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View Full Version : This Weekend Is It!!!!!



DrFishbone
05-20-2009, 12:44 PM
This weekend I'm FINALLY going to put my rebuilt motor, performance goodies, and low miles 5-spd in the ole' black SC. Although it's only been about 2 years since I drove the car, I've been waiting for this for over 4 years!!!! Hopefully my back doesn't start acting up again and further delay this momentous occasion!:D

I'll finally have a car that I'll be glad to take to the shootout, dragstrip, wherever! Maybe after this weekend I can stop saying "When I get my new engine and trans in my car...." :D

Anyways...I'm pumped :D:p:):cool:

kenewagner
05-20-2009, 12:48 PM
This weekend I'm FINALLY going to put my rebuilt motor, performance goodies, and low miles 5-spd in the ole' black SC. Although it's only been about 2 years since I drove the car, I've been waiting for this for over 4 years!!!! Hopefully my back doesn't start acting up again and further delay this momentous occasion!:D

I'll finally have a car that I'll be glad to take to the shootout, dragstrip, wherever! Maybe after this weekend I can stop saying "When I get my new engine and trans in my car...." :D

Anyways...I'm pumped :D:p:):cool:

Good luck. Keep us up to date on your progress;)

Ken

XxSlowpokexX
05-20-2009, 01:27 PM
Good luck dude!

DrFishbone
05-20-2009, 03:47 PM
I hope to get the engine and trans in at least most of the way by Monday...hopefully before too much longer, it'll be moving...then I can start pretty-ing it up too. :) AND...then I can go ahead and get my QH, etc! I've been putting off on buyin all the tuning/datalogging stuff until I have a fun engine to mess with.

I'll take some before pictures of everything to document the work, but I gotta warn you all - it's a pretty dirty boy right now. :o I'll have to scan my parts list that I've been adding to in the past 4 years too. Once I'm finished, I'll add up the total cost, then throw up. :D Nah, it shouldn't be too bad...been on the "buy-it-cheap" budget since day one, but haven't been willing to sacrafice quality parts.

Dangle
05-20-2009, 04:32 PM
I've been waiting for this for over 4 years!!!!
Anyways...I'm pumped :D:p:):cool:


Wow! I would get inpatient not putting that in after a month...4 YEARS? You must be pumped. I hope it's all you hoped for and more. What sort of perf. goodies are we talking about for this re-built motor?

Good luck dude.

DrFishbone
05-21-2009, 07:50 AM
Yeah...it's been a long wait. I finally knew the time was getting close when I started becoming uninterested in the "Parts For Sale" forum. :o

It's not going to be one of the Whipple or AR cars by any means - I hope to use it as a semi-daily driver. I've got a Magnuson S-port blower, raised top, MP inlet, 75mm Professional Products TB, 76mm MAFS, homemade aluminum 3" intake tube, double IC (to be upgraded to a custom FMIC at a later date), I did some port work on the intake manifold (porting around the inlet, and gasket-matched and smoothed all runners), home-ported heads with 3-angle valve job, .520 lift reground cam, 94-95 windage tray, 42lb injectors, adjustable FPR, 255lph hi-pressure fuel pump, b&m short-throw, spec II clutch, aluminum flywheel, 3.27 rear gears, aluminum stock-size pullies, 5% OD jackshaft pulley, 5% OD SC pulley, AC delete, ported exhaust manifolds, dual 2.5 exhaust w/ dynomax superturbos, and a NOS sticker. I think that's it...but probably not. :D The next phase will be the suspension / brakes, but I can do that piece-by piece if needed. Someday I may think about an MP3 or MPX...but hopefully I'll be happy with the change for a few years :p

Jeff Bratton
05-21-2009, 10:24 PM
Hey Matt,

Good luck with the install man...I'm actually going to be out of town this weekend or I would stop by to lend a hand, can still do so next weekend if you need a hand on finishing up whatever, would be happy too!

I'll give you a call later....


Jeff

DrFishbone
05-22-2009, 11:18 AM
Hey Matt,

Good luck with the install man...I'm actually going to be out of town this weekend or I would stop by to lend a hand, can still do so next weekend if you need a hand on finishing up whatever, would be happy too!

I'll give you a call later....


