AR+MP IC = Not a happy Camper

XxSlowpokexX

XxSlowpokexX

Registered User
I'm just not overly thrilled with my combination. I think I may have a few issues to work out but I am just not happy with the performance. Car runs too hot and nothing I do is helping ....Performance just seems ehhh..Now that I can get on it Im just not overly thrilled. At all.

Changing my Spark plug wires today and throwing in a new thermostat to see if anything changes temp or powerwise. Feels as though I may have a miss but that feeling is only at part throttle....Plus every so often the car does a stumble at tip in throttle from a dead stop.....Up top car seems to run real smooth but just not very powerful. Not getting any blowby at all,,No black smoke no white smoke,.No check engine lights....


If anyone hs any ideas Im all up for checking
 
DamonSlowpokeBaumann said:
I'm just not overly thrilled with my combination. I think I may have a few issues to work out but I am just not happy with the performance. Car runs too hot and nothing I do is helping ....Performance just seems ehhh..Now that I can get on it Im just not overly thrilled. At all.

Changing my Spark plug wires today and throwing in a new thermostat to see if anything changes temp or powerwise. Feels as though I may have a miss but that feeling is only at part throttle....Plus every so often the car does a stumble at tip in throttle from a dead stop.....Up top car seems to run real smooth but just not very powerful. Not getting any blowby at all,,No black smoke no white smoke,.No check engine lights....


If anyone hs any ideas Im all up for checking
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All you did was swap blower and intercooler? If so, the driveability issues don't make sense unless you're seeing that drivability issue when the engine temp is too high. If not.. what else did you change.
 
DamonSlowpokeBaumann said:
I'm just not overly thrilled with my combination. I think I may have a few issues to work out but I am just not happy with the performance. Car runs too hot and nothing I do is helping ....Performance just seems ehhh..Now that I can get on it Im just not overly thrilled. At all.

Changing my Spark plug wires today and throwing in a new thermostat to see if anything changes temp or powerwise. Feels as though I may have a miss but that feeling is only at part throttle....Plus every so often the car does a stumble at tip in throttle from a dead stop.....Up top car seems to run real smooth but just not very powerful. Not getting any blowby at all,,No black smoke no white smoke,.No check engine lights....


If anyone hs any ideas Im all up for checking
Click to expand...


I am getting stumbles now when under load, I will be changing the spark plugs when i swap out the headers....I got the Kmember down with Jay so its all easy access now. :D
 
so Is it actually running hotter on the gauge? I've heard of the cars running hotter after the FMIC... Also did you get it tuned for the new setup??? That could be alot of your problem?
 
Are you stop and go traffic Damon the AR seem to generate more head right out of the bat, Due to its compression characteristics. So its not until the IC sheds that initial higher then an eaton temps at part and during idle that the SC will shine. Also you like to run the AC everywhere you go and thats a no no with the mp when the temps get hot and humid thats why I wanted to try the condenser thing. There is no other way other unless make a tru front mount.

Did Dave Activate the pusher fan for you like I suggested?
 
Pusher fan isnt activated...My stumble isnt under load however. Changed wires..No difference...

Its hot even on the highway..I didnt change out thermostat yet....That can be an issue..Im usuing same one before I blew gaskets. Wasnt stuck but maybe its not opening properly

Still...Somethings up....All that was changed was injectors AR and front mount..Along with assosciated tuning.
 
DamonSlowpokeBaumann said:
Pusher fan isnt activated...My stumble isnt under load however. Changed wires..No difference...

Its hot even on the highway..I didnt change out thermostat yet....That can be an issue..Im usuing same one before I blew gaskets. Wasnt stuck but maybe its not opening properly

Still...Somethings up....All that was changed was injectors AR and front mount..Along with assosciated tuning.
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What temps are you seeing and what has been ambient?
 
Damon, your EEC still isn't generating a lot of timing which is an issue for overall HP. 10-14 deg total isn't a lot. I didn't put a lot of timing into it because you had new gaskets, were far from home, etc. I need to get that file to you so you can work with things a little. Knowing what your ACT's are under the conditions you are now experiencing would go a long way towards answering some of your questions.

Ricardo, the EEC controls the pusher fan in conjunction with the high speed setting on the main fain. It is not controlled separately, and it is active on his car, just like it is from the factory only set to come on at lower temps.
 
