Cost was $300, but that's no different than getting a new SC one... and I know it's going to last.

David Neibert
03-23-2011, 06:05 PM
Paul,

Did you ever determine what the application was for the alternator you had rebuilt ? I've decided to go ahead and buy a 6g and so far the only place that has info on what it takes to make one that bolts up to an SC is Ohio Generator and their list price for a 200 amp unit is around $425 for a new unit.

David

XxSlowpokexX
03-23-2011, 06:58 PM
CHeck corrall.net and look for a guy selling the 6G..He sells new or rebuilt and will supply correct size pulley. His name is green something or other

David Neibert
11-19-2012, 05:52 PM
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39292&d=1252440821

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39294&d=1252440821


Are the wire colors on this 6G pigtail the same as the factory harness ? If not what color goes to what ? I've got a new 6G alt with pigtail about 6 months ago and I'm finally motivated to install it. BTW, is this picture showing a clocked rear cover, or is that how it comes stock ?

David

decipha
11-19-2012, 07:16 PM
don't be afraid of the powah!!!

i stuffed a 500 amp alternator on one of my supercoupes

can't help you on the wiring differences between the two alternators, i can say that ford typically keeps their connectors the same though

shoalcracker
11-19-2012, 07:33 PM
DN

I've installed the G6 presuming its the same unit that came out of Texas via eBay.

There should be a wiring document with the unit.

I'm not a fan of cutting and splicing so mine is repinned to the original harness so that may hamper wiring ID. I did not use the supplied pigtail.

Car is tough to view as in storage but I believe to wire... white. position closest motor and green closest to fender within existing harness.

Hope that helps
Paul

David Neibert
04-10-2013, 12:04 PM
Still haven't gotten around to installing the new 6g alternator I bought last year, but trying to get motivated to do it this weekend. If I do, I'll post some pictures on what color wires from the pigtail goes to what color wires in the stock harness, because that's the only thing I'm still not 100% clear on.

David

shoalcracker
04-10-2013, 08:02 PM
DN

Just checked car.

I'm repinned to new pigtail so original wires. (93)

From Drivers side to new pigtail connected to alternator.

Slot 1 Green/Red Stripe
Slot 2 Empty
Slot 3 White (Passenger Side)

Hope this makes sense.

Paul

David Neibert
04-11-2013, 11:46 AM
DN

Just checked car.

I'm repinned to new pigtail so original wires. (93)

From Drivers side to new pigtail connected to alternator.

Slot 1 Green/Red Stripe
Slot 2 Empty
Slot 3 White (Passenger Side)

Hope this makes sense.

Paul

Paul,

Yes, that makes sense and it helps a lot. Did you use the existing main power wire and just reroute it to reach a little further or did you clock the housing ?

Thanks, David

Miller
04-11-2013, 11:54 AM
I have this installed on my car. I got a larger guage wire and made it a little longer. Its basically just clip the wires and slap it in its very strait forward

* just realized mine may be different being a 94...idk tho

David Neibert
04-11-2013, 12:09 PM
I have this installed on my car. I got a larger guage wire and made it a little longer. Its basically just clip the wires and slap it in its very strait forward

* just realized mine may be different being a 94...idk tho

Nothing is ever that easy on my cars.

David

Miller
04-11-2013, 04:47 PM
Mine either thats why it looks how it does

shoalcracker
04-11-2013, 08:05 PM
David

Literally didn't change a thing.

Took the wires out of the supplied pigtail.

Took the factory pigtail off the existing alternator wires.

Plugged the new pigtail on to the wires and connected.

There is no sign of any changes made to harness (as there was none) and still has factory wrap on it.

Paul

XxSlowpokexX
04-11-2013, 08:13 PM
David

Literally didn't change a thing.

Took the wires out of the supplied pigtail.

Took the factory pigtail off the existing alternator wires.

Plugged the new pigtail on to the wires and connected.

There is no sign of any changes made to harness (as there was none) and still has factory wrap on it.