Jeff

Appreciate it Jeff! :)

I'm hoping to get the big work done this weekend, but we'll see! Finally...I won't have an excuse huh?! ;)

David Neibert
05-22-2009, 11:33 AM
Sounds like a good solid combo, that should be great on the street and run some good numbers at the track too. Take your time and do a good job of sealing everything up and zip tie or clamp all of the vacuum hose connections. Leak test your fuel system before installing the supercharger.

David

DrFishbone
05-26-2009, 11:33 AM
Sounds like a good solid combo, that should be great on the street and run some good numbers at the track too. Take your time and do a good job of sealing everything up and zip tie or clamp all of the vacuum hose connections. Leak test your fuel system before installing the supercharger.

David

Thanks for the tips...it's easy to get excited and forget the little things. I did take some "before" pictures, but they're on my phone, so I'll have to see if I can download them at home and post them. So far, I haven't had as much work time as I had hoped, but it's a mess in my dad's garage with the old engine and trans out of the car, and the new engine, trans, and parts all over the garage...so I can't stop now. Which was my plan all along... :D Maybe in the next few days I'll at least have the new motor and trans sitting in the car.

David, I read a thread awhile back about pulling the motor and trans together, rather than separate - is that how you'd done it before? I was thinking that you recommended doing it that way. Anyhow, that's was I ended up doing. I thought I might be able to leave the custom exhaust and driveshaft bolted up (except the obvious), but that didn't work out, I had to unbolt the driveshaft to get the motor/trans up high enough to pull it forward. It did work quite well, and saved alot of under-the-car work, which is less fun! :)

David Neibert
05-26-2009, 12:50 PM
Thanks for the tips...it's easy to get excited and forget the little things. I did take some "before" pictures, but they're on my phone, so I'll have to see if I can download them at home and post them. So far, I haven't had as much work time as I had hoped, but it's a mess in my dad's garage with the old engine and trans out of the car, and the new engine, trans, and parts all over the garage...so I can't stop now. Which was my plan all along... :D Maybe in the next few days I'll at least have the new motor and trans sitting in the car.

David, I read a thread awhile back about pulling the motor and trans together, rather than separate - is that how you'd done it before? I was thinking that you recommended doing it that way. Anyhow, that's was I ended up doing. I thought I might be able to leave the custom exhaust and driveshaft bolted up (except the obvious), but that didn't work out, I had to unbolt the driveshaft to get the motor/trans up high enough to pull it forward. It did work quite well, and saved alot of under-the-car work, which is less fun! :)

I've done it both ways, and I think it's a little easier to only remove the motor.

David

nickleman60
05-26-2009, 01:24 PM
Yeah...it's been a long wait. I finally knew the time was getting close when I started becoming uninterested in the "Parts For Sale" forum. :o

and a NOS sticker.

Just a sticker, no juice?...........................:confused:

DrFishbone
05-26-2009, 02:22 PM
Just a sticker, no juice?...........................:confused:

j/k :p No juice, maybe meth injection in the future..who knows.

XxSlowpokexX
05-26-2009, 02:36 PM
Now I knwo why those poly bushings lasted so long..ITS BEEN ON JACKSTANDS! hehehe

DrFishbone
05-27-2009, 07:25 AM
Now I knwo why those poly bushings lasted so long..ITS BEEN ON JACKSTANDS! hehehe

harharhar... Actually I guess that's part of why they've lasted 4 yrs. :p The car hasn't been PARKED for four years though...I've just been accumulated parts for four years. :) I guess it's been parked for around 2 years. It started right up and ran just fine when I moved it last Friday. Kinda makes me sad to take out the original motor and trans...no telling how long it could have lasted now. :(

Well Damon, I guess those diff bushings will get a good testing now...maybe then I'll say "Damon was right - these are junk!" :D

DrFishbone
06-18-2009, 08:47 AM
Awesome...

I was getting ready to drop the new motor and transmission into the engine last night when I noticed that I hadn't put a heat shield on the knock sensor...plus I planned on checking it to make sure it was an 89 or earlier part number (the new engine was in a 93) so I took the knock sensor, shield, and well out of the old block, cleaned them up, and went to take the new engine's sensor and well out.... the sensor came out just fine and it was a 93 part number after all, so I was probably doing the right thing regardless of whether the heat shield is necessary or not. I then started to take the 93's sensor well out, but it wouldn't budge. So, I cranked on it a bit harder since I figured it was pretty tough...and it snapped off inside the block!!!! :eek::mad::(

I had my dad help me try using an EZ out and then heating up the surrounding material for several hours to no avail. Man this sucks! After all I've had to go through to get this new motor in, it's one little thing holding me up! It always ends up like this! It's always the last bolt that stripped, breaks, or you just can't get to!!

