cranks but wouldnt start

BuRHan90SC

BuRHan90SC

Registered User
ok guys this is jus happened to me.....i was changing the new air filter and i thought i would clean the maf with electrical cleaner too so i cleaned up the maf put the new filter and everything back to normal...now i went to start the car and it wouldnt start....i unplugged the maf it wouldnt start....it would crank but it wouldnt start....i noticed that my pcv hose which goes to the d side was unplugged i plugged it bak and it wouldnt start again....wat could be the problem? it was jus running perfectly before i changed the air filter and cleaned the maf...and everything is hooked up and i checked it like 10000 times again and again..feels like its not getting the fuel..and sometimes it jus wanna start but cant hold up....wats could be the remedy for this one?......thanks ":)
 
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ok a lil update......

i jus tried to start my sc after 6 hours of sitting (cold) and it started rite up but its idling crap like it jus wanna die...
 
Check the codes...might be the easiest path to follow at this point without making things worse :p
 
i m getting the code 95 and keep getting this again and again nothing else :confused:


does our cars have something like if u r low on engine oil fuel pump cuts off the fuel to motor to prevent seizing?

i have no idea wats up wit the car its only showing code 95 and everything seems perfect and hooked up only thing i see is its showing half oil at the dipstick from the mark....it started in the morning wen it was cold but now its hot outside it jus cranks but doesnt start...very confused ritenow
 
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i guess no one is intrested in helping me out lol...but heres wat i found

CODE 95

Fuel pump circuit open, ECA to motor

how do i check that? i mean fuel pump thank you.:D
 
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Find and check the fuel pump relay fuse (H ~ 30 amp) in the PCB by the battery.

Check the impact safety switch in the trunk, left side...push red button to reset. The relay is there...replace it to check.

Do you know how to jumper the self-test connector to try get the fuel pump to run?
 
checked the fuse its good (continuity tested)

impact saftey switch isnt triggered so i didnt need to reset it (?)...tested the relay harness it got BAT volts with key off and it got about 10volts with key on engine off....i also tested relay manualy and it clicks and power terminal have continuity while control terminals r hooked up to battery volts...and power terminal got no continuity while control terminals r not hooked up so i m assuming relay is working perfectly?

how do i jumper the fuel pump to make it run? with self test connecter where u get the codes? how do u wire it to make the fuel pump run? thank you for replying i m a noob to SC :D and this is my only ride so i really need it to be running lol :)

oh and up shift light doesn't come wen i m cranking...
 
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>impact saftey switch isnt triggered so i didnt need to reset it (?)

Push it in firmly to be sure.

>got about 10volts with key on engine off

You need just over 11 to fire and run the engine, at a minimum.

Do what you need to do to bring that up closer to 12.5 as an example, then try to start the car.
 
Have you tried a different MAF...seems like if it worked prior to you cleaning it and now it doesn't that would be the first thing I would look into.

-Tim
 
KMT said:
>impact saftey switch isnt triggered so i didnt need to reset it (?)

Push it in firmly to be sure.

>got about 10volts with key on engine off

You need just over 11 to fire and run the engine, at a minimum.

Do what you need to do to bring that up closer to 12.5 as an example, then try to start the car.
Click to expand...

I got it bak to almost 11 it was cuz of low bat but no start and impact switch is reseted. Can u tell me plz how to jumper the fuel pump to run so i know if fuel pump is bad or not thanks
 
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I'll second the battery.....

I've had a few SCs that wouldn't start until it had a good battery in them.....
 
all i know is... when i had some bad O2 sensors, when i unplugged my MAF my car worked better!
i have an 89 though... maybe 92-95 has different setup...
 
KMT said:
>I got it bak to almost 11

Not enough. You won't get anywhere until you fix this.

See this post to jumper the fuel pump: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=489959&postcount=8

Again, waste of time until you get a good battery in the car... You can't expect the relay to latch closed, etc. Do the battery first.
Click to expand...

ok my battery is brand new like 2 months old...it was low cuz of i jus cranking it again and again to test and battery went low...i charged it with the charger for an hour at 60A...now its bak to its full capacity again.....again i get the battery voltage (12.6V) at the fuel pump relay harness cuz its hot all the time i guess?...but wen i put the key in the ignition and turn the igniton on engine off and come to check the voltage at the harness its like 5.95V, turn off the key and i get battery voltage back again....ok then i brought my friends car in so i can feed 14.4V to my system so we hooked the cables from his BAT to my BAT while his car was running and checked the Volts at the FP relay harness with key on engine off and i was getting over 10 VOLTS ( obviously cuz of the other car running hooked up to mine) now i m not sure if thats wat u suppose to get there after u turn on the ignition cuz with key off u get straight BATT volts.


i jumper the fuel pump and i hear no fuel pump running even with key on engine off...i erased all the codes and disconnect the BATT for 20 mins connect it again and tried to start the car no crank checked the codes and i get the same DAMM!! code 95 again....it comes right away so there really is some problem with FP....either my fuel PUMP is bad or something related to wiring or EEC...

now is there any way i can check the fuel pump resistance or something like that to its specs to make it DAMM sure that its FP cuz i don wanna drop the whole thing and then know that its not teh FP...:confused:


Burhan
 
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LukewarmSteak said:
if you suspect it is bad unplug it and try without. it'll run without it
Click to expand...

i did that and it wouldnt start either... its cranking so starter is doing its job battery is good its jus that i m missing either spark, fuel or compression and since EEC is giving me code 95 fuel pump circuit open ECA TO MOTOR so i m more into believing that its fuel related....

Burhan
 
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is the negative cable to the starter good? after i finished my hg job i couldnt get the car to fire, just clicked and died...wiggled the wire on the starter and it fired right up.....changing it is a pain in the butt but thats what i ended up doing and it works fine now. just a thought
 
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