for the experts whats missing in my combo

92sclikenew

Registered User
well the whole motor aint even touch yet but this is the parts i have to make the motor

what else would you guys add to my list.

this is what i have
c&l 73mm mafs sample tube for 42lbs
70mm tb
94 blower ported alot.. some of you might have seen the photos
match ported plenum for it
42lb injectors
coy miller stage 2 heads
1.8 Harland sharp roller rockers
front mount ic 15long-10tall-3.5thick not the biggest that is the core size:rolleyes:
10% pulley from my last blower
at the moment the exhaust is gutted cats gutted resonator no mufflers(plan to change that tho)
the car does have 3:73 rear in an auto
car does not have a/c stuff installed
lower end plans to be stock im picking up a good long block today. so now i ether rebuild mine with my regrind crank(which i have every thing but the bearings for that motor) or use this running long block and install the performance parts on it. still not sure what i wanna do yet. ether way what every aint used im probably gonna sell so i can get the other parts i need

what im still needing to get
cam getting a regrind done from xr7dave something within the .520lift not really sure this is what he offered
fuel pump 255lph is in the plan
and i still got to pick the ic piping up because im still kind of unsure how its all gonna run with out the motor in.
and some sort of headers but what is good but still a fair price?

anything else you guys would add to this..

and for sure a tune once all said parts are on :D

i hope to hit this thing is the 300-350hp range to the ground. :rolleyes:
 
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A few thousand dollars.

dave's right. i've got about $4000 in mine and i dont even think im at 300

-i would change the injectors to 50#
-the intercooler really isnt much bigger than the stock core so i dont know how well that will do
-buy an MP plenum. probably the best money you'll spend for your supercharger
-port your stock exhaust manifolds. they'll be good for at least 300 rwhp and maybe 350.
-have some real downpipes made instead of using gutted cats
 
dave's right. i've got about $4000 in mine and i dont even think im at 300

-i would change the injectors to 50#
-the intercooler really isnt much bigger than the stock core so i dont know how well that will do
-buy an MP plenum. probably the best money you'll spend for your supercharger
-port your stock exhaust manifolds. they'll be good for at least 300 rwhp and maybe 350.
-have some real downpipes made instead of using gutted cats

had plans for every thing but the bigger injectors

it cant be so much the dollor amount but what parts you have because i got alot of my parts at a steal cost!
 
it can be done at a budget with the right combo of parts. Search for a budget build by Dan Mcewen. He did it pretty cheap if you ask me.

Corey
 
Some things that might complement your setup:

Real exhaust like mandrel bent 2.5"
Raised top or top with divider plenum
EEC Tuner or SCT chip
Denso Irridium plugs
Torque converter

Like you said, you'll want the cam and the fuel pump.
Where are you in Michigan? I'm in Milford (near I96 and US23)
 
Some things that might complement your setup:

Real exhaust like mandrel bent 2.5"
Raised top or top with divider plenum
EEC Tuner or SCT chip
Denso Irridium plugs
Torque converter

Like you said, you'll want the cam and the fuel pump.
Where are you in Michigan? I'm in Milford (near I96 and US23)

Romulus metro air ports about 10min away
 
had plans for every thing but the bigger injectors

it cant be so much the dollor amount but what parts you have because i got alot of my parts at a steal cost!

42lb injectors will max out at about 300rwhp on an auto so you'll not get 350rwhp with them. You always want to have a little more fuel capacity rather than a little less.
 
Some things that might complement your setup:

Real exhaust like mandrel bent 2.5"
Raised top or top with divider plenum
EEC Tuner or SCT chip
Denso Irridium plugs
Torque converter

Like you said, you'll want the cam and the fuel pump.
Where are you in Michigan? I'm in Milford (near I96 and US23)

i totally agree about the exhaust. get a real setup.

i wouldnt waste money on anything to do with the sc top at this point.

put in non-platinum autolite 103 copper core plugs. gap about .045. dont wanna waste money on iridium plugs and then have your system possibly not run right at first.
 
i totally agree about the exhaust. get a real setup.

i wouldnt waste money on anything to do with the sc top at this point.

put in non-platinum autolite 103 copper core plugs. gap about .045. dont wanna waste money on iridium plugs and then have your system possibly not run right at first.

i do plan to get an exhaust done but this is at the point of getting it running i dont need exhaust to put the motor in..

thanks for the tips on the injectors guess ill be upgrading one more time.:rolleyes:

so as it sits im doing pretty good with my combo?
 
really lookin at whats needed to get the motor in... i know i might need other parts but i wanna get the motor assembled and installed then to get the tweeks to get the power i want out of it..

like the cam i dont wanna have to remove my brand new old stock balancer because i installed it without the cam being installed.
 
like the cam i dont wanna have to remove my brand new old stock balancer because i installed it without the cam being installed.

You will have to remove it when changing cams, there is no way around it because the timing cover has to come off.
 
The Coy Miller heads should support up to about .580" lift easily which is what I would normally do. If you want to run a regrind to save money then I suggest keeping it to .550" or less.
 
The Coy Miller heads should support up to about .580" lift easily which is what I would normally do. If you want to run a regrind to save money then I suggest keeping it to .550" or less.

i dont wanna go to big and make it not street able.. i guess i should put that in there. i do plan to drive it on the street mostly but take it to the track few times a year!

but still want it to run quick and be on a budget!
 
Lift doesn't determine drivability status. Extremely high lifts can have an affect on durability, but most certainly .600" lift is not going to affect drivability. The biggest limiting factor is clearance and valve spring capabilities. From my experience CMRE heads are only good for around .580' lift. The more lift (within reason) that you can stuff in there the better. My wife's daily driver carries .585" lift and idles like bone stock. ;)
 
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