So, as it stands, I have the broken well drilled through (so that the easy out could get in far enough to get a bite). I hate "easy" outs by the way... In my opinion they're useless unless 1) you're lucky or 2) the bolt / screw broke while tightening, not trying to remove. So anyway, I think it's going to be dremel tool to the rescue AGAIN. I'm going to kill that old well and add it to my "parts of shame" box. :D:eek:

PS - I've read that some people have had problems with buying replacement knock sensors. If it helps anyone in the future, the 89 and 93 knock sensors have different part numbers AND different threads. Consequently, the wells have different inner threads also - the 93's are larger, making the well itself, weaker. So, be careful with 93+ wells - they're not a strong as they look. Looking on the brightside - at least the motor is on the floor, out of the car for me... :rolleyes:

DrFishbone
06-22-2009, 12:45 PM
Alright, I've got the well out...I'll post some pictures of what's left of it. :cool:

I ended up drilling / cutting the entire thing out. After about 12 hours...I was able to put the new well and knock sensor in. The threads in the block were only the slightest bit boogered-up, but straightened out very nicely. WHAT A RELIEF! So, now the engine is in and the easy stuff may begin! The car *should* be running this week! :D

Toms-SC
06-22-2009, 01:24 PM
Remember the firing order! I've messed up twice because I listened to the manual which is wrong.

DrFishbone
06-22-2009, 02:38 PM
I don't know what I usually use, but it's always ended up being correct. Which manual is wrong again? (Factory Service Manual, Haynes, other?)

Toms-SC
06-22-2009, 02:58 PM
Haynes for sure.

Jeff Bratton
06-22-2009, 07:19 PM
Good Luck on getting started & running.... Still available if you need any help.

DrFishbone
06-23-2009, 07:36 AM
Appreciate it Jeff! You don't happen to have a Quarterhorse do you? I just bought an LC-1 gauge kit so I can watch the AFR while "breaking-in" the new engine. The everything has been going, if you did come to help me, we'd get about 1.5 hours of work done, then we'd have to stop to go buy something stoopid, like exhaust manifold nuts :p OR a NEW CLUTCH! :( BAH You ought to see what's left of the knock sensor adapter fitting! :D :eek:

The car is still a long ways from being done, but I should have it running and driving soon :) This is the big part for me, since this is my first total engine rebuild...little nervous. :o Actually there's been a lot of first's with this project. First clutch changed, first head porting, first engine building altogether! It's sometimes a pain, but overall alot of fun!

19TbirdSC91
06-23-2009, 09:41 AM
The firing order is..........

3 6

2 5

1 4


1 2 3

5 6 4

............correct? (I gotta make sure I have the right one even though I'm like 99% sure thats right)

We had the 4th and 5th backwards on my car and it was backfiring A LOT and running like poop. So I did the intake manifold gasket like everyone told me too, and that's what it ended up being, lol, waste of time!

David Neibert
06-23-2009, 11:39 AM
Correct...it's a little easier to understand using a diagram.


http://members.tccoa.com/dneibert/PlugandWireLayout.jpg


David

DrFishbone
06-23-2009, 01:19 PM
OOooo...fancy David!

Yeah, that's the way I remember it being. I wonder if they fixed the Haynes book or something...I always read everybody having problems with it, but it seems like I used mine with success in the past. I dunno, I'll have to check it :)

DrFishbone
06-26-2009, 09:38 AM
Just thought I'd add some pictures!

Things are going well...had to grind down at least one fin on the sc snout to clear the new 5% pulley, so I just did them all in case I put a 10% on there someday. Other than that, just been cleaning a few misc. old bolts, brackets, etc. off the old engine, since I'm somehow missing all my extras. :rolleyes: Also threw a picture of the place where the magic is happening in there just for grins. :D
How do you all like the conventional brake conversion? If I had known where I could get short pieces of brake line with fitting already on them (Napa), I wouldn't have all the extra tubing...but it doesn't look too bad and it's WELL out of the way.