Paul

same here:D:D:D:D

David Neibert
04-12-2013, 09:00 AM
David

Literally didn't change a thing.

Took the wires out of the supplied pigtail.

Took the factory pigtail off the existing alternator wires.

Plugged the new pigtail on to the wires and connected.

There is no sign of any changes made to harness (as there was none) and still has factory wrap on it.

Paul

Great...I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

David

David Neibert
04-14-2013, 11:53 PM
Got all the stuff out to do the alternator swap this morning and wanted to get a before and after voltage comparison. Started it up and let it run a few minutes and settle into the normal 1000 rpm idle, then checked voltage at the battery.

It was showing 14.3 volts, so I put everything up and went back inside to watch the Masters Tournament.

David

neverfastenough
04-16-2013, 05:01 PM
SO my new spals are putting a whooping on my stock brand new autozone alternator. Wasnt gonna go 6g since the output is basically identical to a stock SC one. Been researching these guys and spoke through email with them. They can include it with a new 6g pigtail for 257 shipped. 200amp max and 125 amp idle. Just a thought for those looking to upgrade. 1 year warranty.

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=134

Youd need the straight ears and 8 rib naturally.

Advertised Idle Output @ 2,400 RPM

Advertised Maximum Output @ 4,800 – 5,200 RPM

Note: havent bought this, just looking at it as an option.

David Neibert
04-16-2013, 05:26 PM
SO my new spals are putting a whooping on my stock brand new autozone alternator. Wasnt gonna go 6g since the output is basically identical to a stock SC one. Been researching these guys and spoke through email with them. They can include it with a new 6g pigtail for 257 shipped. 200amp max and 125 amp idle. Just a thought for those looking to upgrade. 1 year warranty.

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=134

Youd need the straight ears and 8 rib naturally.

Advertised Idle Output @ 2,400 RPM

Advertised Maximum Output @ 4,800 5,200 RPM

Note: havent bought this, just looking at it as an option.

Nice to know an upgrade is available, because I haven't found anyone offering an upgraded direct replacement for the stock alternator. I guess you will also have to use a larger power cable and fuse with the 200 amp 6G.

David

David Neibert
04-21-2013, 02:13 PM
Installed the alternator this weekend. Other than cutting a lip off the case for proper pulley fitment it was a pretty easy install. Voltage was 14.35 at cold start 1000 rpm idle with 2.625" custom alt pulley and underdrive crank pulley. With engine warmed, headlights on and both cooling fans running is was around 13.7, so I think it is doing better than the stock alternator I had.

Here are a few pictures and a video link.

http://youtu.be/A__W6LGyBqM

David

David Neibert
04-25-2013, 02:15 PM
Drove the car to work today to monitor the voltage.

When the motor was cold it was showing 14.3 at idle and about the same voltage at higher rpms. After about 4 miles the voltage at cruising rpms (2500) was showing steady at 13.95 then after another 5 or 6 miles it was more like 13.85. After 11 miles at a stoplight with 1000 rpm idle voltage dropped to around 12.7, but as soon as any throttle was supplied it went to 13.8X. After about 12 miles I did a WOT test for a few seconds, and was pleased to see the voltage stayed steady at 13.7X.

The little 6g is doing about .75 volt better than my stock alternator was after coming up to temp, and about 1.5 volts better at WOT.

David

rzimmerl
04-25-2013, 02:19 PM
Good results, sound like a slightly smaller alt pulley could help a little more.

David Neibert
04-25-2013, 02:58 PM
Good results, sound like a slightly smaller alt pulley could help a little more.

Ryan,

Yes, it probably would work better if I went smaller on the pulley. I've got a stock size aluminum alt pulley, but I would need a shorter belt to use it. I'm also not sure if this Optima red top battery is helping or hurting.

I'm going to leave it like this for a few months, and see how it does before making anymore changes. My main concern was losing voltage at WOT on the track and going lean. I think it will be okay now and may even end up running a little richer because of the voltage increase.

