Upper Ball Joint Removal from Spindle

Black93sc

Registered User
My upper ball joints are pretty well frozen in the spindles.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Any ideas on how to free the ball joints from the spindle?

Thanks,
Ted
 
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On a serious note, use a pickle fork, you can rent them from autozone.

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My upper ball joints are pretty well frozen in the spindles.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Any ideas on how to free the ball joints from the spindle?

Thanks,
Ted

Make sure the bolt is out there is a ridge that will prevent it from sliding out. If you pry with the bolt in you wont get anywhere.
 
If you use a pickle fork, most likely you'll need a new ball joint... use two big hammers hitting around the spindle where the ball joint goes into, ans it'll pop right out
 
If you use a pickle fork, most likely you'll need a new ball joint... use two big hammers hitting around the spindle where the ball joint goes into, ans it'll pop right out

Well Depending on how things turn out, using a pickle fork would require a new boot for the joint.. odds of getting just the boot is most likely slim to none unless you can get a universal size that'll fit??

But yah the two hammers and continued hammering works great.. usually after awhile if it doesn't let go for me, hammering on the balljoint (that goes to the spindle) usually comes out with in a few hits and still doesn't damage the ball joint :) But results may vary
 
If you lube up the picklefork sometimes you can get away without ripping the boot.

I took some trannyfluid I had recently drained and soaked the fork and was able to smack the sucker off without ripping the boot.
 
Upper right?

Most of you guys are talking about the lower, if the upper is stuck i would hose it with wd40 or pbblaster let soak and then hit the bottom a little bit. Thats if it is the upper and not the lower, it should just be a pinch bolt on there and shouldnt be stuck on that tight
 
On the upper there is like was mentioned a groove or ridge around stud of the ball joint. You have to completely remove the pinch bolt at the upper spindle to ball joint connection to have a hope of getting the ball joint out of the spindle. If these are OEM bolts there is a knurled section under the head that has likely dug into the spindle pretty good by now. Dave Dalke and I had to beat the bolt out with a sledge hammer. Destroyed the bolt so be prepared. Once the bolt is out it is doubtful you will need a pickle fork....but you might so again be prepared.
 
Most of you guys are talking about the lower, if the upper is stuck i would hose it with wd40 or pb blaster let soak and then hit the bottom a little bit. That's if it is the upper and not the lower, it should just be a pinch bolt on there and shouldn't be stuck on that tight

Yah you are right about that.. brain fart on my half.. Been awhile.. like 2 years now since i've done it myself..
I remember now using a Chisel like device to spread the Spindle part apart..
 
You have to completely remove the pinch bolt at the upper spindle to ball joint connection to have a hope of getting the ball joint out of the spindle. If these are OEM bolts there is a knurled section under the head that has likely dug into the spindle pretty good by now. Dave Dalke and I had to beat the bolt out with a sledge hammer. Destroyed the bolt so be prepared. Once the bolt is out it is doubtful you will need a pickle fork....but you might so again be prepared.

Thanks. And yes - they are the factory arms and bolts. It sounds to me like the knurls on the bolt are holding the compression around the ball joint stud in the spindle. Does the knurling run the entire length of the bolt in between the threads and the head? I tried rapping on the bolt with a three pound hammer once I got the nut off. It wouldn't budge.
 
A hammer put the nut back on loose and hit it sideways. Or maybe a punch on the bolt center. YOu have to get the bolt out or it will never come out.
 
The knurling on OEM bolts extends maybe 1/2" down the shank of the bolt towards the threads. If you plan on using OEM bolts as a replacement have fun finding them. In another thread in the member's area I explained the purpose for the knurling. I do not use aftermarket bolts without the knurling myself though they are getting harder and harder to find. (I have 3 complete sets stockpled.)

As I mentioned...we beat them out with a sledge. I think part of the issue is the knurling but also that rust forms on the exposed thread running through where the spindle is split hanging them up. I am sure some PB Blaster or other good rusted bolt removing aid would help get them out.
 
I'm not sure the descriptions here are clear so I'll just try to rephrase it all.

The pinch bolt that runs through the top spindle mount does not only pull the metal around the ball joint stud. The ball joint stud has a machined 1/4 round slot in it that lines up with the pinch pin. Thus the pin doesn't only pinch, it also retains the ball joint stud in the upper spindle mount.

To remove the upper ball joint stud, the pinch pin must be removed. Otherwise you will have no chance of separating the ball joint. The knurling on the pinch pin leads to heavier corrosion in that bolt. you may find it takes heat and a sledge hammer to drive the pin out of the upper knuckle. however you achieve it, you must drive the pin completely out of the upper spindle. Once it's out, the upper ball joint should come out much easier.
 
uhm. I thought it said upper ball joint. Use a railroad spike or similar dull shisel to sprd the spindle a little then knock the bolt out.
Alan
 
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