Pacman
06-26-2009, 09:23 PM
I would highly recomend replacing the rubber sections of the coolent hose to the oiler cooler! its easy to do at the point you are at now and alot harder later! Take hose off and carefuly cut the pressed on special clamps off. there is a barb on the end of the metal hose you can slip rubber right over! take the two rubber pieces to autozone ask to go to the back where they keep hoses. get two bypass hoses that have the same ID and radius in the bend. Purchase them and cut the excess uneeded sections out 2 hose clamps and walah! new bypass hose without going to the dealer and if the rubber sections ever fail easy to replace! Ive had them blow on both my SC's and its a royal ~~~~ to replace them on the side of the road!

DrFishbone
06-28-2009, 03:18 PM
I did check those before putting them on the new engine. I have several spares and chose ones that all were still nice and firm at the ends. I ended up having to do that with one coolant line from a NA t-bird with climate control that I adapted to use on my engine for an extra coolant sensor (gauge) port. I've got an autometer one in place of the stock one, and the stock one is getting moved to the new port, just as a back-up. It looks like it's on the output line of the heater core, so I know that the temperature will be dropped a bit from the actual coolant temperature exiting the engine, but I thought I'd give it a try anyways. :)

DrFishbone
06-29-2009, 12:56 PM
Correct...it's a little easier to understand using a diagram.


http://members.tccoa.com/dneibert/PlugandWireLayout.jpg


David

Maybe I always install the coil pack upside down, but the printed stick on my coil pack that I installed is the opposite of this. I did notice that the sticker is upside down when viewed from the front of the car, but that's the way I always have done it and seen it!

As a side note....I learned the other day that I've been installing thermostats in backwards for about 5 years. :o They've still worked just fine though! now I can remember...spring towards the engine...:rolleyes:

DrFishbone
06-29-2009, 12:57 PM
Oh yeah...and my haynes manual matches David's diagram...so I dunno! :confused:

David Neibert
06-29-2009, 02:00 PM
Maybe I always install the coil pack upside down, but the printed stick on my coil pack that I installed is the opposite of this. I did notice that the sticker is upside down when viewed from the front of the car, but that's the way I always have done it and seen it!

As a side note....I learned the other day that I've been installing thermostats in backwards for about 5 years. :o They've still worked just fine though! now I can remember...spring towards the engine...:rolleyes:

The electrical connection for the coil pack is just above the #2 plug wire position. I'm 100% certian that this diagram is correct.

David

DrFishbone
06-29-2009, 02:58 PM
I guess the sticker is upside down then...would a car even run that way? :confused: I'll have to take a picture...

David Neibert
06-29-2009, 04:36 PM
I guess the sticker is upside down then...would a car even run that way? :confused: I'll have to take a picture...

I don't think it would matter if the top and bottom row of wires was switched since both sides of the coil are firing (waste spark ignition). Yes it should run.

David

DrFishbone
06-30-2009, 09:48 PM
I don't think it would matter if the top and bottom row of wires was switched since both sides of the coil are firing (waste spark ignition). Yes it should run.

David

whaaaa? are you saying that 1&4, 2&6, 3&5 coils fire at the same time? :confused:

David Neibert
06-30-2009, 09:53 PM
whaaaa? are you saying that 1&4, 2&6, 3&5 coils fire at the same time? :confused:

No..I'm saying that 1&5, 2&6 and 3&4 are fired as pairs, so I don't see why it would matter if plug wire 1&5 were swapped on the coil pack or any of the others, so long as the pairings stayed the same.

David

Duffy Floyd
06-30-2009, 09:55 PM
Yes....once on the exhaust stroke (wasted spark David mentioned) and once on the compression stroke (the one we "want)in PAIRS. So essentially the coil pairs fire at twice the rate they would fire if it were not for the ignition system we have. Since they are firing as pairs one spark is basically doing nothing from the pair...the other doing the "work".