Won't know for sure until I take it to the track and try to make a few passes without getting sent home.

David

rzimmerl
04-25-2013, 05:15 PM
I've got an Optima Red top in mine too. I had it tested this spring and still says its good, we'll see how long it lasts compared to my last one. Next battery I get will probably be a Braille.

Miller
04-27-2013, 02:54 PM
How high did you get into the RPMS ? whats your voltage around 5500 rpms at WOT

David Neibert
04-27-2013, 03:03 PM
How high did you get into the RPMS ? whats your voltage around 5500 rpms at WOT

I got up past 6500 rpm and it was holding steady at 13.7, but that was with tires spinning and only lasted a couple seconds. I expect it will drop off a little more when making a 1/4 mile pass on the track.

David

Jason Wild
04-28-2013, 03:20 PM
David did you upgrade the power wire to the battery or stay with stock wire. As well where did you find the plug?
I only ask as I have a PA performance G6 and I don't want to over power the stock wire.

neverfastenough
05-06-2013, 08:31 PM
So the center white wire on the pigtail is not used?

BTW Just picked up a 160amp taurus 6g. Looks the like housing is clocked compared to the one you just installed, David. Hopefully theres no issues.

shoalcracker
05-06-2013, 10:25 PM
I'm thinking your cutting and extending.

These were direct plug and play.

Paul

89XR7TD
05-08-2013, 08:27 AM
So the center white wire on the pigtail is not used?

BTW Just picked up a 160amp taurus 6g. Looks the like housing is clocked compared to the one you just installed, David. Hopefully theres no issues.

That is correct...middle wire isn't used! That housing is the same
as the one i just installed. Some people had to reclock due to
IC tubes being in the way.

Power wire not needed to change, stock is fine.

David Neibert
05-08-2013, 01:38 PM
That is correct...middle wire isn't used! That housing is the same
as the one i just installed. Some people had to reclock due to
IC tubes being in the way.

Power wire not needed to change, stock is fine.

Correct...the alternator you and Corey got is already clocked to more easily fit an SC. Mine had power terminal and other wire connections on the top, but the stock cable had plenty of length to reach.

I think mine is only 110 amps and didn't need an upgraded power cable. If you are pulling enough power to actually need a 160 amp alternator I would probably upgrade to a bigger diameter cable or add a second cable of equal size.

David

David Neibert
05-08-2013, 01:44 PM
So the center white wire on the pigtail is not used?

BTW Just picked up a 160amp taurus 6g. Looks the like housing is clocked compared to the one you just installed, David. Hopefully theres no issues.

Corey,

The green terminal has a small alignment tab, that when ground off will allow rotating the terminal upward or downward a little further. Main power wire on an SC alternator is on the bottom very close to where it is on this alternator, so hooking up the wires will be easy. Here are a couple pics of the wire connections. I also added some heat shrink to help insulate the main power wire after removing the old boot.

David

neverfastenough
05-08-2013, 01:59 PM
Thanks for the pics, I already have a 4ga charging wire so i should be in good shape there, hope to have it installed friday night. Going to keep my UD pulley on it because its all I own at the moment.

neverfastenough
05-10-2013, 08:33 PM
Well not thrilled but it was 30bux in my pocket after returning my auto zone one. 13.3v max idle regardless of rpm just like before. Headlights and fans before was 12.1v at very best. New 160A 6g was able to do 12.9-12.8v idle with fans and lights on. Turning the blower motor to high brought it to low 12's. I'll tell more after a good datalog, wot concerns me most.

neverfastenough
05-13-2013, 11:57 AM
Well I took the car to the local alternator shop. The guys thought it was pretty sweet and are going to tear it down and check it out for free, and inspect my regulator. They ordered one around 14.6 to put in, junk in case they think its the issue. Hoping to get this thing dialed in. I did notice my factory charging cable is doing NOTHING. Blew all the fuseable links last year when It grounded out. So my 4ga add on was the only thing charging the car. Replaced that with a 1/0 and it seems to be better.

