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View Full Version : "Attempting" to change my sparkplugs and oil tomorrow. Any advice?



275hptbirdsc
06-11-2009, 09:56 PM
Hey guys after calling many shops and getting ridiculous prices($120 to change my plugs) ive decided to man up and grow a pair and change my plugs and do my oil. Im having a friend help to so we can double team it and possibly get it done without driving the car in a ditch and torching it:D I found an article on how to change most of them from under the car is that a good idea cause I really would like to keep most of the things on my engine. Also where are some good points to jack the car up? Thanks guys and wish me luck!:)

fturner
06-11-2009, 10:06 PM
Most important, get jack stands to support the car for safety while your working on it. I typically jack the car up at the center of the K frame (make sure its not the oil pan your on). If you look at the floor of the car from underneath about 6 inches in from the edge, you'll see what looks like a square frame section sticking down. If you go towards the motor you'll see its re-enforced. Thats where I place the jack stands and lower the car onto them.

Changing oil is simple. Driver's side plugs have to be done from underneath, or go through the hassle of removing the IC tubes. Pax side, do it from underneath as well, but a couple of plugs can be done from above. If you move the ac pump out of the way you can to em easier.

Plugs are one of those things that once you've started into it and get it done, you figure out the best way next time and your alot quicker.

Don't force anything and if you get ticked, step away for awhile.

Fraser

talonhead
06-11-2009, 10:09 PM
Drive it up on a set of ramps or a curb and chock the wheels, and set the e-brake. As for a jacking point I use the flat of the sub-frame.
USE JACKSTANDS!!!! Never use a jack by itself (even hydraulic ones)
16mm socket I believe for drain plug.
Might want to swap it out for one with a magnet in it while it's out.
MikeH

Melon
06-11-2009, 10:18 PM
I changed all 6 spark plugs from the top. Remove the upper IC tube and intake tube and there ya go. It will seem like a real pain to do them, but take your time and just do one at a time so the firing order doesn't get mixed up. Don't forget to check the gap and put on a little bit of anti-sieze :)

-Melon

275hptbirdsc
06-11-2009, 10:59 PM
Dont worry guys im using jack stands:rolleyes: About how long of a job is it I plan on going to the strip after we get it done but we are starting it 5 hours before the strip opens so I left some time incase we get stuck( which we will):cool:

fturner
06-11-2009, 11:05 PM
I can do mine in about 45 minutes or so now, but I've changed them out a few times so I now know how to break my arm the right way and where to put the band aids before hand ;). I'm usually not in a rush either.

Fraser

whiplash15
06-11-2009, 11:18 PM
For a first timer, heres a couple of things you will be greatful for:
Set the car where you are going to do the work TONIGHT.
The oil will be drained down from the top of the engine and most of all everything you touch will be COOL.
Use dialectric grease on the sparkplug boots - Next time it'll be easier.
DO USE antisieze on the plug threads.
If you have the time and $$ buy a MAGNETIC plug socket. You wont be trying to fish it off of the plugs.
I have a 1" 3/8" extention with a shock absorder rubber forced onto it which lets me thread the plugs most of the way out and back in easily.
Allow enough time - If you are average, first time may take you most of the morning.. Dont get discouraged!

RedSC93
06-12-2009, 12:35 AM
I personally like taking it from the top, I have small hands to grab a hold them and get the job done quickly ;) The only problem that I have is to determine if I have the wires pushed all the way down, so make sure you lube it makes it easier.

Jerry

Mike Puckett
06-12-2009, 10:49 AM
One thing that I've always had trouble with is seating the plug wire boots onto the plug. If they don't 'click' into place, they will fall off. I just had this happen again when I did my friends SC. I would also move the A/C compressor out of the way. I use bungie cords hooked to the front spring looped over the fender to hold the compressor up. Also, remove the air inlet rubber tube and air filter box top and get it out of the way. I even disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail and get them out of the way. It's easier to remove things that are in the way than to try to work around them. If yours has the digital heater/AC control in the dash there will be a sensor for it just above #2 cylinder plug in the heater hose line. Careful around it or it'll rip a gash in your arm. Otherwise, you can get to the passenger side plugs better from the top. I also do the drivers side plugs from underneath. It's a 2+ hour job for the uninitiated. Once you've done it a few times it's not so bad. Oh yeh, use a rachet with a swivel head and a very short extension.

bowez
06-12-2009, 11:02 AM
I do mine form underneath and takes about 45mins to do.

Kurt K
06-12-2009, 11:39 AM
As long as you don't have headers, the driver's side is simple from the bottom. With small hands, the passenger side can be done from the top without removing anything except the air intake tube and maybe the MAF (going from memory since it's been years since I had the stock intake system). It might be easier doing the passenger side from under the car, but it's been too long since I didn't have headers blocking my access to the plugs to remember.

My tools of choice are a 1" long 3/8" drive extension, 3/8" drive swivel, 3/8" drive spark plug socket, and the icing on the cake, a 1/4" drive sized ratchet w/ a 3/8" drive head.

And, as already mentioned, use anti-seize on the sparkplug threads.

kendall221
06-12-2009, 01:47 PM
Make sure you use double platinum plugs. Since the original Motorcraft AWSF34PP plugs are very difficult to find, probably best to use the Autolite APP2544 and looks like there is a new # that is replacing APP2544, which is APP5144.

Again, make sure they're double platinum, and not just single platinum. The Motorcraft plugs that are supposed to be direct replacements for the AWSF34PP plugs are the SP504 and older number AGSF34FMF6 are only single platinum, and I was only able to get about 30,000 miles out of them, where I've gotten 75,000+ miles out of the double platinums.

If you're wanting to use any other brands than those above, first do a search and read the posts. Doing that might change your mind on which brand to use.

275hptbirdsc
06-12-2009, 02:13 PM
Make sure you use double platinum plugs. Since the original Motorcraft AWSF34PP plugs are very difficult to find, probably best to use the Autolite APP2544 and looks like there is a new # that is replacing APP2544, which is APP5144.

Again, make sure they're double platinum, and not just single platinum. The Motorcraft plugs that are supposed to be direct replacements for the AWSF34PP plugs are the SP504 and older number AGSF34FMF6 are only single platinum, and I was only able to get about 30,000 miles out of them, where I've gotten 75,000+ miles out of the double platinums.

If you're wanting to use any other brands than those above, first do a search and read the posts. Doing that might change your mind on which brand to use.

OK good I bought the plugs yesterday and I got the double platinum. Wish me luck im going out right now to attempt it. Ill update you guys when I get done:)

275hptbirdsc
06-12-2009, 11:20 PM
Alls im gonna say is it didnt go good:mad:

Thin
06-12-2009, 11:29 PM
What happened?

BuRHan90SC
06-13-2009, 02:03 AM
what happened?

+1 ..........

KMT
06-13-2009, 12:45 PM
>Alls im gonna say

...says it all. ;)

sinhumane
06-13-2009, 04:14 PM
break any? strip threads out? hope you didnt have to helicoil :eek:

shouldve been simple. takes me about 15-20 minutes to do all 6.