89 sc questions

artic94sc

Registered User
just bought my fourth sc its an 89 red 5speed. well i bough it from a guy that had the motor redone and the 5 speed everything! but when he hadit put in he couldnt get it running. so i took a half of day just looking everything over and found four sensors not plugged in the fuel switch not tripped bolts not tighten done alot. got it all put back to together and she firied right up! but she holdan idle for a few mins and then drops to 400-500 rpms, so maybe the dis? another thing is the brakes, brake pedal is hard. check the front calipers and they are fine and brake fluid id comming out of the cap? oh.... and there is a loud clucking noise comming from the snout of the sc, he said it was rebuilt? but the fluid is BLACK?

just found out another thing, it has the stock alarm on it so.......... where the hell do i find the code?
 
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A worn coupler will make the noise like marbles in a coffee can....

If fluid is black, you should go ahead and change it....

Hard brakes could be caused by a number of things.....

Take a close look at the accumulator ball and have someone turn the key on, but do not start the engine.....

Can you hear the pump motor run for about 20 - 30 seconds then shut off.....

If the pump motor doesn't run, check the brown ABS relay on the PS firewall near the hood strut....

Other things to consider are bad accumulator ball, bad pressure switch, or bad pump motor....
 
89

a worn coupler.... is that something i need to bring in? and the idle what do you think. have you evermessed with the alarms on these car and where to find the codes?

thanks for the info.......
 
89

thanks bro but where dose the coupler go.... and all i am hearing is a clicking nosie from the brake pump area?
 
Your TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) might not be adjusted correctly and the could be causing your idle problem. There are several posts around here that tell you how to adjust it.
 
The coupler goes inside the super charger snout.....

What do you mean by clicking noise....

Can you tell exactly where the noise is coming from?

Could it be coming from the pressure switch next to the pump motor....
 
Can you tell if the clicking is the pump motor or the pump.....

Does the clicking stop after 20 - 30 seconds....
 
When I turn the key on I hear just 1 click by the ball, I hear only a pump near the passenger side of the car. I do get a anti-lock light on as well. How do i check the ball to see if its good or bad?
 
There is no way of testing the accumulator ball....

Do you get a red brake light with your Anti Lock light....

I have quite a bit of experience with these units....

First thing that needs to be checked is the operation of the pump motor....

You can make a set of heavy duty jumper wires and test the pump motor at the connector....

If the motor is sluggish or doesn't run at all, it needs to be rebuilt....

If the motor runs fine, it could be the relay or the pressure switch.....

I have found out that some pressure switches can be "fixed" by removing them and applying pressure to the end (it's spring loaded)....

In the end, it will probably need a new accumulator ball anyway, especially if it is the original one.....:p

The pump motor, pump, pressure switch, and accumulator ball can all be removed as an assembly.....
 
89

what and how do you check the motor, like you said you should be able to hear the motor for 20 sec anf all i hear is a clicking nosie? so.... could you please tell me how to take that unit apart and what to do from there?
 
Try the jumper wires to see if the motor is working.....

There are 4 pins on the connector 2 grays and 2 gray with red stripe......

It doesn't matter which one is positive or negative (hook one jumper wire to a gray pin and the other to a gray with red stripe pin), you just want to verify if the motor is operational.....

To remove the unit, take the windshield cowling off and then the upper IC tube.....

This should give you enough room to get to the pump unit.....

You will have to remove the brake line that connects the unit to the master cylinder.....

PM sent....

There is an allen head bolt that holds the unit to the firewall.....

Care should be taken to get the correct wrench, so you don't round the inside of the bolt off......
 
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