XR7 Dave
05-13-2013, 12:41 PM
Well I took the car to the local alternator shop. The guys thought it was pretty sweet and are going to tear it down and check it out for free, and inspect my regulator. They ordered one around 14.6 to put in, junk in case they think its the issue. Hoping to get this thing dialed in. I did notice my factory charging cable is doing NOTHING. Blew all the fuseable links last year when It grounded out. So my 4ga add on was the only thing charging the car. Replaced that with a 1/0 and it seems to be better.

Well that explains a few things. Audio cable is not good for passing high current, regardless of what the AWG says.

neverfastenough
05-13-2013, 12:47 PM
I have a piece of 1/0 pure copper welding cable here that weighs twice as much as the piece I put on , that I want to use, but I'm waiting on ring terminals. Either way the regulator is set too low at 13.3 max in neutral regardless of rpm. You're definitely right about audio cable, it's all copper clad junk usually.

neverfastenough
05-14-2013, 05:54 PM
Well got to the alt shop just as they were pressing it back together. They tested before and verfied my 13.4 reading as the max they could produce. They load tested it and it came in at 124amps, well under 160, but you get what you pay for. They put in a new 14.6v set point regulator, and retested. Voltage came out to an identical 13.4. So they havent charged me anything yet, and now have a new rotor on the way. Hopefully we'll have it performing as it should by the end of the week.

neverfastenough
05-21-2013, 05:30 PM
Success:cool:

We replaced the stator, rotor, and rectifier:rolleyes:

14.3v

tested at 100amp idle

then sped up we got 190amps out of it. :D

If anyone is interested my local shop said he could build another from scratch for $220+shipping. He warranties them for a year and says they will come in around 175-200amps. The rear housing can be clocked anyway you like also.

He pretty quick, turn around time would be a weekish.

David Neibert
05-21-2013, 05:43 PM
Success:cool:

We replaced the stator, rotor, and rectifier:rolleyes:

14.3v

tested at 100amp idle

then sped up we got 190amps out of it. :D

If anyone is interested my local shop said he could build another from scratch for $220+shipping. He warranties them for a year and says they will come in around 175-200amps. The rear housing can be clocked anyway you like also.

He pretty quick, turn around time would be a weekish.

That' a lot better deal than that guy at Ohio generator who wanted $410 ea for a 200 amp 6G clocked to fit an SC.

David

neverfastenough
05-21-2013, 06:15 PM
That' a lot better deal than that guy at Ohio generator who wanted $410 ea for a 200 amp 6G clocked to fit an SC.

David

If anyone wants he can do a 200amp too for well under OG's price. Not really needed unless youre a big audio guy or something.

I drove the car 30miles with it on today, still well into the 13's at wot, little low at idle, but the tiniest bit of throttle brings it up. Stock pulley would be mean on this setup at idle, easy 100amps.

Also about 90degrees today, car never got over 166:cool:

David Neibert
06-07-2013, 01:08 PM
I went ahead and ordered a new 170 amp 6G from the same shop (A&L Electric) that built Corey's, just to have something to back up the 6G that's on the car now. They are also going to machine down the lip on the front of the case, so there won't be any rework needed to install an 8 rib pulley that lines up with existing accessories. Total cost $235 plus shipping.

Corey, thanks again for your help with getting this ordered.

David

89XR7TD
06-08-2013, 06:06 PM
If anyone wants he can do a 200amp too for well under OG's price. Not really needed unless youre a big audio guy or something.

I drove the car 30miles with it on today, still well into the 13's at wot, little low at idle, but the tiniest bit of throttle brings it up. Stock pulley would be mean on this setup at idle, easy 100amps.