DrFishbone
07-01-2009, 10:09 AM
Hmmm...that seems like a waste! :)

Okay, I believe it, but still, the way the sticker on my coil pack is oriented, the car shouldn't run, because I'm not mirroring the orientation, but rotating it. In other words, the electrical connector would be towards the front of the car instead of the "backside" of the coil pack to orient the factory sticker such that the layout matches the diagrams. I'll have to dig up the pictures I took of the motor before I started to see how is used to be... I probably decided the sticker was wrong and just used the diagram, like I probably should be doing now :rolleyes:

DrFishbone
07-06-2009, 02:17 PM
Things are going well - got everything done except: bleed brakes, prime engine with oil, put things back together around cam sensor area, and startup / break-in! Well, of course everytime I get a little closer....

....awesome...the thought had even crossed my mind a little while back...:rolleyes:

Due to the whole cutting-out-the-knock sensor well episode, the freeze plug next to it leaks! :eek: I'm sure it was because of trying to warm the block with the torch...probably warped the plug ever-so-slightly and now it has a minute gap. Fortunately, it looks like all I'll need to take off the car is the starter and O2 sensor and of course all the brand new coolant :rolleyes:

Someday, I tell you...someday.....

David Neibert
07-07-2009, 08:19 AM
Things are going well - got everything done except: bleed brakes, prime engine with oil, put things back together around cam sensor area, and startup / break-in! Well, of course everytime I get a little closer....

....awesome...the thought had even crossed my mind a little while back...:rolleyes:

Due to the whole cutting-out-the-knock sensor well episode, the freeze plug next to it leaks! :eek: I'm sure it was because of trying to warm the block with the torch...probably warped the plug ever-so-slightly and now it has a minute gap. Fortunately, it looks like all I'll need to take off the car is the starter and O2 sensor and of course all the brand new coolant :rolleyes:

Someday, I tell you...someday.....


Don't give up...sounds like your getting very close. If the freeze plug is just dripping a little, a bottle of Barrs stop leak may be the easiest solution.

David

19TbirdSC91
07-07-2009, 03:24 PM
Don't give up...sounds like your getting very close. If the freeze plug is just dripping a little, a bottle of Barrs stop leak may be the easiest solution.

David

Personally, I would NEVER put that in any vehicle I own, just my $.02

Sean

DrFishbone
07-07-2009, 04:10 PM
New freeze plug went in last night...looking back, I'd say I was more lucky than unlucky. :cool: Could've waited until I was driving it to start major leaking or could've been ANY other plug and I would've had to do some major (time-wise) disassembling.

Well...I say lucky NOW...while doing it last night, I thought I had enough coolant out of the engine that I wouldn't have a big mess. The driverside exhaust manifold covers the block drain plug and I didn't want to take that back off, so I just drained what I could through the radiator draincock and jacked the car up real high in the rear. Got almost 2/3rd's of the coolant out minus what had already leaked (a couple of cups maybe). So anyway, I was tapping on the freeze plug gently at first, then a little harder when all of a sudden *WHHOOOSH* ahhhh!!!! dumped antifreeze all over myself. :o After I got that all cleaned up, I was tapping the new plug in using a long 1/2" socket extension...well, I dropped that on my face. :o I picked it up, tapped a few more times, watching the plug closely, then hit myself in the hand! :o

Overall it went well...haven't tested for a leak yet. I used some permatex on the new plug for a little added insurance. No pain today from last night...but when I got washed up a little and got in bed, my wife said "You smell like antifreeze" ...yeah, I took a shower. :rolleyes:

David Neibert
07-07-2009, 05:15 PM
Personally, I would NEVER put that in any vehicle I own, just my $.02

Sean

Sean,

I'm talking about the stuff that comes in nearly every new car, not the aluminized powder.

David

DrFishbone
07-08-2009, 08:38 AM
Last night.... was embarassing.... :o

Filled the radiator up with coolant, checked for leaks. Looks like the new freeze plug fixed the leak. :cool: Next step, bleed the brakes. I started with the passenger rear and right away broke the bleed screw off in the caliper :rolleyes: So I skipped that one for now...I'll be revisiting the brakes for clean-up / upgrade soon enough. The rest bled just fine, and I it feels like the pushrod in the ABS-to-conventional conversion might be set just about right, but we'll have to see how well it works on the test drive out on the farm. So, brakes are bled.