I need to solve that temp issue. Once I take care of that I'll worry about performance. You had mentioned it fealt as though I had a slight miss. I think I do/did but I cant understand why it would be at low RPM's nd not up top...Changed the wires and it seemed better...But that could be in my head

Maybe thermostat tomorrow..Then work on getting my datalogging stuff hooked up....Ive just had no time, starting to travel for work again
 
Do a cylinder balance test to make sure you don't have a weak cylinder.

I tuned a Mustang the other day that ran similar to yours. Ended up being a burnt plug wire. Seemed to smooth out under load but just didn't make a lot of power until we changed wires.
 
If your running FMIC, AC condenser and stock SC rad there's your cooling issue, you can't have 3 heat exchanger's unless they are huge. Check the fins on the coolers, dirt had filled in on my rad and caused a similar issue.

Me and Dave don't agree on a lot of tuning topics but he should agree a stumble on tip-in is a fueling issue. Me and Dave discussed this privately on my SHO-ported M90, I pointed to Accel fuel tables (same as your accelerator pump on your carb) and he pointed to slopes, since then I have dialed the slopes and it is better off the line but still has a lean tip-in but almost no stumble, stumbles more when cold. Post your log and tune.
 
One summer my car was running abnormally hot and I found that it was running rich. What's your AFR under normal driving conditions?
 
grey500se said:
If your running FMIC, AC condenser and stock SC rad there's your cooling issue, you can't have 3 heat exchanger's unless they are huge. Check the fins on the coolers, dirt had filled in on my rad and caused a similar issue.
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Damon,

I know we are both running MPFMIC and the same aluminum radiator from Mike38SC.

I don't drive mine much when temperatures get above 85. But I've driven in 85 degree weather with the air on and the temperature on the gauge never got above 210, it almost always runs 190. Sometimes it will spike to 200 or 210 but the fans will kick in and it will get back down to 190. I will admit I don't spend very much time in stop and go traffic.
 
I also smell antifreeze but when I do a pressure test of the system all is well and no leaks....I do eventually loose Antifreeze..I just cant figure it out..No burnt wires but seems better with new ones...I dunnoooooooooo

Every so often I get a bad stumble almost corresponds with when I turn....I dunnoooo
 
DamonSlowpokeBaumann said:
I also smell antifreeze but when I do a pressure test of the system all is well and no leaks....I do eventually loose Antifreeze..I just cant figure it out..No burnt wires but seems better with new ones...I dunnoooooooooo

Every so often I get a bad stumble almost corresponds with when I turn....I dunnoooo
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Loosing Antifreeze :eek: You know that could mean a bad HG job.
 
could be..NEVER KNOW...But I did a pressure check..nothing...No smoke../Nothing in oil....UNLESSSSS..I mena whatif my heads XXXXXXX?...Oh I DUUNNOOOO
 
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Did you use NYC tap water when you filled your radiator? NYC tap water has trace amounts of gignium which is harmless to drink but reacts with the propylene glycol in the antifreeze when subjected to heat and adjitation. That creates a Nigignium hexane molecule and two glycerines. The glycerine can clog up small passages in radiators, blocks and cylinder heads like cholestrol in arteries. It will insulate your block and heads from the coolant and prevent the heat from transferring which will make you run hot.

I would recommend dissassembling your whole engine and scrubbing all your water passages, replacing your radiator and heater core and then fill it back up with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and anti-freeze. Or if you would like, I could sent you some Detroit city water which has Benzinic Selenium in it. The BS in the Detroit city water will disolve the glycerine and probably solve your problem. Let me know if you want to try it. I'll send you 2 gallons of BS water for $50.
 
bad head gasket, heads that are not "flat" enough, bad gaskets, or head bolts not generating enough clamping force?
 
>The BS in the Detroit city water will disolve the glycerine and probably solve your problem

Are the BS molecules larger or smaller? It is critical to help slow leaks that the molecules be larger.
 
Been losing coolant for 4 years and still have the same HG's AND make 300 RWHP. Replaced heater core, all coolant hoses, radiator, done pressure checks etc etc etc. Sometimes I smell coolant...others I don't. Do have indications recently of a leak in the front cover or thermostat though. Had a discussion with Lou Williams at Carlisle about the difficulty Ford had in using the "new" yellow extended life coolant and how the introduction was delayed several years til they could figure out how to make the engines last (not develop leaks) during engine durability testing.
 
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