Also about 90degrees today, car never got over 166:cool:

Glad that place got it going good now for ya!!!:)

neverfastenough
06-08-2013, 07:10 PM
I went ahead and ordered a new 170 amp 6G from the same shop (A&L Electric) that built Corey's, just to have something to back up the 6G that's on the car now. They are also going to machine down the lip on the front of the case, so there won't be any rework needed to install an 8 rib pulley that lines up with existing accessories. Total cost $235 plus shipping.

Corey, thanks again for your help with getting this ordered.

David

No problem David, Ill stop in and check in on it next week. Think zimmerly is picking up one as well.

rzimmerl
06-09-2013, 10:22 PM
Yes I'll be getting one as well.

neverfastenough
06-20-2013, 06:51 PM
Heres david neiberts before boxing it up. Charged at 14.6v and made 175amps on the test bench.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/neverfastenough230/IMAG0469_zpsfa89061a.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/neverfastenough230/media/IMAG0469_zpsfa89061a.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/neverfastenough230/IMAG0470_zpsdba4c320.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/neverfastenough230/media/IMAG0470_zpsdba4c320.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/neverfastenough230/IMAG0471_zps2f964b0d.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/neverfastenough230/media/IMAG0471_zps2f964b0d.jpg.html)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/neverfastenough230/IMAG0473_zps132d0a67.jpg (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/neverfastenough230/media/IMAG0473_zps132d0a67.jpg.html)


Notice that these arent tapped on the top hole, so you will need a bolt and nut. You can see that the front has been machined down to clear the sc pullies, stock and underdrives. 235bux + shipping and a one year warranty. Im shipping davids tomorrow.

These take a week or so and are HAND BUILT TO ORDER. Just saying so you arent alarmed by some greasy finger prints or marks from the test bench. I wipe them down with a rag and some acetone when he finishes them. But no alternator leaves the shop without being tested.

If anyone is interested shoot me a PM.

David Neibert
06-20-2013, 08:00 PM
Thanks Corey,

I really like how they machined the front of the case to remove that lip. Looks like it will be a very simple direct replacement for the lower output 6g that's on there now.

David

Wzenheimer
06-20-2013, 09:51 PM
Corey,

Can they supply the pigtail as well or is there a separate source for that? I'll eventually need once when I get closer to starting my engine up.

Chris

neverfastenough
06-21-2013, 01:44 AM
Chris, I've never asked him but I don't see why he wouldn't be able to get one from one of his suppliers. When I go to order the next alt here for another member in a day or so, I'll ask him how much to include one in the build. With all your fans I think you'll greatly benefit from one of his alternators.

Mike8675309
06-21-2013, 09:15 AM
This is a great resource for those folks pushing their cars. Having an alternator that can keep up with the ignition systems demands, the fuel system demands and the cooling system demands on the 350+ rwhp v6's on a high speed run is a big win. The stock alternator, even though it is rated high simply can not keep up.

Wzenheimer
06-21-2013, 05:42 PM
Chris, I've never asked him but I don't see why he wouldn't be able to get one from one of his suppliers. When I go to order the next alt here for another member in a day or so, I'll ask him how much to include one in the build. With all your fans I think you'll greatly benefit from one of his alternators.

Yes I have an additional 35 amps of draw just in fans so far and counting. Plus I haven't included larger in tank fuel pump, main fuel pump, trans controller, sound system, or any other items I have thought of yet. I doubt a stock alt could keep up with all of those things.

David Neibert
07-08-2013, 02:41 PM
Installed the new 6g I got from the shop that built Corey's alternator. Doing the swap was very easy because the lip on the front was machined off. Test drove it with my multimeter rigged to the cig lighter.

Short version..Voltage is pretty much the same as the ebay 6g I just removed.

Long version...Cold start shows 14.2 and at hot idle (1000 rpms) it drops to the mid 12s and comes up to high 13 with just a little throttle input. At cruising rpms (2800 rpm) it's slightly better because it stays right around 14.10 to 14.15 with lights off. Old 6g would drop to 13.8 at cruising rpm with lights off. With headlights on new alt shows 13.9 which is the same thing it shows at wot. All things considered I'm happy with how it is performing because it's way better than my stock SC alt and I think this one is built better than the ebay unit that I'm saving to use as a back up.