Next thing on the list was to prime the engine with oil, so I got my makeshift priming kit (chaulk gun HARDENED hex rod and 8mm socket, extension and drill) and set things up and started to prime the engine. I felt a little resistance kick in as the drill was turning, but not as much as I had expected. I let it spin for around 30sec-1min and then it started spinning easier... I thought...waaaiittt a minute - something ain't right. I looked under the car and can you guess what I saw? ...about 4.75quarts of brand new motor oil! :o I had forgot to put the oil filter on! :o:o:o:o

One hour later, the mess is cleaned up, everything smells like oil, and I've got a drain pan full of 0mile oil that looks like mud. :rolleyes: Honestly, I'm usually a little more "on top of my game". :rolleyes:

Once I got back on track, I made my 2nd attempt at priming the engine. Guess what I decided to try? I did it by hand! I used one of those hand cranks for a socket and, just for grins, I hooked up the Autometer oil pressure gauge - I generated 50psi max! :D:D:D:D:D It was a little tiring though. Well, everything else went together fine (I had the items around the cam synchro hole moved/disconnected for the extra space) I cleaned up the tools and put them away the rest of the night, so the garage is somewhat clean now. SoooOOOoooo....I think tonight is the night! The key gets turned!!:D

Any things you guys think I might've forgot...apparently it can be even the most obvious step of the process....








And yes, I did put the filter on this time.

Pacman
07-08-2009, 04:35 PM
Make sure you plug all the injectors in too! they dont run well when only 5 are plugged in! been there done that.:)

DrFishbone
07-09-2009, 07:35 AM
Must've done something right... started up like I hadn't touched it!!!!!!!!!:D:D:D:D:cool::cool::cool::D:D:D:D

:D:D:D
WOOOOOOHOOOOOO!!!!!! :D:D:D

What a relief!!!

Don't have it licensed or insured yet, so I broke the engine in driving back a farm road about 1/2 miles long for around 30minutes. Not ideal, but from what I read, it should work just fine. The dang thing even idles well! A little bit too slow, but that can be fixed :p The brake pedal is too low after the conversion, but that can be fixed easy too!

Man, I'll ya...for about 10minutes before I even pushed it out of the garage, my heart was pounding with excitement...even started to get a little shaky! Totally awesome man...can't wait to get it on the road. :cool::D:eek: I'll get some more pictures up soon as I can.

Jeff Bratton
07-09-2009, 08:06 AM
Must've done something right... started up like I hadn't touched it!!!!!!!!!:D:D:D:D:cool::cool::cool::D:D:D:D

:D:D:D
WOOOOOOHOOOOOO!!!!!! :D:D:D

What a relief!!!

Don't have it licensed or insured yet, so I broke the engine in driving back a farm road about 1/2 miles long for around 30minutes. Not ideal, but from what I read, it should work just fine. The dang thing even idles well! A little bit too slow, but that can be fixed :p The brake pedal is too low after the conversion, but that can be fixed easy too!

Man, I'll ya...for about 10minutes before I even pushed it out of the garage, my heart was pounding with excitement...even started to get a little shaky! Totally awesome man...can't wait to get it on the road. :cool::D:eek: I'll get some more pictures up soon as I can.

Way to go Matt!!! Congrats!!
just don't act sooo excited next time,lol!

I want to come out and see this thing 1st hand now.... so call me and we'll get togther.

DrFishbone
07-09-2009, 10:47 AM
Way to go Matt!!! Congrats!!
just don't act sooo excited next time,lol!

I want to come out and see this thing 1st hand now.... so call me and we'll get togther.

Well, I'm sure it'll never be this exciting again...but the first time is always a big deal right?

I need to save some money for tires and the Quarterhorse and a few other misc things, but for the most part I think I have all the parts to make it drive like almost new. Really I even have most of the trim and exterior pieces I need too. :p I'll post my checklist, as it should be interesting to you guys...it's been ongoing for over 4 years now. :eek: I guess I can add up the cost of the engine and trans now....if I can bring myself to do it.

David Neibert
07-09-2009, 11:04 AM
Congrats on getting it running.

David

DrFishbone
07-09-2009, 12:57 PM
Take your time and do a good job of sealing everything up and zip tie or clamp all of the vacuum hose connections. Leak test your fuel system before installing the supercharger.

David

These words echoed in my mind just about everyday. I did forget to check for fuel leaks before the SC went on, but I checked long before it was all together. ;)

Planning on being at the shootout David?

rbrown
07-09-2009, 01:05 PM
Looks like the avatar is happy er.