I could probably pick up a little more voltage by upgrading to a larger power cable, or bigger ground cables but I'm not planning to do that because it's already working good enough. My main reason for switching to a 6g was to maintain higher voltage at WOT, and that is no longer a problem.

David

Kurt K
08-10-2013, 04:15 PM
Success:cool:

We replaced the stator, rotor, and rectifier:rolleyes:

14.3v

tested at 100amp idle

then sped up we got 190amps out of it. :D

If anyone is interested my local shop said he could build another from scratch for $220+shipping. He warranties them for a year and says they will come in around 175-200amps. The rear housing can be clocked anyway you like also.

He pretty quick, turn around time would be a weekish.
Corey, tried sending you a PM, but it says you've exceeded you limit. Please contact me via email about an alternator.

neverfastenough
08-10-2013, 04:24 PM
Will do Kurt, my membership expired lol 200 messages of 70 allowed :rolleyes:

rzimmerl
08-11-2013, 08:45 AM
So were's the pictures of mine.....:rolleyes::D

terralex
11-01-2013, 05:49 PM
Sorry, was asking for pictures that finally loaded.

sleeper bird
11-01-2013, 07:29 PM
id like to know how these hold up.please post how they are working out for everyone.

Tony8470
11-03-2013, 03:10 AM
I ended up getting one. It works just fine. If you have under drive pullies it won't fix the dim lights.

David Neibert
11-03-2013, 11:18 AM
No problems with mine, and I would recommend this alternator to any SC owner.

David

shoalcracker
11-03-2013, 11:35 AM
I'm over a yr with underdrives.

No issues.

Paul

XxSlowpokexX
11-03-2013, 11:37 AM
I been running these for years. Had one failure but it was due to me screwing up the 12v post. Great alternator and they fit without alternator bracket modifications liek a 3G

90scbird
12-21-2014, 11:40 PM
just installed a 6g alternator from a 02 taurus last night it appear to not be charging tonight it seemed to work. trickle charged the battery, i have 14.11 volts grounding and postive on back of alt. and 14.09 volts on terminal. when i go to rev it up the battery light comes on and stays on, i have one of those smart chargers, and tested alt with it, also tested with dvom, i'm little stumped

neverfastenough
12-22-2014, 08:19 AM
Take it to a parts store and have it bench tested, its probably dead.

David Neibert
12-22-2014, 12:00 PM
just installed a 6g alternator from a 02 taurus last night it appear to not be charging tonight it seemed to work. trickle charged the battery, i have 14.11 volts grounding and postive on back of alt. and 14.09 volts on terminal. when i go to rev it up the battery light comes on and stays on, i have one of those smart chargers, and tested alt with it, also tested with dvom, i'm little stumped

Are you sure you have it wired correctly ?

David

90scbird
12-22-2014, 02:25 PM
pigtail from the taurus wired it up with orange stripe wire to yellow factory thunderbird wire passenger side of connector towards motor, then green red strip towards fender. when you start the car while idling it's only showing 12.35 volts then if let run for alittle bit the volts will drop some. but if you rev it up to say 3000 rpm the volts will go in the 14's let it idle back down and will stay in the 14's and charge the battery, but the battery light comes on and stays on until you shut the car off, when you go back to restart it light will be off and back to in the 12's

90scbird
12-22-2014, 02:29 PM
thats what the guy told me i bought it from, for $75, suppose to be reman life time warranty, he said take it back off and get it tested. the resaon why he didn't use it is because being mechanic shop since its a computer regulated, it was the wrong one for the car he was putting on, i told he all you have to do is delete the center wire. i might take it back off and have it tested.

89XR7TD
12-23-2014, 11:22 PM
I got mine for a 2003 3.0l sohv Taurus... from Napa,

Worked good for a yr and half, it died and they replaced it, I swapped back the Taurus pulley before giving it back to them...

I too have to rev my motor once or twice at first start up to stay around 13-14 volts but then it's good.

I would look into getting a new belt as well if it hasn't been changed in a while

90scbird
12-24-2014, 12:18 PM
yea i put all new belts on it.not long ago. i did notice i forgot to put that little yellow clip that holds the pins in, cause i was going to originally repin it but didn't have new pins. could be maybe a pin came in contact with other ones.

joenintiesc
12-24-2014, 02:06 PM
These are pretty nifty to easily keep an eye on your voltage output without lifting the hood (and battery voltage with engine off). Cheap enough too! I bought a bunch of them and they work well.

62619

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00962CQNC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

David Neibert
12-30-2014, 01:12 PM
Nice find....last year I went to at least 5 places looking for one of these cig lighter volt meters, and couldn't find one. Ordered a couple from your link.

Thanks, David

KMT
12-30-2014, 01:32 PM
Cheap enough too!

Handy, but not big on accuracy. If you use one, be sure to compare it to a real volt meter...and/or get used to adding .5v when you check it.

joenintiesc
12-30-2014, 11:43 PM
I think of it as more of a way to keep an easy eye on things if you believe there may be an issue with your batt/alt.

KMT
12-31-2014, 12:02 AM
Yep...much better than flying blind.

90scbird
01-02-2015, 07:44 PM
well just got back from vacation, and started working on the bird again, as its still bothering me. still doing the same thing, took battery and alternator out and had them tested, battery was bad, alternator was good from what he said. got a new battery and pigtail. still when you first start up it doesn't charge battery voltage drops, only until you do a quick rev, then it will charge and stay charging at 14.10 volts but the battery light comes on once you quick rev, but will stay charging around 14.08 volts at idle, my biggest concern is the battery light coming on. i turned the lights on got 14.05 volts when the fan comes on at operating temp it does a quick 13.25 volts then jumps back up to 14.05 volts. you shut the car off and restart it the battery light is out, and voltage still drops. give it a quick rev again and it charges.

joenintiesc
06-06-2017, 03:07 PM
I need to replace my alternator on my 94 SC. Many of the sources cited in this thread are defunct. :( So are the '01 Taurus 6G alternators still considered the "best" option for replacement with a small bit of tweaking? These are listed on RockAuto at 130A (as opposed to the other brands at 105A or 110A):

MOTORCRAFT GLV8913RM {#GLV8453RM, GLV8681RM, YF1Z10V346FARM} Economy; Reman Info
130 Amp $110.79 + core $75.00 $185.79

MOTORCRAFT GLV8681RM {#GLV8453RM, YF1Z10V346FARM, YF1Z10V346FBRM} Economy; Reman Info
130 Amp $124.89 + core $75.00 $199.89

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2001,taurus,3.0l+v6+ohv,1372755,electrical,al ternator+/+generator+pulley,2448

Or is there now a better option? Thanks for any updated info!

Creighton
06-06-2017, 06:30 PM
Interested as well. Thanks,
Creighton

J dot Miller
06-06-2017, 07:42 PM
No, you are talking about a 3G or some other alternator. The 6G doesn't require any grinding. It's smaller than a stock SC alternator. I just put one on last week.

I went with the 3G and Dave is right it requires several ours of grinding. Here is my step by step (http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/smf/index.php?topic=1260.0)...

james5275
06-06-2017, 11:43 PM
I went with the 3G and Dave is right it requires several ours of grinding. Here is my step by step (http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/smf/index.php?topic=1260.0)...

I recently also did the 3G mod after having a terrible time trying to go 6G. Decent amount of grinding but it's pretty quick with a quality air grinder. Dremmel would take forever. I have a fresh rebuilt and modified 160A 6G high output if anyone wants to give it a try, but the voltage fluctuated all over the place even after multiple regulators.

This is an old thread but almost worth resurrecting because there's a ton of good info.

JJ