DrFishbone
07-09-2009, 02:36 PM
Yes indeed..that reminds me, I was supposed to change my avatar for someone...David, I think. :p

David Neibert
07-10-2009, 12:26 PM
These words echoed in my mind just about everyday. I did forget to check for fuel leaks before the SC went on, but I checked long before it was all together. ;)

Planning on being at the shootout David?

Yes, I will be at the Shootout. I've been to everyone since it started back in 2003. If all goes to plan I'll be racing my 91 with the new 4.3 motor.

David

PS: I don't recall saying anything about your avatar...I like it.

DrFishbone
07-13-2009, 12:42 PM
Yes, I will be at the Shootout. I've been to everyone since it started back in 2003. If all goes to plan I'll be racing my 91 with the new 4.3 motor.

David

PS: I don't recall saying anything about your avatar...I like it.

Sweet, love to see it! :D

I found the avatar thread...

http://sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103764&page=2&highlight=avatar

I was going to change it for Steve Mazza, since you had finally changed yours to the TBU avatar (from Budlight or Millertime or whatever you had for years before) I guess I let Steve down. :p

Well, I didn't get to work on the car any this weekend, so no new updates. I'm a little concerned about hood fitment though. I put a new set of "solid" motor mounts on and also an old-style MP raised top (with the big fat flange). From the looks of it, it's going to at least be REALLLY close.

DrFishbone
07-16-2009, 09:13 AM
That knock sensor well / bung was been a pain in the butt. :rolleyes:

I went over to do a little work on the car yesterday and found a puddle of coolant under the car...again... After looking under the car, I found that coolant was seeping from around that knock sensor well, so I drained the coolant AGAIN...took off the starter AGAIN, etc. etc. I found that the teflon "paste" I had used looked to be disintegrated and washed away :eek: No wonder it was leaking! I cleaned it off real well and wrapped it thick with teflon tape this time, did a pressure test on the coolant system and it held about 17 pounds for several minutes - until I was satisfied that it wasn't leaking anywhere. Drove the car around adjusting the master cylinder push rod and parked the car back in the garage, so we'll see if the teflon tape does any better after the pressure test, warm-up and cool-down cycle.

Also, another pain in the butt....when I was bleeding the brake lines, the passenger rear caliper bleed screw broke off. :rolleyes: I also tried extracting that last night, but to no avail. I guess I'll just get a new set of rear calipers from the junk yard. Maybe some off a clean 96/97 T-Bird or something.

New topic - I can't seem to adjust the idle air bypass on my PP TB...it seemed like I remember reading about a machining error involving this port...anyone have any idea? I can totally remove the adjustment screw and the idle will not change. If I unplug the IAC, the car instantly dies. Do I need to take the thing off and do some drilling?? :rolleyes:

Pacman
07-16-2009, 09:54 PM
With a cam in my 93 i cant adjust the idle. it eaither idles 1300 or 700 nothing inbetween.

DrFishbone
07-17-2009, 08:29 AM
That's why I need to bump the idle up just a little - the new cam, but I don't see any reason why the TB can't raise the idle at all - unless the idle air passage is blocked. That and if my IAC goes out in the closed position, the car will die. :rolleyes: Like I said - I can take the screw all the way out and it won't change :eek: Seems to me like it would rev up to around 2500 rpm with the screw removed. I guess I need to just take the dang thing off and look at it closer.

DrFishbone
07-17-2009, 08:30 AM
With a cam in my 93 i cant adjust the idle. it eaither idles 1300 or 700 nothing inbetween.

What are the specs on your cam? I can't remember the durations, but mine is a .520 lift compcams regrind.

Pacman
07-17-2009, 09:23 PM
Comp stage II its the stage 2 cam scp sells. I have tried a million times to idle this thing up and its seriously not possible without a tune. I've tried everything! i bet you have a dead spot between idle and 1100 too! Honestly if i had to do it all over id have ran a stage one or a stock cam. The higher RPM power is not worth the loss of low RPM tourque. I thew a late model blower and a 5% pulley on my stock 89 and its faster than my 93 with cam CNC ported heads mid length headers ported late model blower 10% od, full exhaust 255lph fuel pump. ohh 89 does have a magnaflow resonator but rest of exhaust is stock. Before a late model blower on the 93 it was slower than the 89 stock.